I am trying to do a shoe edit. The problem is I find it basically impossible to get rid of comfortable shoes that I have liked, do like or might like in the future !

This is a fascinating thread.

I appreciate everything that JenniNZ wrote regarding how clothes that are donated to the Goodwill are bundled up and sent overseas to Africa or somewhere where they sometimes destroy the garment industries of those countries.

If I am being honest, I knew this intellectually and yet I failed to comprehend it emotionally. I had always imagined that the quality of the clothing I donated meant they were snapped up by some very excited and happy person. But having shopped the Goodwill, the sheer volume of really, really crappy shit that a person has to wade through to get to one or two gems is astonishing. Upon reflection, it is easy to envision all those clothes being bundled up and shipped overseas or just plain landfilled.

Recognizing the problem, I agree with Fashintern. I have personal reasons for wanting to purge my wardrobe of those items that are not working for me due to changes in weight, changes in life style, changes in taste, or buying mistakes.

Before making the decision to purge so much of my wardrobe I really did try to wear those clothes for as long as possible. I wasn’t trying to achieve a certain number of wears, I was personally trying to achieve a reasonable cost per wear. The end result was that I felt terrible about myself (unfashionable, sloppy). I’ll never do that again and I won’t endorse that feeling for any other person.

The key for me to is address the problem not from the purging end (what is done is done), but from the buying end. We as a society buy too many clothes in response to myriad pressures and stimuli. I see it everywhere. Even people who pride themselves on being budget conscious and impervious-to-fashion have shockingly voluminous wardrobes.

I resolved in 2018 to never let my buying get that out-of-hand again. I developed a written “list of buying rules” for myself that has helps keep my "wardrobe rebuild" reasonable, manageable, and responsible. But it is not easy. There is a tremendous amount of pressure (both internal and external) to throw those rules out the window and resume buying indiscriminately. The emotions I experienced during the Great Closet Purge of 2018 are the foundation I stand on to battle back those pressures. So far, so good.

I hope we didn’t go too far astray of Suntiger’s original topic.

Even people who pride themselves on being budget conscious and impervious-to-fashion have shockingly voluminous wardrobes.. That would be me.

Agreeing 100% Sterling! I'm appalled by the waste too, not just overproduction of clothes, but poor quality housewares, electronics designed for obsolecense, disposable bags and takeaway containers, giveaways, etc.
I don't want to contribute to it on the shopping end (the slow shop) nor the things passing on. Anything usable at all I donate to local orgs-and figure they get snapped up (in comparison to their usual offerings it's likely).
The 5Rs are big in my house: Refuse (freebies, bags, takeaway containers), Reduce, Recycle, Rot (we compost scraps).

I am on a regular review and edit cycle. It is much easier for me to do it that way and I feel very comfortable with it, largely. I keep a bag ready for the next drop off to my local charity shop, a British Heart Foundation shop, who know me by name. I also send on some of the very best bits that I can not wear any more to a friends daughter who is the same shape and size and seemingly loves my clothes!

I have swapped out my winter clothes to my summer, and will do more at Easter (coats). I store my stored items in a little leather case, and if there is too much for the case, then I edit. The system works for me. I feel 'heavy' if I have too much for me.

It is interesting to read everyone's views.

As I said before, I wasn’t trying to be critical of others. I was saying that FOR ME I am very aware of the issue of waste. Certainly FashIntern I’ve done many things that I’ve had to change! And having 2 grown-up daughters, one of whom is trying to be a “minimalist” and gets at me ( but mostly she’s trying to get me to give away all my stuff she doesn’t think I use enough- where will it all go?!) is adding to my angst about this. Building a house last year was pretty instructive about waste every time I saw them swap the skips for landfill. I heard on the radio that our Government wants to make the building industry less wasteful somehow. I KNOW everything intellectually like you Sterling but it is all hard- including slowing shopping at the front end! PPP is helping. Will do tryons for the edit Suntiger x

JenniNZ -- I love YLF because we exchange such valuable and interesting information. Many of us are aware of the problem and looking for solutions that best fit our busy lives. I really liked Suntiger's Refuse, Reuse, Recycle, Rot. Am I missing an "R?"

Best wishes.

Oops yes-Reduce is the other!

Wise words, Sterling. I'm also of a mind that I need to let certain things go, but I try to do my best to make sure that what I bring into my home in the first place is really useful and a good investment of my money. I've slowly gotten better in the last few years at buying the right things, but I'm still far from perfect.

I'm interested in your "list of buying rules". Would you mind sharing?

Oh Astrid! Now I'm embarrassed. I've been bragging about my "written rules" ad nauseum. They are actually quite simple when I read them.

Here they are for you. Please add to them as you see fit.

  • All catalogs go straight to the recycle bin immediately.
  • Delete all retail and blogger websites .... with the sole exception of YLF.
  • Ignore all promotions unless those promotions fit into my written buying plan. If fear-of-missing-out is a problem, remember there will be a better promotion next weekend.
  • Encourage the "sale hunting/stalking instinct" to whither and die.
  • Set a price for what I think is fair to pay for an item and then stop circling back to see if there is a better promotion.
  • Put down the computer when mindless browsing sets in.
  • Identify the categories in my wardrobe that meet my current style and climate needs. Stay focused on the word "current." Be as specific as possible when identifying categories. For example, "jeans" versus "full length dark jeans for work" or "cropped white jeans for socializing."
  • Estimate the number of items within each very specific category that are needed to get dressed for the current or upcoming season. I imagine a window of 12-to-20 weeks (or a season).
  • Count how many items I own in each category. The counted items cannot be place holders, but must be items I want to wear and that make me happy. If an item exists in my wardrobe, and I don't choose to wear it, donate it.
  • Compare the two sets of numbers. BAM! You have just developed your written shopping list of items you need to shop in the next 12-to-20 weeks to meet your current style needs and goals.
  • Acknowledge that there are strong and weak categories in every wardrobe. Become better at shopping for weaker categories .... even if it is not as enjoyable.
  • Be really judicious about what is allowed back into the wardrobe.
  • Do not settle. Historically, "settling" has resulted in the most buying mistakes. If I will continue to shop for that same clothing item, it is a sure sign of settling.
  • Do not buy too deep into any single category or style.
  • Institute a "cooling off period" of at least 24 hours before making a purchases. Seventy-two hours would be ideal.
  • Don't become emotionally attached to clothing. They are mere pieces of cloth. They either work for me or they don't. Make peace with it if they don't work and get rid of them faster rather than slower.
  • Wear the clothes I have. If I am not wearing something I own, while at the same time, shopping for something nearly identical, make sure I understand the why as I put that piece in the donation bag.
  • Recognize it is easy to get caught up on the buy/return cycle. Stop and evaluate on a monthly basis to make sure the train is still on the track.

Sterling, as they say "simple isn't easy." This is WONDERFUL. Thank you so much for sharing this resource!

Love your guidelines, Sterling!! Thank you for sharing.

Sterling, wise words. I’m trying to slow my roll this year as well, simply being more mindful of what I’m buying. Lately I’ve ordered too many things to try, since there is not much in local retail that appeals to me, but that return cycle can be a waste of resources as well. No easy answers. Especially for people who like to dress well, enough that we participate in a style forum.

Ive been unsubscribing from nearly all of my email lists, many of which are retailers. That certainly helps curb some cravings.

Sterling, thank you!! Not as simple as all that. I think it's a very good strategy. I'm still guilty of looking for sales and browsing, although I'm spending less time on it because I only look at a few sustainable brands vs. the big online retailers. My problem is that I couldn't really afford sustainable clothing in the past unless I bought it on sale, so I still have those newsletters to alert me of any promotions coming in. You definitely made me reconsider how big my next edit is going to be. I have a lot of items I'm not wearing, a lot of them leftovers from my student days.

Astrid, what are your favorite brands that are sustainably made? I’ve been noticing a lot of Berlin clothing makers, and plan to buy mostly from them this fall (not planning to buy this spring & summer).

Alright, here's my list. And I shop "normal" brands too, I just try to choose the lesser evil when I have the choice. And I don't do extensive research on brands, so no guarantees. Some of these aren't marketed as sustainable, but are made in Germany or Europe which I think is a good thing (no child labor, no toxic chemicals being used and so on).

Clothing (in random order)
HessNatur, Lanius Köln, Armed Angels, Bleed Clothing, Seasalt Cornwall (jackets, coats and summer dresses), Thought Clothing, Komodo Clothing, Nomads Clothing (summer dresses), Alma & Lovis, Good Society (jeans), Armor Lux (breton shirts), Schneiders Salzburg (wool coats), Brora/Johnstons of Elgin (love their wool or cashmere scarves/gloves/hats/sweaters/cardigans), Falke (socks and hosiery, made in Germany), Toast (mostly secondhand wool sweaters), Living Crafts, Grüne Erde, Engel (underwear), Veith (best hiking socks), People Tree, Icebreaker

Shoes (I have wide feet):
Waldviertler, Think Shoes (I think most of my shoes are Think now), Birkenstock, Trippen (beware, these are in-your-face),
Meindl (hiking boots made in Germany), Legero (lightweight sneakers)

Accessories:
A lot of my jewelry was actually handed down to me. I like Majorica for (fake) pearls. I bought a cheap Casio F91W for my travel to New Zealand and Australia and have been wearing it since. I've been using the same scarf every winter since 2014 (Johnstons of Elgin cashmere stole) and still love it.

Most of the bags I bought over the last few years are from Tom Bihn, I love their bags for their design and practicality. Plus the colors are lovely too. I
still have a "nice" handbag for dressing up though. I really like Volker Lang for leather goods, I'm going to buy one of his clutches one day! Have one of his pencil cases in front of me right now, lovely...

Actually not that many German brands or small designers! But that's
because I never had the money to afford those. I would love to hear some
names if you have them. The last few years I mostly bought on sale or second hand.

I still have a very long list of bookmarks with sustainable brands on my laptop which I haven't accessed for a while, maybe I should take a look.

Astrid -- Shopping sales is an excellent idea if it serves you well. By that, I mean you know what brand/item you are searching for and you use promotions to get the best price possible. Brilliant strategy.

In contrast to your strategy.

I had never encountered a sales rack or a sales promotion that I didn't immediately start shopping for the thrill of the hunt. I could actually feel my pulse increase and my breathing become shallow.

Let me emphasize that I wasn't shopping for any specific item. The sale price itself was enough to convince me to buy (victory!). I bought because "the price was too good to pass up." Because the sale price was the driving factor, the item rarely fit into any wardrobe plan. My wardrobe reflected a lot of victories that were a mishmash of what retailers were dumping at the end of the season (dreck).

Eliminating sales shopping was the first new habit I had to learn. It was hard. But when I calculated the cost of tens and tens of sales items that didn't meet my needs versus three (or even five) items bought at full price that did meet my needs, it was a win for me.

It was interesting to read your list comprehensive list of German retailers. I don't recognize the majority of them, but Majorica is a favorite of mine.

Janet -- I unsubscribed from all promotional emails. I had not choice because every single time I saw a promotion, I had to look (see above comments on sales shopping). Despite having unsubscribed, if I should leave items in a cart (cooling off period), that retailer will send me an email alerting me to the fact that I left items in a cart and they are selling fast. I have not been able to stop those emails.

One last thing. Remember I had a massive closet purge in 2018. I am in a position to implement these rules. Not everyone is at the same exact stage.

Furthermore, we all have very different needs. I enjoy a smaller wardrobe. A small wardrobe would never suit those individuals that crave variety.

Everyone has to be true to their own selves. The key is to develop rules that allow you to stay true to yourself. Self knowledge is the key. Know who you are and what you like and don't allow yourself to be swayed by promotions that don't align with your truths.

Best wishes.

Astrid, thank you for that list. It's very generous of you to take the time to type it up! I think the only brands on it I recognize are Think! and Falk, both of which you told me about last fall. I'm saving this post for when I'm back in acquisitions mode.

I have the same idea you do about European-based production already having fairly high standards. One brand I've come across this winter that I want to investigate further is Ivko. I like some of their things a lot, but they are investment prices for my budget. These finds are from Zalando, but I wrote to them and they sent me a list of shops in Berlin that carry their brand. I like the idea of supporting small business, so will look into those. Another new-to-me brand I like is White Stuff, but I need to find out where they actually make their stuff.

I am serious about taking time off from shopping right now. I have a lease in my name--no more sublets, hooray! That's great, but it also means a lot to buy (except for the kitchen, which is built in, as shown in my "off topic" post). So I'm mostly window-shopping, taking note of where I see stores to investigate further and of markets that have good stands. When I get back at it this fall, I want to stick to the list I posted a few weeks ago. Besides heading back to the places I notice now, I plan to use the following sites to find Berlin designers/producers. Quite a few side events to Fashion Week were open houses/sales at local ateliers. https://fashion-week-berlin.co.....event.html

Some of those producers and the ones on your list may be expensive; I want to strike a balance -- looking for sales on the items on my list but not insisting on the kinds of deals that are impossible with good labor conditions and sustainably produced materials.

Btw, here's a Berlin purchase for the kitchen that makes me smile: https://blumenfisch-onlineshop.....ruehstueck

Thanks - Ivko looks really good from what I've seen with a quick look! I've seen it's also a brand sold by Waschbär, one of the big online shops selling sustainable items in Germany. Love the Berlin themed kitchen purchase, I have a key holder called "Hooked on Berlin" which is my own little nod to the capital.

Good luck with shopping for your new apartment! I also plan to buy some furniture for my new flat, so we're in a similar situation.

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Hmm, I think I am going to hold off a few weeks. I am still feeling the nip of winter air here and want to wait until it’s a bit warmer to think about my spring/summer clothing. The one exception is my gear. I need some new warm weather gear and I have been looking around because I know I am going to eliminate almost all of my old stuff. It’s been washed so many times it’s either stiff and scratchy, or it’s too thin....

I should address my gear too! I worry it's funky...

Wow, Sterling, your guidelines are really thought-provoking. It seems so simple when you read them, but can be tough to keep front of mind sometimes! Being judicious about what's coming in and not settling are what I am working on!

I recently got rid of: 10 scarves/shawls, 5 tees, 3 necklaces, 2 pullovers, 2 pairs of socks, 1 dress, 1 skirt, 1 party topper, 1 long cardigan, 1 heavy sweater.

More than half of these items were donated, as they are still in good condition. I just no longer feel that they are right for me.

Most of the items were patterned, and I am increasingly aware that some patterns which served me well when my hair was dark don't look as good now that my hair is silver grey. For instance, several prints on white background now look either uninteresting, harsh or distracting, in particular if the print is just black. (If the print contains even a little amount of grey or a non-neutral cool colour in addition to the black and white, it looks more flattering on me.)

Generally, I find that light prints on medium or dark backgrounds are the ones which suit me best now. However, some white prints on black background don't work either--those that are too large/busy distract from my face. And I want people to see ME, not primarily my clothes.

Lesson learned: From now on, I need to be more careful when choosing patterns, especially black & white ones. So no more black&white Breton stripes for me, no more black polkadots on white background, and no more big/busy black&white prints like large geometrics, palm trees, etc. However, I can still wear smaller/medium sized black & white prints like checks and tweeds.

I wonder if others have similar experiences regarding patterns/prints related to changed personal colouring. And of course, it would be great if Angie would write a blog post on this issue some day.

Great thread with some pearls of wisdom. I do agree that the wise choice at the start is one of the most important - once we hand in, sell or donate we do lose control.

I am heading away in two days - so I won’t join in. I have removed nine items this year - mostly worn out ( shoes) and one or two have been donated. I have been adding more second hand pieces this year - five new pieces, five second hand. Two of the new pieces were made by a friend. I suspect that the ratio may change as my next purchases will be essentials which are harder to find second hand ( Breton tee etc).

I am trying to optmise at the time of purchase - but satisfice later. Eg wear something I am sick of or is showing some wear. For work in particular I have a couple of outfits that I am “over” but they perfectly suit wearing a hi vis vest over or walking around the airfield in. Whatever I wear I am the best dressed and this is not vain!!

Suntiger- thanks for such a good thread.

The Cat, that’s an interesting topic you bring up. Off the top of my head I can’t think of anything, but I hope someone else will take it up. Or maybe you could start a new thread.

“they perfectly suit wearing a hi vis vest over” ha!

Astrid, what a great key holder, very clever.

Fashintern - yup all glamour around here!!

There’s nothing like the change in season to inspire me to edit my wardrobe. But I find I tend to be almost constantly evaluating and editing, especially when I purchase new items.

Always, the problem for me is knowing when to let go of things that still fit well and are in good condition but for some reason no longer “spark joy” to use Marie Kondo’s ubiquitous phrase. Because I do regularly add new items, and have a hard time letting go of things I’m lukewarm about, my wardrobe is larger than I wish it were.

@The Cat - I find hair colour to be a major influence on the colours and patterns that suit me. Currently my hair is very blonde and so clear colours look best on me. I once dyed my hair red and it required a complete change of wardrobe and make-up that I did not expect. It looked great, but was such a massive change (and DH who was my boyfriend at the time hated it), so it returned to blonde quite quickly just so that I could wear the 75% of my wardrobe that was unwearable when I had red hair.

I'm trying to picture you with red hair!