Ask Angie: leg openings

kerry

I'm trying to replace 2 pairs of denim - a white pair of jeans and a medium wash relaxed skinny. I also recently bought a pair of Pilcro slim bootcuts. I made the mistake of thinking they would have a slimmer leg opening but were slimmer in the thigh instead.

My question is what are the most flattering leg openings for different styles of jeans? The 18-inch Pilcro bootcuts seem too wide to me now and my white boyfriends don't seem to taper enough to be flattering when rolled. Can I have a primer on the best size of leg opening for different denim styles? Is this universal?

12 years ago

Shopping

9 replies

Latest reply was from trix

April

Veteran

We almost seem to be in an "anything goes" period regarding leg openings, but I'll be eager to hear Angie's thoughts.

12 years ago

Beth Ann

Veteran

I've learned from returning to sewing that leg openings are also tied to sizing and scale --- I tapered my pants on the basis of a size 6, when I'm a size 14. Not the best result! Fabric weight also makes a difference in how hems move, drape, and roll.

I have seen people linking recently to baby bootcuts and slim boyfriends recently. Perhaps this is a place to begin?

12 years ago

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I can answer from my own experience. And that would be to say, the ideal leg opening size is certainly not universal. It depends on all kinds of factors: Your body type; the width of your calves and thighs; the rise of the pant; your height; the kind of shoe you intend to wear (heel or no heel, round toe or pointy); the overall style of the pant; your purposes (i.e. what kinds of outfits you want to make); the level of looseness or snugness you generally prefer.

The width of the leg opening itself doesn't even completely tell you about the degree of taper (in a BF jean, say) -- because that will also depend on the width higher up. Though it will tell you approximately how much it will stand out (or stick to) your calf, if you know your calf width. Assuming the measurement they give is accurate.

Can you tell I've done an extensive study of this??? LOL.

There's a reason. I am on the shorter side of regular height (or the taller side of petite, if you prefer). And I don't like "calf sucking" skinnies. So I have looked and looked for the leg opening size I need to create a skinny that doesn't cleave to my (relatively slim, yet still muscular) calf with the grip of the Grim Reaper trying to haul me to an early grave.

When it comes to boot cuts, I'll bet you can experiment a bit. If the ones you have are too wide, can they be tapered a bit to the width that feels best to you? Then you'll know your sweet spot.

I figured out my skinnies sweet spot (or area) by measuring all the jeans I have and comparing. Same with rises. For BFs, I prefer some taper but I'm not sure the specific leg opening size is as crucial as long as they can be rolled up (i.e. it can't be so tight that it can't roll up my calf.) But there's also the "straight loose stovepipe" type of BF jean that can look great on some; I haven't actually tried any like that so I'm not sure what the best opening would be on that for me.

This probably hasn't been a jot of help, but at least you know you are not alone in your obsession.

12 years ago

Gracie

Veteran

A note on baby bootcuts - in my experience they don't work with high heels. If you want to wear high heels with your denim, it might be a consideration. The only way to get PPP with those is to hem them for flats, or maybe up to about 1-1.5" heels.

12 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Which are the Pilcro bootcuts?

Kerry, it depends on your body type, height, footwear preferences, and which styles you tried on. Some BF styles are much more tapered in the leg than others. I can suggest both wide and narrower styles. Also, the larger the size the wider the hem openings on BF jeans - which can work both for and against you.

As for bootcut jeans, the smaller flares don't work well with heels. The wider ones work better.

Straight legs are really versatile jeans. They can be slim-fit or baggier, but aren't as tight as body con skinnies.

Thank you, Suz, Gracie and Beth Ann for your great replies.

12 years ago

kerry

Veteran

The pilcros are stet. I don't hate the width of the opening but wanted something more reined in. My jeans play very specific roles. I have NYDJ dark denim modern bootcuts that work well with mid heels. I generally wear shorter tops with them. I have skinnies (Level 99) that work well with tall boots and ballet flats. I generally wear longer tops with skinnies - mid-thigh dresses - to avoid upside-down ice cream cone as my thighs and derrière are pear-like. What I'd like now is a slimmer bootcut to work with fashion sneaks like converse and boyfriend jeans in white, blue or both that would work with flats or mid heels.

Suz, I always read your responses with interest as I LOVE how analytical and thoughtful you are!

April, I agree with anything goes right now. I'm trying to use this retail opportunity to hone in on all needs. I wear denim a lot. My life is very casual.

Beth Ann, I think I made this booboo when I had the tailor narrow the opening of my NYDJ waxed denim jeans!

Gracie, good point about the baby bootcuts and heels. I hadn't realized that. Mostly I want the slimmer bootcut for sneaks.

Angie, I'm short (5'4")' overweight - size 10 mostly (top and bottom), an hour glass from weight gain, with pear tendencies and tummy pooch!

I have straight legs but think I might have hemmed them too short (hardly any scrunch). I have white NYDJ (with stain now) that I wore all last summer with flats and longer tops but now I think they are too wide at the hem to be flattering. I feel to wear true bootcuts I need a heel to avoid frump and stump and with skinnies I need hip and derrière coverage so I was hoping slimmer bootcuts would balance the hips and thighs but not look dumpy in flats.

Thanks for your help!

12 years ago

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

I do think it varies based on body frame and clothing size. On me, 5'9", size 14, and reasonably sturdy build, 18" would be a straight leg, not a bootcut. And I can rarely buy skinnies without a bit of looseness around the ankle just because the openings have to let my feet through, and I have narrow ankles compared to my feet and calves.

But you can probably get a sense of what works for you with this - I am starting to assemble some numbers of what I need as far as length for cropped pants - same kind of issue, what works for everyone seems to vary.

12 years ago

kerry

Veteran

OK. So I did some research. First in my closet. My Pilcro bootcuts are actually 19 inch so that goes with the wisdom here that openings will vary with size (they're labelled as 18 inch). Relaxed skinnies are 14.5 inch, white ankle 15.5, light blue ankle 12, dressy bootcuts 20.5, skinnies 12.5.

Then I found a primer at Hudson jeans. I realize that it is just one brand but found it helpful. Skinny 12, straight 14.5, baby boot 16, bootcut 19, flare/wide leg 24, boyfriend 12.5.

Why don't all online retailers provide this information in their descriptions?

Next I need to measure thigh width so I can see the relationship between the taper and the leg line (if that makes sense!). I tapered a pair of waxed denim to 12 inch but think I over-tapered!

On me I think 14 inches or less will scrunch. How many extra inches in length do you keep to allow for scrunch? What's the maximum width you'll accept for cropped - rolled or not?

12 years ago

trix

Active Member

Although I don't know enough about the most flattering cuts to answer your original question, I wanted to point you toward one of the manufacturers that does post pretty comprehensive garment measurements: Boden. For jeans, they'll tell you inseam, waist circumference, hip circumference, front rise, back rise, thigh circumference (sometimes), and leg hem circumference for each size (including tall and petite). Plus there are often a lot of reviews, which can help you figure out sizing (I generally find them to run just a touch smaller than, say, J. Crew.) They've got about 25 different pants on offer at the moment (not including maternity), so there's got to be something you can use as a model.

12 years ago

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