Kari raises a good question -- do the purged pieces get purged right away before wear, or after an unsuccessful wearing or two -- and what about them makes them unsatisfying?

OR -- and this is possibly a scarier thought -- do you simply like to have this variety in the wardrobe?

I say "scarier" because I know you and I would both like to think of ourselves as wardrobe "moderates." And if we aim to keep a moderate, responsible closet, it is scary to contemplate the thought that endless variety might be more than a bit of an addiction!

But maybe it's okay to allow ourselves a middle place here? I am beginning to think that it might be okay to build in the expectation of a certain amount of "churn." Perhaps, for example, "allowing" up to 5 purchases a season in the full knowledge that they might be edited out by the end of that season -- as with my Zara kimono or a few of your seasonal thrifted items.

I am wondering, for myself, if setting a limit on this per season might help me become very mindful about those purchases as well. Which trends do I REALLY want to jump on, as trends? Where do I really want to spend my "fling" money? How much of my budget per season will I set aside for the "flings." Where will I purchase those items? (I.e. what is the most responsible or least destructive way of buying them?) What will I do when I tire of those items? These are the kinds of questions I'm going to ask myself.

IMHO, you've been doing really well. It takes a great deal of self knowledge and experience to be able to identify exactly what is going to be perfect for our wardrobes and daily life. Anyone who is building their wardrobe, or going through a style transition is going to find that some of their clothing purchases just don't work out.

Often the expensive items work out because due to their expense, we've spent extensive time thinking about how we'd wear them and scrutinizing the fit. We hold less expensive items to lower standards. We can find PPP clothes at any budget, but it takes time and experience to recognize them.

You're already very organized and thoughtful with your wardrobe and you're doing the seasonal analysis. I wouldn't be surprised if you found that your keep/purge ratio dramatically improved next season.

All I can say Ingunn, is ME TOO! I thought when I started keeping only ten core items a season that I would really hone in on my style and reduce closet churn to nothing. Well, I'm sorry to say that it hasn't happened. I'm a perfectionist and I tend to beat myself up over this (next month marks three years at YLF, surely I should have it all figured out by now), but I'm beginning to wonder if some amount of over-buying and then winnowing out is the only way for me to find my true "keepers". Sometimes I feel like I'm panning for gold: 1) Scoop up some water and gravel into my pan. 2) Swirl around and look for sparkly bits and hope I've got one. 3) Discard the dirt. 4) Repeat throughout the season. 5) Oops, that gold nugget was actually fool's gold. 6) Begin again.

I like Suz's idea of expecting to build some but also to churn some. I can't limit the churn to a number though, I would have to purge the things that are wrong, even if I went over some arbitrary number I may have set.

I think you're doing a great job Ingunn. You have an amazing wardrobe, and it's only natural to have a few misses. We can all shoot for less mistakes, but unless we're Angie, I doubt any of us have a perfect buying record.

It sure is comforting to read your advice and pampering words. I'm glad Im not alone in this. A lot of what you write resonates with me, and I will go back and read everything again very carefully when I'm back this evening (now it's morning here, and I'm about to start my day). Thanks!

Wow, you are very well organized with your new garments. I think I have to do the same to better look into my shopping.

Ingunn, the fact that you posed this means that you are already learning a lot about your wardrobe. I would suggest, taking a break from shopping (not only thrifting) for a season and really step back and ponder. Think about how some pieces are so much more loved than others. How much variety do you want in your closet? How easily can you mix and match existing pieces? etc.
Also, you have learnt from thrifting that all this buying and purging does not make you happy so I would say that all the experimentation helped you develop this insight about yourself. You will not make this shopping mistake again.

What a GREAT evaluation. Another type of evaluation that would be so instructional for me. I can't do this because it never occurred to me to take snapshots of clothes items, and once the item has been removed my wardrobe, it is also deleted from my spreadsheet as though it never existed. Still much food for thought here.

I imagine many of us would have similar results if we tracked our shopping this way. I see at least 6 tops in my current wardrobe that I've worn only once or twice but thought I loved at first sight. Mostly it's something too bright (in color or pattern) for me to enjoy on a regular basis - or it doesn't end up being truly comfortable in some way - too hot, too stiff, or sometimes too thin. But I do like to try new things so I won't completely stop buying those wildcards once in a while. I also have a tendency to hold on to things I've had for years and wore a lot at one time but now only wear once in a while.

I think your exercise will help you to hone in on what suits you now. and it's just an ongoing process in finding what makes you happy in fashion.

I like Mona's idea to take a little break. I can't help but wonder if amassing too quickly (whether it's thrift or retail) is the contributing factor. I know that, for myself, I've never had the opportunity to grab a dozen or more items at a time or shop for a season's worth of clothing. I don't end up with a lot of mistakes. Sure, I have them. But I've averaged just under 40 items per year last year and purged about 6. So, maybe going slowly and carefully assessing each purchase before moving on to the next will lend itself to better choices? I know my No Buy July is making me rethink what I really want my last 6 or so items this year to be. Perhaps my made up parameters (budget $$ and number of items allowed) are what force me to make different decisions and choices than if I had free range to shop at will.

I just can't get over how analytical you are with your wardrobe - I have so much to learn! What a great tool to have spreadsheets of your wardrobe pieces! I can't add much to what others have already suggested, but I am definitely taking away some good ideas from this. Thank you SO much for sharing your process.

It took me a while to figure out my style and while I did I purchased and purged many items, very quickly. Also poor fit and getting distracted by impulse purchases meant a high turnover rate for my wardrobe. Zeroing in on my style, core colors and ideal fit of items, it helping me to control my shopping.

There are too many great thoughts and answers to this thread for me to take in at once, but I've tried to answer to some of it:

Susie:

You didn't wear many of the gray items
You did wear navy items
You like more modern/sophisticated patterns?
You do well with selecting more casual footwear and accessories like belts and bags....I think you've already mentioned that you don't wear dressier pieces, like the sandals
If I go to someplace like Old Navy where the prices are really low, I'll simply buy too many pieces and even duplicates. Like if I like this in white, why not get gray and blue too? Or I get in too much of a hurry to fill a need- this spring it was casual cotton tops- and I settle for things that are just ok.

You are definitely pointing at several aspects to my habits that I haven’t thought through thoroughly yet. My preferred neutral right now is navy, that is definitely true. I like gray, but I don’t have much of it, and I don’t wear it a lot. I’m drawn to a simpler, more urban style right now, so that might be part of why I’m purging this way. I’m also guilty of not being patient enough, and like you say, settling for things that are just ok. I think my shoe collection is heading in the right addition. After I started focusing on better and more booties and boots, plus sneakers, I like it a lot more.

Joy:
I do best going with those first instincts when looking in the mirror. If I have to think too much about it, it should probably stay in the store

Thanks a lot for the link, Joy! It was really helpful. I agree that it is very important to listen to your instincts. For instance my new black booties: I tried them on months ago, and it was instant love, but they were out of my budget. I finally got the opportunity to buy them, and from the minute I put them on, I just knew. There was never any doubt, and I’m sure I will wear them all the time when the holidays are over.

E:
I think the key to successful but minimal secondhand shopping is to make a list of criteria and items beforehand, then stick very closely to it.

You are so right, E. I’ve tried this, but I get sidetracked too easily, I guess. I will make the list again - if and when I go thrifting.

Sarah:
1) invest more in classic timeless pieces that could be paired with a variety of styles. When I say invest I mean something a little more quality and cost than what I have been spending on my boring t shirts and jeans uniform. My thinking is that these would be the work horses or foundation of my wardrobe.
2) Try new items but don't spend a lot on them. If they end up being something I love than replace with higher quality.
3) start to think in outfits and capsules instead of pieces. I just started playing around with polyvore with one outfit and already know what I have to look for on my next shopping trip.
4) stay educated in trends, styles, likes and dislikes by following fashion blogs, YLF, and pin to Pinterest.

Sarah:
I did in fact buy a white basic t-shirt that was about three times as expensive as the ones I normally get. It has held up great in wear and wash, and I haven’t regretted it for a second. I have mixed experience with trying new items, but that’s the name f the game, isn’t it? We need to experiment a little, too. Outfits and capsules: I’ve been doing this for a while, and I love to play with capsules. They are great for getting more wear out of what we already have. I pin a lot, too.

Ummilla:
Most of my wardrobe mistakes have been made not so much in the designer Final Sale situation as they have in a scenario like: Oh look, a high end yet affordable navy pencil skirt. Everyone needs a skirt like that. It will go with so many things. It fits well. I have 2 jackets that it would match. But in reality, said pencil skirt is still in the closet, because it's kind of boring.

Me too! I’ve done this! It’s too easy when the label is attractive in itself.

Rabbit:

1) Like E says, only go looking for that one item you are in search of, and know exactly the fit, material and cut you want.

2) If you think you have found it have it held for an hour or two, and check at the mall (if they are close by) for similar items to check both the price and the design details/fit. For example I found white Kut from the Kloth knee length jean shorts at thrift, but at the mall discovered by trying on a size up that I actually preferred the larger fit of the same item.

3) Go to a thrift shop with no or a very restrictive return policy, this makes me only buy what I'm absolutely committed to. I walk away if I'm not sure. I can check back later in the week if it's still haunting me, and if it's gone, c'est la vie.

You are so right. I need to become a lot more picky and patient to get my purge quota down. I like the idea of looking for a HEWI instead of just shopping.

Suz:

You and I can keep each other on the straight and narrow about shoes and booties, okay? I think our needs are very, very similar both in terms of climate and lifestyle.

But maybe it's okay to allow ourselves a middle place here? I am beginning to think that it might be okay to build in the expectation of a certain amount of "churn." Perhaps, for example, "allowing" up to 5 purchases a season in the full knowledge that they might be edited out by the end of that season -- as with my Zara kimono or a few of your seasonal thrifted items.

Suz, we can! I agree, our climates and lifestyles seem to be very similar. Not that much need for dressy sandals, no? I completely agree that a churn of a few pieces is okay, and it is part of the fun in this. I don’t mind that, either.

Gaylene:
But you've raised a good point: if most of us are experiencing only a 1 in 2 success rate with our purchases that means we are literally throwing away away 50% of our wardrobe budget.

That would be terrible! Luckily, I didn’t purge as much as 50% of what I bought. Some of the less worn pieces are necessary for me, and will be staying of a long time. I’ve also crunched my numbers and I think I’ve spent about 15% of my total budget on the purged pieces. That is too much, but it is not 50%.

Kari:
Can you think about the pieces you bought but haven't worn much, and assess why they haven't got much use? Are they too different/hard to pair with the rest of your wardrobe? Is there something slightly off about the fit or comfort factor that causes you to avoid them?

These are great questions and I will examine a few of my pieces with those in mind. I will definitely get some answers. (Cream silk blouse, I’m looking at you).

Sylvie:
Often the expensive items work out because due to their expense, we've spent extensive time thinking about how we'd wear them and scrutinizing the fit. We hold less expensive items to lower standards. We can find PPP clothes at any budget, but it takes time and experience to recognize them.

Yes! This is so true. I generally love my more expensive pieces, probably because I never impulse shop for those.

Claire:
I like Suz's idea of expecting to build some but also to churn some. I can't limit the churn to a number though, I would have to purge the things that are wrong, even if I went over some arbitrary number I may have set.

I couldn’t agree more. Sticking to a fixed number doesn’t work well for me, but I could definitely try to limit myself more. There is a middle road, isn’t there?

Mona:
I would suggest, taking a break from shopping (not only thrifting) for a season and really step back and ponder. Think about how some pieces are so much more loved than others. How much variety do you want in your closet? How easily can you mix and match existing pieces? etc.
Also, you have learnt from thrifting that all this buying and purging does not make you happy so I would say that all the experimentation helped you develop this insight about yourself. You will not make this shopping mistake again.

I will definitely reconsider my thrifting and stop, or cut back a lot on it. I’m not quite sure if I need to go on a complete SYC, but I agree, it could clarify things for me. Thank you for pointing me in this direction.

Texstyle:
Mostly it's something too bright (in color or pattern) for me to enjoy on a regular basis - or it doesn't end up being truly comfortable in some way - too hot, too stiff, or sometimes too thin. But I do like to try new things so I won't completely stop buying those wildcards once in a while. I also have a tendency to hold on to things I've had for years and wore a lot at one time but now only wear once in a while.

I have many times sensed that we have more than a few preferences in common in regards of fabrics, textures, fit. The color might be slightly off (yellow mohair sweater, I’m staring at you), the garment is a little too tight, or it moves in the wrong way. Still the wildcard are great fun, too, but I think I need fewer of them.

Mo:
I can't help but wonder if amassing too quickly (whether it's thrift or retail) is the contributing factor. I know that, for myself, I've never had the opportunity to grab a dozen or more items at a time or shop for a season's worth of clothing.

You have a point. I could slow down more. This is why it is great to step out of the shopping/wearing/purging cycle once in a while. I’ve actually not been shopping a lot lately, and it has been really good.

Lisa:
It took me a while to figure out my style and while I did I purchased and purged many items, very quickly. Also poor fit and getting distracted by impulse purchases meant a high turnover rate for my wardrobe. Zeroing in on my style, core colors and ideal fit of items, it helping me to control my shopping.

I guess many of us follow this path after joining YLF. It is very stimulating to get to learn so much about fashion and style, and it is also stimulating to see what the other fabbers are wearing. I think I know my style a lot better now than in the beginning, and I hope it will start showing in my shopping soon, too. Your project has been very stimulating and I've learned so much from following you.

Thank you, everyone. I knew I wasn't brave when showing you this - you are true friends.




Ingunn, I actually agree with you and Claire that a fixed number (for how many pieces one is "allowed" to replace) is not a good idea -- although maybe having some kind of ballpark in mind for "fun fling" pieces isn't a bad idea. The thing is -- some of those "flings" might become marriages! That can happen when we try a new style we aren't sure of -- and fall in love after trying it out! And that is a great thing. Meanwhile, the item we thought we'd adore forever mysteriously gets no love. Maybe the weather's wrong, the occasion doesn't arise, it isn't quite as comfortable as we'd expected.

I still have some thinking to do on this subject. I think Lisa's DH suggested to her, following her successful "boutique" experiment this year, that she might consider a "churn" of around 1/3 of her wardrobe per season! That's a very generous "allowance" but I think it was meant to include items that are actually worn out and no good any more in addition to those that one simply tires of, or those that never really worked as well as planned.

Ingunn, I get sidetracked easily too! That's why I added my disclaimer at the end.

Also, sometimes an item seems great in the fitting room, but then for all day wear it proves to have issues. I don't think there's always a way to foresee that happening, unfortunately (I do remember to sit down in fitting rooms to test trousers that way, but it's still not the same as 12 hours of wear), and that easily leads to culling.

Lots of things to think about here. I suspect a lot of us who don't track this sort of thing as well have an inaccurate idea of how long we keep things and how often we wear them. I agree with Suz that expecting a certain amount of churn - from things wearing out as well as newer items that just don't work as well as we expect - is totally reasonable. If we define 'purged' as something that doesn't last past one season, one fourth to one third seems... maybe a little high but not crazy.

Taking a pause from thrifting might help see things more clearly, but frequent shopping of any kind can be the cause too. I think that off price retailers (TJ Maxx and its ilk) are more of a problem for me than thrift stores, because at least at thrift stores I may get a higher quality item and spend less.

I've been throwing around the idea to limit myself to a couple of shopping trips per season and that's it (including online). It would force me to be more methodical and do less impromptu browsing.