I have not read anything by Judith Thurman, but now I want to after reading this NYT article.

One bit:
“I’d rather talk about style than beauty. Style is the self-conscious attempt to create beauty, and that engages technique. It engages experience, knowledge, worldliness. What makes fashion interesting is not about what’s hot. It’s about a sense of originality that comes through as a language that stays clear of the trite. A language that is self-conscious about itself, self-conscious about received ideas. Vulgarity is a form of unconsciousness, really.”