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Individualism as the new recession-proof strategy?

Column

Veteran

Hi all,

Since so many philosophical threads have been thrown out of late, I was hoping to discuss this one: Do you think individualism as a trend is the canary in fashion`s coal mine? In other words, do you think the industry is heading off any downturn in buying by offering something for everyone? We have discussed before the non-matchy-matchy phase of shopping one`s closet (and the rise of resale and accessories) as symptomatic of the early 2000`s recession. In 2016, matching suiting came back along with a roaring economy (at least for some). I see fashion as a cultural sign of other things going on, and I wonder what individualism portends. Your thoughts?

Dressing

35 replies

Latest reply was from cindysmith

Runcarla

Veteran

Oh yes! And ultra long hair as a security blanket.

Anonymous

I don't think it's an expected downturn of buying, as the downturn has been going on for years. So many retail shops are closing and I think the ones left are maybe feeling they have to take up for all those closed ones. Thing is, I think people are just tired of excess. We help our parents and grandparents clear out, and get pennies on the dollar. The maximalism in the shops seems to be a way to encourage the return of excess. But so many options means (at least to me) decision fatigue. It makes me not want any of it-and do my own thing

Gaylene

Veteran

Individualism as a trend seems like a contradiction to me...how individual am I really when, along with others, I’m following a direction created by an industry to keep their profitability intact?

rachylou

Veteran

An interesting question! I’m going to say that I don’t think Individualism is a way for businesses to recession proof. I don’t think they’re offering things for everyone.

What I think is:

1. We are IN a recession. Or that we never truly emerged. Customers are going for individualism because they’re over shopping shopping shopping.

2. Customers are also going for individualism because it’s the philosophy of the era, an outgrowth of Diversity and the American Spirit.

3. Customers are going for individualism because of the Internet, because it’s been tribalising. We don’t have big common experiences anymore. We don’t have to be in front of a tv at the same time each week to watch our shows, and we don’t have to watch something because nothing else is on.

4. We are actually getting less freedom in what we buy because Amazon and Google and so forth sell us to the highest bidder. My nearest lux mall has a Madewell and a Nordstrom which also sells Madewell. It’s like that.

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Interesting question. I like Gaylene's thoughts on individualism as trend. Not sure who is leading what though - social media has disrupted the way a lot of society works for better or worse and we may be in a massive adjustment period. Not sure that Zara is seeing a downturn in sales, for example.

Anonymous

Fascinating question and I'll be reading this thread with great interest.

I'd like to spoke to Gaylene's comment. Like Shevia, I have the general feeling that the fashion industry is not leading this trend in individualism but reacting to it. I have no facts whatsoever to back up that statement. It is just a feeling that we are fed up.

I agree with everything RachyLou and Suntiger wrote. Truthfully, there is so much to consider that I need to think about it some more. We ARE in a recession. We are having to deal with our parents/others estates and are overcome with the sheer volume of stuff that has to be landfilled. And I do mean landfilled. I was literally thinking about his yesterday about my Father.

Style Fan

Veteran

Interesting thread. I find the responses very thoughtful. I agree with what Suntiger, Rachy and Sterling wrote. Mr SF and I are still dealing with the belongings of our parents/loved ones many years after they left us. We are trying to downsize and finding that it is not easy for all kinds of reasons. I am also becoming more conscious about buying less clothing that lasts longer.

For the past few years, I have tried to buy clothing that is part of the 'slow fashion' movement. I have wondered if this is a trend but the companies I am buying from are very small independent companies. They are tiny compared to places like Zara. Minuscule. I am not passing judgement to others who do things differently. This is my decision.

I am fed up with a lot of what is going on. For me, buying clothing from small independent clothing companies that are mostly owned by women is an act of rebellion. I never really thought about it that way until now.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

I am not sure. But I think fashion is struggling in a way? I don’t think it’s really dealing with the ageing population too well. With the exception of the occasional icon like Iris Apfel, it is still trying to sell the same luxury brands using the same thin models. If they didn’t have the up-and-coming Asian consumer( huge generalisation but here in our small country we are acutely aware of the rise of China) then I’m not too sure how they would be doing?
I like Rachylou’s take on it maybe?- having more “tribes”?

kkards

Veteran

id like to suggest that we think of "fashion" and retail as different and distinct...inter-related, but different and distinct....that's why we often see ideas etc on the runway that we never see available to buy....retail, at least as its practiced now, is very data driven....we know what you bought, what's selling this year vs last, both in units and in dollars, we know what you are goggling, how its trending this week, last week, we know what your clicking on, which picture leads to the add to cart....we work out how much experiementation we can have and still make our numbers....and we look at our report card (ie sales and margin) every single day, and are held responsible for those numbers every single day

rachylou

Veteran

Hmm, kkards... makes me think of a few ways to turn the questions: Is retail selling Indivualism? Can retail successfully cater to Individualism?

I’m thinking not, not by the lay of the land...

Also, I’m thinking of retail as distinctly ready-made and not custom...

... but that reminds me of something... I remember being a teen and meeting these other kids who bragged about how their house was ‘custom’. And it baffled me, because I was looking at a lot of builder’s beige. What it meant was their parents had picked one of several standard options. Custom-not-custom.

Column

Veteran

Wow, Rachy (and all); you all made me look up Streep`s cerulean monologue from “The Devil Wears Prada”: https://hellogiggles.com/news/.....gue-plaid/

Bijou

Veteran

One thing that strikes me the more I travel is how homogeneous the retail experience is becoming. Can you ever get away from the large multinationals? I have recently returned from a trip to Beijing and Kuala Lumpur and was shocked that the retail was so much of the same names, same layout, same everything. The KL mall next to my hotel could be transplanted to anywhere in Australia. Finding a unique shopping experience is increasingly more difficult.

Anonymous

Fashion and retail are two distinct entities, I agree with kkards. Having worked in both ends of this game and still being an avid student of both, I'm becoming more and more mentally exhausted by the game that is retail. I don't find it caters to my need for any degree of individualism, but then again, how can it ? Individualism IS NOT an H&M or Zara stuffed full of new looks twice a week just to cater to the whims of the 25-30 year old social media addict. And I don't care how environmentally astute either company purports to be: it's still fast fashion crap at the end of day, and too much of it. I'm getting off topic.

I'd love to make that leap to Style Fan's territory: buying from small, special makers who have a different agenda and who provide quality clothing . There's where true individuality can shine. I keep announcing I'm going to go that route, but it hasn't happened yet as I keep getting emotionally sucked into the retail game designed specifically for people like me . UGH.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I'm with Shevia, Sterling and Suntiger. How eloquent you are! I don't think the fashion industry is leading the Individualism trend, but rather reacting to it.

Individualism is SAFE in soooo many ways, especially in a world that is more diverse and accepting than it used to be. Although still not diverse and accepting enough.

Liesbeth

Veteran

Intruiging question. I'm with rachylou on the whole tribalism idea. I have been thinking myself about the all but disappearance of subcultures and 'clubs' in highschool recently, at least here in Belgium, and I think it connects to this. I mean you used to have goths and nerds and skaters etc, with distinct tastes in music, clothes etc. Nowadays everyone prides themselves on their eclectic playlists but at the end of the day I think I read that over 99% of all music listened to on spotify comes from less than 1% of the catalogued artists. So much for global diversity. Bijou is right too that it becomes exceedingly hard to find unique pieces when traveling as the shops everywhere are the same. (i just returned from Denmark, famous for its design, turns out only for globally exported and well-known design). I'm digressing. I wanted to add that I too feel more part of a global tribe, pulling style inspiration from minimalist and sustainable bloggers (and ylf of course!) than any subculture I used to know. It's nice to feel connected to someone when you can't find likeminded people nearby. Yet at the same time the internet and social media are for sure cultivating a mono-look across cultures which may be less dictated by the fashion industry than before but still pervasive. I'm reminded about an article on how coffeebars now look the same everywhere because of certain typical insta-friendly elements (lots of white, natural light, and plants).

Molly Mac

Veteran

Bijou captured my experience in shopping in both France last year and Italy this year. Venice is like the worlds most historic and beautiful high end mall. Max Mara, Gucci, Prada, as well as street wear like Stone Island and suburban mall stores like H&M. Yuck! I found a beautiful dress store in Orvieto with gorgeous, well made, cotton poplin dresses. The workmanship is excellent and the styles unique. I bought two dresses (and would have bought more if I was willing to check a bag). They are unique and special and were not crazy designer prices. This is the type of retail experience that is becoming harder and harder to find, but makes fashion so fun. (Attached pic is me and DH in Venice. I am wearing one of my new dresses. Not conventionally flattering but so easy breezy)

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Gretchen

Veteran

I think there's a perception of individualism that we are all buying into to some degree with the rise of the interwebs and access to information. My google searches are different than yours, so of course I"m looking for and being served different information, and I want that to apply to all aspects of my life. What I don't think most people realize is that all those individual searches are being tracked and used for marketing and sales, which contributes to creating buyer personas. That persona may be localized, or tied to behaviors, or social indicators, and the question is how narrow do you scope the role? Eg what's different about fashion needs for a working mom in Northern California vs a working mom in Alexandria, VA vs Amsterdam? Or are there different needs for a SAHM in Northern California vs one who works out of the house? What are the budget options? To the degree that this persona aligns with you, you perceive it as individualized...but is it really?

I do agree with those who prefer to buy local and support smaller businesses. I would love to do that more often. My personal challenge is aligning my timing for shopping with local business operating hours. If they all had websites I could order from at midnight, I'd love to (I bet there's a company idea in there somewhere...)

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

You know where else you can find unique pieces? The thrift store! (ducks and runs away )

kkards

Veteran

i'm intrigued by this idea of fashion individualism as a trend....so i goggled it....and what was one of the 1st articles that came up....this one from 1983 about how Norma Kamali was bringing individualism to fashion...added bonus: read her predictions of the future....

https://www.nytimes.com/1983/0.....alism.html

Tammyb

When I read your subject line, my brain jumped to something else — Individualism as recession proof for the consumer. My experience during the last recession in 2008-ish was that I decided to spend my clothing budget on accessories to refresh my looks. I think individualism is a tool for consumers more than for retailers.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Kkards, that piece on Norma Kamali is fascinating. I still have one of the Kamalikulture dresses Angie featured on the blog several years ago!

I agree with those who say fashion is following vs. leading in this area, or maybe it's more like: "it's all fashion, all the time." Small - f fashion as opposed to Fashion. Small-f fashion being the direction of the zeitgeist -- increasingly global, as others pointed out.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I'm back in to say that there isn't a hint of recession in Seattle. Property prices and new construction are through the roof and everything is expensive. Amazon's head office is here and taking over the world. There's also FB, Google, Apple. And Boeing, Microsoft, Starbucks.....the list goes on.

Column

Veteran

So to summarize:

Individualism IS a sales strategy in the negative: Don`t alienate anyone (Angie`s “safe” observation) to keep as many buyers coming in as possible. BUT it is also largely marketing: How “individual” can global mass production really be? That said, if consumers take the aesthetic to heart, they can beat the system by doing their own thing.

On the recession comments: Could this be proof that the U.S. really does have two separate economies operating simultaneously?

rachylou

Veteran

Re two separate economies: I’d say yes, but it’s a misnomer of a phrase IMO. I think we use the wrong indicators for economic health and, also, that there’s a new economic reality that hasn’t caught up with everyone yet, but it will.

In my area, we have astronomic property prices and construction. That sounds like business is booming... except there’s five engineers per condo to make that mortgage/rent, lots of empty units, and all the people who used to be in the buildings that got torn down now living on the street and charging their cell phones from the outdoor outlets on those new buildings.

Sal

Veteran

I have been thinking about this Column. While you can sort of buy anything or wear anything I do find shopping quite homogeneous. Looks still seem to take over - eg floral midi dresses at the moment (which I like). But if you want something that is not so popular (bootcut jeans in my instance) can I find any - no!!

I do think many shops have broadened their target market a little - to attract new customers. It can feel a bit haphazard though.

I don't envy clothing retailers - have to be nimble to make a profit at the moment. Sure some are doing well but there are lots that are struggling.

Helena

Veteran

"Individualism IS NOT an H&M or Zara stuffed full of new looks twice a week just to cater to the whims of the 25-30 year old social media addict."

Lisa nailed it with the quote above. A million choices does not mean individualism, if we are all being shunted down the exact same consumption pipeline.

To me, the individualism piece must by definition be driven by the individual ... so I agree with those saying retail and fashion are trying to react to this trend rather than drive it ... and most individuals, truth be told, will choose to dress similarly to their 'tribe' I think ... it's just that the matter is more and more one of choice rather than being forced. So there is a certain paradox at work ...

Individualism = choice but most humans, but virtue of our human-ness, will choose to fit in, at least to some extent. If that makes any sense!

Gaylene

Veteran

Interesting discussion here, but I’m still not convinced by the idea that retail and fashion are reacting instead of driving the so-called trend.

Consumerism has intentional underpinnings and one of the ways to make it more appealing to “independent” thinkers is to re-package the concept as “individualism” by presenting “choices” and adopting “an appreciation of diversity”. In other words, the pitch is that I am a special, unique person whose product choices ought to reflect my individuality. Corporations and retailers focus on the "uniqueness” of their offerings while I, as a consumer, are encouraged to find the “right” products and brands to establish my “individualism”. At the same time, though, I’m expected to ignore—or at least identify with—others who are buying identical items for similar reasons. My sense of self (I’m an Apple user; I drink Coke, not Pepsi; I shop “independent” designers ) becomes intertwined with specific brands/communities/commodities. Instead of reining in my spending, I’m encouraged to discard and consume all in the name of helping me express and refine my “individualism”

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Gaylene, I agree that the idea of "individualism" is part of what drives consumption -- which means that "individualism" as a mantra will hardly make buyers recession-proof.

I still don't think it is the fashion industry per se (or on its own) driving this. It's capitalism as a whole. Fashion being part of the big machine and for the most part reflecting rather than initiating substantive cultural shifts. (There are probably some exceptions to this -- where design drives a shift in the zeitgeist.)

Still...beyond or underneath the restless consumption that capitalism breeds in most of us, there's still that desire for change. For the new. For something fresh. And that's part of what drives fashion as an industry or maybe makes it possible. That human need for something new and interesting to rest the eye upon. Some people feel that urge more strongly than others, I suspect. But I also think it pre-dates our economic system. It's there in traditional cultures, too. Quilters might adopt a traditional pattern -- but change it up to make it their own.

rachylou

Veteran

I shall have a think about it, Gaylene. Marketing surely is about driving business. And capturing markets. But I’m not sure how well they’re doing, in terms of product creation and messaging. I think they’re doing more with more direct, yet secretive, manipulation. Showing you this link but not that one. Buying out the competitors. Drafting laws.

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