https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability Style Advice for Fashion Lovers en-US Sun, 19 Apr 2026 03:58:56 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/search.php https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518506 Sun, 12 Jul 2015 05:25:17 +0000 puppycat 1518506@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p><b></b><br /><b>I use an item called a sweater stone to depill natural fiber fabric.&nbsp; For synthetics I use a sweater shaver.&nbsp; The key is to use a light touch and several passes.</p> <p>I confess I would not bother to shave rayon as it will instantly re-pill if it already has the tendency.&nbsp; As someone said upthread, it's due to manufacturers using shorter, cheaper fibers in their fabric due to increased demand.&nbsp; This is probably why older garments do not pill regardless of number of washes---they were made of better, longer-staple fiber at that time.</p> <p>I personally think that brands call rayon fabric <br />"viscose" or "modal" because it sounds better than rayon, which for those over 40 has a bit of a connotation as being cheap &amp; tricky to wash.&nbsp; Many rayon wovens in the 70s/80s/90s were not high quality.&nbsp; Younger people probably don't remember or associate it the same way.</p> <p>I had a woven rayon navy blue suit in the late 80s which I wore to job interviews when I was first looking for work.&nbsp; It was inexpensive and I thought it looked decent but after a few dry cleanings it got a strange shiny look to the fabric.&nbsp; A good friend finally told me to my face that it looked tatty and cheap.&nbsp; Picture something Melanie Griffith would have worn in "Working Girl"....if you remember that movie.&nbsp; (I replaced it with a lovely wool suit from a consignment store which was classic and lasted forever. I'd still be wearing it if it only still fit but I am no longer a 80s size 8 -- which is about equivalent to a 2015 size 4 or so.)<br /></b> </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518469 Sun, 12 Jul 2015 02:43:17 +0000 Sylvie 1518469@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Wow, there is some fantastic information in the replies! Thank you, all of you, for making this a much more useful thread.</p> <p>Wikipedia kindly informed me that viscose, modal and lyocell are forms of rayon and that most rayon tends to be viscose...in which case, I'm not sure when/why manufacturers choose to label something as rayon instead of viscose.</p> <p>Also, the manufacturers are never going to tell us what staple length fiber they are using or give us a fabric swatch to test out (which incidentally is what I do for my handknit projects - knit a swatch and abuse it first).</p> <p>I have started checking out the clothes on the display mannequins to see if they have any surface blur.&nbsp; Also, I may give the fabric a few quick rubs - if I see a change after that teeny tiny bit of abrasion, then it was going to happen sooner or later without my interference.</p> <p>I have tried depilling with a razor (manual and sweater shavers) and have never found a method that works reliably and quickly.&nbsp; The sweater shavers conk out fast - I would be happy to spend a good chunk of money for a shaver if it was backed by an ironclad replacement/return policy. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518406 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 23:14:49 +0000 Brooklyn 1518406@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>This is very interesting. Thanks for sharing.<br /> I have personally found pure cotton and pure wool the most resistant to pilling. I do wash in the machine (delicate) but don't use a dryer. I have had some wool blends pill very quickly. And viscose tends to develop a fine pill that is hard to scrape off. (I use my husbands razor to de-pill knits. I would be interested if others have better techniques!)<br /> Fabrics usually pill more easily in areas where the fabric is rubbed by say a belt or cross body bag. I have learnt the hard way to be careful of this. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518345 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 20:22:00 +0000 deb 1518345@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>This is interesting. I have three sweaters from the&nbsp;H&amp;M Bassics collection that are 50/50 viscose/acetate. One is three years old and the other two are two years old. None have pilled after multiple times in the washer and dryer. I think pilling is dependent on the weave and the tightness of the twist in a fiber. A tight twist cashmere will last much longer&nbsp;than a loose twist. </p> <p>Here is more info on rayon/viscose/bamboo...</p> <p>&nbsp;<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon" rel="nofollow">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon</a></p> <p>I find this interesting - </p> <p>In early 2010, the U.S. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_Trade_Commission" rel="nofollow">Federal Trade Commission</a> warned several <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retailer" rel="nofollow">retailers</a> that six major <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manufacturer" rel="nofollow">manufacturers</a> were <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deceptive_advertising" rel="nofollow">falsely labeling</a> rayon products as "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo" rel="nofollow">bamboo</a>", in order to appeal to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecology" rel="nofollow">environmentally</a> conscious consumers. While rayon may be produced from bamboo as a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raw_material" rel="nofollow">raw material</a>, and both rayon and bamboo may be used for similar <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fabric" rel="nofollow">fabrics</a>, rayon is so far removed from bamboo by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_process" rel="nofollow">chemical processing</a> that the two are entirely separate.<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon#cite_note-13" rel="nofollow">[13]</a></p> <p></p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518340 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 19:56:13 +0000 elpgal 1518340@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Great analysis. I find my most durable options are nylon/silk and cotton/silk. Silk is also durable but I baby it, so I don't know if it is the nature of the fabric or my loving care that contributes to its longevity. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518300 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:27:54 +0000 Laura (rhubarbgirl) 1518300@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Gaylene and puppycat, thanks for the additional details - I love learning more about fabrics and the clothing construction process. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518292 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:03:31 +0000 puppycat 1518292@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I've worked as a professional costume tech and have done a lot of personal sewing with rayon in all its iterations (viscose, cellulose, cupro, modal, etc).&nbsp; In the 80s and 90s when I started sewing, and I used to look for rayon knits specifically because I ran hot, lived and worked in a very hot environment, nd they were drapey (unlike cotton) and breathable.&nbsp; There was a brand called OK Sam (think ethnic/drapey/lagenlook) which I used to save up to buy because it was so comfortable and was made of rayon knit. Back then, the problem that kept most rayon knits off the market wasn't pilling, it was the fact that this fabric developed holes very easily, so it wasn't widely used in manufacturing other than a few specific brands.&nbsp; It was hard to find up until the more recent cotton crisis.</p> <p>Rayon knits exploded in the past decade because the cost of cotton went through the roof and manufacturers needed a cheap replacement fiber that would work with the more fluid fits.&nbsp; Rayon began to be manufactured and sold in huge quantities and varying qualities. &nbsp; I've been a happy camper because I love this fabric---nowadays I don't see the hole problem as much but the pilling has definitely increased across the board. </p> <p> Printed rayon knit, I have found,&nbsp; fades like crazy and shows pills, so although I love it, I stay away for work/professional wear. My solution is to stick to black rayon knits - tops, cardigans, drapey jackets-- for work because they don't show the pills and keep me cool. I've found that my black rayon from mid-range designers has held up well and it's regularly machine washed and dried.&nbsp; For casual wear--graphic tees, kimono jackets and other weekend tops, and casual maxi dresses---I just accept that they're going to be one or two season pieces.&nbsp; This is simply not a hard wearing fabric but I don't always need it to be.</p> <p> </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518287 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 16:52:15 +0000 Gaylene 1518287@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Actually Smittie is correct in explaining viscose, rayon, and modal are members of the same fabric family. The fabric is a "semi-synthetic" because it is made from a naturally grown, cellulose pulp--usually wood or bamboo--unlike other synthetic chemical or petroleum-based fabrics like spandex, nylon, or polyester. Being cellulose-based is what gives rayon its similarities to other cellulose fabrics like cotton and linen </p> <p>The differences in rayon-based fabrics comes from the manufacturing processes. "Regular" rayon biggest weakness is its low wet strength which is why it usually labelled dry-clean only to prevent shrinking. Modal is a modified rayon which has been processed to give it high wet strength so it can be washed and dried using regular laundering. Modal can also be mercerized like cotton to give it additional strength and lustre. </p> <p>The differences in performance between items labelled viscose, rayon, microfibre, lycocell (Tencel) and modal are the product of the manufacturing process, dyes and fabric treatments, fibre width and length, and knitting and weaving techniques. "Regular" rayon/viscose fibre is actually quite pill resistant but knitting with short rather than long fibres can lead to a fabric that pills easily--the same as with cotton and wool. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518272 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 16:18:34 +0000 Laura (rhubarbgirl) 1518272@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Your results correlate with the anecdotal evidence I've collected as well. I actually like rayon/viscose a lot for its feel against the skin and its drapiness, but it is for sure not the most durable fiber, especially in knits. In wovens it isn't quite as pill-y, but is definitely most suited to looser garments that aren't under a lot of strain at the seams. I've read that cellulosic fibers (rayon, viscose, bamboo, tencel, etc.) are weakest when they're wet, which is why they don't do well dried in a drier. Most of my rayon I wash in the delicate cycle and air dry.</p> <p>The feel of garments against my skin is important to me, as well as breathability, and I'm willing to give up a little durability for those factors. (And, honestly, who among us really wants to wear the same exact clothes for literally decades?) But knowing this when you buy something is for sure better than being unpleasantly surprised by something wearing out much faster than you expected. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518262 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 15:34:50 +0000 Jenn 1518262@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Angie referred to viscose and rayon as "semi-synthetic fibers" in a recent post, which is a good description. I've noticed the same things about how those fabrics hold up, but I appreciate how breathable they are compared to polyester, so they definitely have a place in my wardrobe. One version I avoid now is Tencel (lyocell) because I swear it stains the minute I look at it.<b></b> </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518238 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 14:15:58 +0000 Anonymous 1518238@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>This is a GREAT post. &nbsp;I will be saving it and consulting it prior to making future purchases. &nbsp;</p> <p>I look forward to your analysis of linen. &nbsp; </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518208 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 13:13:07 +0000 Anonymous 1518208@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Viscose and rayon are roughly the same thing and they are natural fibres, sort of.<br /> At one time, viscose referred to bamboo.<br /> At one time, rayon referred to beech trees.<br /> But now I believe rayon and viscose are used interchangeably.<br /> What makes them "man made" is that the bamboo/beech is made into pulp using some sort of chemical process and spun into yarn....Or something like that.<br /> So they are man made natural fibers.<br /> They are far less durable than cotton, that's for sure, but they drape nicely.<br /> They are super breathable and absorbent.<br /> When people talk of 100% bamboo sheets they're talking about viscose/rayon. I don't think ppl are allowed to label things as bamboo anymore. It is misleading because the bamboo has been so processed, it is not really bamboo any more.</p> <p>I know this stuff because I worked making cloth diapers for a while. Cotton cloth diapers were WAY more durable than the "bamboo" ones, but people sure felt good buying the bamboo ones. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518200 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:55:32 +0000 Joyce B 1518200@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>That's great information, thanks for sharing it.<br /> Linen is a very strong fiber but I am afraid it's a favorite of moths so it's good to use moth preventatives and to store it carefully. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518195 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:46:17 +0000 dakotacheryl 1518195@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Great info Sylvie !!</p> <p>What cheeses me off, is when garments pill along the chest where my car seatbelt rubs. And there is sometimes differences between the same top, but in different colors.</p> <p>I had a pink silk knit EF pill across the chest in the first wearing...and the identical top in a coral color hasn't done this a whole year later.</p> <p>Makes me crazy !!</p> <p>I agree that, usually, silk, cotton and linen are the best choices.</p> <p>Viscose is the WORST. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518177 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 11:46:38 +0000 Greyscale 1518177@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Hooray for data! And yeah, I hate modal because of how quickly it pills, plus I don't like its feel on my skin. I only wear natural fibers because I am weirdly uncomfortable with the feel of most synthetics, but I've been meaning to try more viscose because its texture doesn't annoy me as much. Sad to see it doesn't hold up well. Though I see it in a lot of blends with wool that are probably dry clean only. I wonder - wool suiting material hardly ever needs cleaning, but does a wool/viscose blend need more frequent cleaning? </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518153 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 10:31:05 +0000 Vildy 1518153@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I've been experimenting with adding some more linen and linen blends. <br />I thrift most of my clothes and I can do my own alterations so the expense isn't a factor but if they "fail" then the disgruntlement is a factor. </p> <p>I got an outfit of pale apple green linen blend pants and sleeveless shirt/vest.&nbsp; I like to tack my inner front facings down by hand. I noticed that my needle was leaving small holes. WTF?&nbsp; I'd never had that happen before with anything. I tried wearing the pants and they were weirdly cut so that they were loose-ish - what I wanted for humid weather - but tightened quite a bit around the thighs when I sat down. I shortened them to crop pants, thinking that might help relieve any strain and give ease in lifting up a bit to sit. While doing so, I happened to hold them up to the light and saw seam slippage. That's where the seam stitching holds up just fine but some difference between the strength of the thread and the strength of the fabric weave causes fine shredding so that part of the weave is holding in the seam and the other half of the weave is pulling away. Aieeee.&nbsp; </p> <p>One fix is to open everything up, iron on interfacing and then re-stitch deeper. Yeah, right. The heck with them. They were linen plus silk, two fibres I would think were durable. </p> <p>I wondered, too, how people iron garments composed of two fibres that require totally different temperatures. Rayon and linen, for example. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518138 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 07:36:11 +0000 Anonymous 1518138@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Wow, so thorough! This is really interesting. I' going to take a look at some of my items to compare and see how they have held up. I definitely agree on some of the viscose garments, add viscose and wool mix to that list. I have a new top that is pilling already.<br /> Going to favourite this for future reference. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/unscientific-analysis-of-knit-fabric-durability#post-1518135 Sat, 11 Jul 2015 07:28:33 +0000 Sylvie 1518135@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Protocol: Fabric composition and condition of summer tops, cardigans and dresses made of knit fabrics were recorded from a single wardrobe. Retail prices ranged from ~$15 to $100+, representing a reasonable range of high to low. Brands examined included Ann Taylor, Karen Kane, Desigual, Classiques Entier and INC. Longevity in wardrobe and laundry care were reported by fallible wardrobe owner.</p> <p>Least durable to most durable (garment count in parentheses)</p> <p>100% Viscose (4)<br />96% rayon/3% spandex (1)<br />92% rayon/8% spandex (1)<br />90% rayon/10% spandex (1)<br />60% cotton/40% modal (2)<br />55% cotton/45% viscose (1)<br />86% lycra(supplex)14% nylon (1)<br />52% silk/48% nylon (4)<br />70% silk/30% nylon (1)<br />73% silk/27% cotton (1)<br />100% cotton (4)<br />95%Polyester/5% Spandex (1) <br />92% Polyester/2% Spandex (1)<br />92% cotton/8% spandex (1)<br />95% cotton/5% spandex (1)<br />100% silk (4)</p> <p>Further notes on results:<br />* 100% modal sometimes pilled hanging in the wardrobe before even being washed.<br />* Rayon blends lasted through a season of machine wash+dry cycles before pilling. Cotton/modal blends lasted a bit longer. Pilling could be delayed by air drying and probably could be reduced further if subject wasn't too lazy to hand wash.<br />* Cotton and polyester held up through frequent machine wash + dry cycles over the course of 4-5 years.<br />* Silk was either hand washed/air dried or never washed.<br />* No correlation between price and durability was observed.</p> <p>In conclusion: Viscose, you are dead to me. Rayon and modal, you are on probation and only allowed to appear in inexpensive garments where you make up less than 50% of the fiber content.</p> <p>Future research planned: 100% Linen tops have been purchased in the past 6 months and show good longevity potential.</p> <p>Disclaimer: YMMV. Small sample size + the same fiber blend can be manufactured at different levels of quality. However there is a clear correlation within the clothes I've purchased and I <b>hate </b>spending the time shopping only to toss clothes within a season.</p> <p>Have you noticed any factor that correlates to durability in your wardrobe?</p>