UPDATE! The mystery is solved! I discovered why the cardigan has turned out so massive.
I went back to the pattern to reread the gauge. (My gauge even in-progress was still dead on for the pattern’s requirements.) And there my eyes alighted on this precious fragment: sizes XYZ measured at underarms.
Measure around the chest at underarms not bust.
It’s partly my fault. I actually did read this tiny yet crucial distinction when first setting up to knit and then somehow I forgot a few minutes later.
It’s (maybe) partly the designer’s fault. Most women’s knit sweater patterns are measured around the full bust. In fact, most men’s knit sweater patterns call for measurement at full chest. Very rarely does a designer call for chest/bust measurement to be made at the underarms or upper bust. Well, this one did and I’m not sure why. The designer is not busty to say the least. (Often indie designers subconsciously design to fit their own body shape.) Maybe too she was emphasizing the loose, boxy fit.
Technically, even with the measurement at the underarms the resulting torso shouldn’t have gained so much excess ease. There are no torso or bust increases after the initial raglan shaping. Even the pattern’s schematic shows the torso maintaining the same circumference from armpit to hip. Nonetheless, I had 6+ inches of excess ease in the bust and torso.
I feel like an idiot for missing this small but extremely key piece of information. Nevertheless, I found it. I’m hoping this results in a much better fit.
I spent 20 minutes ripping and picking up stitches before hopping on here to reply. I feel a bit knackered for some reason. (Who knew ripping could fatigue a person ha!) And I’m relieved the mystery is solved!
thank you, dear ladies for the lovely feedback and help! I am so grateful for the friendship and support I find here with my Fab Friends <3