Una, I'm another for whom it just depends on the item, the season, the price. Even if I love it, if the price is so high that I would be devastated if it got damaged, I will leave it. On the other hand, I've found that going too cheap with a trend that I want to try is often not a fair test because quality influences how much I may reach for something. (cheap leggings, for example). My pricey choice is usually EF. I wait for sales or coupons and should try Ebay, rather than buy at full price most of the time.

Honestly I often find something I like, buy it, and only later realize it is a knock off or inspired by item. This happens to me all. the. time. My fun blue $5 cuff from China off eBay. Over a year later I realize it's a Hermes look alike. Oh, okay. http://www.spottedfashion.com/.....e/#prettyP
So for me, design elements come first and foremost. If I like, and can afford, the original yay. If a cheaper, but comparable item comes up and I like it enough, I'll go for that. I would buy DV look alike booties instead of Rag & Bone Harrows, for example. Unless the Harrows went on sale under $200.

I too buy knockoffs all the time without realizing it. If I ever do realize it, it's fine with me. I agree that if you truly fall in love with an original, it's going to be hard to feel satisfied with a substitute. I'm sure this has happened to me, either buying the original when nothing else would do, or buying a substitute and not feeling happy, but I can't think of specific examples.

Sometimes there is a difference in quality, sometimes the same things are made in one factory and different labels are slapped on at the end of the line.
I won't pay extra for the cachet of a designer name, but I will pay more for fair trade goods that provide better earnings for the workers who made the item.

Like Echo said. And how much a particular detail attracted me to an item.
Angie has posted some luxe sweatshirts lately. There are some all white ones, and one with a fantastic citron print. I could probably find a substitute that made me happy as giggles at the look and the money I saved. But the citron one, probably just feel like I settled for something I didn't want.

Summarizing my own thought, is it a particular detail that attracts, or the "bones" of the garment? White belts are mostly white belts, to my eye, but my new black shoes with the silver heel aren't just a black shoe. I think good bones are easier to find at the lower price points than details that look stylish.

When I've fallen for a particular item, a copycat doesn't satisfy me. But, if I'm trying to incorporate some trend/interesting new look, the particular designer isn't the important part. So I guess another way to say that is I'm happy with inspired-by for most things. Sometimes the inspired-by things are from equally expensive brands, or even more expensive. Trends usually start with one label and then a few other similar brands roll out their own versions... for most things I don't know exactly where it started. It's only the really iconic items that end up feeling like I don't want a copycat version.

Una - very interesting and thought provoking post. I think in the last couple of years I've gravitated toward waiting for the original. I bought the Valentino Rockstuds in black. I have never, ever spent that much for a pair of shoes and I doubt I ever will again. I really needed dress shoes and I could not find anything I liked, until I saw them. I fell hard for those shoes. I've alway loved a closed pointy toe sling back and I don't like that type of shoe as much as I love that shoe, every single element of that shoe. Plus they are comfortable and perfectly balanced. I felt so divine wearing them for an event. I know that a substitute would always have felt like a poor cousin and my loves tend to be long lasting so I will be taking those babies for a spin into the next millenium. On HL, I'm on a jacket jag. I've never put on jackets that were so plumb, hitting every possible sweet spot. Also the way he cuts the neck, it makes my neck look long and swan like. The tailoring is not only gorgeously done but I can start to see how construction can make out bodies look their best while making the article completely comfortable. It was a revelation. I can see how buy less but buy better is really where I want to go, but better can be the perfect gap tank too, if that makes sense.

For jewelry (which I looooooove) I buy whatever the nicest piece I can afford is. On other items like denim jackets or jeans or such, I buy whatever is reasonably well made and affordable.

An interesting discussion Una! For me it's ALL about the details. As Angie said, the details that are important to you are the ones that should be focused on. If it's a design element (or two) then finding a substitute with them could work as long as those details are satisfied. If it's the designer itself, substituting can be tricky to unworkable. If it's a trend then you can pick the details yourself, especially if you're in the situation where you just want a version to get playing with.

To me, when looking at new purchases if one can focus on what it is specifically that we're drawn to then we can determine whether a substitute would work or if we should just stick to the original. Of course that can be a tricky thing! Sometimes it's hard to tell what it is that's the true draw until we own/wear an item for a while.

Re the TB florals, I think since the detail that you're attracted to his that design aesthetic, an acceptable substitute will be very difficult to find; in this case, I vote get the original when you can find it.

Great discussion. I agree with what several others, including gryffin, have said -- if the fit details are perfect, then the original is the one I want. Not that I really own any true designer originals. But even the "higher end" item (like my Reiss jacket). The fit is so much better than any of the others I tried -- it's worth it to me.

Fit is probably more key than any other detail, from my point of view. Otherwise, I suspect I'm like many others who say that they don't even know they are buying knockoffs when they are buying them! That may change as my interest in fashion increases, but I have almost zero designer name loyalty or even interest -- it's the design vs. the designer, if you know what I mean. So if I find the design and details I want at the knockoff price, why wouldn't I take it? It doesn't feel like a "substitute" in that case.