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Premium Denim: Do I have outdated views? School me, please!

Anonymous

When I first took notice of premium denim (maybe 10 years ago or more?) and started buying it, the holy grail was 98% cotton, 2% spandex. Today, finding this combination is like looking for the proverbial needle in a haystack. It's out there, but premium denim isn't exclusively 98/2 anymore. I was just looking at Paige jeans and they were only 33% cotton, the rest was 51% rayon and two other synthetic fabrics. My $200 Dre's are 98/2 and I tried on a pair of $30 Gap Factory jeans that were 98/2 ... it's just all over the board!

Are my views outdated on what makes denim "good?" Should I have a more open mind about other fabric combinations?

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18 replies

Latest reply was from UmmLila (Lisa)

Diana

Veteran

Not all 98/2 is made equally. My Holy grail is that 98/2 that is only minimally stretchy and has a velvety soft hand but is still substantial. My Dres are this type of denim but I had some similarly priced 98/2 AGs that were way stretchier. I hate overly stretchy denim, as I think it makes me look lumpy, plus I find it itchy, but I know I'm in the minority. I think that premium or not, companies make what sells, and super stretch is what's selling right now.

There is not so wide a gulf between premium and midrange denim in terms of fabric quality these days. Back when premium denim was first becoming a big thing (early 2000's) it was really different.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

What Diana said.

I feel much the same way but we seem to be in the minority.

My holy grail denim is the 98/2 mix in the Citizens of Humanity Racer Patina wash. It is different to all other CoH jeans I have yet tried, nowhere near as stretchy and to my taste much better. Now if they would just use that same fabric in a mid rise.

I do like or at least can tolerate some stretchier denims if they are a substantial weight. Especially for tucking into tall boots in winters. But many bag out too much after one wear and that frustrates me no end.

binkle

Veteran

Ugh, I'm so old school even 2% bugs me, but sadly unavoidable in more stylish cuts. I remember getting 501s - and you had to do a little math to convert your (female) waist measure to the product's male waist, and then put them on, sit in a tub of water, and shrink to fit. Ye olden days

That being said, I've got some 10 year old Levis Red jeans 98/2 that I do love, also one pair R13 that have some stretch.

Anonymous

I prefer stretch and other fabrications because I find them more comfortable, if not as long lasting. 100% cotton is generally a no for me. 98/2 would depend on the feel. That said, I am looking for a more old school jean right now in terms of a looser style as long as it's not a super high rise, which is not flattering to me. I don't need another skinny jean right now.

Greyscale

Veteran

I've always been a 98%+ cotton stalwart... until I found R13 jeans, which are my expensive addiction. Their jeans are 24% nylon but I love the feel and durability of the denim. So I guess the lesson for me is that yes, I'm very picky about how fabrics feel, but it's not as easy to predict what I'll like. I'm sure there are other synthetic blends from other brands that I'd like, too.

The other thing I've realized is that there are all sorts of fiber treatments that aren't marked on the label, so one cotton is not the same as another.

Style Fan

Veteran

I prefer my jeans to feel like real denim. Does anyone know what that is? I would love a pair of raw denim jeans to break in myself. I don't like really stretchy jeans and it does annoy me when premium denim is not 98% cotton but I have gotten over it. I had a melt down last year in Florida when my beloved Citizens (probably the same as Suz's) gave out and I couldn't replace them.
Ten years ago premium denim jeans lasted forever. They did not stretch out. Today I find premium denim jeans are not as reliable. I have bought premium denim jeans that have failed after six months. And some that stretch out after a few hours of wear.
That is interesting what Greyscale wrote. Yes there is the cotton treatment to consider. More for me to worry about.

I have been searching for the perfect pair of jeans since I was a teenager.

kkards

Veteran

my holy grail is a good fit…..i don't worry about my jeans lasting forever, because i'm not wearing it forever, i just want it to look good and fit well while i am wearing it…..

Anonymous

I don't care for stretchy jeans either - the seams get ripply. It's also hard to know what size I am because 3 sizes in the same jean can fit (thanks Spandex). The less stretch, the better. It seems once I find my ideal fabric mix, there's always fit and style to contend with, making it nearly impossible lately to find jeans that meet my criteria.

Notice to the world: I'm looking for at least 98% cotton denim with a 9" rise that aren't skinny jeans! No rips and holes! For less than $150!

kkards

Veteran

anne - have you tried either of these brands?

Jag Jeans 'Patton' Stretch Straight Leg Jeans (Blue Shadow)

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KUT from the Kloth 'Natalie' Bootcut Jeans (Vagos)

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4

Anonymous

kkards: You are sweet for linking to those jeans! I like the cuts of those pictured, but not the uniform wash or the flap pockets on the Kuts (my backside doesn't need them). I'm going to look at those brands further, though. Admittedly, I haven't looked at Kut from the Kloth for years because they used to be a stretchy brand that ran short on me. Based on the description, though, those pants would be long enough and they're mainly cotton. Thank you for pointing me in their direction!

Anonymous

Update: I found these. Does Kut still run large?

KUT from the Kloth 'Natalie' Stretch Bootleg Jeans (Closeness) (Regular & Petite)

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Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

I don't know an answer to your question, but I will say that content is only a small part of what makes a fabric what it is. Much more of it has to do with the formation of the threads, the weight of the threads, and how those threads are woven into fabric.
A few of my favorite jeans right now are Mother; the ones I'm wearing today have 92% cotton, 6% polyester, and 2% elasthane. The seams don't ripple, but they are very stretchy--not what you're after.

Ledonna N.

Veteran

I'm not sure if it is "old school" but I like stretch denim. It gives me room to maneuver around.

Runcarla

Veteran

What's premium about premium denim? I like my 100% cotton 505's and have had luck with 98/2 at MWWH that are thick and non - stretchy.

Anonymous

Due to chronic pain, I now prefer denim with.stretch.

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

I like stretch denim, but of course not the fabrics that bag out so much that they slide down by the end of the day. I also like stuff that I can wear till bedtime without dying to get into my pajamas.

I don't think there's any one fabric that's perfect in all cuts and all washes.

AG Prima is a good combo. So is Paige Transcend. Not sure what is in Mother and Citizens but like those as well. I had a pair of Free People last summer that Angie said were itchy due to too much polyester, and she was right, and I had to get rid of them.

Anonymous

UmmLila - I'm curious about the Paige Transcend denim. Paige used to be my "go to" brand, but the increase in synthetics put me off (I have a pair of Hidden Hills straight leg with ripply seams and they get itchy). I was even buying the Paige Jimmy Jimmy Boyfriends on eBay because they didn't stretch out (that 98/2 combo I love) and were difficult to find. More feedback (if you have any) about the Transcend denim would be welcome.

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

The Transcend mix sounds quite weird. They describe my recent purchase as "10.5 oz TRANSCEND Fabric
55% Rayon, 26% Cotton, 18% Polyester, 1% Spandex"

"Using our TRANSCEND fiber technology for a luxuriously soft feel, comfortable fit and unyielding support, the mid rise Jane Zip Crop offers sleek zip detailing along the front pockets and exterior ankles rounding out its edgy attitude. Marry its faded, dark grey wash with white leather for a fresh rocker look."

They do feel very smooth and they don't stretch much. I have worn a few times but haven't washed them yet, however I prefer to wash jeans as infrequently as possible so I likely won't have a review on that point for awhile.