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Gender identity - a study on Chanel & McQueen

Bijou

Veteran

Something to read on the weekend!

I came across this paper regarding the influence that Chanel and Alexander McQueen's designs had on gender identity for women and how their different approaches empowered women and helped change the narrative of the times of the role of women.

The author puts forward the view that Chanel provided freedom and McQueen reclaimed feminine power.

Chanel, in dressing women in styles borrowed from men, she allowed women to take on new roles and be taken seriously. McQueen reclaimed feminine power a view that "women are strong without men". McQueen's design celebrate nature, androgyny and the feminine form.

https://digitalcommons.bucknel.....httpsredir

15 replies

Latest reply was from Stagiaire Fash

rachylou

Veteran

Chanel, I see her impact readily enough, I’m not sure I see McQueen’s though. McQueen designs are brilliant, and certainly Duchess Kate wields them to great effect, but I don’t know about their effect on the life of women. McQueen is very punk to me and I see a broader statement on the state of human society...

rachylou

Veteran

... also, all y’all, I found a second person, besides my brother, who didn’t laugh when I asked ‘what do you think is the role of the humanities in the production of wealth?’

I’m jus’ sayin’... I’m aware of the heaviness of my thoughts on McQueen, lol

Joy

Veteran

Bijou, I want to be able to read this without interruption so I am going to delve in this weekend. It looks very interesting. Can you tell us anything about the writer of this thesis?

Bijou

Veteran

Rachy - Alexander McQueen loved to make statements but also was known for his fun and humour!

Joy - no I don't know anything of the author, it looks as though it is a university paper for an honours degree. I found it interesting at how the author analysed the historical references and contexts of each garment and what it mean to society at the time. What shocked me was the version that was termed 'Boyish Look' by Chanel looks very dressed up and feminine when compared to current fashion.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thanks, Bijou. I look forward to reading this. Coco Chanel was instrumental in making pants fashionable for women - and I am grateful!

Helena

Veteran

Rachy, I would LOVE to be able to sit in a pub with you over a glass of something, and discuss the role of the humanities on the production of wealth!!!! I mean, love it or hate it, the Harry Potter brand is worth $25B and that's not based on STEM

This is interesting - I'm not as familiar with McQueen, but I do agree that Coco Chanel used fashion in a wonderfully feminist way. I remember a scene in Coco Before Chanel; a dressmaker was saying a dress should be made in a blush colour to flatter the skin, and Coco said, but only black brings out the eyes. Obviously a fictional line, but it really captured the idea (I thought) that her clothes were about the individual wearer, rather than the viewer.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

This sounds fascinating, Bijou --- thank you! I can't read the piece now but will come back!

LaPed

Veteran

Ooh, this looks intriguing! What I remember of McQueen is that he was really very interested in subverting assumptions of all sorts, including those about gender. Chanel could be seen as second-wave feminism and McQueen as third-wave, perhaps?

Okay, now I'm tempted to go back and watch Coco Before Chanel and the McQueen documentary back-to-back and see what I think. I remember both being very good.

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Looks interesting! I also am more aware of Chanel's role in liberating women's garments. Am a bigger fan of McQueen's designs though .

Bijou

Veteran

Angie - despite loving dresses, I cannot imagine not wearing pants - so yes, I am very grateful to Chanel too.

TG - I would love to be part of that pub chat with you and Rachy! I hope you watch the McQueen documentary, I found it very moving.

Suz - I hope you enjoy the article.

La Ped - I really enjoyed those documentaries and the McQueen one was sad in terms of the abuse that both he and his sister suffered from her husband. His aim with his clothing was that women would be respected, so third wave feminism is appropriate.

Shevia - McQueen's designs seem more exotic than Chanel's, and personally I prefer it too. However, from all accounts Chanel's designs were outrageous at the time.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Thanks for this Bijou. I had a bit of a skim through it on the weekend but I quickly realised I needed more time. I’ll go back to it. These are 2 of my favourite designers. And don’t you just love the idea of doing a university thesis on fashion?

Bijou

Veteran

Brooklyn, yes this was in France, they didn't have any cool courses like this when I went to university!

MsMaven

Veteran

Thanks from me as well. I’ve read a couple of Chanel biographies and have always been fascinated by her. I definitely want to read this.

Jenn

(website)

Veteran

Thanks for posting this, Bijou. I'm bookmarking and coming back to it when I have more time.

rachylou and torontogirl, count me in for that drink, too! This is one of my favorite topics, for real.

Stagiaire Fash

Veteran

For those wondering about the author—I think this is her. https://www.svadore.com/about-me/
She has over 20k followers on Instagram. I wonder if she’d appreciate hearing that people are reading and enjoying her honor’s thesis.