Every season has wonderful trends that we can adapt to suit our lifestyle, body type and fashion persona. It’s a matter of sifting through the styles on offer to add the right amount of “right now” to our existing wardrobe. In the process we leave behind things that don’t work for us, or that we simply don’t like. This is more difficult when the trends are hard to wear, choice is limited to a few fashionable design details, or items aren’t styled for the average woman. Here are my complaints about Autumn and Winter 2008:

• Soaring heel heights: Finding fabulous boots is hard, but when most of the heeled styles are in excess of three inches it’s that much harder. I don’t know who purchases them because I seldom see super high heels on the street (and that’s all over the world). There must be a lot of people sitting in high, high heels because they’re certainly not for walking.
• Too many mini skirts and dresses: It’s amazing how many times I took petite clients into the regular clothing area to gain a few inches of length on a skirt. I found myself passing up on plenty of skirt and dress styles because the hems were short and I’m only 5ft 6. Raised hemlines are fine, but when that’s the only option in stores it’s a problem.
• Poorly styled sweater dresses: Don’t get me wrong, I adore these and bought another one this season. But finding the perfect sweater dress is a tall order. Retailers (ultimately the fashion buyers) did not put enough thought into how these styles could be most flattering on a typical, curvy female form and there were loads of sweater dresses on early markdown as a result of poor styling.
• Pleated pants: We have not seen the last of this generally unflattering trend. It’s all over the show for Spring.
• Too many puffed sleeves: I personally enjoy puffed sleeves, but there are many women who either don’t like them or can’t wear them. Once again, there was far too much of this design feature in stores. I was often passing up on items for my clients because of the abundance of puffed sleeves.
• Too many empire baby-doll cuts: This silhouette can look killer on some and it’s great for camouflaging muffin top or balancing out curvy hips. But once again, the sheer overdose of the look is a weakness of the season. Busty gals can seldom wear empire cuts and the style can make you look pregnant (which is only a bad thing if you DON’T want to look pregnant).
• Boyfriend jeans: Don’t like the trend on adults.
• Fringe fashion that made me laugh: Latex leggings, harem pants and jumpsuits.
• Uggs: Enough said.

There were also a few missed retail opportunities:

• I sound like a broken record, but a deeper assortment of fab looking shoes and boots with one to two inch heels always goes down well. I cannot understand why this super-popular heel height is constantly overlooked in the US. It’s so much easier to find in Europe and Asia.
• Winter dresses in heavier fabric weights with longer sleeves would have been fab. They are easier to wear than sweater dresses and look fab with a great pair of boots, hose and coat. What’s not to love about a super easy slip-on-and-go frock?
• A wider range of casual pants that aren’t jeans or cords. If you lead a casual lifestyle and don’t like to wear skirts, you can get really sick of wearing jeans.

Personally, there were a handful of items on my shopping list that I could not find: the perfect pair of slouchy chestnut boots, a long cream puffer coat with fake fur trim, a red tartan pencil skirt and flat cream knee-high boots. I suppose there’s always next season! Your turn ladies. Bring on your rants for Autumn and Winter 2008 before we close the door and concentrate on Spring 2009.

Many of us have a good few months of cold weather to endure before the weather warms up, but we’ve seen the last of Autumn and Winter in retail stores (blame the retail cycle). Cold weather merchandise is on heavy markdown so if you’re still in the market for that, shop online for the best deals in town.

Spring collections are unfolding and as always I’m champing at the bit to talk about them. But you know the drill. I like to end off a retail season by sharing our final thoughts on the last six months of fashion:

Here are my raves (hold off on the rants because we’ll do those tomorrow):

• Biker jackets: I absolutely love this look because I’ve always been “a biker girl”. The trend is going through to Spring and Autumn so don’t give up on the look if you want to incorporate it into your style. And if you’re like me, it will ALWAYS be part of your style.
• Boots, boots and more boots: A cold weather season without boots is like putting on an outfit without a bra. The two go hand in hand. There was an excellent assortment of flat boots this season and I particularly enjoyed the resurgence of Dr. Martens and slouchy styles. Tucking jeans into boots is practical, sleek and flop proof for wet, snowy weather and it happens to be one of my very favourite Winter looks. The look is here to stay so if you missed it this season, they’re always next time.
• Pencil skirts: You’ve got to love a gal in a pencil skirt. It’s a killer look and my best skirt silhouette.
• Boyfriend cardigans: I committed to one of these when they first surfaced and have thoroughly enjoyed wearing it belted. It made for a nice change alongside its forever fashionable cropped counterpart.
• Skinny belts: Love them and didn’t wear a skirt ensemble without them. They added the perfect dose of polish each time.
• Waistcoats: I like adding menswear inspired pieces to my wardrobe and the waistcoat is a superb way of doing just that.
• Ruffle and zipper detailing: I like ruffles on anything and zippers add a certain edge. It’s right up my alley to combine both looks into one outfit.
• Tailored jackets: It’s wonderful to see the tailored jacket in stores again. For a while, trapeze styles flooded the market and they are much harder to wear. Long live the flop proof tailored jacket!
• Higher rises: I love their “girdling effect”.
• Bright colours: There’s nothing like a pop of saturated colour to get you through a cold Winter’s day. I especially enjoyed red, fuschia, yellow, and turquoise because they are my colours. But jewel tones reigned supreme with several of my clients and I’m glad that they were available this season.
• Textured hose: Self-coloured patterned black hose makes me smile. They completed my skirt ensembles by adding fun and texture to the look. I wore everything from micro-fishnets and geometric patterns to animal prints and polka dots. There was an excellent assortment this season and I’m thinking of stocking up.
• 80’s influences: We’re entering our third year of 80’s fashion inspiration and it’s loads of fun re-living and actually re-wearing the looks.

Another fabulous fashion season. I say that every time because there’s always something to like if you’re open to trying something new. Your turn ladies. What were your favourite trends this season?

The knit biker jacket is a super option for those who like the biker look, but prefer the comfort of a sweater jacket. Stretchy and cozy like knitwear but with lots of spunk and edge.

You’ll find these types of knit biker jackets in woolen knits and cotton knits. They’re definitely more casual and less crisp looking than their woven counterparts but a nice product all the same. Wear them in the same way bring out the rock chick in you.

I’ve found that going up a size in hosiery is often a good idea if you’re regular height or taller. For example, if you usually wear a medium, try a large. Or if you’d normally fall into the “C range”, size up to “D”.

Going up a size reduces the stretch, making colors more even and reducing pattern distortion. It also lowers the risk of laddering and increases the longevity of the hose, which is particularly good if you prefer the better quality, more expensive brands.

Saggy hose is unsightly, so don’t go up more than one size. If you are petite the stretch is already less than average, so you may not need to size up at all.

Quilted puffer coats, or parkas, are the way to keep warm when temperatures plummet. You won’t look like a marshmallow in this style of coat if you’re mindful about fit, style and shape. Here are some guidelines to help you pick the perfect puffer:

• Keep it tailored: It is ESSENTIAL that a puffer is tailored in the torso, fitted in the shoulder and streamlined against the hips. The fit must come in at the waist and at the base of the back. A slightly A-line silhouette is fine, but a straight silhouette is better.
• Select a flatter puff: Some puffers are more heavily quilted than others. The flatter the puff the more streamlined you’ll look. Bypass overly puffy coats because those look unattractive.
• Choose a flattering length: Extra-long puffers that finish halfway between the knee and ankle are super warm, but don’t look fab. You look like you’re wrapped up in a sleeping bag. Try to keep the length at the knee and no longer (in extreme cold, your knee-high boots can keep you warm from the knee down). Shorter styles that finish between the top of the hip and the middle of the thigh are great lengths too.
• Stick to vertical seaming details: Stay away from puffer styles with horizontal stitch detailing. This draws the eye from side to side. Look for vertical stitch detailing instead. Angular or chevron stitching is just as flattering because it draws the eye to the waistline.
• Choose down quilting: Less expensive puffers are usually quilted with polyester, which won’t keep you warm. You’re after a down coat for maximum warmth and coziness.
• Choose hoods and shawls: Hooded puffer coats are extremely practical. (I’ve found that wearing a hood is warmer than wearing a hat). Hoods trimmed with faux fur are especially attractive and add a soft playfulness and interesting texture to your look. Puffers with insulating shawl collars instead of hoods make a nice alternative when worn with a hat and scarf.
• Prioritize two-way zips: A puffer that un-zips a little at the bottom while the top stays zipped allows freedom of moment. This makes sitting down and walking with a  bulky coat comfortable and easy.

Winter chills have hit us a little earlier and harder than expected this year. Bundle up in style with a streamlined puffer coat. They are a very worthwhile investment if you have icy, snowy Winters.

Three shorter, tailored puffer coats with vertical and angular stitching. Two of them have belt features that add extra waist definition, and the cropped black style has a convenient two-way zip. The cream puffer looks particularly après-ski with its removable faux fur neckline trim.

Three long tailored puffer coats with vertical and chevron stitch detailing and practical side-entry pockets. Two of the styles have detachable hoods and one of them has a pretty faux fur trim.

I have three puffer coats in different lengths and colours. A cropped black style, a fancier mid-length gold style and a long cream version. I’ve had the black cropped style for five years and it’s still going strong. I can’t imagine my Winters without them.

It is hard to make a general rule about the amount of skin you should show between the top of your boots and the hem of your skirt. There are just too many variables. The style of the boots, the silhouette of the skirt, your height, your body type and the hosiery you wear are all factors in the equation. I’ve seen everything work: from thigh-high minis with calf length boots, to mid-calf skirts and knee-high boots.

One combination that seems to work on almost everyone right now is a knee-length skirt or dress worn with knee-high boots. Experimentation will reveal whether you should show the knee cap, show just part of the knee cap or cover the knee completely. Hose keeps you warm and often finishes the look, but isn’t a necessity.

Personally, I like my skirt and boots combination best when my kneecap is covered and there’s a hint of skin before the top of the boot (either with or without hose). I also like to wear skirt and boot ensembles that show no skin at all. Occasionally I’ll wear a skirt or dress that shows my entire knee cap but that’s rare. In these shorter skirt instances, I’ve found that adding monochromatic textured hose gives my legs more shape.

Have you found your skirt-skin-boots sweet spot, or is it still a mystery?

Mini-skirts with calf length and knee-high boot combinations, each showing a different amount of space between the hem of the skirt and the top of the boots.

Longer skirt styles showcasing less or no leg space between the end of the skirt and the top of the boots. This is my personal skirt-skin-boots sweet spot.

Short (calf or ankle length), “tough-looking” boots are back in style. A bit of biker buckle, a sturdy low heel, a bulky toe and playful top stitching makes for a fab, casual and weatherproof Winter look. They are cute under wider jeans, over skinnies, with casual knitwear and with the odd skirt or dress. Their laid-back and untailored appeal is a nice alternative to fashion sneakers and Converse. I had a brown pair in the early 90’s that I wore with Levi 501’s and, you guessed it, a button down shirt.

Short rugged boots seem more mainstream and wearable than the classic Doc Marten because the design detail varies and you can choose a more refined style. I think the look is cool and I’d wear them again in an instant. Are they your cup of tea?

It’s great to see a wide range of footwear product in store – from the super pointy-toed stiletto to these boots. As much as I like pretty, dainty and feminine things, I fancy the look of boyish, hard-core looking items too. I’m thoroughly enjoying this fashion revival and suspect that it will be around for a while.