Thanks, Joyce! I was really surprised to see it, but it made a huge difference to the finished garments. Oddly, there are few frumpier garments than a not-quite-finished 40s dress. It needs the right hem length, belt, and shoulder definition. And then suddenly then it all works.
My mother is a pear with a tiny waist and quite narrow shoulders. She never wore huge shoulder pads even back in the day, but to balance out her figure she does prefer medium-sized ones. For years she wore small ones (less than 1/2" thick at most) even in her tees; her shoulders are shaped so that it wasn't really noticeable. It just balanced. From her I learned how to make pads from concentric circles of light fusible fleece, building up just enough thickness. Cheaper and more subtle than bought ones.
It is, bj1111. Right about 40-42 is my guess. Quite warm with a heavy interlining, and small collar so I can wear a fur over or not. The fastenings are so neat - matching mulberry plastic, twisted loops that hook over prongs on the other side. The fabric is nubbly wool in rows, too, like giant terry cloth. So much texture and color! I'm looking forward to wearing it.