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Shortening a t-shirt

Brooklyn

Veteran

I noticed in JenniNZ’s post a lot of people were saying that having a tee shortened is an easy alteration.

This has not been my experience. I have paid multiple times to have a tee shortened only to be given back a top with a wavy hem.

My understanding is that is not that easy to re-hem a stretchy knit. Woven fabrics are much easier.

I want to suggest 2 alternative methods (hacks) that have worked for me.

(If you do try one of these methods, I suggest trying it on an old tee first to make sure that you are happy with the results.)

Feel free to add any other suggestions to this post. I would especially like to hear from the dressmakers amongst us.

Method 1:

Just cut the excess fabric off.

This will result in the (unfinished) hem rolling over time. It doesn’t fray.

Pics 1-2 show some tees with a cut hem. Both tees are Free People.

I quite like this look. I find this method useful for:
*Older tops that I don’t want to spend time or money on.
*Tops that I have DIY dyed. Usually the stitching does not take the dye. If I dye the top a dark colour, that leads to a contrasting hem. Sometimes that bothers me, so I cut the hem off.

Caveats:

You should put a couple of stitches in the bottom of the side seams to prevent them opening up after you cut off the hem. This is easily done by hand.

If the t-shirt is printed the back of the fabric usually is not. You may not like the rolled hem showing the back of the fabric.

I don’t think this works for ribbed tops. The fabric does not seem to roll.

Method 2:

Re-use the factory hem. I got this method from YouTube and have used it multiple times with 100% success. (Note: my sewing skills are basic so this is a wonder to me.)

I use a straight *stretch* stitch rather than a narrow zig zag stitch as suggested in the video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wJFBvZvScrk

Pic 3 shows a top I shortened using this method.

Caveat:

You have to iron the hem of your t-shirt after each wash. It tends to want to kick up after washing.

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General

27 replies

Latest reply was from RobinF

Suz

(website)

Veteran

So interesting, Brooklyn! I think the "rollability" might depend on fabrication. I think it works on cottons but not necessarily on knits of other materials? Not 100% sure, but I suspect that some might fray instead of roll. But your other solution is the way that I've seen it done by alterationists / sewists that I know.

Irina

Veteran

What seems like a simple alteration is in fact a technical challenge for a lot of seamstresses. I’ve heard about the second method but haven’t tried. I have, however tried to simply cut off the hem of a t-shirt. Didn’t work for me, it somehow got stretched.

My seamstress bought a special add on piece for her sawing machine to make stitching like a factory made.

Bijou

Veteran

Brooklyn thank you for this information. I have a few t-shirts that I would like to have shortened, with my local seamstress having done one t-shirt for me beautifully but it cost $50. I will have to try out the other two methods on some less than precious t-shirts that are not being worn because they are too long.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Suz, sorry, I’m not sure if I understand correctly. I think the first method works for a regular cotton tee in a knit (not woven). It’s the knit that causes the fabric to roll. As long as it’s not ribbed. Also, maybe if it’s a thick cotton, it won’t roll because of the weight of the fabric.

Irina, yes, that’s my experience. It’s not that easy! I also found YouTube videos where they used tape to assist in creating a new hem, but that was way too advanced for me.

Here are another 2 rolled hem tees. The first one I bought that way. It’s a 100% cotton knit. The second I cut off myself yesterday (also 100% cotton). You can see the hem has already started to roll.

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Brooklyn

Veteran

Bijou, that’s my thinking, especially with method 1. You can always just cut off the hem and see if the fabric rolls and if you like the look. That way, if you don’t, you can still get it professionally hemmed if you want.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Here is a video on the cut method (method 1).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UBSRS6oLOfM

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Sorry for the confusion. I just meant I thought that a 100% cotton knit might roll better than a knit made of a blend, of, say, viscose and cotton (or whqtevere). But I could be entirely wrong about that!

Brooklyn

Veteran

Ah, I see! Yes, I think you could be right. Viscose is tricky! But I suspect a little bit of elastane (which is common in cotton tees) wouldn’t matter.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

Well thanks for the advice Brooklyn! I have not pinned it yet or talked to the local seamstress. I will be upset if the cost is going to be $50 as Bijou suggests. I think in NZ or Australia where our minimum wages are higher then the costs may well be more than in the US, but we’ll see. The factory hem is nice with a nice double row of stitching.

Brooklyn

Veteran

I might add you can also use method 1 to shorten the sleeves of a t-shirt.

I tried method 2 to shorten the sleeves of a tee but it proved to be tricky because the cut sleeve diameter was not the same as the diameter of the sleeve hem.

Brooklyn

Veteran

Good luck Jenni! I’d expect it to cost at least $30 here. That’s what it costs to have my jeans hemmed, which is an easier job. I’m not surprised it cost Bijou $50. I’ve been quoted that for skirt hems, which are trickier than jeans.

Star

Veteran

I am not a sewer but I had a close friend who was. She shortened many tees for me. I understand that it needs to be done with an 'overlocker' to prevent waviness on stretchy fabric

Brooklyn

Veteran

Star, I had one top that came back with a beautifully overlocked hem but still wavy. I was so sad about it. I wonder if it takes special skills or patience (even with the right tools)? Maybe it’s hard to assess the stretchiness of the fabric.

ETA: by that I mean maybe it’s hard to get the tension right. But I don’t know enough about it!

Lisa

Veteran

I’ve never had tees shortened but this is so interesting. I have a lots of tees and a strong fondness for them so I’m taking notes for the future, thanks for sharing!

RobinF

Veteran

I have been chopping off all of my tees lately. I quite like the look. I have done it to some sleeves too. I'm sure not all of my tees are 100% cotton but they feel like cotton. I am not sure what a viscose blend would do since I haven't tried that.

I have also used a double needle to hem tees. It worked pretty well. I didn't wave but it did pucker a little bit, but probably only noticeable if looking at it very closely.

RobinF

Veteran

This is the type of needle I used.

9 Pcs Twin Needles for Sewing Machine, Double Needles Sewing Machine Needles with 3 Pcs Different Groove Pintuck Presser Foot Twin Needles for Household Sewing Machine 3 Size 2/90 3/90 4/90

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Jules

Veteran

This is super interesting. It’s actually never occurred to me to want a tee shirt shortened - despite being short waisted and hippy. I like the rolled effect and will keep this in mind for future.

sarah

Veteran

Interesting! I've actually had good luck getting tees shortened with my local neighborhood tailor. But I'm wondering if this method would work for hemming jeans to keep the "weathered" look of the factory hem?

JAileen

Veteran

Brooklyn, I haven’t had the problems you mentioned. I sewed the hems by hand. That’s why I mentioned making sure the thread isn’t too tight. Here’s a polyester knit top I shortened a year or two ago. It was too long and I couldn’t wear it. I cut at least two inches off. I put in a line of pins, following the original hemline, and then folded over the fabric and pinned, and sewed by hand, allowing lots of give. This hem was also curved. It looks a little like Frankenstein inside - that’s for the give. The top hangs beautifully. It wasn’t difficult and didn’t cost $50, either.

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JP

Veteran

Those are good options, Brooklyn. I am sharing my method. I have shortened a lot of T-shirt material tops (mostly for my petite mom) and the trick is to use Heat n Bond iron on hem tape. I cut the length, serge/overlock and apply the hem tape, it's about 3/4" (about 2 cm) then use a double needle to sew. It comes out perfectly, no waves or puckering and looks almost like the original. You could actually skip the sewing if you want to.
https://www.sewingpartsonline......3dcfb11fde

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thanks, Brooklyn! Very informative, and super duper tee hacks. Great results

YES. Shortening knits like tees can be tricky. They stretch as you sew them, so you need the right machines that use the right threads and needles. Hence the wavy hems if the tools are incorrect.

I've had Greg's tees, client's tees/ knitted dresses, and my mesh tops shortened at Nordstrom and my tailor - results are perfect. To your point, some clients had theirs done at the dry cleaners with wavy results because they didn't have the right tools.

A good alterations person should tell you whether they have the right machines for knits. I've had that happen and was grateful for the transparency.

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

Those are good techniques--and results! Thanks for sharing them, Brooklyn.

And nice job, JAileen, too. (That example looks to me like a rayon or polyester knit that wouldn't roll, by the way.)

I've used the twin needle on a sewing machine (like what Robin shows and JP mentions). I never had great luck with it, but I know others who have used them with great success.

Angie is correct--knits and their many varieties make the process tricky. And the machines make a big difference. I have a combination serger (or overlock) and coverstitch (or coverhem) machine that can handle about any kind of knit, so I am fortunate and a bit spoiled. Even with the coverstitch machine, I often use a product like the one JP links to, to keep the hem perfectly in place as I stitch it.

For some reason, I'm never excited about doing alterations, even though it's nice to have them finished, and I enjoy having a wearable garment again. So when friends ask if I will alter something for them--even one of those "easy" tasks--I usually politely decline!

Joyce B

Veteran

Great idea, thank you for sharing.
Like @JP mentioned, I was also thinking of using a fusible tape or a spray-on fusible, that should avoid the waviness.
Sewing store sections have a lot of very interesting supplies that I have recently discovered.

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Brooklyn thank you for the education! One should never assume, as I did, that something is easy without actual knowledge. (I am in extracting life lesson phase of things .)

Kyle

Veteran

I have used your “cut it off and let it roll” option and am intrigued by the second method of re-using the existing hem. Thank you!

Brooklyn

Veteran

Thanks everyone. I’m glad this was of interest.

Sarah, I think method 2 would work for keeping the original hem of jeans. I’m sure I’ve seen YouTube videos on it.

I’ve learned something too. I didn’t know that there were double needles! But it makes sense. It would make it much easier to get that nice double line of stitching.

I have heard about the hem tape but it always seems a little too hard for me. I may give it a try after this post.

Firecracker, I don’t blame you not wanting to volunteer! I hate doing alterations, hems etc.

But I would like to fix a top that I had shortened unsuccessfully a while back. That was when I decided I would not be having this type of alteration done anymore. It’s a rayon blend knit top. I think I will try doing it by hand like JAileen. Possibly with the hem tape to add a bit of weight. Nothing ventured, nothing gained

RobinF

Veteran

Sarah - I have actually done that with jeans and it works well. It can make the hem a little stiffer than the original but not bad. But I often follow the chop-it-off school for jeans too. So quick and easy