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Wardrobe Planning - My wardrobe lacks a core

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I know. You can't answer that question. But I'm hoping someone might have some good suggestions for me.

I've read and re-read Angie's blogs on editing and adding to our wardrobes.

I've made lists.

I've looked at my stuff.

I've even tried stuff on, and I've looked back at last year's pictures.

But I'm going a little crazy here.

I am having trouble figuring out my actual NEEDS and how those needs might intersect with my desire to move my style forward.

Also, I'm having an awfully difficult time figuring out how to reconcile the different aspects of my style preferences. How does the retro-loving meet the more modern-avant-garde and stay on speaking terms? If I add a few super modern elements, how do I match them with my other pieces? Yes, they will work with the classics, and with denim (usually).

But I don't want to end up with an incoherent mess. My ideal is still a small, functional wardrobe.

I am so in awe of those of you who can do your fall planning in July and know somehow (seemingly intuitively) that you need this, that, or the other item to make this outfit or that capsule complete.

I have no idea!!

What am I doing wrong here? Where would you start?

ETA: Sometimes I think that what I really need to do is what used to be suggested - buy a suit, and a couple of simple items, probably all from the same designer, in the same season, that all go together, and make that the core.

It is as if my wardrobe doesn't have a core.

I have TONS of basics, but still no CORE.

Does that make sense?

Mostly I wish I could just hire Angie!!

Dressing

57 replies

Latest reply was from

merwoman

Veteran

Because you look so awesome - and have a beautiful style I'm finding it difficult to get my head wrapped around the fact that you are having difficulty!

But diving in...
I am no expert - but what I find helpful, is to think in terms of specific function.
For example - I think of my actvities (Cocolion used a spread sheet for this) and what I need/would like to wear.
Casual at home wear outfits.
Friday night date night - outfits
Special occasion dinners/christmas party
etc (actually there is no real etc - most of my wardrobe life is the above)

I realize I spend most of my life in smart casual - so knowing this, I think I need to have at least 5 outfits mix/match that work with that. A range of shoes/booties, belts purses - outerwear.

Does this help at all?

Mo

(website)

Veteran

I am doing a lot of what you've already mentioned. Making lists, wearing my stuff (and seeing how I feel in it), weighing my needs against my desires.
For instance, right now I really want a beautiful print long sleeved dress but I realize my reality is I *need* an active casual dress like Athleta or Patagonia. I came to this conclusion through my wear a dress a week challenge last month. My dresses didn't necessarily fit my lifestyle here.
I'm still stumbling and by no means an expert, but I think I will do much better next year with my shopping. I made a plan. I took stock of what I have, how much I want/need, and how often I want to turnover my clothing. That's how I got to my every other week purchase plan and with it, an average of 6 or 7 years turnover of my closet.
The last, and still hardest part for me, is reconciling what I like and what I will actually wear given my lifestyle. I'm deciding that I have enough going out about town casual, and I need to diverge to active casual on one side and dressy on the other.

Isabel

Veteran

This was a very big problem for me too. I think that I finally accepted what my life style is and that I don't have to go all out or all in. One accent piece may be enough. I got a lot of ideas from the Vivienne files. And I like Jessica Quirk's idea of having a non-static core for each season with "add-ins" that really give you the personality.

I also think that you should make a list....when you get up every morning take notice of what you put on or would put on if you had it. These are your needs...what gets you through the day, week, months. Then get "add-ins" that speak your language.

But then you've seen my pics...maybe you just want to ignore me !! LOL !!!!!!!
I have to run, but I will write my core down later.

christieanne

Veteran

I think the easiest thing seems to be pulling out the items you wear the most and thinking about the times you wear them. And then add in the occasions that you often find yourself lacking or thinking "i have nothing to wear".
Don't duplicate the most worn items outright but if denim is a workhorse, then owning multilple colors/fabrics/cuts is practical. If it is blazers, then a few to rotate becomes the core.

I try not to overthink and plan but some versatile pieces that can dress up and my essentials that go anywhere will take me most places in my life. Dress-y cocktail/grand functions are my downfall so I know that is my biggest hole.

Mull it over and I would imagine things will sort out.

christieanne

Veteran

I think the easiest thing seems to be pulling out the items you wear the most and thinking about the times you wear them. And then add in the occasions that you often find yourself lacking or thinking "i have nothing to wear".
Don't duplicate the most worn items outright but if denim is a workhorse, then owning multilple colors/fabrics/cuts is practical. If it is blazers, then a few to rotate becomes the core.

I try not to overthink and plan but some versatile pieces that can dress up and my essentials that go anywhere will take me most places in my life. Dress-y cocktail/grand functions are my downfall so I know that is my biggest hole.

Mull it over and I would imagine things will sort out.

cciele

Veteran

Hm, that's quite a dilemma! I've actually never thought about my wardrobe needing a core. Or rather, now that I think of it, my core is based around color. I tend to add pieces around a core of 4 or 5 colors, so I know they will work together. My next consideration is lifestyle -- does the item I am adding fit my lifestyle or the occasion?

I'm wondering what's driving your desire for a small, functional wardrobe; perhaps you've discussed in a previous post and I've missed it

Maybe you can start by pulling out your favorite or most-worn, go-to pieces. What ties them together? What other pieces might augment them?

No concrete suggestions, just wishing you the best on your style journey

ETA: cross-posted with christieanne!

Laura

(website)

Veteran

You know, I would make notes as you put outfits together on what is missing. Or have you tried that?

For example, last year I realized I needed an interesting little cream-colored shell, because if I had that, I would have something to wear under all the cute jackets and boyfriend cardigans that I'd acquired. I added that one piece and suddenly I had a half dozen outfits. Same thing with an accessory - I realized that I never had a handbag in a light neutral to wear when I wore gold accessories. I added a cross-body in taupe with matte gold hardware, and voila: problem solved. Both those pieces are now basics in my wardrobe.

Sometimes it's harder to get yourself to buy the basics you need than the cute items that call to you ... like those red Sam Edelman boots that have been calling to me

rachylou

Veteran

S'pose I have to ask what you mean by core? Should I presume this is different from basics and essentials? Do you mean a core style?

Mo

(website)

Veteran

I'm a little confused by the edit to missing a core as well. Core style - like boho or trendy? Core pieces - like tops to layer under jackets in winter or sweaters that go over dresses? Or even a core capsule - 12 must have, go to pieces that work together to give you a month's worth of outfits? If so, I have no core ha ha ha. But I do have things to wear for the occasions in my life (95% of the time anyway).

cheryl

Veteran

Suz, maybe you just like a lot of variety and need to focus on outfits you love instead of worrying about trying to mix and match everything. A mix and match capsule is great but it doesn't work for everyone. If you have 10 or 15 stand alone outfits that make you happy don't worry about them blending and mxing. That also might make it easier for you to add new things. Instead of worrying about a piece going with what you already have, buy an outfit, so that you know it goes together and makes you feel good. If it mixes with some of your other pieces thats great, if not thats ok too. Just a different perspective, lol.

catgirl

Veteran

I just started a Pinterest board yesterday. I can't show it to you yet, because I have to get over the whole Pinterest thing and also how embarrassingly utterly predictable my tastes are. But I can tell from just the 17 things I have pinned that my style is actually far more narrow and coherent than I thought, at least in principle. Colors, cut, common elements - all superobvious compared to my endless obscure listmaking.

You are a writer (and in my dreams I am too!), so lists seem like the obvious tool, but the visual helped me FAR more than I expected. It also shows how disproportionately I love jackets and shoes. Try it!

merwoman

Veteran

Chiming in again to agree with Laura - I do the same thing - mentally make note of "holes' in the wardrobe, especially if I think that the needed piece could be used in a variety of outfits. Right now I'm thinking aI need a red coloured drapey shirt as it would work with so many pieces, and a cognac or luggage coloured belt and handbag.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Well, you are all incredibly helpful. Thank you.

Mo, I think you hit it on the head - on some level what I want is 12 (or whatever) must-have pieces that mix and match that I can then add to with "extras" to mix it all up.

Why?

I have no idea. I think it would satisfy my OCD tendencies, LOL!

Also, it would save space. And help me feel "together."

I keep trying to unify by colour....but have had some trouble finding the pieces I want in the colours that suit me best. So I end up buying black...yet again. Not that I hate black; I actually like it. But it isn't my best neutral.

Cheryl - I actually DON'T like too much variety. It makes me anxious. I like a sense of ...cohesiveness.

But you might be onto something. Instead of trying to buy mix and match pieces, maybe I should just go and buy some complete outfits so that I know I have at least a few of those that really make me happy. I can't remember when I've done that last....maybe when I was a kid in school.

Actually, now that I think of it, for 8th grade my mom bought me the magic 12 piece capsule wardrobe!! In this season's colour...burgundy!

I want to be 12 again!!

Laura, I'm definitely missing some tops. That's a real hole. Apart from that...it's not so much that things are "missing" as that they are not quite right. And that's where I get into trouble. So, for example, I HAVE a black jacket to wear with that dress....but the jacket really isn't quite the right length. Does that mean I need another black jacket? But I don't want more black jackets! Too much black already in my wardrobe!

You see what I'm getting at? It's as if, without the core, the rest of it has all gone amok. I don't want to be buying this or that piece to complete an outfit if the pieces I'm buying for were already not in my best colours, etc.

I don't have a problem buying basics...but I want them to be the right basics.

The lifestyle considerations are key. Like Mo, I'm trying to build a work-at-home wardrobe that somehow blends my love of style with the reality - that what is most practical is oftentimes "gear!"

So far, for fall/winter, my formula has been jeans, a woven shirt or layering T, often a scarf, and a jacket with some interest. It's good. I like it. But it is tough to find pieces in the slightly more modern or urban shapes I would like. Meanwhile, I still love classic tailored jackets, too, and don't want to give those up. How to marry these preferences?

My other need is for what I call "appearance" wear. I give readings and talks of various kinds as a writer and need clothes that are a bit dressier (sometimes) or a little bit more dramatic for those occasions. Not wild and crazy (and ideally, they should be mix-and-matchable with my other wardrobe items) but a little more "statement" like than most of my clothes.

Isabel, I don't know what a non-static core is, but I'm going to follow up on that - thank you!

Mo - I think you understand the basic dilemma really well. I feel as if I am starting to get a handle on it in terms of actually having something to put on that's practical and SORT of reflects my style. But I am still having trouble because there's a lack of cohesion or something. A feeling that things aren't closely enough related.

Merwoman - I think you are right that thinking in terms of the specific function is very helpful. I need to do a bit more of that as I plan. I have been trying to...but there, I get all messed up because weather really affects what I will wear. I've been trying to plan for some events in late September and can't be sure what temps. we'll be talking about. Will I need this footwear or that? Tights or no tights? It means a completely different outfit for me!

Argh. Who ever said fashion was easy-peay????

texstyle

(website)

Veteran

Suz, do you have (or could you put together) a post with like 6 of your favorite existing outfits? I looked at some of your older posts like your Spring Travel Capsule, etc. but I'm just not sure what your favorite outfits are among those.

I notice you have several denim jackets in various colors - are these something you love to wear and use often or not? If you love denim jackets, and want to wear them a lot, do you have them in the right styles that give you what you want out of them? I remember seeing a cool moto denim jacket last year for example and that would take the standard denim jacket to a different level. I myself bought a military inspired lighter wash, shirt weight denim jacket that I love for summer. The heavier more classic ones only work for me in late fall and winter.

Or when it comes to jeans, have you considered a snake print jean or something else a bit more unique than the standard jeans? Something like these:
http://www1.macys.com/shop/pro.....sn_results

I also know you have a yellow bag that you said you loved - do you still love it?

To me, a "core" is kind of a collection of items you really love and feel good wearing and reach for often. Is the yellow bag and denim jacket collection in your core?

catgirl

Veteran

Did you see where I posted about how I thought I needed the ONE perfect black dress (substitute all clothing items here) that could be accessorized a million ways? Well, turned out I'm not that kind of person. All my items need some built-in statement, because I'm low maintenance and minimal and LAZY. So even if I had a 12 piece wardrobe, each piece would have be stand alone perfect. And that new rule has kept me from buying a lot of stuff, unless it works with what I have and love already, and doesn't repeat what I have.

Examples of such built-in statement items for me:

Equipment shirts
Print dresses
BF jeans
Cropped leather jackets
Theory blazer
Frye Phillip boots
Oxfords

Sounds like your OCD is at war with your artistic side!

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Good questions, texstyle.

My functional "core" would be jeans (and you're right - I plan to get some patterned or coloured ones for fall/winter to add to my collection) and a jacket. Preferably a jacket with some interesting cut. And boots or booties.

Not a denim jacket - for me, those are more occasional items to wear with dresses.

My yellow bag was cheap and it has worn out! I loved it for summer, but will be buying a new bag for fall/winter.

And you know...I'm not sure that I actually HAVE favourite outfits. I have a favourite formula, I guess.

Hmmm. This is interesting. Why no favourite?

Anonymous

I found that when I got to this point of my style journey....I created a wardrobe FORMULA. For me, my fallback formula is: jeans/pants + base layer on top + layering piece + shoes/boots + accessories. I did this because of my methodical brain and its need to organize things. So by forcing myself to use the formula every day, I was able to put together a decent outfit every day. By using the formula, it doesn't really matter what "style" I am because that is where the flexibilty comes in. The pants and base layers are pretty classic in nature and I mix it up with my layering pieces depending on my mood. Today I am feeling a little boho....tomorrow I may feel a little biker-chick. And because I am sticking to my favorite colors and they all go together, I still have a cohesive wardrobe, regardless of my style mood on any particular day. And because I have the outfit "base" I can adjust what I am wearing throughout the day to handle all the different things that come at me during the course of a day. Sitting at my desk, I will throw on a comfy sweater and then change to a blazer and scarf when I go out to run errands. So basically, I managed to find a formula that works for me and my lifestyle and now the getting dressed part is less of a stress item in my day! Good luck!

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Yeah, I don't know, Una - maybe that's it.

Although it feels as if my OCD side is actually my artistic side....with the imaginary "core" of perfect pieces, I could change the look with the accessories, right - meaning footwear, jackets, belts, etc. I like that!

My LBD is one of my most-worn wardrobe items, even though it is far from perfect. I wear it at least once a week in fall/winter and spring and I even wear it in the summer. In fact, it is the ONLY piece I wear across all the seasons!!! (I layer it in fall/winter)

If I had a dress like that in navy, I'd wear it even more.

Sylvie

Veteran

I want to second the Pinterest suggestion. I've been feeling blah about my wardrobe but I don't know what to buy/how to remix/what to wear. Here is my n-step plan

Step 1: Pin every outfit I like and find inspiring on Pinterest.
Step 2: Analyze what I like about each outfit - color, silhouette, shape - why did I pin it? Add this to the Pin Notes.
Step 3: Try to translate this information into outfits I would actually wear and like.
Step 4: Add in any wardrobe items I need to make these theoretical outfits.

I'm currently at Step 1. I think you have a *great* wardrobe and style already. Another approach would be to write down *all* the outfits you can already make out of your existing wardrobe and assign them to lifestyle capsules. Then see where you're missing out - do you not have enough outfits for public speaking? How many more would you need to add? What would those outfits look like? What components do you need to make an outfit? If you have your classics down, I don't think you need to worry too much about needing to carry items across capsules.

Anonymous

I think you are analyzing this too much Suz. You always look lovely, you have managed several capsules for travel (I'm thinking out west and China) which is not easy to do with out a carefully laid out plan. Your clothes and style are awesome.

I am starting to feel stressed about my wardrobe with all this talk of core, essentials, etc, lol

Angela (Toronto YLF group)

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Sylvie, thank you for the ocmpliments - and that reminds me, I HAVE finally started a Pinterest board. I am still forgetting to pin stuff half the time, but hopefully I'll get into the habit. I'm sure it will be enlightening.

I do think I'm lacking most in the "appearances" capsule, partly because I rarely buy statement items.

At the moment, I'm actually lacking everywhere because of a dearth of tops, too.

DeclawedJaguar

Veteran

I agree with A that sometimes there seems to be a lot of "paralysis by analysis" on the forum. If it's giving you a headache, you are overthinking it. Perhaps you need to not think about this for a few days, Suz? You already have some fabulous items and an idea of where you would like to go with your style, now you just need to give it time and space to stew together, so to speak, and grow.

Tina

Veteran

Suz, I wish I was closer I would love to help. Not that I could solve your dilemma but sometimes a different set of eyes can help you see:)
You said you would love to hire Angie ( wouldn't we all!), is this a possibility? Could you pack up your wardrobe and go to her? If it would help you feel 'settled' it may be worth the investment. Just thinking out loud:)
I think you do have a core, your jeans, booties, the black dress are just a few items that comprise your core. Maybe I am looking at this from a completely different angle than you are intending.

Anonymous

For your navy LBD, did you look at Land's End? I keep receiving coupons from them online and some jersey dresses are on the front page

RoseandJoan

Veteran

I have no practical advice Suz but thought I would say that I was in your position 18 months ago. I was dissatisfied with my style, made an attempt to change direction before feeling more than a little lost.

I spent so much energy analysing and dissecting my choices without moving forward and then, for a period ,life stepped in the way of my fashion time and when I returned to YLF things has clicked back into place. I don't know why but it felt as though I had slept on the problem to awake with the solution.

Please don't let your analysis turn to paralysis, You have fabulous style now and I think in time the solution will find you.

Laura

(website)

Veteran

I agree with Jules ... as always I am just a lemming to every thought Jules has ...

Also. A Thought (with a capital "T"). Why not add a black leather jacket to your wardrobe? Thinking about your other thread ... you might find it different enough from your black jacket that doesn't quite work with the dress you mentioned. You might find it perks up everything else in your closet. Sometimes one magical piece can make a lot of difference. Those Anyi Lu booties from NAS did it for me. As Denise pointed out at the time, they elevate everything I wear with them and it's almost uncanny. Maybe a super fab little leather jacket could do the same for you.

CocoLion

(website)

Veteran

I haven't read each comment thoroughly Suz but here are my thoughts.

I feel it is helpful to assess your needs first (as I did earlier with a spreadsheet). Since I did that, I am buying more things that aren't just exclusive to my smart casual capsule, they might also be worn to work as part of my uniform or as part of my casual wardrobe (washable, comfortable being key to the casual wardrobe). I still have way more smart casual things than I really need and plan on purging these things sometime in the future. (This is a dangerous notion when you're a procrastinator like me.)

As for how to integrate disparate styles into one wardrobe, like vintage with minimal or boho with avant-garde -- I suggest reflecting your secondary style in accessories. I have a fringe clutch that I love, it reflects the Boho part of my style. When I layer pendants this also reflects the Boho in me, while the rest of the outfit might be modern, fashion-forward and effortless. Does that make sense?

Lisa

Veteran

I struggled with my closet purge for 2 years, writing lists, tracking outfits, flipping hangers, all the tricks I could read about to try. It took me months of tracking to determine how much I like to repeat before I get bored and how much of my clothes I wear in a season, once I knew the numbers I was able to purge the clothes. As far as building core items, I noticed I reach for the same pieces again and again (such as my blue jeans and boots) these items worn most often are my core pieces. Taking outfit photos and looking at them a month at a time helped me see the basic elements that repeat in my style (such as scarves with blazers in winter months.) My last tactic, was to start shopping with a focus of more items in less colors. When I shop less often, but purchase more items at a time, I find it easier to stick with a color palette and stick with purchasing items that remix easily. Probably because I'll have the items in hand to carry from store to store to create my outfits. When I used to shop one item at a time, I found adding those clothes to my wardrobe would remix less often.

Astrid

Veteran

I haven't read all the comments, but here's the thing that came to mind. I really wouldn't worry to much about which things to buy that go well with your style aspirations AND with all the things in your current wardrobe. I think that's way too complicated and you'll just end up being overwhelmed. I'd focus on finding and buying the pieces that constitute your dream style and I think you'll find a way to incorporate them with your current pieces somehow so that you have time to slowly replace those other items that aren't 100% perfect. Additionally I'd focus on the things in your wardrobe that you REALLY love and try to find out what items would make them work in a way that fits into your style aspirations. And if that means that you'll be replacing a big part of your wardrobe again over time, then so be it. As for finding out what exactly you want and how it should all come together, I second Una and suggest taking Pinterest a step further. I think it's a good way to recognize undercurrents to your favourite things that you wouldn't think of any other way.

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