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OT - Nova Scotia recommendations

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Hello, lovely ladies!

My husband and I are planning a little getaway to celebrate (a little belatedly) our 10-year anniversary and my upcoming birthday. We wanted to go somewhere we hadn't been before and somewhere we would get a break from the oppressive heat and humidity of the mid-Atlantic summer. Somehow, without us ever speaking of Nova Scotia before, we both came up with that answer at the same time, so it was a no-brainer. The idea makes even more sense considering we honeymooned in Canada in the Canadian Rockies and loved it.

I am starting to research places to stay, see, and eat, but it occurred to me that some of you here may have recommendations, especially since we have so many Canadian members. We particularly like places that are off-the-beaten-path, authentic (where the locals, not the tourists, eat, etc.), and adventurous, although we will do the touristy thing if it's a must-see. I think we may be up for some camping, but not sure yet -- hubs is going to be working in the Texas heat for the next couple of weeks, so he may be ready for a little luxury by then. We will definitely be up for renting a car and exploring, day-hiking, etc.

Any suggestions welcome!

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14 replies

Latest reply was from Janet

L'Abeille

Veteran

Just chiming in to say, I am at work now but will definitely be back with some recommendations (sadly, many of them for places I am still looking forward to visiting myself). I am in the next province over.

pil

Veteran

We went to Nova Scotia and PEI for our June honeymoon some 28 years ago. Not swimsuit weather to be sure! I really don't remember any destinations other than Peggy's Cove and the Bay of Fundy. Be sure to have a lobster roll or two - they even sold them at McDonald's. There were also lobster dinners put on by churches, yum! Can you tell it's all about the food for me?

You should come home with some fabulous pictures.

cinnamon fern

Veteran

Hey, I'm from Halifax, although I haven't lived there in a long time! I assume that's where you'll be flying into?

Downtown Halifax is really small. I like the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (but I'm prejudiced because my mom worked there), the Public Gardens, and the big farmers' market. I would not bother going to the Citadel unless you're really into forts. The art school (NSCAD) generates a lot of life, but maybe not so much during the summer break.

My favorite bar used to be the Economy Shoe Shop, although I haven't been there in a while. There are also a bunch of places for Celtic music.

I have no restaurant recommendations, I've had a lot of mediocre meals in Halifax in the last ten years (this might reflect my parents' taste in restaurants). The paradigmatic local food is the donair, which is an ordinary doner kebab but with a sticky sweet sauce. Seafood can be very good but isn't always. In the country, there are lots of places for fried seafood - make sure what you ordered is actually in season, otherwise it'll be frozen.

All the places I just mentioned are within ten minutes walk. If you want to go running, go to Point Pleasant park - it's something like a mile from downtown, so you can just run there and make a loop around the coast. I wouldn't spend more than a day or two in Halifax though.

Outside of Halifax: beaches are beautiful, but cold. There are lots of lakes, which are better for swimming and ideal for kayaking. In Keji (Kejimikujik) you can rent canoes and take either short trips or multi-day ones.

Lunenburg is one of the major tourist attractions. People complain that it's gotten touristy and crowded, but it's nothing like the big DC tourist attractions. I think it's still spectacular. It's an easy day trip, and you can stop in some of the other coastal towns on the way if you want.

Cape Breton is a five hour drive (you can also fly) and is fabulous. You can hike, bike (it's hilly), and see moose and fjords. The history is fishing and coal mining, both of which are depressing (a lot of people died, then the economy collapsed) but fascinating.

cinnamon fern

Veteran

Oh right, lobster! Lobster prices are tragic right now (tragic for the fishermen, that is). My mom has been buying lobster every week from a fisherman who parks his truck at Sam's Club.

Peggy's Cove is beautiful, but probably the most densely-touristed place in the province. Prospect is similar, and also nice.

L'Abeille

Veteran

Didn't the Public Gardens and Point Prospect Park get wasted when Hurricane Juan went through? I know they aren't near what they used to be.

Raisin

Veteran

I"m from Halifax area Janet! I definitely recommend Peggy's Cove for a beautiful, anniversary date. Do you know yet where you will be going/staying? Are you hitting Halifax? I will try to come up with some good recommendations and get back to you.

Makrame

Veteran

It's funny, DH and I just watched a travel show on PBS last night about Nova Scotia and Newfoundland (Rudy Maxa). We would like to go sometime, too, so I will keep an eye on this thread.

cinnamon fern

Veteran

L'Abeille, they did, but ten years is a long time - especially for the PG. Trees take longer unfortunately.

Raisin

Veteran

Back with recommendations!

My very favorite restaurant of late in Halifax is Gingergrass Thai and Vietnamese restaurant. O.M.G. It's to die for. I could eat it all day, everyday. 1284 Barrington St in Halifax. http://www.gingergrass.ca/

Another one that serves Thai, but also yummy Indian food is Grand Taj Restaurant. It had a fire a while ago, but I think it's back up and running now. It's close to the first restaurant. 5175 South St. grandtajdine.com

Of course, Seafood is the thing to experience in the Maritimes! I'll be honest I haven't tried too many of the restaurants but if you take a walk along the water front, there are many good ones there.

So, no secret we like our beer out East too. If you're into that, then a lot of people love the local Brewery Tour. Alexander Keith's is the local beer and you can take a fun, beer tasting tour of the downtown brewery!
1496 Lower Water St, Halifax

The markets! I haven't been in a long time, but I remember the local markets to be awesome. There are a couple. Historic farmers market is smaller if I remember, but it takes you through some older, historic buildings.
http://www.historicfarmersmarket.ca/

The Seaport Farmer's market is located on the Pier, and is supposed to be AWESOME! I haven't been, but I need to go too. Lots of local grub and stuff. http://www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com/

What dates are you going? Every summer they put on the Buskers show on the waterfront. They are buskers from all over the world doing shows like acrobatics, magic, comedy, etc. They're all set up right on the water and you watch the shows and leave a tip. They're from July 31-Aug 5th this year. A LOT of fun!

A little drive away from Halifax, you can go to Murphy's Camping on the Ocean. There you can do some fun stuff like Kayaking too!
http://www.murphyscamping.ca/

Also like someone mentioned, the Bay of Fundy is a great spot. But the park in on the New Brunswick side. It is however, worth seeing. You can walk the trails there, go kayaking, take a picture under the hopewell rocks when the tide is out! Even the drive along the Fundy to get to the park is worth seeing. You can also drive just a few more hours west and visit me!! haha!
http://www.thehopewellrocks.ca.....o-get-here

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Sveta

(website)

Veteran

Our most memorable part of Nova Scotia / New Brunswick vacation were 3 days on Grand Manan Island. You have to take ferry off the mainland for about 30 miles into the open ocean, a nice ride in a calm sea.
There are accommodations there as well but we stayed in a tend in the Hole-In-A-Wall campground - the best campground I have ever stayed! They have cliff sites where your campsite overlooks an ocean. Just imagine: you are in your tent at night and listen how whales breathe right below! The whole island is so remote and rustic it just makes a n unforgettable vacation spot. In addition they say this island is the best whale watching spot in North America: it is already 30 miles into the ocean so you get pretty far in the boat and able to see a lot.
Other favorite places there: Hopewell rocks (everybody goes there but they are worth it), Fundy trail. Best beaches are on the eastern coast between mainland and PEI - the water is really warm there.
Another very interesting thing to see in Nova Scotia is Tidal Bore near Truro: when twice a day tide forces river into a different direction - fun to see!

Nicole D

Veteran

Cape Breton is beautiful. Cabot Trail not to be missed. We went to Halifax and Bay of Fundy last year (DH's family are there) and had a great time (with kids though). The tall ships were in which was fun too. Have a wonderful trip!

cheryle (Dianthus)

(website)

Veteran

Hi Janet, I have been to Halifax a few times and it is a lovely city with great restaurants. A co-worker of mine just got back from Halifax today though and was talking about how the humidity was very difficult to manage. I understand it is very humid there in the summer. You might want to check on it before you book since you mentioned wanting to get away from that type of weather.

Have you ever been to Quebec City? I was there a few years ago and it was one of the pretties cities I have seen. We have talked about going back a few times.

L'Abeille

Veteran

OK I'm back. I'll start with places I have actually been and can recommend:

If you like history there's lots of it.

Even though Evangeline was a fictional character, there is a statue of her in Grand Pre (on the Fundy Shore side of the province) as well as lots of Acadian history and culture. That area also includes some little wineries, orchards, and the artsy/theatre university town of Wolfville (my son attended Acadia there--although we hail from the competing artsy-music university town of Sackville New Brunswick, AKA Sappyfest if you're into indie music festivals).

If you like boats...lots of stuff along the Eastern Shore (north and south of Halifax). Peggy's Cove is claimed to be the most picturesque fishing village ever, with every vista stunning. Lunenburg is a UN heritage site for its unique layout. But even the german farmers are known to wear kilts for the haying. Because it is New Scotland after all.

The North Shore (Northumberland Strait) is where you'll find the warm water beaches, although the nicest beaches are just over the border to the west (insert plug for Parlee Beach New Brunswick). Scottish history is concentrated here. Pictou is one of my favourite towns, the landing site of may Scots families and keeps the heritage, but other towns too have street signs in Gaelic and English.

Must-do things while you're here: a lobster supper (the church kind) and a ceilidh or kitchen party (sort of a jam session with lots of fiddling).

Now to places I have yet to visit but would be wonderful:
Cape Breton: the Cabot trail (drive around) and the saltwater Bras d'Or Lakes in the centre of the island; several seriously Scottish historical places (some children still speak Gaelic at home there) and the Fortress of Louisbourg, the first French fort, with staffers in period costume, and restaurants serving period food with period utensils (no forks).

Halifax to me is most interesting because the British set it up at the same time as Cape Town, so it has exactly the same architecture with the citadel/parade grounds/ public parks/waterfront. Otherwise, fun if you're there for the Buskers or Tall Ships Festivals, but it tries to be cosmopolitan but is a small city, the rural spots may be more fun if you are used to cities.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Oh, this is GREAT stuff, thank you!

Peggy's Cove and the Cape Breton area were already definitely on my list. We'll probably fly into Halifax. Looking at mid-August. I am taking lots of notes! Thank you!