I'm 5'9 with a 34 inch inseam broad shouldered (inverted triangle) with a larger bust, and very short waisted. Isabel posted a recent thread about her long torso (2 3/4 hand widths) that helped me realize how short waisted I am. I measure 1 1/2. Is this why I don't look right in cropped jackets, moto jackets and the like? Is it ever possible that I can wear a cheekier jacket or should I just stick with the longer jacket? Many thanks for your help!