Signature looks can be brilliant, Sal. For me, at least, it has taken decades of experimentation to figure out what those might be...so there is also that element.
LaPed, I'm re-reading a bio of Simone de Beauvoir now. Of course during the war, they had almost nothing, no food, no clothes. Her father died during that period and she took his old tweed jackets and trousers and had them made into skirts and a jacket for herself. Then, when the war ended, she got a writing commission in Portugal or someplace and was paid a decent sum -- she immediately went out and had some clothes made and had a shopping spree for blouses, undies, shoes, etc. By today's standards it would hardly be extensive. Yet she felt horribly guilty about it afterwards because so many people were still struggling and so was she, in fact. In the late 40s she had a "new look" dress sewn up. She wore it to the US in 1948, and they had never seen such a thing! She was still wearing it 3 years later. It was her only dress. It was very shabby by this point. Stained. Worn.
Black and white photography disguised a lot!
Then again -- my mother, who came from very straightened financial circumstances, had a lovely trousseau (much of it homemade) in the early 50s. Tweed skirt and jacket (gifted, I think, by a richer friend). Satin dressing gown with smocking (home sewn -- oh, it was so elegant!). Satin wedding dress from The Room (elegant shop within big Canadian department store.) Stockings, undies, slips, gloves, coat, hat. A day dress of some kind and a portrait neckline evening dress. Two pairs of shoes.
Of course, this must have represented a massive outlay for the times -- she worked her butt off to pay for it -- and she would never be kitted out with a complete wardrobe like that at one time again in her life (until I bought her a season of clothing when she was in her 80s.)
Where am I going with this? I don't know, LOL. Just thinking about how clothes were treated almost as a dowry.
When she would tell stories about that trousseau, I always felt a bit envious. I couldn't imagine ever having the money to buy that many clothes at once --a. perfect set of outfits for all occasions. But at the same time, even when my wardrobe was at its tightest, I have more choice than she had, more variety. Clothes carry different meanings across the generations.