Ask Angie: crash course in textiles?

Aziraphale

lyn's recent question about viscose vs. rayon reminded me of my frequent confusion when reading the care tags of garments I'm considering buying. You mention that in the fashion industry, people stay away from viscose but not rayon (I thought viscose was just a type of rayon?), but viscose blends are OK. Why is that? And can you offer any quick tips for fabrics to stay away from?

My biggest pet peeve is fabrics that pill and look old quickly. I'm OK with fabrics that need ironing.

Also, what's the deal with bamboo? A few years ago, they were touting it as a wonder fabric (and it is indeed soft), but I haven't had any luck with it. Bamboo tops look awful after just a few washes in cold water (no dryer).

14 years ago

General

9 replies

Latest reply was from mrseccentric

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

A loaded question! But a very good one, and fabrics are my thing.

Viscose is technically a type of rayon - and creases and shrinks like crazy in it's pure form. Pure rayon is more stable. I am NOT a pure viscose fan. I vote stay away from 100% viscose.

Like cotton and polyester - there are a billion different qualities of rayon and viscose. Use your discretion and opt for good quality where you can.

This is the general rule of thumb:

Natural fibres are breathable and keep you both cool and warm (cotton, linen, fur, silk and wool). But they are often unstable in their natural form - especially cotton and linen. Shrink, stretch, fade - you name it.

Manmade fibres have their place. They are much more stable and last.

Soooooo - a blend of both natural and manmade fibres is usually a win. That's why I advocate "opt for a blend".

Do not turn your nose up at polyester! It is a great invention

14 years ago

krishnidoux

Veteran

Thank you Angie, very useful!

14 years ago

lyn*

(website)

Veteran

Thanks! This makes a lot of sense

14 years ago

Polly (thunalata)

Veteran

Thank you elisabeth for asking and Angie for that interesting reply.

Hijack: Angie pretty please would you consider a post on fabric properties, especially on how to spot a good one? I turn my nose up at polyester and would love to learn how not to....

14 years ago

Aida

Veteran

I remember reading somewhere that it takes 35% of a fiber in a blend to make a significant difference to the other fiber, and 50% to get a fiber's best qualities. Have you found this to be true?

14 years ago

Freckles

Veteran

Great question and what great comments afterwards.

Angie is a treasure isn't she.

Funny about bamboo Elisabeth as tons of my son's t-shirts are bamboo and they are a dream. Wash in cold, hang to dry and no pilling, stretching or fading. They look almost as good as the day we bought them.

My favourite of his shirts, gear though, is a combination of cacoa shells, polyester and rayon. Washes like a dream, dries in a minute, etc.

14 years ago

Anonymous

Interesting topic. I have a rayon sleeved dress, that was a pain to hem, because the dry-cleaner fix-up lades told me they would ruin the material with their sewing machines. I had to wait for a home visit for my mum to hem it ( she had the appropriate sewing machine ). I suspect because it was a rayon-Lycra blend?

14 years ago

Aziraphale

Veteran

Thanks for clearing that up, Angie. I don't officially turn my nose up at any fabric, although I admit I'm hesitant to buy polyester because I've had some pilling disasters with it. Same goes for bamboo, although I have a few bamboo/cotton blends (where cotton is the dominant fibre) that seem OK, although I admit they are more delicate than 100% cotton.

Interesting that you have had no problems with bamboo, Freckles. Maybe I just had bad luck.

Thunalata, I'll second your request for a post on fabric properties. Pretty please, Angie?

14 years ago

mrseccentric

(website)

Veteran

Hi Aida! i've sewn for decades, so i'll hop in here and say - i've found it varies from blend to blend. even 2% lycra in a blend can make a huge, very noticeable difference in the performance of the fabric (it will stretch, it will resist wrinkles, it will scorch more easily, it will lose the lycra qualities if you dry it in a hot dryer). over 5% lycra and some fabrics start to feel very 'sporty' and almost rubbery.

a great way to learn about fibres, fabrics, and blends is to go to a decent fabric store. every bolt should have that info on the end of it. run your hand over the fabrics, take some down and examine the drape, scrunch it to see how it wrinkles, gather some at your waist and wiggle to see how it moves and how much it reveals, etc. if you can, take notes (though some stores get nervous thinking you will order fabrics online).

nowadays the vast majority of clothing has fibre content info on the garment, so you can make the same study of garments. hope this helps, have fun, steph

14 years ago

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