Formula Dressing - Me? (long)

When I first joined YLF (almost 12 years ago!) I did not consider myself a formula dresser. I wore lots of skirts and dresses but also jeans and shorts, and the silhouettes and support act were all very different and varied. And I've gone through a lot of changes since then, because I like variety and newness. I'll fall into love with a style, wear it for years, then get over it and not wear it for more years. (And sometimes I fall in love all over again.)

A few years ago, some key pieces came together in a way that made an outfit I really adored. Instead of being a single awesome outfit, however, I figured out how to replicate it. Buying some pieces, sewing some, plotting how to remix existing items.

Fast forward to today. The original formula is still going strong, and I've just recently realized I do have other formulas. With regard to outerwear in particular; the silhouette dictates what kind and length of topper will work.

One of my goals is to sketch out the outfit formulas. Because then I can more easily identify where wardrobe holes are, and focus my shopping. It's so annoying to open the jammed coat closet and yet not have the right kind of jacket, without knowing exactly what I do need to fill it.

This is mostly for me but I don't mind any comments or thoughts!

Hot Weather

Fit-and-flare short sleeve dress, sandals, hat (work/everyday)
Denim shorts, tee or graphic t-shirt, sandals or light tennis shoes (weekends)
Nicer fit-and-flare short sleeve dress, heeled sandals or pumps, cardigan (church/dress up)
Full linen skirt, long or short sleeve thin blouse, sandals, hat, possibly belt (work/everyday) (not for really hot weather)

Cold Weather

Full heavier skirt, long sleeve tee or sweater, cardigan if needed, tights, flat casual shoes or boots (work/everyday)
Jeans, long sleeve tee, flannel shirt/cardigan/soft jacket/sweatshirt if needed, flat casual shoes (weekends)
Knit long sleeve fit-and-flare dress, long hoodie, tights, casual flat shoes or boots (work/everyday)
Full skirt, blouse or thin sweater, cardigan or belt, hose, heeled pumps or boots (church/dress up)
Nicer long sleeve dress, cardigan if needed, heeled pumps or boots (church/dress up)

In-between weather is missing. So far I haven't invented a new formula for it.

If it's chilly in the morning but gets fairly hot, adding a cardigan to the dress or skirt and blouse formula works okay. Sometimes adding tights in the morning as well, though it's annoying to put them back on if it gets chilly at night.
If it's downright cold in the morning but gets truly warm in the sun, that's just hard! Maybe I need to try layering more over a long sleeve blouse, like cardigan + poncho. As well as tights.

Notes - I work at home and take a walk around the neighborhood for a break. So unless it's hot enough to be barefoot I need footwear indoors, and walkable footwear for breaks.

These formulas particularly affect two things: Outerwear and footwear. For example:

- Full skirts don't work well with long coats, unless the coats are extremely full themselves. I have one miracle coat with a full circle skirt, and several other "cropped" jackets that fit my short waist. Bomber style is the most reliable, and juniors' cropped fashions. My pale pink moto is finally breaking down. :'(

- Ordinary hip-length jackets don't always fit me well even just with jeans. Pear shape. Two-way zippers are a godsend but those are mostly limited to longer, heavier coats. The long hoodies can work as light outerwear for jeans. I have a couple short hoodies which are curvy enough to work well, but they're not the most versatile colors. I have a saved search for two-way zip jackets and I'm experimenting with buttoning jackets, like the fleece shirt jacket, where I can button them partially.

- I prefer more delicate footwear with skirts and dresses, depending on the style. Sometimes skirt outfits are very refined (velvet skirt, nice sweater and jewelry) and sometimes they are casual (corduroy or linen skirt, flannel shirt or tweedy cardigan). Sometimes mary janes or ballet flats suit, sometimes suede moccasins.

- For cold weather, warm but cute and fairly waterproof tall boots. I just got cream-colored ones which are great with all the skirt outfits; sometimes black ones dragged down the colors.

- Also indoors footwear in cold weather. Short slippers aren't enough with just tights, nor slipper socks (the floor is cold). And socks aren't enough with jeans, but most of my slippers are either scuffs for summer or tall ones for skirts. I think that's a hole.

Other Notes:

There are no leggings formulas in this lineup. I went off leggings several years ago and they haven't gotten back into my rotation yet. Longer skirts are warmer and leggings are too hot for days that get warm. I'm slowly getting rid of the short dresses that aren't that flattering or cute to me any more.

10 months ago

rachylou

Veteran

Well defined with options!

How cold does it get in your area? Do you get snow? I’m thinking about coats, which is probably the most critical part of my wardrobe.

Jaime

(website)

Well done! I definitely hear you regarding coats that fit over some silhouettes. I don't think I am a uniform dresser, at least not consciously, but I do have certain things I look out for - tall boots for under shorter dresses for example.

Suz

This is a great analysis of your key silhouettes and needs. It can be surprisingly difficult to identify suitable at home footwear. For me, it has to be supportive and easy on/ easy off. Warm enough in winter, cool enough in summer. I feel like I still haven't found the perfect solutions, though I do at least have some options now.

Joy

This one is long, as you said. I will come back to give it time.

Bonnie

Very inspiring review. It's making me think about my own formulas.

Roberta

Hmm, a very interesting analysis of what you like, what you wear, and what works best. You have inspired me to write out something similar for myself.

I feel you with the coat problem! I sometimes look for coats that have zippers AND snaps or buttons. That gives you a lot of alternatives. If it warms up, I like to keep the coat minimally closed, but not zipped all the way up.

My cold weather slippers are Uggs short boots. I bought them for my frosty office when I was working, and now wear them all winter long.

When it's chilly in the morning and warmer when the sun comes out, I tend to grab a poncho or wrap rather than a cardigan. I own a couple of cardigans, but I find them a little fussy to pull on over other garments. I feel like I spent a lot of time adjusting the sleeve and the collar and the length front and back. A poncho or a wrap is easier to throw on and take off.

Anthropologie

Cascades Shawled Vest

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Cardiff girl

Sounds like you have really put some thought into this!You ve probably already done this but looking at vintage fashions where full skirts were a thing might help with coat choices as well.

Angie

Fashion Stylist

I echo Cardiff Girl!

Btw, I've had no problem wearing my own full skirt with long coats that are not full. This skirt and coat work beautifully together! The coat in longer on me than on the model. It glides over the skirt. How does that work??? I guess the tulle flattens a bit to accommodate the coat.

WONDERFUL analysis as always, Ginger. Stellar to have the when and how of your style sorted to your satisfaction. Well done!

Please carry on

Farfetch

P.A.R.O.S.H. Nullex Pleated Tulle Skirt - Farfetch

Nordstrom

Double Breasted Wool Blend Coat

Star

You have inspired me to take a closer and more defined look at my own formula dressing. Tx!

Ket

You have done so much work!! I love how you've analyzed your formulas and made them work so well for you <3 IT's inspiring and helpful to see your process.

As for in-between... I still struggle with this myself., I'm not certain I have any grand solutions. I live at high altitude. I can sweat at 40-45F outdoors if I'm in direct alpine sun. (The sun is just searing hot here.) but out of the sun, it's chilly, especially if there is wind off the mountain passes. I just layer up. If we are traveling by car, I'll take along my winter coat. But I may not wear it if it gets warm enough, and leave it in the car.

Bijou

What a brilliant analysis! The style of coat to wear over full skirts is tricky due to the volume. Cloaks and wraps often look great, but I find they are less warm than a well fitting coat but may be useful for in between weather.

9 months ago

SarahD8

This was a great read. I like how you are identifying the very specific "pinch points" in your formulas -- I can imagine that tweaking these aspects will disproportionately increase the happiness factor and ease of getting dressed. Well done and I look forward to updates. I am taking notes!

Ginger

Thank you everyone for the feedback! I'm impressed so many read it (long and dry) and even found it helpful. A few responses:

Rachy, I'm in North Texas, which has an extremely variable and inconsistent winter climate. On average winters are relatively mild, with highs in the 50s for a couple months. But the below average times can be fierce. Frozen precipitation is usually more ice than snow. And the humid cold is miserable. Puffers help a lot but are hard to wear over bulky skirts.

Suz, I thought of your struggles with indoor footwear! I'm doing okay by layering thick knee socks AND hard sole mukluks, but it's a bulky feel and looks ridiculous. Still thinking!

Roberta, I hear you about dealing with cardigans. The ones I use almost exclusively now are from Emmy Design Sweden. They are heavier than most modern ones in a traditional cut with shaped cuffs and (high) waist, and layer perfectly over a long-sleeve tee. I usually don't button all the way up, so the colors of tee, cardigan, and skirt all play together. Before I got these my options were far more limited. But I do also have a poncho! Big and pink. When I'm still cold I'll add it on top.

Cardiff girl, vintage styles are helpful to a point. Vintage full-skirt coats are hard to find and crazy expensive. Other styles they had were more trapeze or swing shaped, but I haven't looked hard for that.

Angie, I couldn't wear your red coat at all, even wearing a leotard! I'm too pear-shaped. I have a couple vintage princess-cut coats, but I find the skirt tends to stick out of the front and look funny in those. They're better over less skirt. I'll dig out a picture from a few years ago in a little bit.

Ket, I'm not in an alpine region but I hear you on the difference the sun makes. Last week we were finally warming after a longer spell of arctic cold, but it was solid overcast and the house just wouldn't warm up even with outdoors into the 50s. This morning it started chilly but in full sun it felt quite comfortable in the 50s, outside! It's so tricky to get dressed on these days.

Bijou, funny you mention shawls. I've gotten a couple big ones and I like draping and pinning them as a cardigan alternative. Or even over a cardigan. It's hard to wear under a coat but can be helpful at particular times.

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by Ginger

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