Thank you Angie, Diana, and Dana! I think I see what I need to do.
I need a more traditional knee length coat like your ink military coat, Angie, as well as a shorter puffer for days when it's not frigid.
I like the proportions with my gilet but that won't work for me as an outerlayer because, no sleeves!
The slim straights I wear are probably between a skinny and a straight, Angie. They're CoH and they are not sausage casing; there's some room in the calf and they are not exactly tapered. (The blue Agnes ones look ridiculous on the model here but on me they're more like the white Elsa pair, which I also own and wear.) They work with all my current coats so it's really not an issue, as Dana said.
I also wear slim BF like the Dres at a cropped length. Plus the BR flares, the Halogen cropped flares and the culottes (denim and wool). As Dana pointed out, it is really the culottes that are the trickiest. Pretty much all the others will work assuming I have the footwear and sock layer sorted so that I'm not freezing.