Some of you requested a step-by-step guide to turning my bootleg trousers from NAS into a narrower leg. So, here it is!

These are the original Halogen trousers.

Although the description says "straight leg", they are really a boot cut. But I wanted trousers like Angie's Theory trousers.

So, I decided to narrow the legs on the Halogen trousers.

Step #1: Let out the existing hem, and press the seams closed, so that the pant legs lie flat. (Photo 1)

Step #2: Mark the new width along the crease made by the hem (which is now unhemmed). I chose to narrow mine to the width of Angie’s Theory pants (circumference at leg opening = 13.5”). Because the side seams were simple side seams, I came in from both sides. With the pants lying flat, the current width between the seams was 9.5” (Photo 2).

9.5 – (13.5/2) = 2 ¾”. I split the difference of 2 ¾” between the two sides, so I marked each side at 1 3/8” in from the side seam (Photo 3). Be sure to mark at the bottom of what will be the new hem, rather than at the bottom of the unhemmed leg.

Step #3: Decide where to start the taper. I always sort of eyeball where exactly I connect the line with the sideseam to ensure that there will be a smooth transition from the new ankle width to the existing side seam, but it usually ends around mid-thigh (Photo 4). With a dressmaker’s pencil, draw a line that connects the mark at the bottom with the spot mid-thigh where your new seam will join up with the existing side seam, on each side of each leg (Photo 5). Because the two sides of each pant leg are different widths, be sure to flatten and smooth each side before marking (there will likely be extra fabric on the back side of the pants that you don’t want to catch in your seam). Pin the line you’ve drawn to help the pants lie flat for sewing (Photo 6).

Step #4: Sew a seam on each of the lines you’ve drawn. When you get to what will be the bottom of the hemmed pants, stop tapering and sew straight down to the raw edge (or even taper back the other way a bit), so that the pants will hem smoothly.

Step #5: Trim away the excess seam allowance and finish each raw edge (e.g. with a zig zag stitch). (Photo 7)

Step #6: Press the seams open on each side of each leg.

Step #7: Hem and wear, once the temperature drops below 90 degrees! (Photo 8) Sorry I didn't have time to post a "styled" photo! Actually it was just too hot.

Be sure to post your trouser narrowing projects!