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Quest for the Perfect Top

Nicole

Veteran

I was lamenting to my mother that I have not been able to find one single summer top this year. Those of you who remember some of my other posts, my mother was a dress designer and went to a top notch design school 60 years ago. So my mother offered to make me a top to my specifications. At first I balked at the idea because I have no idea what I'm looking for in a top. I just know what I'm NOT looking for. (WHich may be why I have yet to find any tops that I love.)

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. So far, all I have in mind is a collarless V neck, sleeves that fall above the elbow, but not short or flouncy, probably hip length. I think the most important factor will be fabric, and I have no idea what will work best. I feel better in clothes with a little stretch, otherwise, they pull at the bust and hang off me and make me look 6 months pregnant.

If you don't have any suggestions, then maybe you could describe what you would design if you could design your own article of clothing.

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18 replies

Latest reply was from Angie

Ana

(website)

Veteran

Wow! That's so nice of your mom. I'm struggling with summer tops as well. I'm not sure what to suggest for you since you and I have pretty different body types and chest sizes (from what I've read of your posts). I might suggest looking through clothing patterns at some place like JoAnn's or maybe your mom has a bunch stashed away (not sure if they are current, though). I like looking through patterns and I find they are similar to what is currently being sold, but not exactly the same. You might be able to say, "I like the cut of this top, but not the neckline," or "I like the sleeves on this one," etc. and in this way you could help your mom piece together something that would work for you.

As far as fabric, probably something cotton or linen or a blend of those, for breathability in the summer. I would recommend that you visit a store specifically dedicated to clothing fabric, and not someplace like JoAnn for this. Every once in a while you can find something good, but overall I haven't been impressed with their selection and quality of non "craft level" fabrics. I'm a pretty serious quilter and I don't even like the quality of most of their "quilting" fabrics, either. They seem to bleed a lot and are not that nice to work with. I'm sure your mom already knows where all the great clothing fabric stores are, anyway.

Good luck! You'll definitely have to post pictures of the finished pieces!

Antje

Veteran

I like Ana's advice of pointing your mom to existing shapes and saying specifically what you like about them, and then designing something together. Do you have tops in your closet that you bought in past summer that you really like? If so, I suggest looking at them closely to determine what it is that makes them fit better than others.
Just like Ana, I don't have personal input on what to design. From what I've been reading, our chest issues are very different - I like details in tops that accentuate the little I have, while you look for a minimizing effect. Can't help with that one...

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Nicole, I think that the style you have so far is ideal. Deep V-neck or scoop (cut close to the shoulder), three quarter length sleeve and a little longer than hip length (for pants) and on the hipbone for skirts. I’d assume you’d want a knit and not a woven. A thick knit that’s not overly clingy. This is key. Does your mother have an overlocker? That’s the machine you’ll need to make a knit. A piece of knitwear is another option.

Think about how you want the neckline finished. Piping, rib, inserts, cut and sew? Think about the finish on the hem of the sleeves. Side vents on the sleeves are a good idea. Think about the width of the hem and vents on the hem.

Remember that you can have knits and knitwear altered if they don’t fit off the rack. We do this all the time and I work with people with your bust size.

Nicole

Veteran

Thanks for the tips and suggestions guys. I hadn't really thought about where to get the fabric--I assume my mother has her places. I'll have to look into that.

Angie, you suggested 3/4 sleeve....I'm a little worried about being too hot in the summer. It can get pretty muggy here. I know I can't wear short sleeves, but I was hoping for something just above the elbow--or would that look weird?

I think my mother has access to an overlocker. My aunt has one and I know she has borrowed it in the past.

I'm finding it frustrating that certain tops look good with pants and others look good with my skirts. I hadn't considered it was a length issue. I definately wear more skirts in the summer so that will be a major factor--thanks for that tip!

I went shopping again yesterday and had the same problems with tops. They all make me look like an old fat lady. No matter how cute they are on the hanger, they look matronly on me. I am starting to think it is a bra issue--at least partially. I am hesitant to buy new bras since I've been losing weight and would like to lose about 10 more. I'm going to see if my mother can alter my bras to hold me over until I buy new ones.

Thanks again everyone!

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Nicole, a length of just above the elbow will work beautifully. Go for it.

It's unfortunately a fact that some tops look good with skirts and others with pants. Seldom does a knitted top look good with both. Tops for skirts need to be shorter, unless you tuck them in. I do a lot of waist cinch belting which takes care of this problem, but I know that this is not what you can do.

Adjusting your bras is a great idea. Is it a question of the tops not cinching through the waist?

Ana

(website)

Veteran

I like elbow length sleeves, personally, because they cover up my upper arms (don't like those too much), but still show my forearms, which I think are nice. I think the key to elbow length sleeves, though, is that the sleeve needs to be more fitted. If it's loose like a t-shirt sleeve, it will just add a lot of bulk to your upper arms, and look like your sleeves were just too short or too long (I feel this way about 3/4 sleeves as well). This depends on the fabric you choose as well.

Nicole

Veteran

Hmmm the problems I'm having are many:

The biggest problem is finding shirts that 1.) flatter my bustline, 2.) are fitted enough to show my waist, and 3.) have sufficient sleeves.

Most of the tops I see have so much gathering at the neckline, that they hang off my bust and don't cling to my shape at all--which makes me look really heavy. I don't consider an 8/10 heavy, I think I'm pretty well toned (for the most part). I exercise regularly, I eat well and I take pretty good care of my body. If they don't have that "baby doll" gathering, then they have empire seams that fall at the fullest part of my bust, or they have pleats and gathers at the shoulder seams, and puffy sleeves, or a Mock wrap that cuts across my bust making me look lopsided. I know I must sound like a lunatic who has body image issues. I tried on about 30 tops yesterday--my friend came with me and saw me in every single top and she couldn't beleive how ridiculous they made me look. I know it's not in my head.

I noticed that my bra straps seem to be hanging a little lower than I like. A low bustline will definately make big breasts appear bigger. I also measured myself this morning, and my band size is down almost 2". I'm going to bring my bras to my mom's and see if she can shorten the straps and take in the band. These are expensive bras and not more than a few months old.

Thanks for letting me rant!

Tanya

Veteran

Nicole, have you tried true wrap tops made of good quality knits, such as silk jersey? They tend to flatter gals with big chest and small waist, and actually show off those features. Some of them are a bit low cut, but a cami solves that.
Example ( just an illustration, i know this is quite pricey):
http://dvf.com/dvf/browse/prod.....oryId=TOPS

Last year's collection had ones with elbow lebgth sleeves:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIANE-VON-.....18Q2el1247

If the cut works for you, I'm sure your mom could make you a collarless one!

Nicole

Veteran

Hey Tanya, thanks for the idea! I do really like both of those tops. The last time I tried a true wrap, it was a disaster, but it was a stiff linen blend and it had a silly collar and belt thing going on. I would definately consider trying on that kind of top in that kind of fabric. I'll save those links and show my mom! I didn't even mind the collar in the first one, but I prefer the sleeve in the second.

Thanks so much!!

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

So Nicole, my guess is that once you’ve found a kitted top (not a woven shirt), that fits the widest part of your bust line, the shoulder line is sloppy and the waistline is baggy. These styles might work too.

http://www.anntaylor.com/catal.....ory=Misses

http://www.anntaylor.com/catal.....ory=Misses
Have you looked at bluefly?

Nicole

Veteran

Thanks Angie. I appreciate the suggestions, since those are not tops I would typically consider...although I do like them.

I don't have much experience with bluefly...I'll check it out. Thanks!

Ana

(website)

Veteran

Nicole, I just ordered a fabulous top from bluefly and am really happy with it. It was the first time I had ordered from the site. The shirt is good quality, and it fit perfectly. Of course it depends on the garment, but I'd say that they generally run true to size on the site.

Nicole

Veteran

Thanks Ana....Do you remember about a week ago, you posted a link to something you were considering trying on, it was a new store that had just opened near you? (Sorry I can't remember the item you were interested in.) I asked you if you knew how their sizing ran, and you said you'd let me know once you made it to the store to try it on. Do you remember the name of that store? There was a cotton cardi that I liked, and forgot to save the link.

Thank...

Tanya

Veteran

I am not Ana, but I believe it was Martin and Osa:
http://www.martinandosa.com/web/index.jsp.

Ana

(website)

Veteran

Tanya is right, it's Martin and Osa. And their sizing runs pretty true to size, I'd say, similar to a place like J. Crew or BR.

Nicole

Veteran

Great! Thanks so much ladieeeeees!

I've been checking out bluefly on and off all afternoon. I don't have the stamina to sit at my laptop looking at page after page of tops, so I'll go thru a few pages, do something else and then go back. Anyway...I saw a few possibilities, but they didn't have them in my size. Is it common for bluefly to have limited sizing? It seems like everything I like was only available in small and petite small. There were a few other tops that I liked by a designer named Vivienne Tam...but a little more than I think a summer top should cost. I also am very drawn to the fabrics of Sweet Pea, but the tops themselves are full of those dreaded gathers and seams.

Ana

(website)

Veteran

Bluefly is mostly "leftover" designer stuff, so that's why it's probably more expensive than you're used to. There are some good deals on there, though. It is common for Bluefly to have limited sizing on some items because I think they take what they can get and that might not include a full size run of an item, and also popular items tend to sell out quickly.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I have had good experiences with blue fly. Not one return. Their size curves are indeed lean.

I'd posted those tops as silhouette ideas, Nicole. Patterns and colours are subjective. Try those silhouettes on for fit next time you are in stores so that you have a sense of which silhouettes your Mum can start working on.