So the short version is that I need to replace my entire wardrobe due to an illness that radically changed my size, and I'm having trouble.

I am now borderline straight/plus sizes, usually an 18-20 or 16W-18W. I am extremely hourglassy (34JJ bust, 36" waist, 50" hip), and so I strongly prefer that my trousers have some stretch because even with curvy fits, that's a difficult find (curvy fits often assume around a 10-11" differential).

My presentation is vaguely soft-butch, and I have a very long torso -- even though I'm 5'2", I often purchase Tall tops. I have no front rise to speak of but a long back rise due to bubble butt.

What I prefer to live in are soft, comfy, stretchy, boyfriend (or girlfriend) cuts, in shorts and jeans, that ride lower in the front but have plenty of coverage in the back, and don't have a completely horrid gap in the waistband. (I can take it in a little, but only so much, you know?)

I'm happy to wear men's jeans to get the cut I want, but usually the front rise is too long (though I used to wear men's Luckies).

Any brand suggestions or particular features to look for, or stores to poke around in?

Two pairs of pants I have that fit well:
- City Chic bootcut jeans, 16W
- Eddie Bauer curvy fit cords, 20