Starting the Serious Search for Trousers - YouLookFab Forum

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Starting the Serious Search for Trousers

rachylou

Veteran

Ok. I'm calling an official start to the Serious Search for Trousers. PPP all the way. We're talking closet basics here - classic, all-season wool office trousers. Ok, well maybe leaning a little more to the hip side...

Anyhoo... Suggestions for brands/designers/stores? I've not had luck with Theory or Tahari. Nor Ann Taylor, J. Crew, Banana Republic, Express. A lot of trousers are too hippy for me.

Also... I have problems committing to a heel height. I'm tired of my little two-inch heeled office pumps. Do I need to search for shoes at the same time?

Also... I'd like to start with colours other than black and navy.

Ok, and they don't really have to be wool, but you know - not denim or cotton twill.

Shopping

40 replies

Latest reply was from rachylou

Adelfa

Veteran

Wow, you've just named all the brands I've ever bought trousers in! Do you do petite sizes?

Gray is nice in wool. And I have a heathery brown pair that I adore.

Is Theory too hippy? It runs so small I would have thought it might work.

Anonymous

I am thinking you might need to tailor off the rack pairs to get a perfect fit, giving the list of brands you have tried. Not a bad thing, actually.

Do you have access to a store with those "obscure" Euro brands? If you were in NYC, I would send you to Century 21. I would also try Juniors and boys trousers, why not?

Peri

Veteran

I think WHBM has nice trousers, and often theirs are machine wash. So...maybe that is more casual than you are looking? But, they look dress to me!

Like these? http://m.whitehouseblackmarket.....#038;size=

Peri

Veteran

These? http://m.whitehouseblackmarket.....#038;size=

sarah

Veteran

Rachy, were the Express columnists even too hippy for you? I have NO hips and they work well for me.

Parsley

Veteran

Rachy, have you tried Vince trousers?
I have some of the "strapping" tuxedo ones that I absolutely love. They are quite narrow through the hips. They do have very nice black and navy ones, but here's "ash" - sort of a taupe, with a black tuxedo stripe:
http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/vi.....rs/3508928

I know they look like an awkward length on the model, but on me- 5'6", they are a perfect length to wear with oxfords, heels, or anything. How tall are you?

I'm getting ready to duplicate my black ones, since they are my go-to pants in winter.

Vix

Veteran

Hi Rachylou --

Are you sure you're not choosing too *big* of a size when trying on pants? I'm mystified how Theory could be too big in the hips/butt/thing given what I've seen.

And are you trying Ann Taylor's City Fit -- or even the Modern? They generally make them in straight and bootcut.

http://www.anntaylor.com/ann-p.....der_FitGui

Transcona Shannon

Veteran

If you have trouble finding trousers Rachy, what about having a pair or two made for you?

As for colours, I can see a lovely charcoal grey or camel working with your wardrobe.

kkards

Veteran

I 2nd parsley's call out on Vince, I bought 3 pairs this year, I had to have the waist taken in a smudge, but the fit every where else was perfect. I would also recommend Alice and Olivia, & Rachel Zoe. Also, I don't know which jcrew pants you tried, but I got a pair of lightweight wool pants in the stovepipe cut, they are cut very straight. They maybe worth a try, but I think they maybe an online only style.

rachylou

Veteran

Peri, that's a great suggestion. Thanks! A WHBM even opened up near me, and I haven't been in yet.

Parsely, kkards - Those grey Vince's are good looking. Heh, I didn't see anything but black in the stores I went to today, but I have really been liking Vince this year too. Noting Alice & Olivia and Rachel Zoe. I've one pair of RZ's which I really like, but they're not basic, classic enough. I'm not entirely sure about RZ because her pants are made to be worn with such high heels and shortening them... well a lot of her pants to me seem very flared. Might interfere with the shape. But I have to remember, you can't tell until you actually try something on (!!)

Shannon - Yeah, perhaps I should bite the bullet and just get some made for me. I don't know where to start, to find a seamstress or style. Boy, there are times when a girl misses her dad. He would have known who to talk to.

Vix, Adelfa, Sarah - I suppose hippiness is actually just one of numerous problems I have with finding pants. The other is often the rise is too short. If it's not one problem, it's the other. There is also the fine front view, terrible back view issue - I don't know what that means, saggy butt. One thing about my figure, I'm way off the golden mean, in terms of the difference between waist and hips.

Zap - That's probably what I need, an obscure Euro brand. I don't know where to find them anymore, esp. now that I've moved. The one store where I'd find some of those has A) gone more casual and B) switched out designers. I don't know who's who anymore either. We don't even get French movies these days.

ironkurtin

Veteran

For Euro designers try Yoox.

Another vote for Vince. I also like JCrew.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Those Vince pants that Parsley linked to are gorgeous and I can see you in those.

If you could find some that fit properly in the rise, the hips could be taken in some, I'll bet. I do hear you on how that would complicate things. If you have a long rise, then they will seem/ be baggier in the butt by default. Unless you have a bigger butt, of course. Which you do not.

elpgal

Veteran

Try Limited. I like the ponte fabrications for trousers as they are a more forgiving fabric.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I was also going to suggest J.Crew, and the MARTIN fit an BR.

What was the problem with Theory? Some Classiques Entier, 3.1 Philip Lim, Derek Lam and Rag & Bone.

Anonymous

Rachy, is your issue that the pants are cut too curvy for you?

Diana

Veteran

I was going to suggest yoox too. Their descriptions and photos are singularly unhelpful though and sometimes straight up wrong, so you have to be willing to roll the dice a bit. What I do is order a ton of things (free shipping over 200 anyway) with the expectation that I'll return 90% of it. The return is a flat rate ($7, I think) so its reasonable.
Angie's idea of j crew is good too. Their pants never fit me since my butt is like 3 sizes bigger than every other part of my body in their clothes, so they might be perfect for you!

rachylou

Veteran

Classiques Entier, 3.1 Philip Lim, Derek Lam and Rag & Bone - ok, definitely have not looked at these designers for trousers. Thanks, Angie for the suggestions! I'll have to find out where to go for them. My Nordstrom just seems to have a giant Marni section now and a little St. John one off to the side. My Neiman's was just offering Theory and Tahari. Or at least, the SA who was helping me only had those to serve up.

I don't suppose I should also try the Martin fit. And the Limited - thx, elpgal. Haven't been there in a long time. And Yoox - thx IK & Diana! Have not looked at Yoox since they came online, to be honest.

Re. fit and brand issues: Zap, Angie, I do feel a lot of pants are cut too curvy for me. I don't have quite as much hip as my waist size would suggest. With Theory - depending on style, it's been "any of the above." Bagging at the hips, awkward backview or too short in the rise (which maybe happens when I attempt to size down). I guess the bagging and "excess" of material backside are my most frequent complaints.

Thistle

Veteran

I can't really offer any help as I am so very pear shaped! I can offer you condolences on the search and hugs for the pain of trying on over and over and not finding (remembering my jeans search!).

DonnaF

Veteran

If rise is an issue, have your tried any pants in Talls if they are carried small enough? Of course, you would have to hem them.

Gaylene

Veteran

My suggestion is a tailor. Men never expect a pair of dress pants to fit without some tweaking; given that it's much harder to fit a trouser on a woman's body, it's amazing that, as women, we've been brainwashed into thinking that tailoring is too expensive, too complicated, or too whatever..

Try on different styles and brands to find something that you like and that fits fairly decently in the rise, which is the most difficult alteration. As long as the pant isn't too tight in the butt, upper thigh, or waist, altering the pant to fit you shouldn't be much of a problem; it will be just a matter of taking in the seams to give you a perfect fit. If you are unsure, buy the pant, keep the receipt, check with a tailor, and, if there is an issue, return the pant.

It's one of my pet peeves, even in pricey women's shops, the sales staff don't bring in an on-site tailor to tweak the fit for women like they automatically do for men. And, if I'm paying over $100 for a pair of pants, I want those simple alterations for free, thank you very much!

rachylou

Veteran

I appreciate all the sympathy I can get, Thistle. It's very frustrating.

DonnaF - There's a thought(!) Talls. I don't know much about Talls. It's always regular and petite... I'll have to see about this.

Gaylene - I appreciate the advice. About what part to fit, and what part to take to the tailor. I don't want to get into a major reconstruction thing - at that point I think might as well get them made for me from scratch.

Anonymous

Then I think you should a to buy off the rack and have them tailored. Most US pants are cut curvy. Narrowing a hip is not a major alteration if you get a pant with a flat front and no side pockets, like the Editors.

Gaylene

Veteran

Actually, taking in a couple of seams is peanuts. I do it all the time because my hips are definitely not curvy so I get side pouches on most pants which make me look like I'm wearing jodphurs. It takes less than five minutes to straighten out those side seams to eliminate the curve. It's the rise and, to some extent, the waistband seam that are trickier unless the pant is constructed to make those alterations easy (which is how men's pants are made!) Narrowing the hip and legs is easy peasy.

Making a pair of pants from scratch is a whole other story. That can end up being a fitting nightmare if the tailor/seamstress doesn't have a lot of experience.

elpgal

Veteran

My tailor is successfully able to take in fabric so he butt does not sag but she performs this operation only on pants that are thin in fabrication and have a back seam. According to her, pants from a suit set are most amenable to alterations because they are constructed to account for the possibility of alterations.

DonnaF

Veteran

Rachylou: Express may simply make their pants in various lengths, but Gap, BR, Ann Taylor, and J.Crew all carry Talls. They may only be sold online, but if you go to the store and order you can avoid S/H charges. Or just wait for a sale. And you can return that online merchandise to a brick'n'mortar even if they don't carry the size range.

Please report back if you find good pants for the bootyless.

rachylou

Veteran

elp, that is extremely informative about fabric and alterations!

Gaylene, question - do you not take apart the seams to take in the sides?

DonnaF - I'll have to revisit my "black listed" stores with this information about alterations in mind. I never thought of myself as having no booty before, but... gosh. It has gone somewhere... Lol.

Anonymous

Rachy, I hav a flat butt and recently made a pair of my own pants from my own drafted pattern, I never had such a flattering shape and fit at the back before. I now know all the ins and outs of altering for a flat butt. I wish you lived nearby, I soon get you sorted! i know elpgal said about altering just specific trousers, but to be honest a good tailor who knows what they are doing can adjust any type of pants. You don't just alter the sides you see; you have to adjust the back leg width only, at the crotch point and down centre back seam. Perhaps you could try getting some made?

Gaylene

Veteran

It depends how fussy I want to be and what needs to be done. Taking out a seam on most ready-to-wear garments is usually quite easy (almost scarily so, sometimes!). Often, if I'm just removing those side "poofs" from a pair of fly front pants, I just redo the seam, smoothly blending the new seam into the original at the top and bottom, cut off the excess fabric from the seam allowance, and refinish the edge. A pair of side-zip pants would require taking the one side seam apart, and re-installing the zipper, slightly more time-consuming, but not a hard job for anyone with a bit of sewing experience.

Honestly, when it comes to altering pants, it's the rise and waist area that are the most difficult on women's pants because most pants are not constructed to make this alteration easy. In the early 80s, a Canadian designer, Linda Lundstrom, used to design all her pants so they could be customized in the waist and hip area. She eventually stopped because, she said, most women just couldn't adapt to the concept of adjusting a ready-to-wear garment. I think manufacturers and designers found it easier to just incorporate stretch into the fabrics than to concern themselves with offering fitting adjustments.

rachylou

Veteran

I wish I lived near you too, Diane! Tailors are not thick on the ground here.

Very interesting, Gaylene, about the Canadian designer.

I say, you guys, what does a pair pants, amenable to alterations, look like?

And wait, if I can ask one more question - if you get pants made, do you need to take a pattern to the tailor? Or would the tailor have patterns?

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