So this is an interesting piece, even though all the designers in question are beyond normal women price points:

"During the womenswear seasons of fashion week, it is always the public perception of what it means to be a woman that is most at stake. In previous seasons, it’s been easy to set this aside — think not about the macro implications of the power and tone and lifestyle connoted by a garment — in order to pursue, observe, criticize the minutiae of the hem on a dress, the sleeves on a sweater, the shape of a pair of pants. To have been able to set these implications aside, or to take them for granted because of designers who understood acutely enough how a woman wants to feel when she wears what she was does, was a privilege, not a right. What a bummer.…
"Since Hedi Slimane showed his collection for Celine, it has been impossible not to consider who is at the helm of the houses who are presenting shows and whether they are male or female and whether they and their bosses care about a garment’s highest calling: to make a woman feel like a better version of herself. Of course, this sense of “better” is going to vary greatly person to person, but held up against Phoebe Philo’s work, which existed to make wearers feel like they are perfect just as they are, it is tough if not disjointed to reconcile how a gaunt partygoer, poised to live fast and die young, as Slimane’s aesthetic has so long embodied, could carry the weight of tradition laid down by Philo…
"What is unfortunate is the oversight on the part of the senior level decision-makers at LVMH who have shown a blatant disregard for this moment in time when fashion has become style, style is more personal than ever and what we deem personal is also extraordinarily political.

What we wear has never felt more charged; I challenge the naysayers and nose-uppers to call it trivial."


https://www.manrepeller.com/20.....-week.html