Opportunity to have bespoke item made... - YouLookFab Forum

Category

General

Welcome! Read about what to wear and how to wear it on the YLF Blog. Join the YLF Forum to ask specific questions or just chat about fashion and personal style. Or check out the curated list of things we love in YLF Finds.

Outfits Ensembles Trends Advice

Opportunity to have bespoke item made...

catgirl

Veteran

There is a traveling tailor from Asia that periodically comes to town, and many of the male and female lawyers here swear by his custom pieces. A coworker has had a whole work capsule made. So he's in town next week to take orders. DH is planning to have some shirts and possibly a suit made.

I am thinking of getting MY perfect long blazer made, as I've been unable to find one (Gryffin!). Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get the best bang for my buck in terms of material and design longevity?

General

25 replies

Latest reply was from UmmLila (Lisa)

Jeanie

Veteran

Oh, I am so jealous! I have often wanted to have some pieces custom made. Use the best Italian wool you can find. I'm not sure where you would get it. Does he offer fabric choices?

abc

Veteran

No advice, but an old boss did the same. He worked in finance in NYC and there was a traveling tailor who made his shirts. He said they weren't outrageously expensive either. I think you should go with your gut. You know your style. Good q re fabrics from post above. Keep us updated please.

Laurie

Try Mood Fabrics. They have a NYC store that offers online ordering and a swatch service. They also have a store in LA, but not sure if that store does internet sales. Lots of high quality wool fabric from designers you will recognize.

abc

Veteran

Ha, I remember mood from project runway

Laurie

Yep, that's the one! I order from them frequently.

catgirl

Veteran

I think he provides the fabrics as well - my friend's seem to be good quality. Will need to see about price, eek.

JAileen

Veteran

I would just make sure the fabric was 100 percent natural fiber, such as wool. That's probably what he offers, anyway.

My son bought a jacket at a garage sale that was custom made for someone in Hong Kong. It was beautifully made, but from the 70s maybe, out of loud polyester! He really enjoyed wearing it, though.

Helen11

Veteran

Sounds very promising. I would love to have clothes tailor made (yet I'm sure I could learn to sew if I really wanted to!). I guess have a figure in your head for what you'd be willing to pay off- the- shelf, plus alterations, and see how that compares to the tailors cost.

Anonymous

I think this is the best idea ever!! If I had the opportunity to have something custom made, I would jump at it. Despite the fact that you live in Alaska and could probably handle heavier wools then me, I would still suggest the lightest weight wool possible I say this assuming that the blazer would be mostly indoor.

cheryle (Dianthus)

(website)

Veteran

A group of young business grads started a similar business in our city. Unfortunately they only do menswear as the fit for women is much more challenging to get right. I bought three suits for my son, Tony has two suits from them, and they both have quite a few shirts. My son wore a 44 jacket and 34 pant when we bought the first one and the fit was perfect.

They order from China and take detailed measurements so a similar process but the guys here do the measures and then the items are made in China. They have literally hundreds of fabric swatches and options. We picked a super 130's wool for my son and the fabric is lovely. The shirts are a bit more challenging because the content isn't provided.

It is a great option for a custom fit and well worth a try especially for people with hard to fit shapes.

kkards

Veteran

wow, sounds like a great opportunity to get exactly what you want. love the idea of a long blazer….do you have any need for an actual suit? that would seem like a natural as well.

gryffin

Veteran

Una - well that's a seriously amazing opportunity but you really need to do your homework and make a lot of important decisions to maximize your chance for that perfect jacket. I think the most important thing is you should literally scour the internet for photos of exactly what you are looking for style-wise. The good part is you don't have to worry about brand fit, the tailor will get that right just the aesthetic look you want. Factors to give strong thought:
1. Length - exactly where do you want this jacket to hit
2. Silhouette - I would definitely go with single breasted for first jacket. - Lapels - for maximimum longevity I would avoid extremes but I prefer them narrower
- sleeves - arm holes- do you want to be able to layer? high cut arm holes are trending (theory I'm looking at you) they give a longer slimmer line but you can't layer easily
- sleeves - length. I like my sleeves long to base of thumb. This allows me enough length to roll them. You need to decide what you want. Also if you get a great lining (more on that) it will allow you to showcase that.
- stance - I prefer my jackets to cross right at the base of my bra band. It allows a nice look if buttoned with just a cami underneath. You need to decide how you will wear the jacket and with what and what your most flattering stance height.
- number of buttons - do you want to be able to wear the jacket buttoned as a tunic/coat dress? This provides maximum versatility and is a must for me. That determines a less fitted but in the body and length. I prefer 3 button so I can wear it closed even though I often leave the last button unbuttoned. It would be long enough over leather leggings.
- color - I know you are off black but dark is more formal. Do you want it dressy enough to function for le smoking? Either dark charcoal/or textured charcoal as pseudo neutral or ink if you don't choose black
- lining - a gorgeous silk lining in a print might provide you with the edge you crave and if you roll sleeves you can showcase it. Also you could have a waistcoat made to match reversible with the silk of the lining and material. if you get a high enough stance on the waistcoat and enough tiny buttons it will also work as a top. very elegant buttoned and sexy without being at all bare
- material - finest wool of course but check out theory's fabric content you might want a tiny bit of strech for ease and bounce back.
- extras - even if you don't have them made do you want to buy extra material so you could have a pair of pants/skirt/dress, also lining fabric if you pick something gorgeous for a top/cami/dress? or it this just a one shot piece to test the waters.
Anyway this is the short list of what is running through my mind. So excited for you. Can't wait to hear if you do it and what you think!!

Elizabeth P

Veteran

Oh wow, what a great opportunity! And I bet the price won't be as scary as you think.

Great list from gryffin!

Alassë

Veteran

I think this is going to be a great thing for you!

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Have low expectations. Each time I had something tailor made - major disappointment.

Bijou

Veteran

I was so excited to read Griffin's amazing advice, but Angie's post brought me back to reality as alas I have also suffered the same fate with tailor made items! The best outcome I have ever had was to take an item that I loved and wanted copied (for example, if you have a perfect jacket, but want it in a different colour) it seems to help the tailor get the cut and style right. I really hope this works out well for you.

catgirl

Veteran

Angie, that is good advice. I've had stuff tailor-made in India with good success (Indian clothes, of course) - and I have seen this guy's work in person. And I don't know his prices.

Gryffin, great list! I'm looking for something like the Theory jacket. In fact, I found a long one at the Rack but even in an 8 the shoulders were strained though the rest was too big. Maybe I will buy one to show him and then return it, or is that evil? I buy so much at Nordstrom!

Thanks for all the tips and encouragement!

gryffin

Veteran

Una - did you get the theory marcela style? I have that jacket and it runs narrow in the back and has very high cut arm holes. I have a smaller chest and less pronounced shoulder line (but otherwise I think we are very similiar) and it runs narrow on me and I can't layer. That's also a single button. The selata, which I've mentioned runs about 30" which I think is not your favorite length but runs roomier and a lower cut armhole and has two buttons. See what you think silhouette wise, it's my favorite for versatility and I'm actually wearing it today. You could almost combine the style - length and slightly more tapered marcela with the selata's roomier arms and armholes and buttons and well personally I would have died and gone to heaven. I do think try on at home for the tailor would help. Theory makes the best suiting fabric and if he feels it he'll know what to recommend, plus it will have the tags with fabric content.

catgirl

Veteran

I think it's the Selata at the Rack but will need to doublecheck. Theory almost always runs too narrow in the shoulders for my size. How tall are you again? 30" is tunic length on me which I don't mind but want to be as versatile and stylish as possible.

Jules

Veteran

Not evil. As you said you buy a lot from Nordstrom, and I believe you've tried to make Theory items work for you.
I would imagine you'll get some idea from the reaction of the tailor - whether he seems to "get" the design and why the original doesn't work for you. If he tries, for example, to push some other design without considering your wants and needs, I'd be wary.

gryffin

Veteran

I'm 5'3" and 30" is tunic length on me too. the first pick is the marcela the info says 30". I think it's at least 33: Fingertip is 33 for me. I am usually a size 6 (and take a 6 in theory pants/skirts and they are roomy but find the jacket shoulders run tight hence the 8) Notice the one button, can't wear as a tunic, narrow body, high cut armholes, very narrow sleeves. Very elegant but I find it less versatile. The second is the selata listed as 28" No way it's at least 30-31" I love this jacket. Wear buttoned (2 button, perfect stance) or open, can layer, it's the bomb. I love theory's fabric, all season, never wrinkles, wears well. But it's what you like. If I could adjust the marcela - lower armholes, slightly fuller through the body, three button it would be perfection. For me the selata is perfect as is. Good luck and sorry the selata did not work out. It's really one of my favorite jackets.

This post has 2 photos. Photos uploaded by this member are only visible to other logged in members.

If you aren't a member, but would like to participate, please consider signing up. It only takes a minute and we'd love to have you.

K. Period.

Veteran

I'm laughing at myself right now! I was sure--absolutely certain--this must be an old zombie post back from the grave. Didn't you consider this a couple of years ago?

So, my experience: When I was a new associate, I worked with a custom-suit maker. Many of my partners had suits made by the same outfit, so I thought it would be a good place to start. The suiting I had made was well-made and nice fabric. However, it was ultra conservative and ultra classic, even when I gave directions to make it otherwise. So, I had to adjust my expectations majorly. Ultimately, I found I got much better fit and value with J Crew suiting. I'm not one to give up easily, though, so I tried with two other, entirely unrelated, highly recommended sewists. Both a bust. It isn't that I think great sewist/taylors don't exist. I really do. I just think there are very few Diane G.s in our world.

I suggest taking a really good look at your colleagues who are having suits made by the tailor and weighing how cutting-edge fashionable they are. If they tend toward conservative clothes, I would approach with caution. What kind of direction will you give to ensure you get the fashion fit you are looking for? Will the tailor be able to break through their assumptions about good fit to make what you want, not what they think you should want?

Would it be possible to ask the tailor to adjust the fit of something that isn't quite right but is very close? If you are asking for major alterations (adjusting shoulder fit, for example), having someone who is accustomed to making from cloth is going to really be to your benefit.

catgirl

Veteran

Thanks for that feedback, K.! I am hoping to create one of those "so conservative it's edgy" blazers, like Theory or Burberry. But there is a fine line there and you may well be right. I will force my friend to let me study her creations more thoroughly!

SandyG

Veteran

Echo the careful study of construction. I had some Hong Kong garments custom made. Being very petite and receiving traditional tailoring, even with wonderful fluid fabrics, is an upholstered nightmare. Seriously, I was a structured, tufted sofa masquerading as a fashion fan. I wouldn't advise undergoing the process if you want a fashionable or edgy look; it doesn't translate well enough if you're not tall. Perhaps if you're very tall you'll be happy and look good.

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

I know some of those Asian tailors can recreate just about anything from a picture (my Thai friend used to get evening wear made after photos she chose from Vogue) but I think something as conservative as suits, from an essentially conservative tailor might not end up with the edge you crave. I'd hate to see you looking Brooks Brothers and not Le Smoking.