DYOT: a waistcoat - YouLookFab Forum

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DYOT: a waistcoat

Brooklyn

Veteran

Who wore a waistcoat in the 90s or the 00s? *hears cheers of YAY from the forum*

Who wears a waistcoat now? *hears the sound of crickets chirping*

I’m talking the masculine, cropped, fitted, suiting style waistcoat. Not a moto vest, denim vest or the longer gilet style that was a forum trend.

Waistcoats were a big part of my style in the 90s. About 2 years ago when I dabbled in “dark romance” I became interested in revisiting the style. But they are not around here in Australia at all. And I can’t recall seeing anyone wear one here on the forum. Maybe Rachy? Ready to be corrected by any waistcoat fans

A few weeks ago I stumbled on this Zara version and I was so happy I ordered it straight away. It’s closer to the shrunken minimalist version worn by Kate Moss in the early 00s than the more ornate brocade versions of the 90s.

My “vision” was to wear it in a menswear style as shown in my pics. In warmer weather I’d like to wear it more like pic 5 (Vuitton).

The issue:

It’s a knit. I prefer the feel of a knit to a woven, so I thought that would be an advantage. It is comfortable to wear but the disadvantage is that it doesn’t look good open (to my eye). It loses structure. It really needs to be at least partially buttoned up.

So I’m wondering if I’d get enough wear out of it when it has to be styled this way. Open styling gives more options. I really like pic 6 (open over a dress).

I’m leaning towards returning it and holding out for a woven in a silk brocade. I might go for lapels.

My questions:

*For the sewers: would a waistcoat be hard to make? If I went to a dressmaker would I need to find and supply a pattern? I thought this would be a good way to give a local person some work in these days when lots of people need work. I could get something closer to my “vision” and not have to wait another 2 years.

*For everyone: any thoughts or ideas on how to wear a waistcoat in the 2020s? I have no plans to wear it with tiny shorts like the lovely Kate but I’m open to other ideas.

TIA.

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37 replies

Latest reply was from UmmLila (Lisa)

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

I had an idea that waistcoats would be lovely a few months back, after seeing one on the Nili Lotan web site. <https://www.nililotan.com/prod.....NIQAvD_BwE>

I did not end up buying one but I'm showing you the link here for how they were styled.

I did get a black leather vest that's more 80s than 90s, but I have not worn it as much as I thought I might (yet).

Roxanna

Veteran

Been seeing a lot of love for waistcoats since the new Little Women reboot came out. Check out blue collar red lipstick Instagram account - she is obsessed too!

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rachylou

Veteran

Oh now I’m missing my waistcoat with matching trousers from the 90s and my little blue skirt set with waistcoat. I think this looks really good closed, but you should follow your feelings.

Roxanna

Veteran

Also meant to add - I have a wool waistcoat with layered Collar detailing that I adore and have had for at least a decade. Here’s an outfit with it.

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Sal

Veteran

I had a few in the 90s (I recall black, burgundy brocade and brown - the last one was a miss though). Mine were long to mid thigh length.

I think it would work for you Brooklyn - it seems true to your style and appropriate for your climate. If this one feels wrong I would return. Hard to know where to start looking - you are probably a very early adopter of a trend - thrifting, menswear or international retailers might be the best bet. But I will keep my eyes open for you!

Your photo here looks great but it has to feel great as well.

slim cat

Veteran

It all looks great on you - buttoned or not! I like how it showcases your slim waist and trendy wide legged pants. Depending on price it could be fun to keep it and wear it your way.
I used to have fitted pinstriped vest that was a bit cropped - it's gone now but not forgotten .

Brooklyn

Veteran

Oh my, this just came through on an email from Witchery (local retailer), maybe waistcoats ARE going to be a thing. Yay!
But I don’t think this is “the one”

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Brooklyn

Veteran

Roxanna, your waistcoat is great! Love the double layering and the fact that you can wear it open. I think that’s important. Thanks for the tip off about Blue Collar Red Lipstick.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Lisa, thanks. I had a faux suede moto vest a while back but it wasn’t a success for me. I think I want more of a Victorian vibe than a biker vibe, IYKWIM. I like the version you linked (not so much the price!), that’s close to what I have in mind.

Rachy and slim cat, thanks! I do like it closed but I think ideally it would be better to have more options. Trying to be PPP but it has been 2 years! There is something a little nostalgic about them for me too. It definitely gave me joy to put one on again.

Thanks Sally. I did look at menswear options. ASOS has some. I think men still wear them at weddings. But in the past when I’ve bought menswear it never ended up fitting right, so I won’t do that now. A thrifted version might be worth the risk.

JAileen

Veteran

You look amazing!

Re sewing a vest/ waistcoat (is there a difference?), I don’t think it would be hard to sew. You would want to make sure the fit is good before you sew in the lining and make the buttonholes. After the buttonholes, there is no turning back! If you had one of those adjustment things in the back, with a metal buckle or not, the fit could be less precise. If it were me I would also want little inset pockets. As for a pattern, I would ask the person if they had one. If you bought your own pattern, then you would have it from then on.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

I have saved my almost-edited-out thrifted 2015 suede patchwork waistcoat ( since I noticed on a YLF post earlier this year that they are coming back) and am playing with how to style it. My last white “peasant top” died 2 years ago but in June I thrifted another for $14, not worn yet. These are the ideas I am playing with, the waistcoat brand is Rene Derhy, apparently French.
Maybe more will turn up in store for you?
I have nowhere to wear this outfit. NZ Fashion Week is cancelled this year and this isn’t a work outfit...

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Jenni NZ

Veteran

Doh, forgot to say how awesome you look in yours! One with brocade would be fab, I tried to find one for Neil for the wedding in Vietnam last year that had cobalt brocade but a bridge too far! He just wore his white shirt and black pants and cobalt tie/cuff links.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

I think there might have been some Asian online stores that had some when I was looking- but Neil is 6 foot 4 and I thought it too much risk. Try Ali Express?

Jenni NZ

Veteran

I found 3 on The Iconic as well- screenshots attached.

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The Cat

Veteran

I love waistcoats, in particular the masculine style, and I used to have several of them in earlier decades. I would love to wear waistcoats again, but unfortunately haven't seen them around here for a very long time.

Well, we could consider searching the men's department and choose a small size. I remember to have done this before, successfully.

I would wear a waistcoat a number of ways--with a dress, a printed midi skirt or widelegged trousers and combined with a variety of tops, like a stretchy tee, a lace shirt, a silk shirt, a turtleneck pullover, a pussy bow blouse ... As for footwear, riding boots or oxfords would be great.

As always, you look gorgeous in your outfit.

Bijou

Veteran

I love waistcoats and have been wanting one for about the last 3 years. Gryffin has also been on the lookout for a classic tailored black vest. The only ones I have seen were Dolce and Gabanna waistcoats. Gorgeous but too expensive. This is stunning on you. I have a peplum waistcoat, and am very hopeful that true waistcoats are going to become available again.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Thanks Jenni and The Cat. I will count both of you as part of the waistcoat micro trend then.

Jenni, thanks for those Iconic finds. But they aren’t exactly what I have in mind. I’m very fussy. I’m warming to the idea of having one made. I could even have a go at it myself (I can sew a little) but ...

JAileen, I’d forgotten about the little pockets! That complicates things. I might skip those. A friend recommended a dressmaker to me and I’m seeing her next week for an alteration. So I’ll talk to her about it then. Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks Bijou. You are a wicked temptress - sending me down a Dolce and Gabbana rabbit hole. Some great inspiration there

Star

Veteran

https://www.amazon.com/TheMoga.....038;sr=8-1

The above one looks cute and so many colours. Made in USA. I am not aware how much shipping to Australia is though... You reminded me of a fabulous made to order waistcoat I had in the early 90's, a dark paisley on the front and black satin-ish material on the back. It looked so cool at the time, worn open with a tee shirt and cropped skinnies (little zips on the ankle) - Sassoon's - remember them? Gosh that outfit would be stylish today. BTW waistcoats are on the way back in so maybe more will be available soon (for Autumn in US/Europe).

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I used to love them, but alas, I've "grown out of" mine (I gave away a lovely Anne Fontaine one, but I still stubbornly hold onto another one from about 7-8 years ago even though I can only wear it open, and it's challenging to style). They suit your style really well!

Anonymous

Yes from me! I had brocade ones, I guess in late 80s, that I loooved and would wear today. In the 90s I wore one over peasant blouses and baloon sleeves. I like them also over sleeveless tops and dresses.

unfrumped

Veteran

I love vests and they were a part of my style “ back when”. I havd mostly eovens, silk menswear patterns, solid black, a dressier one.
The only knits I had were some sweater knits that I did enjoy as some had binding trins and styles that gave a bit of structure.
What makes them more wearable now is return of higher- waisted pants, and skirts also though skirts in general are at waist.

Hard for me to advise- the looks are different. I tend to go be figure- flattery ( it’s harder for me to get structure from knit vest on my frame) and what kinds of outfits you would wear.
Also even woven vests may be cut so they do or do not look good open vs buttoned or both- so the devil is in the details.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

No crickets chirping here! Only loud cheering because your outfit is KLLER to the Power of KILLER, Brooklyn

I hear you on the crisp tailoring and glorious structure of a woven waistcoat. But the comfort of a knitted one is yummy. You need one in a woven fabric with stretch.

Styling ideas:

as a top with your skirts
over your sleeveless tops with skirts, and worn open
with your new baggy jeans over a t-neck to tee - lots of bling
over a dress
under a jacket

YES, I wore waistcoats in the early '90s and loved them! I'd wear one again.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

I totally get that Brooklyn! I am fussy too when I get a certain idea in my head! You’re being a maximiser with this waistcoat ( see Jenn’s thread about compromise) and why not!

Runcarla

Veteran

I almost bought a fitted waistcoat pattern at the thrift store last week! Unfortunately the pattern size was on the smaller spectrum and there was no way it would fit - but I’m keeping my eyes open. I’ve been watching some videos by Bernadette Banner, who makes traditional Victorian garb using authentic methods (hand sewing or using a hand cranked sewing machine circa 1902!). She makes and wears waistcoats. https://youtu.be/THzNFKwrIOM

Back in the day I made a waistcoat for DH out of a black brocade fabric with a subtle gold print of wild animals - tigers, elephants, and giraffes. He wore it a lot!

gryffin

Veteran

Brooklyn - count me in with Bijou on team waistcoat. Yours looks wonderful but it’s difficult to see detail. I have a beloved but threadbare one from the 90’s and Inge helped me source a Rachael Zoe leather one. I like them very fitted so they can be worn as a top. I’ve had no luck finding anything affordable. I’ve stalked Ummlila’s nili lotan for months but it has never gone on sale in black. As bijou saif d&g, Gucci and SL are a fortune. Max Mara has but not the color. frame has done some too but not recently in a fabric or size. I would love a brocade or jacquard and continue to search. I will update you and bijou if something pops up that’s not a fortune. I hope you’ll keep me updated too. But love, love, love the style on you!! So elegant!!

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

You look smashing in your waistcoat and wide pants. Those trousers are absolutely signature to your style. I have been collecting since I noticed them popping up. My prize is burgundy velvet. Too hot now, but we shall see later.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Thanks all for the positive vibes and assistance!

Shevia, can’t wait to see your burgundy waistcoat. I had a burgundy brocade waistcoat in the 90s that I bought backpacking in Italy. I regret that I let it go.

Gryffin, thanks! We may be in luck soon, given that I have now seen 2 waistcoats at major retailers after a 10+ year drought. I’ll keep you updated.

RC, where did you find that video? I certainly feel too intimidated to try making my own now! But what a beautiful result.

Jenni, yes, a maximiser! When I settle I usually find the perfect version about 6 months later (sometimes sooner). Then I regret the placeholder, feel guilty about getting the perfect one but also totally unable to resist it, kick myself for “settling” repeatedly, blah blah blah.

Angie, thank you! Makes me want to keep this version but I think I’ll push on for perfect. And now I’m intrigued about what sort of waistcoat you would wear

UF, you and Angie make a great point. I need fabric with stretch. A little bit of Lycra. My memory of the 90s versions is that they were often quite stiff, with long armholes and deep v necks. I’d like something more cropped and fitted like Kate’s but with a more textured fabric and a shallow v neck. Oh, and nice buttons. (Fussy.)

ST, Janet, Star, thanks for the support. I think a lightweight version could be nice worn open over a summer dress for some extra interest without extra warmth.

anne

Veteran

I have one still tucked away from the 00s that I will be happy to wear again if the trend returns and if it still fits.
All the best for finding one for you, Brooklyn

Helena

Veteran

Oh this looks terrific and very modern! I love it. I did have a few waistcoats (they're often called 'vests' here) in the early 90s ... I think if I worked in an office environment I would definitely participate in this revival!

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