Ask Angie: Empire waists

pmhenson

Maya's shoe post thread brought up a question I had. I do have a problem with empire waists, especially gathered ones. A-line is hit or miss. Why is this? I have an average size bust and fairly broad shoulders but I always feel like my bust and shoulders are accentuated in an unflattering way in these styles. I've just finally figured out this style is a no-no for me but maybe you can enlighten me on this matter and suggest alternatives for spring tunic styles. I think I'm hourglass, by the way.

18 years ago

Dressing

12 replies

Latest reply was from Angie

Nicole

Veteran

Pmhenson, Does the empire seam sit under your bust, or does it cut across your bust? If it is sitting under your bust, but you still feel the style makes your shoulders look broad--then I'd look at the neckline and sleeve. As someone with very broad shoulders, I can tell you that any sleeve with a pouf, flounce, or elasticized cuff will make your shoulders look big. Also, look for V necks or open necklines, which draw the eye down. Collars point right at your shoulders and draw attention to them. Ruffles, flounces, extra fabric around the neckline or shoulders are tricky with broad shoulders. Also, what happens under the empire seam is important. Look for something that is flat and skims over your stomach, instead of someing with lots of pleats and tucks and excess fabric.

Now, if the seam of the empire is cutting right across your bust, then it doesn't fit. I have YET to find an empire waist that actually sits under my bust.

18 years ago

pmhenson

Active Member

The seam does sit under my bust. I think there is something to the sleeve issue. A-line v-neck sleeveless empire waists do often work. But it's not just my shoulders that look extra wide; my chest looks extra wide too. Even with V necks sometimes.

18 years ago

Nicole

Veteran

Hmmm...when you think your chest looks wide, do you also think your shoulders look wide? Or is it usually one or the other?

Also, could the V neck lines that still make your chest look wide, have gathers at the shoulder? Or maybe a seam that runs diagnally over your shoulder, instead of straight up and over your shoulder.

18 years ago

AnaElizabeth

Active Member

I have broad shoulders, and I've found that the most flattering fit is sleeveless (with a wide shoulder band, not spaghetti straps, and like Nicole said, a V or deep scoop neckline), or elbow length sleeves or longer. I can get away with short sleeves, but they need to be true short sleeves (no cap sleeves at all). I can also get away with a slightly poufy sleeve (I dearly love them) but the fabric has to be a soft, drapey, fine knit, and again, the sleeves can't be any shorter than elbow length (so most of the "pouf" is actually nearer the elbow than shoulder). I would totally stay away from any woven pouf sleeve, even if it has longer sleeves, because these will stand away from your arms and shoulders, and make them seem really broad.

Most of the empire waist tops I've seen around lately have tiny pouf cap sleeves (not so great for us broad shouldered gals). Hopefully we'll see some nice sleeveless ones later in the summer.

18 years ago

mayapple

Active Member

Are you wearing a good bra? I would look at that first. The shape of my bust changes dramatically depending what bra I'm wearing. I actually know exactly which bras to pair with which tops in my closet. I like to wear a molded cup with empire tops, or a minimizer.

Nicole gives some very good advice. Keep the top part as clean and minimal as possible. Also pay attention to where the sleeve ends. Something elbow length or 3/4 length is always good. I don't know much about broad shoulders since mine are quite slender, but I find these lengths universally flattering. If you go shorter, make sure to avoid puff sleeves, banded sleeves, and cap sleeves. Sleeveless tops with thick shoulder straps should look good too.

But definitely do some experimenting with bras. I think that is most likely the culprit.

18 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Patience, is the area under your bust the smallest part of your body, or is your waist smaller?

18 years ago

Patience

Veteran

Because I have a bit of a baby belly, the smallest part of my torso is a tad higher than my waist at the bottom of my rib cage.

18 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Okay. The right empire line should work. But no hectic gathers - subtle is fine. Perhaps it’s the length that’s incorrect? Where does the length finish?

18 years ago

emilykate

Active Member

Empire tops are hit and miss for me, too. I have an hourglass figure with relatively broad-ish shoulders and a generous bust and I find that an empire top with any extra volume/gathering/pleats/that doesn't just skim the body makes me look, well, fertile.

18 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Quite right Emily. This makes sense.

18 years ago

Patience

Veteran

The length I'm looking for is somewhere along the thigh to wear with skinnies. When I think of the longer tops that worked for me this winter, I had a belted one, straight one and one empire that was only slightly a-line which is what got me thinking that I should look for similar shaped spring styles.

18 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Mid-thigh and just above the knee are good lengths.

18 years ago

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