I’ll defer to others, like Janet, for an assessment as to the quality of the photography because I’m certainly not the expert here, but I can’t help but think Vogue’s decision to use Tyler Mitchell as the photographer makes its editorial decision to use the black suit image rather predictable.
To my mind Tyler Mitchell’s images are interesting because his choices are NOT what I expect to see in a portrait: he shoots in natural light with a saturated, candy-colored palette; he frequently uses a draped fabric background (often in a laundry-line look) as a metaphor to connect his non-white subjects to the context of a historical social reality; and, finally, he chooses to present blackness using imagery that’s common to white people but subtly questions our response when non-white subjects employ clothing in an equivalent way. In Mitchell’s own words:
This stuff I’m photographing is real, but it’s also a fantasy...These are behaviors we’ve been self-policing ourselves from. For instance, when I visited my best friend who went to Hampton, a historically black college — I almost went to Howard myself — I visited him on the weekend and the rules were like, no hats indoors, you have to wear a belt at all times, when you’re in certain areas you have to wear a collared shirt. I was like, Are you serious? These are rules that we’ve put in place on ourselves so that we seem presentable according to Western ideas of what presentable looks like. If we don’t present that way, we get killed. That’s what I mean when I say fantasy.
I suspect the editorial choice of Tyler Mitchell was approved by Harris’ team so, while the black suit image might not have been the one her team preferred, the overall image that would be projected by a Mitchell Vogue cover was entirely predictable. A different photographer would have provided a much different image—perhaps more in line with our conventional expectations? But maybe that’s the point the editorial staff at Vogue wanted to drive home?