Building Wardrobe - Fabrics to Avoid?

Hello all, this is my first post so if there has been a post on the main site or forum post that has already answered this, please forgive my ignorance. I tried to search before I posted. I am 27, and trying to build a wardrobe. I want to build a solid, classic wardrobe first, with the tried and true staples, and then build on that. I am looking for some direction as to which fabrics I should avoid. As I cleared out my old clothes, I started to notice that 100% rayon and modal fabrics both piled very quickly and didn't last very long. I've always thought that polyester was a big no-no, but when I went shopping over the weekend, it was hard to avoid it. Has polyester gotten better? I know it doesn't breathe very well, but that's all of the downsides I've heard. I have tried to focus on cotton, but for some types of shirts (wraps & draped) it seems like polyester would be better. Any direction would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to waste money buying clothes that will only last a season. I want to become an informed shopper, with your help. Thanks!

14 years ago

cheryle (Dianthus)

(website)

Veteran

My favorite fabrics are silk, wool and cotton or a blend of these. I avoided polyester for at least a decade but have relented if he fabric feels soft and pliable. There are many polyesters that I can't tell by touch are not a wool or wool blend. I try to get cotton shirts that are either non-iron or blended with poly since I find cotton to be very time-consuming to iron.

I avoid anything acrylic and rarely buy rayon unless it is labeled as machine washable and even then consider it to be a single season if that.

DressLover

I almost always avoid rayon and modal as you mentioned, as well as acrylic. These fabrics are made for "hanger appeal" in that they feel nice when you first touch them, but they wear horribly. Even dry-cleaning can rarely extend the life of these fabrics as light friction makes them fray and pill.

I take polyester and cotton on a case by case basis. Cheap polyester is pretty terrible, but quality polyester and poly blends can feel very similar to wool and silk. It is one of those things that once you start paying attention to it, you will notice the differences in quality. Cotton is also affected by quality. Generally, darker colored and white cotton pieces age more quickly than other colors. Dark colors lose dye and look washed out and white pieces get dingy. Basically, both fabrics are great, but you have to be careful when selecting them for investment pieces.

Now silk and wool I love. I tend to prefer silk jersey over regular silk as it is thicker, cleans better, wrinkles less, and is more durable. I prefer woven wool (like suiting fabric) over knit wool (like sweaters) for similar reasons. I think these two fabrications are incredibly versatile and ideal for investment pieces.

ironkurtin

It really depends on who makes it. Eileen Fisher, for example, makes a really good ponte that is all manmande fibers, and I have no idea how she does it! Otherwise, I am all-natural fibers all the way. Cotton, linen, cashmere, leather. I do make an exception for spandex. A little stretch is a girl's best friend!

missvee

Polyester has improved dramatically but like everything else, the quality varies. I'd suggest you visit one of the really pricey shops in your area, maybe where you wouldn't normally shop, and try on some items in silk, wool, blends, etc. See how they feel on your skin and ask the salesperson about their wearability. (Then, wait for the sales to purchase!!!)

biscuitsmom

Ive found as little as a 1-2% more in spandex makes a HUGE difference as far as how 'clingy' an item is....I like having 2-4% spandex in some items, but up it to 5-6% and it's such a tight/icky feeling I cant wear it.....I wear a lot of cotton blends and think polyester has really improved (in many items, not all!) within the last few years...I know you are looking to build a long-lasting wardrobe, but how much time are you thinking of?

old-grey-mare

Active Member

@ Biscuitsmom, I'm not expecting items to last for the next 10 years (although my wallet would love that), but I do want the items to work from season to season and not wear out prematurely. I'm done buying tops that pile within 5 washes. I'm definitely focusing on quality over quantity, I'd rather build my wardrobe up over time, waiting until I can find the most flattering option out there that is made well, rather than swooping in on deals that aren't as flattering as they could be and have so-so quality. I guess I'm just trying to make smarter decisions on my purchases and build a wardrobe that I can mature into. I'm thinking of making an appointment with a Nordstrom stylist at some point. Anyone have any luck with them?

I think meeting with a Nordstrom stylist is the way to go. Before your appointment, maybe gather up some of the items that haven't held up well. Study them. Look at the fabric, seams, buttons, etc. Then compare those details to the garments you try at Nordstrom. Even if you don't purchase anything on your initial trip, training your eye to seek quality is a very valuable exercise.

Elly

Star--- I guess it depends on the type of pieces you are looking for.

As you said yourself, it probably isn't best to expect to wear anything for 10 years. Sometimes something will surprise you (especially higher end pieces) and will just be special enough to continue to wear without looking dated, but for most items, even classics, 5 years is pushing it before they look "so-2004" (said with valley girl voice).

Woven fabrics especially in natural fibers and fabrications like suiting will be longer lasting. That said, I have poly pants that don't look like poly that have now outlasted their stitching at 6 years old.

As far as tops go, don't expect them to last more than a few seasons/ a couple years. Regular wear just wears them out-- knit fabrics fade stretch and pill and wovens thin out, develop small holes, fade, and rip along seams and stress points over time.

Honestly, with the exception of silk tops (which occasionally shrink like crazy, wrinkle, or lose color) I find very few frequently-used tops are going to last and are a guaranteed good quality. I've had poly shirts that are fab, others that snag. Some cotton drapey jersey looks great for ages, and others pill or fade. I have a rayon dress that still looks new, and others that kinda fuzz up.

lynn

I would avoid silk tops because they spot so easily, must be dry cleaned and the spots often don't come out. I learned the hard way with a beautiful silk top from J Crew this summer. One wear and it was ruined and I am no hard on my clothes! Good luck!

Samar

I think Elly brings up a good point. I always feel bad when I have tops that start to stretch or fade or pill, but realistically, after a couple years they look dated anyway. Even though I am a very conservative dresser and I rarely think I am looking very "trendy"---still---when I get out tops that are a few years old (even if they have held up well!), I look at them and think, hmm, this just doesn't look *current* anymore. And I just don't feel like wearing them---I am excited about some new look or new length or new silhouette instead.

This is not to say, of course, that you need to buy any old cheapo top that catches your eye. But I think you may want to *consider* including a few less-expensive pieces that are cute for now, realizing that they will only last a season or two, and being satisfied with them to fulfill that very purpose. In the long run, this might be *more* cost-effective than buying more expensive pieces that outlast their fashionable-ness (if that even makes sense) Again, I realize you are looking for more classic pieces that will not date as fast---but even in the classics, I have found that a hem-length or a sleeve-shape (even one that seems unremarkable when you buy it) can later have a surprisingly strong association with a given year or season.

Jenava

Personally, I avoid acrylic like the plague. I have not had quite as bad luck with modal or rayon. I do tend to only wash things when absolutely needed and then on cold, delicate and usually hang to dry.

Category