I can so relate to this post, Suz. You've almost perfectly expressed my feelings last year when I looked at my (partially) re-built wardrobe and had an identity crisis. While I could articulate what I didn't like (boho, overly drapey EF, girly...), I couldn't figure what words would describe my style. I envied the ladies on the forum who seemed to know the words to describe their style and the places they liked to shop.

When I pulled out the wardrobe items that gave me the greatest "happiness quotient" (Jayne, so very grateful for that phrase!), it was easier to figure out what they didn't represent rather than what they did. But I figured that, knowing what I didn't like, was at least a start. I could walk by items that were very casual, overly loose fitting, girly, boho and so on. I guess you can say I found what I liked by learning what I didn't like.

I also tried to go into different types of shops, especially independent ones, just to try stuff on, especially things that were quite different than what I currently had in my wardrobe. Some were truly dreadful, many made me feel like an idiot, but, every now and again, I'd find something that made me go "hmm, not bad". And, occasionally, an item even came home with me. I found it was easier to experiment in B&M stores than in online or thrift shops. And the young sales staff had such a good time "dressing an older lady"; it must have provided them with some good stories!

Instead of using two or three words, it's easier for me to think of my insights as wardrobe principles:

I want a smaller, functional wardrobe that consists of clothes that I can put on and then forget about while I get on with my day. I don't like to fuss to get something to look right.

I'm OK with wearing the same outfit over and over again if it looks good on me and fits the situation. I do care about my image and won't deliberately choose unflattering looks.

I like items that are a bit unusual or interesting (love those Fluevog's), but they have to work with more basic items to make me feel comfortable. I'm a minimalist, not a maximalist.

More expensive clothing tends to suit me better-- the colors and cuts are more flattering. I set a high standard for an inexpensive item, instead of thinking "oh, it doesn't matter if it's not that great because it's only a few dollars".

I like wearing clothing that makes me look like a grown-up. (Thank you, Angie, for that one!) For me, age-appropriate means if it looks cute and trendy on a 20-year-old, it probably means I ought to give it a pass. I'd give it my Parisian test--"Would I feel comfortable wearing it in Paris?" or my newer Karen test-- "Would Karen wear this?"

I'll choose texture over color to make an outfit interesting. While I love MaryK's fierce use of color, I'm happier to stick to neutrals for most of my wardrobe. But she has taught me that, especially in my casual wardrobe, it's color that can make an outfit sing. So this summer, I wore my cobalt skirt with an orange top and a turquoise cros-body bag--and loved it. But, for most of the year, I'll stick to texture with color and pattern in low doses.

I could go on, but you probably get the drift. Maybe you're at the point where you can just sit down and articulate your wardrobe principles? For me, it worked.

Suz, I just skimmed the posts, but can relate in that I like that somewhat architectural, avant garge look but can't afford it either. Nor do I put it into action in my own wardrobe much, although I admire it.
Sounds funny, but Simply Vera Wang (a cheaper line for Kohl's and the like) has this kind of slant and it's way more affordable than Rick Owens or even Allsaints. She does color, too. I agree with BCBG as another alternative.

too soft? http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStor.....rdigan.jsp
http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStor.....rdigan.jsp
http://www.kohls.com/kohlsStor.....t+Vest.jsp

Suz - I'm afraid I don't have any concrete advice to give you but wanted to let you know I think this is a very exciting moment in your style. You're looking to really hone in on it and I know when you get the mix you're looking for, it's gonna ROCK!

I like the idea of Theory or Helmut Lang for your edgier, avant-garde pieces. There's still some structure there which you (and I for that matter) enjoy but interesting details, edges and draping that could really take your classic pieces and boost them up a notch. I would love to see you add some blood red or cobalt blue here or there as well.

I'm going to be watching this thread and look forward to seeing where you go...

Ah, I should have read first--I see Inge already came through with one of her super helpful researched responses

This is a fab thread, Suz. As usual, you've articulated your problem/conundrum beautifully, making it easy for everyone to respond in specific and thoughtful ways.
There are so many great words of advice here. I've read each response and learned something from each one.

So much of what you're struggling with applies to many of us, it seems. Myself included. The advice (given by Angie and others) to add a few stand-out pieces to your wardrobe and let them lead the way in your style evolution is worth following. I'm aiming for a more "arty," modern, grown-up look as well and have been helped immensely by a few items that are helping me evolve stylistically. Specifically:

*Vince Camuto Hannah sandal
*Vince Camuto midi tube skirt
*Wyatt sleeveless drape top

I'm wearing all three items together in Photo #1, but I've also worn each item separately in lots of different outfits over the past three months (see the Wyatt top with flats and black pants in #2)...and the result is the feeling that I'm moving toward the look I want.

Una's advice about investing in a Theory jacket is worth heeding. I did this last year and have found it to be a timeless and super useful piece that always works.

As for the preponderance of black out there, maybe you'll have some luck finding some other options since colors like burgundy, deep teal, and ink blue are so popular this season.

I'm so with you on this journey. I totally get everything you're struggling with and toward.

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This has been a very enlightening thread!

Suz, do you play on team accessory? If you wear earrings, or if you like scarves or necklaces, you could boost up a nicely fitting, classic outfit with some interesting and arty accessories, while you work toward your long term plan of including pieces of clothing with sculptural lines.

I don't have any advice to add, but wish you luck in your style journey. I'm so impressed at those who can articulate their "style". I have no idea what mine is or how to get one. I do think Pinterest is a great idea, though. It's like an online bulletin board where you can pin up all of those fab outfits you just love. Then, maybe you can see a trend or where you want to go with your style.

Thank you all so much - you are all so very helpful! I am feeling much more hopeful and practically prepared for this new style transition.

Zap, Shannon - I so appreciate your cheering! You both look amazing every time I see you so your words carry weight! Same for you, Jem!

Mo - I do sense that you are tending in this direction as well. We don't have Kohl's in Canada but I liked that sweater you linked to. And I do get to the US sometimes, so I can certainly check it out. Would like to try something from the line on for fit before ordering online.

Nancy, I have had my eye on your three pieces ever since you bought them and have had the skirt in my shopping cart numerous times! I am going to pull the trigger on one of those for sure. What colour do you think would be smart? I am thinking ink blue is practical for me but I might like the pink or the cobalt, too.

Gaylene, you have articulated EXACTLY what I wanted to say. I mean it...exactly. The only alteration I would make is to say that I probably like a bit more colour (especially, as you note, for spring/summer) BUT I think the more colour the item has, perhaps the more simple the lines should be for me to feel okay in it. That is just a little theory I am playing with right this minute. Hmmmm. THANK YOU for putting your principles into words!

Kiki, I do wear scarves, etc. in the winter time and can certainly use them for pops of colour, etc. But more and more I am finding that approach a little bit "fussy" for my taste. I would like to wear simpler clothing that nevertheless is very interesting.

Thank you, again, for all your help. Onwards!

Suz, what about adding the Report Marks booties in blue? They would go beautifully with black or gray and would add some edge to your classic/basic pieces, and you can take your time to find the designer clothing that appeals to you.

For cheaper than Helmut Lang and Theory try Kenneth Cole

http://www.kennethcole.com/fam.....p=13183332

Suz, I can't help you here as you know I am just starting very slowly to take the first steps towards fashion. But this thread is going to be a big inspiration for me in future.

Suz, I'm only popping in briefly, but wanted to chime in as I'm feeling some similar pulls. Some of my clothing is feeling too fussy to me these days, and I find myself refining things more. I totally understand some of your remarks about "arty" (I want to look creative but not with that stereotypical crazy poncho art teacher style), and the disappointment you had with that skirt. I made some similar missteps, where items were *different* and that appealed to me, but a more streamlined version of *different* is appealing to me now. And I don't want to dress in black every day, as much as I admire Stephanie/Style Odyssey (the pic you posted). I'm weighing all these things with my "rock and roll sophisticate" style I'm working on cultivating, and i'm not sure where it will all end up, but I know it's changing and I'm actually kind of excited about it.

I'm wearing fewer accessories at a time and gravitating toward cleaner looks but with some edge. Maybe part of it is seasonal, and I'll layer with abandon as the weather cools, but I'm definitely feeling like my style evolution is still very much on the move.

I'm laughing at all the mentions of Theory -- my first Theory jacket was like a gateway drug! I now have a couple of tops, a pair of skinnies, and four Theory jackets!

I'll be looking forward to following your journey.

Suz, you really did your introspective soul-searching and I think you are so in touch with yourself, whether you feel you are or not! I love your rubric and while I can't offer any websites or designers at the moment, I just want to say that I so admire your style and have copied you in the past. So, I am going to observe from the corner and hope I learn through you! ETA: I am so saving this thread for all its useful and wise information. Did Una say what color her Theory jacket is? The links provided by everyone look so promising.

Suz, scroll through some of these Helmut Lang items and see if they appeal: http://www.shopbop.com/helmut-.....23.htm?all

I can imagine them being paired with funky shoes and classic basics.

ETA: I forgot to mention that these items are priced in the nosebleed range, so use the photos inspirationally. I'm pretty sure things with the same vibe can be found at lower price points.

Suz,
You've done a great job articulating what you're trying to accomplish, and I think that's half the battle. I don't have much to add to the excellent advice here, but I will be following closely, because I, too, would like to inject some drama and bold touches into my wardrobe while avoiding the all-black trap.
Thanks for blazing the trail!

No advice, just a fellow Canadian commiserating with the troubles associated with ordering from the US:( Some other stores to try, the Bay sometimes has a variety of brands and they have good sales. The Laura store is also worth checking, it is hit and miss I find but they do have good quality clothing. Small boutiques and upscale consignment stores often have clothing not found in larger shops. Good luck!!

Suz, once I have a better internet connection, I am DEFINITELY coming back to this thread for further reading. It's a gold mine. Thanks for starting it! I don't have any wisdom to add, but am so inspired by your earnest and optimistic introspection!

more later...

Suz, I love this soul-searching thread of yours! You are such an articulate and thoughtful writer. Can't wait to see where your style journey takes you!

Lilith? No idea where to buy in US or Canada, but the stuff I see on Ebay is so striking.
I think certain pieces would bridge with the retro part of your style (although some are way too lagenlook, and it may run large?)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lilith.....337b50f3f6

Suz, I can relate too because I feel that I am constantly going through a style evolution for the last 2 years. I think you are doing much better than me though because I cannot even articulate what I like and what my rubric or style is
I cannot help you on the designer angle as I am pretty illiterate on that topic. As for the edgier and more architectural pieces I can tell you what I do. I am drawn to more interesting coats, jackets and footwear. I usually keep my bottoms and tops more or less simple so they are easier to layer. I found this works for me. It does not mean I don't make exceptions (jumbo polka dot skirt anyone?) but this is what happens 80% of the time. This way I can keep my wardrobe relatively small and be able to mix and match almost everything in it.
Thank you for sharing your style musings with us: i is very educational and thought provoking!

Oh wow Suz... I love your thread. I'm not in the same position as you because I am just restarting from scratch on my style journey but I have the same type of style questions that you've asked here. Mainly how to add more of a avant garde edge to my wardrobe without staying all black... or not feeling like myself. I love avant garde/urban pieces (Angie's post on mixing fashion forward pieces with classics was fantastic and both outfits were amazing in my eyes) but I also really love vintage (specifically 70s). How to marry all the style looks I love? Wow I will definitely be following your style journey closely. I can't wait to see how you incorporate these types of pieces into your wardrobe.

April, those prices really did give ma a moment's pause! Yikes. I am willing to invest..but not able to invest on quite THAT level. But inspiration is inspiration! Thank you!

And thanks again to everyone else who has chimed in here. I hope I have not forgotten too many people in the shuffle.

Sveta, that is a great strategy. I actually took back a bat sleeve top that Angie gave the nod on last year precisely for that reason. I felt it wouldn't play nicely with the other things because I couldn't easily layer over or under it. I think perhaps in summer more dramatic tops are easier to work with because you don't need to or even want to layer (at least I don't, with no air conditioning in my life). Perhaps that is something I am missing this summer, for that reason. My tops are very simple and that is good, but in fall/winter I have interesting jackets to layer over them.....
hmmmm

Hi Suz --

You said:

>My next problem would be how on earth could I create a cohesive look together with the retro elements I also enjoy, if I am drawn to this kind of style? I'm feeling sartorially confused! How do I mix my retro funky whimsical Fluevogs or Docs with something like this?

[snip]

>Any other ideas you might have about this. Including the idea that I am nuts and should just leave well enough alone.

Woman, I am going with "you are nuts and should just leave well enough alone" because I think your current style is very close to where you say you want to be!

Now of course I don't mean stop everything etc.

In fact I think you are just having trouble *finding* what you want -- wish I could help more with that -- and maybe you just need to play around with current items and see which ones combine into outfits that feel "right" and which ones are missing something (but your task is to ID the something).

Does that make sense?

I think about the fancy Banff outfit you wore with the borrowed jacket, which was very sleek and feminine and dramatic because it was sophisticated. You felt good in that, yes? And then I have vaguer recollections of more casual (but not "sporty" styles) involving jeans and jackets and boots and booties -- anything missing there?

When you have your 90-100% outfits identified you'll be able to see where there's overlap in the rubric and where things clump. Maybe you'll see you like A + B or B + D, but never A + D. And you may have a core style with minor styles as satellites around that core.

BTW, I admit in reading your OP I thought of Nancylee's new pieces...seems like they would integrate nicely into your current wardrobe. Hang in there and as others have said, look look look. And don't settle for black. It's tedious, but you will get there!

Suz, don't know if you have ever browsed through this site for inspiration...some pretty interesting stuff!

http://www.shonmodern.com/shop/

Enjoy!

OK, I'm soooo late to the party, and I think most of what I might have suggested has been covered- Helmut Lang did a smattering of color recently. Bordeaux (sold at Antrho) as well as Heather by Bordeaux. Ooh, I was also entranced by a lot a saw from Max Studio the other day not ALL of it, but some pieces struck me as a little Helmut Lang-ish: http://www.maxstudio.com/women/dresses.

Hm, maybe also Karen Millen? Modern cuts and uses a good amt. of color:
http://us.karenmillen.com/Sale.....+Outerwear

Or Ted Baker?
http://www.tedbaker-london.com.....ewarrivals

Suz, I believe the Helmut Lang/Rick Owens/Alexander Wang style you see yourself gravitating towards is actually trending and will trickle down (hopefully quickly) to lower retail price points soon. Just look at how asymmetrical clothing has taken off. Keep an eye out at Zara and H&M if you just want to experiment. Or, as Angie suggests, invest in a few pieces if you know you are ready to go there. There is a ton of stuff at Zara following the embellishment and ladylike direction but there are also pieces in the aforementioned style.

http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs.....APED%20TOP
http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs.....20CARDIGAN
http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs.....M%20JACKET
http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs.....DIO%20COAT

Eek everything's black that I've linked to. I think black can work if worn with white, cream, & other colors. I love black, it might not love me but I am going to try to make it work this a/w even if I fail.

Another thought -- I don't feel it's necessary, for myself at least, to stick to a definitive style or to even develop a style rubric. I want to remain constantly open to change and to evolve my style or to devolve it if I need a break from fashion.

Hi Suz,

I'm quickly logging in to second (third) Angie and Una's comments about Theory. It's a terrific brand with very good quality fabrics, sleek cuts and strong, simple lines. Once you have tried on one of their blazers you immediately feel and see the difference in fit (and in how you feel wearing their stuff:-) I was amazed by that.

Also: I think I forgot to mention yoox.com.
They sell Theory and many other higher end brands at reduced prices. Some are still expensive, but check the website regularly, there are good deals to be found there.

Suz, I'm going to suggest keeping an eye on Neiman Marcus Last Call for things like Helmut Lang pieces. They deeply discount, and then they often take an additional percentage off during sales.

A word of caution, however: go in with a strong idea of what you're looking for. Otherwise, it's too easy to get swayed by the discounts.

You are all so amazing! Thank you so much for your encouragement and your thoughts. I am checking out the links like mad...thanks to all for suggestions!!

Sheila, a special shout-out to you because I do LOVE Kaliyana...at least some of it....but alas. I shopped there and even when I weighed more, there was almost nothing in the store that fit. I am too small for the clothes. ;-( Still, the next time I am in Ottawa I will check it out again. There is always a small chance that something will work.

Fern, I will continue to check Lilith. I really like your word "lagenlook." I am not completely sure what it means but I think I get the gist! I saw some Lilith pieces on a different site and they weren't at all like the beautiful skirt you linked to...more hippie-ish, boho.

Inge, I will definitely check out Theory. I am sure it is available in Toronto at Holt's and probably elsewhere, too.

Vix....I think you are offering real wisdom here. I have been considering exactly what you suggest. I have been thinking...what if, out of my own closet, what is currently there...I tried to put together one small capsule that made outfits that all feel "right." I could then extrapolate from there. What IS it that makes these outfits feel right?

It's not ALWAYS a dramatic, avant-garde kind of cut. You are absolutely right that some of my jeans outfits, very simple - jeans, a good (but fairly classic) jacket, a simple top, even a T - and boots or booties - are my absolute faves. I will feel perfectly perfectly happy in such an outift. What is it about ONE jeans and jacket outfit that feels perfect while another one does not? This is the question I need to answer for myself.

Oh, I'm glad Inge mentioned yoox. I was just about to recommend you spend some time perusing that site. Here's just one coat I saw on there that I fell in love with...it would look GREAT on you! (Or something like it--it's been a long time since it was listed for sale and I added the pic to my style file)

Keep updating us on this. I find it very relatable. It's maybe not so hard to improve to a level of general acceptability, but to fine-tune to attain toward a vague ideal is the challenge.

(ETA the designer is Balmain)

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