Should I de-sleeve this dress? - YouLookFab Forum

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Dressing

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Should I de-sleeve this dress?

Sylvie

Veteran

Here is one of my almost closet orphans, worn <5 times in the past year.

It's a grey shirtdress with an elasticated waist and tiered skirt. It has a detachable belt that can be tied on like an obi. The problem is that it has short puffed sleeves that stick out and show through a cardigan worn on top.

I want to remove the sleeves so that it will be easier to layer on top of the dress. This will cause the shoulders to drop because the sleeves will no longer hold them up (see yellow arrows on picture). The torso will then become longer and blouse out over the belt. The neckline will become lower but I can fix that with a base layer.

Do you think the blousing out will be ok and is it a good idea to remove the sleeves?

Let me know if there's a reason I shouldn't pick up my scissors and hack into it right now. Thanks!

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Dressing

23 replies

Latest reply was from HeleenH

Sarah

Veteran

I think you're on to something! This dress would look great sleeveless. Hack away!

Lantana

Veteran

This is a tricky alteration. If I were doing it, I would unpick the sleeve very carefully, leaving as much seam allowance as possible. I would alter the shoulder seam so it sits flush on your shoulder. (You have beautiful collarbones, BTW.) I would also make a downward bust dart about half way down the armscye, where the fabric is pleating. Then I would cut armhole facings from the sleeve fabric, or face with colour matched bias tape. A proper facing will sit better on your shoulder than a tape facing, IMO.
If you take your time, pin, baste and try on until you're happy with the fit, you will have a dress that will look nice with or without the cardi. Good luck!
Forgot to say that by making these alterations, the shoulder won't drop, which was your main concern I think. And my apologies if you're an experienced seamstress and know all the above already.

JennyAnne

(website)

Veteran

Do it! Much sleeker wtihout the sleeves, both for wearing under a cardi or jacket or wearing alone.

suzanne m

I second the "Do it!"

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I had similar sleeves removed from a blouse this summer and was glad I did it. I like the more streamlined style and it's easier to layer.

kimlee

Veteran

I am another vote for having the sleeves removed. Lantana has given you some great guidance on the best way to make this alteration.

Queen Mum

Veteran

yes, remove those sleeves:-)
you could find that the shoulder area lays better once you've removed the sleeve as opposed to folding it in.

morethanbeige

Veteran

I think your idea is fabulous. Love the dress without the sleeves.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

The dress without the sleeves should look great. I say it's worth a try for sure!

Mo

(website)

Veteran

I like it as is, but looks like it would be cute without sleeves as well. I have to say, if wearing a dress less than 5 times in a year makes an orphan, my closet is a veritable orphanage!! You must really get use out of your pieces!

Anonymous

Yes, I would remove them, too. I am so "over" puffed sleeves and was happy when I finally edited them all from my closet. You will have a great looking versatile dress when you're finished.

Vix

Veteran

Another vote for the chop!

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thumbs up for de-sleeving.

cjh

(website)

Veteran

Good idea to remove. Lantana has good advice. You may find there is already a binding/facing which encases the sleeve seam (I can't tell from the picture whether the sleeve cap is just on the top part of the armseye, or if it is a full set in sleeve), and you can unstitch the part where the cap sleeve is inserted, remove the sleeve and resew the binding down.

Aziraphale

Veteran

Yes. I don't care for those sleeves, and I love the look of sleeveless. Go for it!

Sylvie

Veteran

Thank you all for the encouragement. Those sleeves are going to be history! I'm hemming a pair of jeans first to give myself some positive sewing reinforcement.

Cjh: There is no binding encasing the sleeve seam - oh how I wish for a dress sewn using such couture techniques.

Lantana: Thank you for your sage advice. I'm an experienced enough seamstress to understand your suggestions...and to know that they're beyond my current skill level. I can see how a bust dart and shoulder alteration would really give me a beautifully tailored dress but that requires going to a real tailor. Here's what I was thinking (and please feel free to critique).

The sleeve is actually a half sleeve (red), with some gathering at the top for the pouf. The lower half of the armseye (yellow) is nicely finished with a self hem.

I was going to retain the original sleeve/body seam and cut off the upper sleeve just over half an inch away from the seam (blue line). That extra fabric then gets folded in to become a quarter inch wide sleeve facing. The problem will be the gathering at the top of the sleeve cap, which could either help to give me the room I need in the facing (since the sleeve is not on the bias) or end up adding too much bulk.

The other option is to cut the whole half sleeve off, then cut a proper shaped or bias strip facing from the sleeve and sew it back on.

I think the best first step is to snip the elastic at the sleeve edge so the sleeve lies flat and can be pinned easily. Then I'll be able to properly see what the impact would be on the shoulder and torso fit and can post photos again for YLF feedback.

Mo: For a non-fancy dress, yes, <5x/year makes it nearly an orphan. I do have 3 beautiful silk printed sheath dresses in my closet, none of which has been worn more than twice.

Side note: We need to have a YLF cocktail party so we can all drag out our fanciest duds.

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banananutmuffin

Just another vote for removing the sleeves!

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Claire, I'm feeling quite over puffed cap sleeves myself, and it seems like EVERYTHING had them maybe 2-3 years ago. At least all the summer weight tops. I got rid of a lot of those style tops this year, but a couple made the cut, with the sleeve removal treatment.

Parsley

Veteran

Wow, Great idea!
And great advice from Lantana and other seamstresses who obviously know their stuff.

Please show us after pictures when the project is done!

mamaKate

Veteran

As someone who does a lot of my own sewing and alterations, Sylvie, I think your plan sounds like the right tradeoff between investment of your time vs. the value of the dress. Have fun! I love projects!

Lantana

Veteran

I'm so relieved to learn you are an experienced sewer. I vote for your second idea, to take the whole sleeve off and cut a proper facing. The bust dart is not too difficult because the dress is folding exactly where it needs to go. It's telling you to make a dart there. It's worth doing. The worst problem with de - sleeving is the creation of a gappy under arm. However, because you already have a high cut under the arm, ie it's a half sleeve, your alteration will come up nicely. Glad I have been of help.

catgirl

Veteran

Yes. Yes, you should!

HeleenH

Veteran

Get one of these and carefully rip the sleeves off by ripping the seam. Then you can re-attach them without the folds and use them as interfacing.

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