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Have You Done the Fashion Math?

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Diane's post "Team Wear or keep for best" got me started on figuring out how much wear I really can get out of my black dresses, and how much they really cost me. I have four different black dresses, bought between 2008 and February this year, and at very different price points. My shopping philosophy is that the more classic and versatile the garment is, the more I'm willing to spend on it in general. (There are naturally some exceptions to this rule in my wardrobe.)

I did the fashion math in an Evernote sheet so I can keep it handy. The result was interesting: It proved that a cheap dress easily costs as much, or more, as a more expensive one if it is less versatile. My least worn dress is the most expensive one in terms of CPW (Cost Per Wear) even if it only cost me 25% of what I paid for the most expensive one. Please notice that the final numbers are only estimates. The older the garment, the more real the numbers are.

This is very helpful for me when I'm tryingto decide how much I'm willing to spend on something. I think pieces like LBDs or equivalents, classic shirts, blazers, all season trousers, jeans, coats, boots and pencil skirts are worth doing some fashion math on. Have you tried this, and if you have, what did you find out? What are your most worn pieces?

Shopping

36 replies

Latest reply was from anne

lyn*

(website)

Veteran

I was surprised how much use I got out of my basic pieces - a striped top, a black flare skirt, and a dotty top are the top 3 this season for clothes - they are pennies per CPW now.

I am sad that the pieces I love the most with tons of plans for, I never wear as often as I can. They are usually more memorable, so I wear them at most once a week There are only 52 weeks in a year, even if I wear it every week, that's only 52 chances to wear it! SO SAD!

DonnaF

Veteran

I am just starting to track my wear so I don't know if hunches are truly grounded in reality. I have a feeling that when I buy something that is *too* classic, a part of me rebels and doesn't want to wear it because I also find it boring. My black skirt and gray blazer don't get worn all that much unless I force myself to wear them. I wear my okay white shirt more often than the really nice one that I seem to want to *save*; I think the same thing would happen if I had *nicer* things. I tend to reach for my more memorable, quirkier items much more often.

I dunno. I think I've figured out that thrifting and shopping at Ross for me yields more misses than hits. But since I still have problems in predicting versatility and frequency of wear, I think I need to avoid higher price points for the time being. I agree with you in principle, though.

Mo

(website)

Veteran

I seem to be all over the place with this. But as a rule, my most expensive things get worn less. I don't know if I subconsciously consider them more precious, but my over $100 items have all been worn less than a dozen times. My $8 'paper bag' olive green dress from Ross saw a dozen wears its first summer. so much that I ripped the back seam, but paid for repair asap, because it was totally worth it. My better quality, higher priced dresses see rare wear.
Don't know what that says about me.

Liz A.

Veteran

I've been meaning to do this! I'm such an Excel junkie.

jayne

Veteran

i do lots of fashion math but actually avoid cost per wear because it can make me go for the cheaper item, which is MY bad habit from upbringing.

But I did my math on just wear for the spring season, and figured that all my spring items will be worn around 10 times (this is average) before the end of summer. And a few dresses I mark as summer only, will only get worn 3-4 times on average. So that means either dresses need to last for more than one summer or cheaper. I will go for the idea of mulitple seasons.

I don't feel any strong urge to wear things more than 10 times a season though. My culture frowns on showing up in the same clothes within a two week period and I haven't gotten over that even after many years here. So although I can manage to reuse slacks within 2 weeks, you won't see me in the same top. My wardrobe for tops needs to handle that 'rule' and be big enough.

I still have kept my core wardrobe for spring at work to 35 pieces, including outdoor coats (a whopping 7 coats!- I like the variety and know these items will be around many years.) Add in the 12 shoes and that is about 50 pieces. Luckily almost all is planned for use in summer too with a few trade ins and outs based on warmth factors.

I used to try and use dresses into fall and winter to get down CPW but finally decided I was trying too hard and it didn't make me happy. I can afford to be happy ;9

I guess my biggest problem area is sandals. I LOVE wearing sandals and have a really hard time not buying too many for our very short summer. I am planning the heck out of each sandal consideration and without a sure fire high use rate, a sandal cannot be purchased. Funny though, I need a black one but that is not the sandal that i browse!

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Ingunn, this is so interesting.

It doesn't surprise me (in your case) because you like to base your wardrobe on the classics and accessorize to change up the look. So an expensive version of a classic piece makes so much sense. It will wear better, feel better, and in most cases, last longer. So ultimately the CPW will be lower.

On the whole, I'm similar. So I have been trying to track the items I actually wear. And put my money there.

But it's tricky. Because even with my fairly classics-based fashion persona, I find I can't always predict what I will reach for again and again and again. Sure, jeans are a good bet. Some sweaters. And jackets, too -- but which jackets? What kind/ what colour? I haven't figured that out yet.

Early in my YLF membership I posted a question: How do you predict your wardrobe workhorses? I should go back to that thread, because I'll bet the answers would be illuminating.

I also think this may depend to an extent on whether one feels free to wear the more expensive items one buys.

I don't usually track CPW officially, but I do keep a ballpark sense of how often I wear certain items and I know what they cost and how long I have had them. In my case, my LBD is one of the lowest CPW in my closet -- but then, it would be, since a friend who wasn't wearing it donated it to me! (Even if I had paid for it, it would have been a steal, however. At full price it would have been $170 CD and I calculate I have worn it at least 50 times if not more).

But I've also worn my very inexpensive Breton type sweater at least 50 times.

True, it is a classic as well (something I hadn't really considered until now.) Maybe the trick is to look for the style similarities in the items one wears constantly -- and then put money in that type of item in the future?

jayne

Veteran

Oh, and I am a mixed bag on cheap versus expensive in wear rates. I say it is 50-50. It is less painful to buy a cheap item I don't wear, but the more I concentrate on quality instead of price, the more often I have fails in expensivve items also.

Howeve, my new strategy of buying cheap while trying out a new thing, then buying better later, is really working for me.

If I am satisfied with the low cost item, I don't switch up, but if it bothers me and i want a better choice, then I spend. I did this with cobalt and orange blouses last year and could not be happier. But for my white chinos that I LOVE! I duplicated them in the same H&M cheapo version instead. No need to trade up when the first work so well.

rachylou

Veteran

Hmm. I tend to wear my cheapest things into the ground. They're usually the most current style wise and I feel less protective of them. Then I really really miss them. Or hang on to them past wearability.

jayne

Veteran

Suz! Glad you chimed in. I am so with you on not knowing what will be work horses ---thus, what is worth investing in ! Just today I bought a lime green down jacket that I agonized over buying because I don't know if it is justified in my closet ( i have 6 other spring coats). But I finally did the excel and mapped which outfits I could wear it with, versus the other coats I already have, and it turns out that there was a little hole after all.

However to bring CPW into the picture, I predict that if I wear it 11 times this year (once for each outfit that needs it) and 11 times next year and the year after, it will get down to 50 NOK per wear, which is acceptable to me living here.

Since a jacket should definitely last 3 years, even in style and color trend, I think it was worth buying. But that may be costly for someone else.

The hidden cost in buying anything is the things you NEED in addition to make it work in the wardrobe. How do you calculate that?

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

But Lyn, do you consider those pieces worn out after a year? Or maybe you just have a little too many clothes Just kidding! I agree that more memorable pieces are harder to wear all that often. It is interesting to learn what you refer to as basics. To me, those three pieces are the quintessence of your style. No wonder they got a lot of wear!

DonnaF, I hear you about the classics. But in my point of view, it's not about classics, but about essentials. Jeans, for example, or boots. Or Lyn's flared skirt. Whatever it is that defines your core wardrobe pieces. If it gets a lot of wear, it is safe to spend a little more.

Mo, that sounds funny. Why is that, I wonder? I would guess that you find the more expensive things too precious to wear, even without knowing it. I've had cheap pieces that I've worn to death, too, and vice versa, but in general I'm better at wearing everything these days than I used to be.

Liz, it's worth a few minutes to do this. you might get surprised.

jayne

Veteran

Oh Donna, I hate that feeling of having to force myself to wear something. Even if it looks good, I feel icky all day and then I dislike the item even more. I may not be an emotional shopper, but I am an emotional wearer!

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Jayne, I find what you say about being frowned upon when wearing the same clothes too often in American culture very enlightening. I will not deny that I'm puzzled by the amount of clothes so many Americans seem to own. Now I understand it better. I don't think this is as prominent in Norway, although you will be noticed if you are too obvious. I remember a teacher or two - ahem.

I think 7 coats is a very reasonable number in our unstable climate. And I definitely agree that many pieces like dresses and jackets should last at least 2-3 seasons. The CPW can get too high, even if the garment is a wardrobe workhorse.

Suz, what an excellent question. I don't know how to predict my wardrobe workhorses either, but I think I've improved since joining YLF. I've predicted my Boss LBD to last for five years, and with an average wear of 20 times a year, the CPW will be very reasonable. Is this too optimistic? I'm not sure. I might tire of it, or I might gain weight, change proportions and so much more. I do know that my oldest dress has some of the same qualities, and I still love it as much as when I got it.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I am an emotional wearer, too, Jayne.

Also, I consider coats to be a super-important essential in our climate, and adding a colourful coat is a very wise choice. (As Ingunn illustrated with her red coat this year!) We have to wear coats so much of the year. We need choices. I know this is not how we were raised. But it is sanity-saving!!

Jayne, I also really like your strategy of trying things out at a lower price point before deciding whether to invest. That's essentially what I have done with a lot of my wardrobe items, either by buying on consignment or by getting them at H&M or whatever. And I agree, sometimes the cheaper version works out just great -- like my LL Bean Breton sweater, in fact. No need to trade up when the less expensive version works.

And yes -- there are wardrobe holes that we can't even identify until we have the item that turns out to be the unexpected workhorse of the season. Like my fuchsia jacket in the fall -- which I paid all of $20 for. I never was so shocked as when that turned out to be such a workhorse for me.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Rachy, I think this is very common. I do it, too, but lately, I've become better to wear my clothes - all of them - a little more frequently.

Jayne, the hidden costs can be minimized if your wardrobe is coherent, and everything mixes and matches quite easily. That it possible, but it might be constraining and boring to some.

ironkurtin

Veteran

In regard to jeans, I spend money because I wear them to death. Also, no one notices if you wear the same dark denim every day!

In regard to tops and sweaters, the thought of tracking cost per wear makes me depressed. What about Joy Per Wear? Does that count?

Anonymous

Ingunn I'm about to turn in to bed, it's late in Uk and I'm shattered but I'll be back tomorrow AM to reply :). Great post idea.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

See you tomorrow, Diane!

IK, I LOVE the idea of Joy Per Wear. Of course it matters!

Jewell

Veteran

I generally loathe spreadsheets- too much forced use during grad school. However, I still track CPW through the Stylebook app on my phone. It does the calculating automatically and keeps an updated list of my least and most worn wardrobe items. It's been interesting to see which things were smart buys in reality versus which were smart buys in theory.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Jewell, do you have any examples? I'm sure we all have different answers to this, and it is very interesting to hear about it.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I think joy per wear definitely factors in. For me, at least, it's one reason I wear something. I mean, if I get no joy per wear then it does not get worn very often. To say the least.

The things that become workhorses are the very things that give me great joy in wearing. Usually those happen to be the pricier items. But not always.

catgirl

Veteran

I am figuring this out as well, but for me it has less to do with actual price and more with learning what I'll actually wear. I have F21 items I've worn to bits and F21 items I've consigned with tags still on. Same at the other end of the price range.

Today I'm wearing the ChaCha Vente dress which I've worn far more than the more expensive Bailey 44 version. Why? It's an easier color for me (black), it's slightly less fitted, and it's very soft. My current struggle is with recognizing this kind of thing BEFOREHAND, rather than learning the hard way.

So for me it's truly about learning what I'll wear - if I'll love and wear it often or need it for a true purpose, it's worth it at almost any price. And if not, it doesn't matter if it was free.

Great thread, Ingunn!

catgirl

Veteran

Okay, I posted before reading other responses. Now I realize I could have just written "What Suz said.'

ElleH

Veteran

I want to do this. I don't have time right now but I think it is worth doing. I tend to save some of my more expensive items in case they get damaged or stained or worn out or something & because they are the ones that need dry cleaning. It seems silly now I've read this.

Jewell

Veteran

Sure I can share examples. Just took a peek at my style stats in Stylebook and two items in my "Not used in any outfits" list stand out bc I expected to get a lot of wear out of them. One is the black pleated skirt from the Jason Wu for Target line. I remember thinking I had to have it. Another is a beaded scarf that I ran around to half a dozen stores to find- a waste of money and fuel.

A few months ago I rationalized the purchase of a red bow clutch- a totally impractical purchase for a MOTG. The CPW is down to $9.40 after one season of wear- not bad IMO. My cheapie brown boots from Ross were a really smart buy. I've had them since fall of 2011 but have only tracked their CPW since November of 2012. The CPW for the last six months alone is under $2. I have plans to trade up for better quality in a similar style and color now that they've proven their versatility.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Thank you, Jewell, this is really interesting. The real value is probably in the knowledge you've gained for instance about the brown boots. Now you can splurge with confidence next time, knowing that the money will be well spent.

Suz and Una, I definitely agree that this is ultimately about learning what we are going to wear, regardless of price. If there is no joy in wearing an item, it remains unworn in my wardrobe, too (I'm looking at you, silk tunic with abstract pattern). I don't mean that the workhorses always should be pricey, either. At the same time, I must admit that I enjoy the quality of the fabric (put it on a hanger after wear, and the creases are gone by next morning, any odor as well), and the perfect fit (it eased out a few mm's just like the SA promised it would) of my new and expensive LBD. I like it so much that I wan to wear it more often. This time, I got it right.

Elle, you are bringing up another factor that I haven't brought into the equation. Dry cleaning! This is really expensive here, so I avoid it as long as possible. The need for dry cleaning can easily kill the joy of wearing. Last year, I bought a green dress in tencel. It has been dry cleaned twice already, because everything shows. It is no longer a mid price dress, but an expensive one. I handwash almost all silk, and wool fabrics can easily be spot cleaned, but tencel? Terrible. I don't think you are silly at all.

annagybe

(website)

Veteran

Fashion analysis at this level leaves me cold. I only really need to dress for my off days, which are only currently two days a week. To be really cost efficient I'd be wearing the same things all the time, which would bore me to tears.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

Anna, I think of this as merely a tool. If I spend wisely, I can have more fun for my money. I'm sure this applies to you, too? The actual amount of CPW doesn't really matter, but if something sits entirely unworn in my closet, it bugs me. Joy Per Wear is probably an equally good formula to go by. After all - if we don't love an item, it doesn't help that the CPW is low.

Ingunn

(website)

Veteran

It's way beyond bedtime - bye for now

Deborah

Veteran

I admire those of you who do this but I have to confess not giving cpw a lot of thought:). I feel very satisfied that currently there are no real wardrobe orphans in my closet and that everything I have does get worn (some more than others). I'm not a very financial person so it's hard for me to muster the discipline to work it all out.

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