Happy holidays, y'all - here are some of my recent try-outs, mostly skincare. As always, add your own comments and hits and misses.

So in my recent nerding out on skincare products, I’ve learned that there are some active ingredients that are known for actual results, and other stuff that’s just marketing (although that doesn’t mean that any product will work or not work for everyone). Sunscreens, AHAs, BHA (salicylic acid), Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and Vitamin A/retinol are the biggies. Everything else is ‘just’ hydration and moisture. I’ve been trying to concentrate on those actives when I add new products.

Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum (Whole Foods)
Vitamin C is an antioxidant, and as such is rather unstable in its direct form. A lot of VitC serums don’t last very long because they break down when exposed to light and/or air. This one comes in a serum format but is actually made from a more stable derivative of vitamin C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Supposedly MAP converts to ascorbic acid, the active form, in the skin once it’s on, but there have been mixed results in lab testing as to whether that’s true or not. I liked this in general; it didn’t sting or leave stickiness and it felt moisturizing because of the other ingredients, but I didn’t notice any particular lightening or skin texture improvements. So I decided to try:

OST C20 (BBcosmetics.com)
This is one of the recommended VitC serums if you want the strongest, most effective form, L-Ascorbic acid. It’s from a Korean company and comes in a dark glass bottle with a dropper. It’s supposed to last 3 months before it oxidizes too much, longer if you keep it in the fridge. So far I’ve had mixed results with this. It obviously does have a kick to it, and my sunspots have lightened up. I felt a little irritation the first couple times I used it, but it’s settled down, and if I only use it every three days or so I don’t get redness or breakouts. I probably won’t repurchase this once it’s oxidized, though; I’m just not that impressed with it to bother to get it from halfway across the world.

Sefpil cream (Amazon)
Glycolic acid is the best known AHA, but there are others, including mandelic and lactic acids. Mandelic acid is a larger molecule than glycolic acid, so it’s supposed to be gentler and not cause redness, while still providing some chemical exfoliation and cleaning out dead skin layers. That sounded perfect for my sensitive skin, so I ordered this cream which is from a brand in India (there are very few products with mandelic acid available in the US). I really like it and it seems to agree with my skin. It has a unique smell that I happen to like, but it’s not a natural scent at all, if that makes any sense. I’ve been alternating this, a retinol cream, and a plain moisturizer at night and been pretty pleased with the results so far.

CosRX BHA Blackhead clearing power liquid (BB cosmetic, but also available on Amazon)
Apparently East Asian countries are really restrictive about what level of salicylic acid is OK for OTC skincare. So Asian brands have turned to gentler formulations, like betaine salicylate, which is what’s in this watery serum. It comes in a pump bottle and should be used after cleansing. Most Western salicylic acid products make my face burn and get red, so it’s nice that this doesn’t do that. Unfortunately, I’m not noticing a lot of positive results from it either, but that might just be that I’m not having a ton of breakouts recently.

Sephora Collection universal lip pencil
I’ve been noticing my lip color bleed off my lips recently (ah, the joys of getting older) and I thought I’d try this clear pencil to see if it would help. When I remember to use it, it’s good at first, but then halfway through the day it makes the fading of lipstick along the edges of my lips much more obvious.

Vicco turmeric WSO cream (eBay, Amazon has it too)
This is a product from India, where turmeric is used in a lot of cosmetic products - it’s a natural antioxidant and is supposed to soothe redness and all kinds of skin conditions. Even though I ordered the version without sandalwood oil, it has a very very strong scent to it, and not one I particularly enjoy. It does not reduce acne or redness for me, although it’s nice used on scabs and scrapes. I’m not convinced that the turmeric is doing anything in particular, and I suspect any decent cream or balm would have similar results.

Alpha skincare enhanced wrinkle repair cream (Ulta)
This has only 0.15% retinol, so despite the intimidating name is fairly gentle. I haven’t used retinols for a few years - when I tried them before I started with a too-strong concentration and caused damage that scared me away from using them for a while. I’ve been using this a couple times a week at night, and so far so good. This is one of the least expensive retinol options out there, so it’s nice to know that it’s decent.