Help Me Solve a Mystery... - YouLookFab Forum

I found this Carmen Marc Valvo Dress/Coat piece at a thrift store, a couple of years ago. It is really stunning - it has soutache trim all over, buttons covered in matching fabric all up the front, and on the sleeves. It is 100% wool, but miraculously, it does not make me immediately itch, although the longer I wear it, the more I am aware of little prickles. This dress/coat/thing is unlined. I don't think there was ever a lining, because it looks finished on the inside. Usually when I see linings taken out of things, there are fabric remnants, pieces of interfacing, or raw-looking seams. It has large, sculpted shoulder pads - but they are not 1980's linebacker power shoulders.

This piece has a Spanish or Moroccan vibe, to my eye, but also a little bit steampunk, because the bottom half has a swinging movement to it.

I think this is from the 1990s, but maybe early 2000s? I'm not sure. I have googled this garment, and could not find anything. I went to the CMV site, and sent a message inquiring, but never got a response.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this, or have a general idea of what year it was made?

At some point when I have some time to play with my closet, I'm going to do a style lab here.

Some of the terms I've searched: embroidery, Spanish, soutache, and passementerie. If you can think of any other words to describe this sort of work, please let me know!

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6 years ago

kkards

Veteran

actually it feels very late 1980's early 1990's to me...I remember having dresses like this when I was still wearing formal business to work. the other thing that leads me to this dating is the Made in Hong Kong instead of Made in China.

Anonymous

Beautiful garment.

MsMaven

I agree with kkards--late 80s, more likely early 90s. I'm trying to think of a specific example from that era--maybe it will come to me later.

Suz

(website)

Late 80s for sure. It's a beautiful dress!

Ginger

Yes, 1980s. Other search terms are braiding, braidwork, cording. It's technically not soutache, since soutache is actually two cords wrapped side by side. That looks like a single round cord. Really beautiful!

Google shows Carmen Marc Valvo is an American designer who started his company in 1989. That might be right because I had a pink skirt suit with the same passementerie pattern on it that I wore to my nephew's wedding in the 1990s.
It is a fabulous find in both color, embellishment and style- a classic! great job!
I am sure if you wear silk undergarments (eg slip, cami) it might take care of wool induced "prickles" as you call them.

Mary Beth (formerly LBD)

Thank you for the feedback, everyone! I really appreciate it!

Efbgen, I had that same date - 1989 - as the start of CMV.
Ginger, I didn't realize that about soutache, I always assumed it was just braiding or embroidery done in that very specific style.

I remembered though, as everyone was saying 1980s, there did seem to be a lot of soutache, braiding, cording, passementerie, etc. 1988-1990. I had a Spanish-looking hat with trim, and a white button-down blouse that had the same. I think Paula Abdul had something to do with making the style popular.

Camille

Member

That me reminded Years ABBA ! Beauty

The Cat

Late 80s or early 90s. What a beautiful dress--and in wool! Love the colour and the details (the buttons and the embroidery).

tulle

As others have said, late '80s, early '90s. These long dresses with references to Victorian detailing (soutache braid, princess seams, often velvet or lace collars, high necklines and covered buttons) were part of the trend toward romantic, formal, and feminine looks, with the strong, padded shoulders bringing them into the 20th century. Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley often showed them on models with Gibson-girl style messy buns and tall lace-up or riding boots. (So the Steampunk connection works, I think.) Have you tried it as a coat yet? I love that idea! Worn open over narrow pants and a close-fitting turtleneck, maybe? To re-purpose a beautiful vintage find this way seems to bump it up to the 21st century. You may create a new kind of suit. Have fun with it!

krishnidoux

I have items with the same embroidery motif - handed over from my mom - and dating from the 1970's. These embroidery motifs appear on Moroccan traditional wear. This looks a lot like a woman's djellaba, including the side slits, except the waist is curved, which, along with the sleeves buttons, gives it its Victorian steampunk vibe you picked up on. The designer certainly got inspird by women's djellabas. I couldn't tell you when this exact piece was made though.

Krishnidoux is right about the pattern resembling Moroccan embroidery, and the side slits being typical of djellabas and other Middle Eastern garments, but the shoulders show that this is definitely a designer's interpretation from the eighties. In the '70s, shoulders were very narrow and unstructured. Moroccan and other ethnic clothes (which also inspired a lot of 19th century fashion) were popular 1970s imports, and worn as is.

Mainelady

Gorgeous dress!

Runcarla

What a find. I agree late 1980's. I had something similar - cobalt blue wool - from that time.

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