Q for seamstresses: can a blazer be significantly shortened? - YouLookFab Forum

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Q for seamstresses: can a blazer be significantly shortened?

Tanya

Veteran

One of my essential categories is cropped blazers in my neutrals, to be worn with dresses and skirts. I was able to find two black ones and one white (all in Finds), but navy seems to be very elusive, I have been looking for over two years and so far nothing right. I did manage to find a navy knitted jacket (also in Finds) that sort of serves for this purpose, but I still want a proper cropped blazer.
Lately I have started wondering if it is possible to have a good tailor significantly shorten/crop a regular length navy blazer, as there are plenty of those around (example in Photo). I would be curious if seamstresses and others with sewing/alteration knowledge think this is possible/worthwhile doing? If yes, when purchasing a blazer for this purpose, I would make sure the button is at the correct height (I can compare it to my current cropped blazers) and that there is enough length between the button and top of the pockets to create a proper hem, but is there anything else I should watch for?

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General

27 replies

Latest reply was from Tanya

Vildy

Veteran

Because I'm short and depending what length jacket I want, I've done this often. It's relatively easy though would take some skill at recutting a bottom curved front or, in fact, if you'd rather have a curved or sharp front edge. I think a lot of that depends on facial features. D

The main snag would be if the blazer had pockets. Patch pockets would probably have to be removed altogether, depending on how cropped you're going, but I've seen them applied even with the waist area. Seems impractical and just a design feature. But set in pockets will be thrown off completely and I think would nix the project. It's the same as figures in with petite clothing, you have to carefully watch the size and the location of detail.

Tanya

Veteran

Vildy, your comment is very helpful, thank you very much!

I am basically hoping to recreate the shape like on the black blazers I have, so definitely cropped to the waist/my narrowest point. This would be significantly above any pockets the original blazer may have, so they would have to go completely. I do not want pockets on the "new" cropped blazer, just very simple lines.

Vildy

Veteran

Okay, so if you want it to your waist, you need to suss out what lines the ones you have follow. They seem to narrow a bit at least from front view pic. That should be easy enough to do so long as the new longer blazer fits well. Requires bit more work and cost, naturally.

Vildy

Veteran

For next project a proper hem is not much of a problem because fabric can be seamed in to create what's called a false hem. Again, more work, more cost.

Tanya

Veteran

Thank you again, Vildy, this helps so much. Yes, the black ones narrow to the waist, you are correct. Sounds like I should look for a navy blazer that has a similar shape, meaning narrowing at the waist as well.

Anonymous

A back vent - and placement thereof - is something to watch for too. I'd personally be wary of doing this with an expensive jacket. This changes the lines, and might not look great when it's altered. ( I know tailoring and sewing, btw).

Vildy

Veteran

Lisa, great point about the lines. I would be measuring circumference
at jacket bottom and seeing if width is there on the proposed new jacket.
With a back vent, so long as not really needed for wearability, couldn't it just be sewn closed with inside excess removed?

kkards

Veteran

Wondering if instead of investing in a blazer and expensive tailoring, would it be possible to have one custom made?

cat2

Veteran

If I was going to do this, I would look for something that already has a separate seam at the waist, like a peplum, and then have the peplum removed.

unfrumped

Veteran

Are the JCrew Going Out jackets too long for your purposes? They’re short, though not cropped to the waist.

Lynn

Veteran

I agree with Vildy, it can be done somewhat easily. As others have pointed out you would need to be sure there are no details that cannot be removed at the level you want to crop it. A welt pocket is something that cannot be removed. BTW a back vent could be sewn up if it extended up that high. I would also check to be sure that any details above the level you want to crop the jacket still work with the new proportion.The side seams, and princess seams if the jacket has them ,can be tapered in to fit more closely at the waist. If this is a style you want to have multiples of, it may be worth having it custom made as the pattern could then be used repeatedly. Hope this helps

Tanya

Veteran

I much appreciate all the comments, thank you, Vildy, Lisa, Kkards, Cat2 Unfrumped, and Lynn.

Lisa, I know that you know this stuff That is a very helpful pointer, thank you for the mention.

Kkards, that is interesting option I have not considered. I will consider it once pandemic ends if I have not found what I am looking for by then. I don't know what the custom price tag would be, I tend to think perhaps out of my budget. For this blazer, I am willing to spend up to $300, perhaps $400.

Cat2, that is an excellent suggestion, though I have not seen many such options. But I will keep my eyes open.

Unfrumped, the J Crew Going out jacket is definitely too long for my purposes. I am literally looking for the navy equivalent of the black jackets above.

Lynn, great information. Based on what you say, it sounds that, once I buy a potential tailoring candidate, I should make sure it is from a place with good return policy and bring it to tailor first for their assessment to determine if the alteration would be possible it for that particular jacket.

Earlier this morning, I spotted this Express jacket (in Finds), and it is on super clearance. The cut is exactly what I want, but the quality far from it. Nevertheless, I think that I will order it to serve as a placeholder until I find a better quality version. I have actually done exactly the same a few years back when looking for black jacket. I happened to find an Express one first, bought it, realized the material/quality is far from what I want, but wore it a decent # of times until I found the better version, and then donated the Express one.

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slim cat

Veteran

Seamstress at my work place have done shortening jackets for herself with great results ( she is very petit ).
Speaking of Express - I like the fit of the jackets they offering and possibility to wash some of them ( the fabrication used to be a bit better before ).

Anonymous

Well I personally don’t think a stitched closed vent would be an attractive solution . If you take a look at a vent on a lined blazer , you’ll see how much construction there is there . Taking it all apart , closing the lining vent etc? No . You’ll never get the creases out , there might be stitch marks where the vent is tacked at the top ( not always a taco there but in some tailoring there is ) ...I really wouldn’t go that route .

nemosmom

Veteran

With so many cropped tops and jackets available (thanks to high rise bottoms), I would keep looking - or go the custom route, like kkards suggests.

Tanya

Veteran

Lisa, I hear you what are saying. Nemosmom, I appreciate the suggestion.

In the line of what Cat2 was suggesting, I found this VB jacket online. Would the design detail at the waist, the extra seam etc., make it a good or bad candidate for my project?

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Stagiaire Fash

Veteran

Ooh, have them use that cheap version as a pattern to make a new one! Our alterations shop here (shout out to Astrid for the recommendation) does a fantastic job with that sort of thing on pants for my son.

If you decide to try getting a longer blazer shortened, I don’t think a vent is likely to be an issue. Yes, it would look odd to have one stitched up back there, but thinking of why they exist and how you are determining the length you want, I doubt you’ll find one that goes up that far. Looks like you’re talking about a 4”-6” chop. That would be a very long vent!

I don’t sew, so you should take everything I’m saying with a grain of salt, but I think the waist detail is only helpful if you truly want the final result to be just what you see in the original, minus the fabric below that seam at the waist (and probably a seam allowance). This one looks to me like it does not go in at the waist as much as you’d like. Reshaping the top sounds like a big project to me (but there are others on this thread who would know better).

Before any final decision about how to spend a few hundred $$$ on this, I think you should get price estimates from the person you plan to have do it. Ask for ballpark figures on shortening and for replicating, and add in the cost of anything you’d have to buy.

Anonymous

Agreeing that it would be a lot of work to do that alteration, and the result may not be what you want. Custom would be better and may cost less. You should be able to find lots of different options for the pattern. Also have you checked ETSY or some of the online consignment sites yet?

kkards

Veteran

Not a seamstress, so take this with a grain of salt, but re that VB i think the stance would be off....but if the blazers returnable, buy it and ask your tailor. Or maybe your tailor could look at the picture and give you their opinion

Vildy

Veteran

Re: the design detail on the VB. Anywhere you have or add a horizontal line, it's broadening because calls attention to exactly that spot and stops the eye. "The eye needs to travel" - Vreeland, I think.

In most cases, people don't want that but sometimes as with a choppy, energetic gamine impression, it's a plus.

Anonymous

You would be significantly changing not just the length but the style of the jacket and the relationship between the details, proportions and even weight of the fabric will change in ways that can be very difficult to imagine beforehand.

Custom is definitely worth investigating.

gryffin

Veteran

Tanya a couple of years ago I saw a jacket like the VB. Maybe theory? Does anyone remember? But there was a zipper and you could wear the jacket cropped or long. I wonder if something like that would be possible?

gryffin

Veteran

https://www.theory.com/lanai/8.....rce=google

I don’t know if this would work. The lanai has kind of that tux front. Although it’s slightly longer I think it could work well with dresses. Thought I’d mention.

Vildy

Veteran

Phoebe has a great point about changing the weight of the jacket - through significant chopping - affecting the jacket as a whole.

Tanya

Veteran

Thank you for further input, Fashintern, Suntiger, Kkards, Vildy, Phoebe and Gryffin. Lots of food for thought in your comments.

Fashintern, I will definitely get a complete estimate before alteration/or custom project.

Suntiger, I don't use consignment stores, however I have forgotten about Etsy, I will look there for sure.

Gryffin, I have a vague recollection about seeing something like you describe, but it has been while. I am familiar with the Theory Lanai, and it would work with my sheath dresses, but not with my fit & flares, and I want to get just one nice blazer, not multiple ones.

Anyway, I would like to thank everyone once again who commented here. I will wait till I get vaccinated, which is not likely to happen for at least a couple of more months, and once that is done, I will go visit my regular tailor, to get his opinion of doing the alternations in the first place ( and on the right jacket to attempt it on). If he sounds anything less than 100% confident that it can be done properly, then I would nix the idea and explore the custom option. In the meantime I will keep searching the internet, and Etsy. The only thing I have found and liked so far is sadly a YSL, and therefore about 10x more than my budget for this item: https://www.mytheresa.com/en-u.....e=affiliat.

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Anonymous

Lookit what I found
https://www.peruvianconnection.....+jacket.do

PC also has short leather and other jackets if you don't like this one!

Tanya

Veteran

Suntiger, that is very sweet of you, thank you for looking! Unfortunately, while the shape is right, the jacket is very casual, and I am looking for one in dressy suiting fabric. I looked through their site though and have found some other lovely short jackets, including a very pretty velvet one. These are definitely going to be considered in the future, as an expansion once I have the essentials in place.