In my experience (son and fiance), most men's suits need to be tailored regardless of brand. That takes initial fit out of the equation with the exception of the shoulder fit. I shopped with my son a few weeks ago and he tried on about a dozen suit jackets directly from the rack and we screened them in or out based on shoulder fit. He then tried the full suit of the contenders on. He bought two and I believe one was calvin Klein and don't recall the other. He picked the slim cut suits only and still took them to have the pants narrowed to a more modern fit. Tailoring on men's suits is even more a necessity than for women.
I am fairly sure express suits for women are not made of wool but could be wrong. I check to see fabric mix on the suits for the men in my life. I think a nice weight of wool that can be worn all year round in a mid-range color with subtle pattern (usually grey) is most versatile.
I am not sure if that helps at all Sveta. The other option is custom made. Both my son and fiance have two or three custom made suits in super 130 or 140 wool. The fit was perfect and they were able to select the pocket detail, preferred vent, collar shape and width, and lining fabric.