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Help me diagnose my trouser fit issues? (AKA my one and only pair)

Diana

Veteran

Kirti's post made me realize that I think I need remedial Trousers 101 lessons too! Here is my one and only pair of trousers for your consideration. They are a poly blend, and only get worn for things like interviews. Black with pinstripes. I'd like to experiment with wearing trousers more, but I've never really liked these. So, trouser experts - what is wrong with the fit on these (or is it just the style that's not feeling right?), and if you were me, what style would you be looking for?

Not styled at all, I just put on a tight cami so you could see the trouser details, and some shoes of approximately the right height for the length.

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Dressing

20 replies

Latest reply was from ManidipaM

Anonymous

Rigjt off the bat I see my predicament, some degree of whiskering. I will give you my take, but I know I will not be in the money. For pear shaped lasses, like us, it is nearly impossible to wear pants or narrow skirts, without having some whiskering at the crotch. The only way to avoid that is to go way up in size, which would only lead to lot more fabric floating around, creating what I like to call "diaper butt". Also, the last thing that works for me, is to have a gazillion yards of fabric around my bum. That makes me look much heavier than I really am. What I do, in my own case, is to reach a compromise between whiskering and "diaper butt" and select a size that is somewhat loose yet is is still "butt defining". I am 100% in the figure flattery over look team, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

I am really interested in what others will say. Thanks for asking this question.

Anonymous

I need to sign up for this class too! I just gave away my only pair of trousers in the swap, but another pair came back to me in the care package. Maybe I'll start with jeans.

These look pretty close to me, did you have the waist taken in at all? Maybe one of the new cuts out there will be easier to fit on your frame. I'd be pretty happy if I had a pair that fit me this well, though!

Kirti

(website)

Veteran

I don't know much about trouser fit, but these look like a decent flt to me! I will be watching this space for everyone's comments.

April

Veteran

Diana, these look snug enough in the back that you could go up a size without getting the dreaded "diaper butt."

These are fitting you more like jeans are supposed to fit, but dress pants like these need more room. Does that make sense? Dress pants should skim your backside, but then should drop away from your thigh somewhat. Not so loose that you're drowning in fabric, but not snug like jeans.

If I'm making it sound like it's going to be a challenge to find the right pair, that's because it probably is. Flattering dress pants are not easy to find. My advice is, once you find a brand and cut that fits you correctly, buy at least two pairs.

Anonymous

Also, my trick for pants is to buy them loose enough that they the skim the top portion of my bum but do not hug the entire area as jeans do. In conclusion, these are pretty close but no cigar. I still would wear them.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

What Zap and April say makes perfect sense.

These trousers have brilliant potential! You just needed a size up to minimize the pulling in the crotch, front pocket and back thigh. A waist alteration is probably in order on the larger size.

So as these trousers fit now - I vote too snug. Size up. Jeans and leans on the other hand can fit a little tighter.

Diana

Veteran

Thanks, ladies! This is already super helpful. April and Zap, it makes sense when you say that they should fit differently than jeans. I know how to fit jeans, but am really clueless when it comes to trousers!

Claire, these have not been altered at all.

I think perhaps it's also just the wide leg style that I'm not crazy about... I'd love some slimmer fitting trousers like Angie's theory ones.

ETA: Angie, just saw your post. What is your take on belts and trousers? Is it like jeans, where if the loops are showing, they should be filled? A belt would also fix any gaping waistband issues on a larger size, right?

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Diana, here's my post on how to fit dress pants:

http://youlookfab.com/2010/03/.....ess-pants/

I do err on the side of "looser is better" as long as the crotchpoint does not sag too much (which can happen when you go up a size and have curvy thighs).

Belts are up to you! No rules! Personally, I like to see exposed belt loops filled - and filled ALL THE WAY. I do not prefer a skinny belt threaded through wide loops for example, as much as a wide belt threaded through wide loops.

A belt will help shape a too big waistband, but not on a waistband that's VERY big. Then the whole effect just looks untidy - too much bunching. I say that - but do thread a belt through my enormous BF jeans and it looks untidy. But jeans are different

Gaylene

Veteran

IMO, the problem is that many of us want our trousers to fit like our jeans. To further complicate matters, manufacturers have added stretch to traditional trouser fabrics, making it easier to squeeze into smaller sizes. The result is wrinkles and whiskers on the thigh area for many women. I also think that, since fashion has dictated a tighter fit for the past decade or so, many women are just not used to wearing a looser-fitting pant and equate extra fabric around the thigh area with the garment being too big.

Since trousers are an adapted mens-wear look, I think they look better if they fit closely around the hips, but more loosely in the thigh area so the pant falls in a straight line to the floor. This fit feels very different than a jeans fit which usually cups in under the butt and fits tightly on the thigh. To avoid the "diaper butt" syndrome with this extra fabric, it is vital that the crotch seam in a trouser fits correctly; if it droops, you'll get that saggy look in the back. The cure is not to downsize, but to have the tailor raise the crotch seam. Adjusting the crotch seam and the waistband can also improve the fit in the front so that the fabric doesn't pull in under the tummy.

A well-fitting trouser can be a very slimming look, even on a pear-shape figure as long as the fabric can fall in a straight line from the upper hip. The reality, however, is that most pear-shaped women probably need to buy the larger size and have the pant adjusted by a good tailor.

Angie has some good tips in this post: http://youlookfab.com/2010/03/.....ess-pants/

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I think we posted at the same time, Gaylene

Diana

Veteran

Thank you, Angie and Gaylene. I had not seen that post before - lots of very helpful tips! I'll be sure to look for something that drapes rather than cups the hips and thighs.

Angie, one more question. Do you think this type of wide-leg classic trouser style is still current or do you prefer a straighter leg fit like your Theories? I do feel a little awkward in these with all the loose fabric around the lower legs, but then again I have not worn wider legged pants for a long time. (I got rid of all my wide-leg and trouser jeans since I was never wearing them).

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Diana, ALL trouser silhouettes are so on trend. TWO wider leg trouser styles have just found a home in my wardrobe, although I am a tapered trouser leg gal at heart.

Perhaps you missed this post:

http://youlookfab.com/welookfa.....tyle-rules

Jenava

(website)

Veteran

If I were you, I'd avoid these flaps on the back pockets and also look for a different front pocket style...with this style of front pocket I always have them sewn down because for curvy hips they gape.

KathyL

Veteran

I agree with Jenava about the pockets. I try to avoid flap pockets in the back and go for slit pockets in the front so they lay flatter. I recently tried express pants, and love both the editors (curvier fit) and the columnist (straighter fit).

Diana

Veteran

Angie, I'm looking forward to seeing how you style your wide leg trousers!

Jenava and Kathy, agree about the pockets. I do usually sew my side entry front pockets closed - don't know why I never bothered to do that with these. I have a weird love for back flap pockets on jeans, but I agree that they don't really work on trousers.

Jenava

(website)

Veteran

Diana, have you tried the Express Editors? You might find they work really well for you...

Diana

Veteran

Jenava, years ago I had some editors. That was back when we liked our trousers really tight and flared though! I remember not really liking the fabric back then though, but maybe it has improved. I will have to stop by Express and try them on again.

Jenava

(website)

Veteran

Yeah, the fabric isn't GREAT, but there are a couple options. Good luck! At least they aren't expensive!

Kari

Veteran

Diana - I agree with the others that a size up would work better, and that a different pocket style would fight less against your beautiful curves. Back when I could actually find trousers that I liked on my body a few years ago, I enjoyed trousers that had faux-pockets or coin pockets in the front, but avoided the size-slit pockets because they would often open up at an angle and create odd pockets that made me look like I had points at my hips. A flat pocket at the back without a flap was my preference, too.

ManidipaM

Veteran

Diana, you've already had most of the issues analysed in depth here! One last thought I wanted to add, as someone whose waistband *always* gapes in the 'right size' pants (thanks, thighs!) --- a belt will often not solve the gaping of the waistline especially in the back, because (a) unless the loop is dead centre (and unlike jeans, they often aren't on dress pants), the centre seam will often droop down below the belt and then gape in a most awkward fashion and (b) even if there is a centre loop, because dress pants aren't as sturdy a fabric as denim in comparison to the stiffness of the average belt, they often still won't lie entirely flat. The latter *can* be solved by bunching your shirt into the small of the back to fill the gap --- but in that case you need to start with a boxier shirt; doesn't do so well with a tailored pair.