Is the middle ground disappearing in clothes retailing? - YouLookFab Forum

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Is the middle ground disappearing in clothes retailing?

Sal

Veteran

Hi All,

I am low key looking for a couple of new things - jeans, pants suit, sweater..

I used to be a real middle ground shopper - but it feels like this area is reducing and there is growth in designer/super high end retail or lower end/cheaper clothing.

What do I mean?

Jeans - I can buy premium which is $400 plus here in NZD, or I can get cheaper own brands for maybe $69 or $99 - there does not seem to be much in the middle.

Blazers - either designer at close to $600 or maybe cheaper dept store brands for about $129 - anything in between is black...

The good news - I am not tempted with the cheaper garments, and the premium end takes serious consideration.

It might also be just a perception - it seems like Hermes and Chanel designer bags are very prevalent but this could be a social media thing.

Is this happening in your part of the world too?

Cheers
Sally

Shopping

33 replies

Latest reply was from Sal

Star

Veteran

I only thrift mostly but when I go in malls I have noticed this. Either only cheap low quality items or super expensive and not always great quality either. But this is not new here. I noticed this when I moved here in 2015. In South Africa there are more middle ground options although they were getting less too when I moved. That is why I thrift. Here we have amazing thrift options, yes a lot of tat but also a lot of gems. The prices are super low as they get reduced within the month. The stores never hold stock for more than one month.

Bijou

Veteran

Yes - that is definitely the case in Australia. Department stores, which used to be a good source of middle-ground retail items are also struggling.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

Well obviously I am in the same country as you Sally but yes, absolutely. I’m still getting Fashion Quarterly magazine (on loyalty points not with actual $) and every quarter for about a year I’m so disappointed that the only editorial content and fashion features are Louis Vuitton, Prada, etc etc or high-end NZ designers, everything hundreds or thousands of $$. It didn’t used to be like this. Perhaps designer brands are the only ones who will advertise? I still like looking at the photos but eventually it will become pointless when I’m never considering buying anything they show?
I really like what I think may be called “bridge brands” (at least I learned that term on the forum) so in NZ terms perhaps brands like Verge? Rather than Glassons or similar.
So the only way I am accomplishing getting the limited amount of clothes I am currently buying is mainly using sales at the nice boutiques or the odd lower end items, and a wee bit of thrifting.

Jules

Veteran

I think it might be particularly true for denim and blazers - just based on my own attempts to shop better quality local brands, those two items are not well represented. Maybe a matter of economies of scale. For bigger brands I think Banana Republic is trying to fill that space currently. Subjectively I feel their prices have gone up while the Gap and Old Navy stay about the same. On the other end Nordstroms of course just exited Canada maybe partially on the basis that the market for luxury brands just isn’t what they expected. Just some disjointed thoughts.

Dee

Veteran

I'm not even sure what the middle ground is anymore, as so much of what's out there now all seems fast fashion.
The quality of production has drastically changed over the last decade with so many of these brands, that I have to agree Sal, there doesn't appear to be much of a real middle ground anymore.

Sal

Veteran

Yes I do think quality is dropping across the price levels. And department stores are struggling- many of them anyway.

It could be my age too. I went to a local suburban mall yesterday to find teo of my favourites had closed to be replaced by a teenage store and another nail salon. Maybe I am not the target market?

Brooklyn

Veteran

I feel like there are some good middle ground retailers here, like Witchery, Country Road, Trenery, Saba, Sportscraft, Seed. Cue and Veronika Maine are a little more expensive than that group, but their designs are more interesting too. And lots of smaller middle priced retailers like Bec+Bridge, MoS.

I do wonder how they are all doing. Witchery no longer has a flagship store in Pitt St Mall, Sydney. In fact, there are few clothing retailers there now. It’s mostly the big cheaper internationals (Zara, H&M), sports stores, make up stores and jewellery stores.

I went shopping in the city last week and I was very uninspired.

Anonymous

I've been buying more from BR in the last couple years, and do a lot of boutique shopping. Even if I had a lot of money, I don't think I'd buy anything really high end.

LaPed

Veteran

I've definitely noticed the proliferation of designer bags in every setting, but especially paired with lower-end (often athleisure) outfits. It stands out to me because it's more or less the opposite of how I allocate my clothing budget!

LJP

Veteran

I think our Canadian dollar is more in line with yours, Sally, than with the US dollar, so yes, I absolutely agree. Your denim example is exactly what I've been saying here for years. The US dollar allows Americans to buy premium denim at tolerable prices, but in Canada (as in NZ) $400 for Mother or AG or whatever the brand is? Forget it.

I'm sure part of it is simply the effect of inflation , but I find it as frustrating as you do. Yes, there are brands/retailers out there offering good middle ground stuff - Massimo Dutti comes to mind - but there sure aren't many of them. I especially find this in footwear too. The really interesting looks are at prices I don't want to pay, or are knocked off but the fast fashion guys often with inferior materials.

I could go on and on.....lol.

Irina

Veteran

I think that depends on the market. Smaller markets like in Canada, NZ are more affected. Especially if our respective governments choose to protect local retail. If we didn’t have to pay duties here, in Canada, we would have a choice to order from EU, UK and other places.

I think in Europe or US one can find more interesting brands in the mid range prices.

Another point is one’s personal decision on wardrobe priorities. I bought a good pair of running shoes because I want to ensure safety of my injured leg. I would never pay more than $50 for any other athletic gear, it’s not my lifestyle. But I would pay a reasonable (to me) amount of money for a purse from a designer brand I like.

Sisi

Veteran

Yes, definitely. I regret the good old times when I could find, for a reasonable price, excellent, high quality clothing (for those who do not know I am in Italy).

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Sal, my fast response is that I am nodding along with Brooklyn and Irina.

As LJP mentioned, in the US we are VERY lucky with pricing, frequent, discounts, and free shipping!

nuancedream

Veteran

Nodding in 100% agreement with suntiger. I don't think I will ever forgive Nordstrom for discontinuing Classiques Entier, a stellar bridge line with well-designed, quality clothing.

bj1111

Veteran

I’m with @nuancedream—still missing Classiques as a great “affordable” line with great design elements.

@Jenny—likewise with Net-a-Porter. I use to browse for inspiration and file ideas for sale season. Now, there is a sameness to the designer look and eye watering prices.

I have tried high end jeans—my faves in fit and color remain old navy and the gap.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

MISSING CLASSIQUES ENTIER TOO!!!

And so do most of my clients.......

Don't know WHAT Nordies was thinking getting rid of that absolutely stellar in-house brand.

birdie99

Hi, I completely agree about the proliferation of the luxury bags and asked about this on the forum last year!

I don’t understand the disconnect between all the media about increasing cost of living pressures and what I see when I am out and about. Anyway … each person has their own story so they must be able to afford it.

I also agree with you @brooklyn about the good range of middle items in Australia at the moment. Witchery and Country Road/Trenery are great options for decent clothes and I recently bought a lovely dress from Cue for a wedding and it was a good price being on sale.

Would love to hear of other brands that are affordable and good quality.

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Interesting question. I honestly don't know - I have luxury taste on a thrifter's budget. And strangely the brands that I come across that are not luxury but not terrible quality tend to be the upscale "sisters" of fast fashion behemoths: COS and Massimo Dutti.

Bijou

Veteran

@birdie99 - if you are looking for well-made leather bags I recommend Oroton. I bought a fab bag in the current sale as a gift for my sister and it was just under A$200 - the quality is stunning. I also like Quay for sunglasses, which you can get for under A$100. Whilst these are not inexpensive prices, I consider them to be quality without designer label pricing.

birdie99

Thanks!! Agree Oroton is amazing!

Jenni NZ

Veteran

Australians: what level of quality do you think Blue Illusion is? I got my new floral dress for the wedding I attended in Canada there, Black Friday sale last November. It’s floaty viscose. Quality seems reasonable. As good as Witchery??
I have a store near me and there was a Witchery store too which has just (for no apparent reason) closed.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

Further to that, I just Googled Witchery stores in Auckland. Our population is 1.4 million as of last year and there are now precisely 2 Witchery stores for that large number. The local one had been very close to me and now I would have to travel over our Harbour Bridge

Brooklyn

Veteran

Jenni, my only Blue Illusion purchase, until last week, was a set of green beads (which I love).

Last week I ordered a puffer jacket from them. I haven’t received it yet. I’m not usually attracted to puffer jackets but the pattern really spoke to me. So I hope the quality is good!

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Jenni NZ

Veteran

Oh wow Brooklyn that’s one gorgeous jacket. Perfect match for your green beads too!

Star

Veteran

That jacket is very you Brooklyn!

Sal

Veteran

Witchery has closed in one mall here - Forever New is moving in. Max also closed in the last 12 months - and the Country Road is not a good store - it has a very small range. The growth here is in nail salons, makeup stores, sneakers and H&M and Zara etc.

Thanks for the comments and reflections. I think the current exchange rate is not helping - but I think the middle ground is probably affected by the inflation, move to more sports gear, move away from office attire.

I have been mostly purchasing at a higher price point than I used to - or thrifting/ second hand shopping. It just crystallised in me when I went to the mall and saw the changes - and how I felt about what was on offer.

I have a good base or clothing - must be very hard for people trying to build a wardrobe on a moderate budget.

Personal priorities do come into play - I feel like bags and sports gear and shoes get the most wear so these are priorities.

I do want to support local - there are some lovely boutiques in my city and towns near by luckily.

birdie99

Blue Illusion is great. I often buy my mum items from there (she’s a very stylish older lady) and the styles and quality are excellent. I love their accessories too - scarves and necklaces are original and last a long time.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

What I've noticed here in Canada is that the "middle" has become more expensive and so -- it still exists, but it's a tougher reach for those of us who are not working corporate jobs (or independently wealthy). Stalking sales can help (but then your size is often gone). What used to be affordable to me on a teacher's salary is no longer affordable unless I can get it on sale.

Having said that, some so-called fast fashion proves anything but fast, for me. I have Zara items that have lasted years. Meanwhile, some of the so-called middle ground retailers have failed me at times. J. Crew used to be pretty consistently good quality -- now it is mixed. BR was good, then bad, and now seems to be improving (though the prices are higher, too.)

For me, denim is a high and low situation. I will pay a lot for jeans I love (not 400 CAD, but 200 or so.) I will also pay a little, because I often find ones that work on sale at Gap and Old Navy ($70 to $27). Because of the missing middle, I'm more likely to go high on some types of item (jeans, footwear, coats) and low on others that matter to me less.

LaPed

Veteran

Love that puffer jacket, Brooklyn!!

Some more thoughts, based on my peers and locale --

Folks my age (30s - 40s) still rely on mid-range brands (esp Talbots, J Crew, and Loft) for workwear, but we need a lot less of this than in the past. Many have moved to full or part-time WFH, and most of us have a core wardrobe already built up so we don't add loads of new items at a time from those midrange brands. Conversely, most of us have kids and/or hobbies that give our casual and athletic clothes a work out. Most of us are willing to spend as much as or more on high-quality activewear (think Lululemon for the gym, Patagonia for the outdoors) compared to work attire, and from a CPW perspective this makes sense.

Folks in their 20s and entering the workforce seem less likely than previous generations to buy into the idea that they need to "invest" in a career wardrobe, so they're not putting a big chunk of their budget into those midrange brands which used to feel like such a rite-of-passage into adulthood. Again, remote work/school is a factor. I think anyone whose college or high school years took place during the pandemic has a different relationship to getting dressed, public/private(/virtual!), and also just different priorities when it comes to budgeting.

Another factor is online shopping; it is much easier to achieve a mid-range price with a direct-to-consumer model and minimal brick-and-mortar presence. I've ended up with a lot of Everlane over the past decade (it's more or less taken the place of J Crew and the Gap brands for me) because the price:quality ratio is by and large better IME. Also sort of a "gateway drug" for shopping other, smaller direct-to-consumer labels online too.

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