YouLookFab Forum » Topic: The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11

YouLookFab Forum » Topic: The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11 https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11 Style Advice for Fashion Lovers en-US Wed, 15 Apr 2026 07:52:39 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 <![CDATA[Search]]> q https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/search.php Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144183 Tue, 15 Sep 2020 13:54:23 +0000 Chris987 2144183@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Thanks PaulaF, always glad to inspire And yes I'll provide more updates. Suz, thanks so much for taking the time to share! Excellent point about boot measurements. That business about "the widest part would not hit where it was anticipated to hit" is SUCH a common theme for me,. In my case it's usually about the NARROWEST part, and it happens a LOT of the time on fitted jackets or coats, sometimes even if they are petites sizes! I think you are right that it's true for jeans too in terms of length and where it hits the widest part of your leg. Proportions are all off as you said.  I brought home a pair of skinnies recently to try on and could almost not get my foot through the hem, even though they were very stretchy. My legs are not skinny but my feet are small, so go figure! Those hem openings were 11". So I completely agree with your 12" minimum for a slim jean, that's my new minimum too. Funny that it works for both of us given our quite different body types and several inches of height difference.  I'm now keeping a list of what measurements do and don't work in an Icloud file so I can refer to it on my iPhone when I'm shopping. Plus I bring a tape measure to measure pants on the rack.  I don't bother with petite jeans either, except for a few brands I've worn in the past where I know the rise measurements are a little shorter than regular sizes, which can work for me -  NYDJ, Talbots, WHBM, and Loft (but from a few years ago, not sure they still do it). Most brands just have a shorter inseam for petite sizes and often it's too short given my preference for full length. It's funny, I did a fair amount data analysis in my career, in the software world, but I never imagined that approach would come in so handy in finding jeans that fit! :-)  Suz on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144141 Tue, 15 Sep 2020 05:08:26 +0000 Suz 2144141@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Chris, you are doing yoe-woman's work that should benefit us all! Thank you!  On the subject of leg opening width -- I feel you!! And agree with you, too. For me, this is an absolutely CRUCIAL measurement. (Which, frustratingly, is not always available.)  I have a bit of a complicated theory about it, too. So, it's not just that our legs are not skinny. That is part of it, for sure. But not all.  I learned, when trying to buy knee high boots,  that the calf measurement given for the boot was never enough information for short-calved me. Because that measurement assumed a certainly placement on the leg -- and on me, with my shorter legs, the widest part would not hit where it was anticipated to hit.  I think it's similar with jeans. The place they think will hit your ankle, is, well, in our case, probably trailing on the ground about to be cut off in order to hem the thing to the right length. So the proportions are all off.  Anyway. I have a couple of rules. 98% cotton, 2% spandex almost exclusively. (I won't be absolutist about that because I do have a few jeans with a bit of poly that happen to work...and also a few 100% cotton...but I am wary.)  12" bottom leg opening at minimum for a slim jean vs. a jegging-like skinny.  Front rise between 8" (for medium on me) to 10" (very high on me) -- back rises longer to accommodate my bum.  I always have to buy regular jeans -- can't deal with petite. Shorts sometimes work -- but I almost never have that option here in Canada. So it's always hemming.  You know my go-to brands already, but I will say -- my premium jeans pay for themselves and then some. I also like a few of the less premium brands, but they never last as long, work as well, win as much favour. Having said that, it has to be the right premium for you. I've had other premium brands that were "nice enough" and "okay" but not -- for this body -- worth the extra. (Fortunately, purchased on sale).  PaulaF on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144119 Tue, 15 Sep 2020 00:35:29 +0000 PaulaF 2144119@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Chris, that was a fascinating OP. I actually feel enlightened. I’d never thought about those measurements before, but of course it makes great sense to know what you are looking for in this regard. I’m inspired to try to figure out my prefs now! Good luck in your continued search...you’ll keep us posted? Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144116 Tue, 15 Sep 2020 00:02:15 +0000 Chris987 2144116@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Good suggestion Aquamarine!  Aquamarine on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144035 Mon, 14 Sep 2020 02:31:32 +0000 Aquamarine 2144035@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Great analysis. You know, I almost never pay full price for premium denim. Almost everything goes on sale eventually. It’s worth stalking, especially now with constant sales everywhere. Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2144021 Sun, 13 Sep 2020 22:26:19 +0000 Chris987 2144021@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Happy to oblige Roberta! One of the things I like best about YLF is how other people's postings can be so helpful, so I'm happy to pass it forward. I never think of Kohls, since in my last in store visit a couple of years ago I didn't like ANYthing. Maybe it's time to reconsider. Thanks SarahD8 - let's hope the retailers do increase the level of detail they supply. Shevia - you are SO right that ultimately it's the try on that really gives you the info you need. Jaime on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143913 Sun, 13 Sep 2020 02:38:52 +0000 Jaime 2143913@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Excellent recon work! Your point about different washes having different compositions is important and not often mentioned. Totally agree that brand self-description of rise is on par with brand self-description of size in terms of accuracy or relevance. Anymore than 2% non-cotton starts to be more stretchy than I like. And even when the numbers are all right a try on is the only way to know. SarahD8 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143910 Sun, 13 Sep 2020 02:10:37 +0000 SarahD8 2143910@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Chris, I share your frustrations (I think I've ranted on here before about the meaninglessness of rise descriptions) and I applaud your well thought out search. I do not understand why the move to online shopping is not causing retailers to provide more measurement info! It seems to me that would save so many returns which must impact their bottom line to some degree. Argh, so frustrating! I hope your search pays off soon! Roberta on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143904 Sun, 13 Sep 2020 00:11:42 +0000 Roberta 2143904@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Your effort has clarified my denim needs, thank you! Right now I have a flare legged pair that I love but probably should have bought a size smaller, from Kut from the Kloth. I also have what used to be considered skinny Levi's from Kohl's, that I paid about $20 for and are the ones I wear almost all the time. I mostly look at the rise, and am about to return a pair from Banana Republic that were just a smidge too high. They list most measurements online and I liked the fabric feel, so you might look there (but I note that they do have some poly in their denim). I want a dark wash, slim leg, ankle length jean with 2-3% elastane. I find that if jeans fit right in the hip and thigh, they are often too tight in the waist. I might have to go back to Kohl's. Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143869 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 20:27:55 +0000 Chris987 2143869@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Thanks Angie. W&W is definitely on my list. Interesting point about how the meaning of "skinnies" has changed over time. Like so many other things, fashion-related and otherwise. :-)  Angie on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143853 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 19:14:12 +0000 Angie 2143853@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Don't forget Warp + Weft!  Good job figuring these things out, Chris! I don't like soft and stretchy jeans either - or pants, for that matter. Prefer mine stiff with no more than 2% spandex.  Over the years, skinnies have become like jeggings. They used to be like a regular slim straight leg back in the day.  Star (Lise) on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143828 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 15:01:50 +0000 Star (Lise) 2143828@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Yes!   I should have specified I only wear 2% spandex with 98% cotton.  Or 100% cotton. Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143815 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 13:55:44 +0000 Chris987 2143815@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Jenn - you are so right that sometimes the ideal is not to be. I'd just settle for something that fits well, in a reasonably close match for fabric I'd like Kate - yes, yes, yes! I just did a chat yesterday with Old Navy, and I swear the person had no idea what I meant by "hem opening size". She kept repeating the inseam length. I did something similar with LLBean to ask about exact length of a sweater and they gave it to me quickly, in inches :-). I asked Athleta over chat for a precise rise length when everything was closed and was told they could not tell me, I'd have to wait until the stores opened up again and go look there. I love your idea of developing a "profile" - that is in fact what I've been doing but didn't think of it so clearly. And yes the choice of shoes make a HUGE difference. Suntiger, thanks, and you bet I'll be duplicating once I find some good ones!!! I already duplicate a lot so no prob. Slim Cat, I've been on the verge of giving up too...but jeans are such a big part of my wardrobe and I hate wearing ill fitting clothes so I need to persevere. Star - the 2% spandex rule is a good one, but I've also learned that rayon and poly can also add to stretchiness and are often included in ADDITION to spandex. Janet - thanks, and tou are right that online returns do take a LONG time to process these days, at every vendor. I've had to track things a lot longer before I get my refund. And hes it's absolutly exhausting! I just keep reminding myself that I ended up down this road because I  succeeded in losing some weight, which was an important health goal for me.  Thanks nemosmom, good advice nemosmom on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143803 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 13:16:45 +0000 nemosmom 2143803@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ You have done a lot of work, Chris, and I am sure something will turn up.  I nodded along with every point you made! Brands are ALL OVER the place on defining fits - and it is SO frustrating!  Keeping in mind the measurements and fabrication you want will help you eliminate options early on. Janet on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143789 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 12:11:26 +0000 Janet 2143789@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ It’s soooo challenging! I confess, I’m glad I don’t *need* more jeans now because it’s hard enough to find the right ones even when I can shop in person and try on in store. Ordering and returning can be exhausting. A word of warning, too: Athleta took well over a month to process my refund when I ordered and returned an item back in May. They are under the same corporate umbrella as Gap and BR so I’m not sure whether these problems remain, but expect any online order returns from them to take a long time to process. You may want to buy at Gap in store if possible, even if you can’t try on there. I suspect that in-person returns are processed quicker. Good luck on the continued search! Star (Lise) on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143786 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 11:59:20 +0000 Star (Lise) 2143786@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ I never want more than 2% spandex in my jeans because then they are too stretchy. slim cat on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143772 Sat, 12 Sep 2020 04:21:29 +0000 slim cat 2143772@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ That's a lot of data analyzing - great job on narrowing the search. I just gave up on the idea of the new perfect jeans - going to wait a year or so to see what will be happening with denim styles. Anonymous on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143735 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 23:46:40 +0000 Anonymous 2143735@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Welp- life in 2020! With online ordering we just have to approach everything scientifically- especially pants of any sort. Probably best once you find ones you like, just buy several pairs! Kate on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143733 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 23:38:18 +0000 Kate 2143733@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Wow Chris, you did a great job figuring out what makes your perfect jean. Having that info really does make it so much easier to shop for jeans, as long as the manufacturer makes all the data points you need available. If numeric info isn’t available—and you’re SO right that relying on numeric info rather than descriptions is key—I will call and ask if I’m truly interested in the product. Sometimes it’s available and sometimes it’s simply not supplied by the manufacturer. But the more we demand this info, the more likely companies will be to supply it. It literally took me years to do what you did, but after wearing lots of ill-fitting jeans over such a long timespan, I finally took a tape measure to all my jeans instead of moaning about the issue all the time. Amazing what some good data can reveal! I took into account the parts that worked on each pair of jeans and why, like the sweet spot of a 12” hem circumference, or what didn’t, like a 9-10” rise—uncomfortably droopy and verging on indecent in the lower range!—and held firm in buying nothing less than 98% cotton to ensure the right feel and integrity of the fabric. For me inseam varies depending the shoes I’ll typically be wearing with the jeans. My first profile was for my beloved skinny jeans (I found my perfect skinny in COH’s Olivia.) I developed another profile for the high-waisted wide-leg jeans that are a current favorite of mine, and another for the slim trousers I also enjoy wearing. Aside from the premium Olivias—I bought mine on sale; as perfect as they are, I’m not sure I would spring for them at their retail price of $268—other jeans that fit my profile have come from the Gap and Uniqlo. My COS jeans almost make the grade, but their 10-inch rise is a killer. Happy hunting! Jenn on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143730 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 23:33:43 +0000 Jenn 2143730@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ (Just had to giggle, because I'm very much a jeans person and I ALSO have two pairs, JenniNZ!) Your HEWI searches are always very thorough, Chris. I hope you find what you're looking for. Sometimes, when I have a very specific vision in my head of what I want, I find that nothing out there really lives to the ideal I've been imagining. Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143726 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 23:25:15 +0000 Chris987 2143726@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/  Thanks unfrumped.! Exactly!!! the definitions of  skinny are not consistent brand to brand. Nor are definitions of slim or straight...That's why I'm focusing on hem opening measurement (aka circumference). Yeah that whiskering is all too prevalent if it's not what you want. :-)  THanks Jenni NZ. I wear jeans almost every day so I need a bit of a collection to avoid laundry bottlenecks, plus I like some variety to make outfit creation more interesting. I'm trying to branch out this year and wear other types of pants more but that is slow going, I'm just to used to jeans as my daily thing.  Jenni NZ on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143721 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 22:14:40 +0000 Jenni NZ 2143721@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Well Chris talk about good effort! Just out of interest, I once paid around $200 for jeans, back in 2006 when I had had no jeans for over a decade and both my style and figure had changed after the 3 kids. They were a petite NZ made brand and I wore them for at least 5 years, a lot. So it can be worth it. I am not really a jeans person and currently have only 2 pairs. I wish you luck! unfrumped on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143713 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 21:14:18 +0000 unfrumped 2143713@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Chris987 , this is great. I have wanted to do a post just like this but have not been as dedicated. Ditto, ditto, everything about rise, length, hem widths, fabrics. I wanted to find something like a dark wash straight but most “ straight” now is pretty skinny! ( I forget that skinny means “ leg- sucking tight”. ) I can see the benefits of some stretch, but then the fit is often very tight through the thigh and crotch and worse for bulgy bits than a jean that is just cut differently and better for my shape. and also the combination fabrics seem a lot hotter. So I’ve learned I really like very cotton-y jeans, maybe 2% elastane or maybe a tad more. But these don’t as often come in darker washes. And what’s with the fake whiskering? I have had to reject lots due to that. It seems like “ years ago” you could more easily get jeans without whiskering marks. Thanks for a great analysis ! Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143695 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:29:23 +0000 Chris987 2143695@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ kellygirl - Hem opening measurement means the circumference of the jeans measured at the very bottom of the leg at the hem. A skinny jean style has a smaller measurement than a straight leg style, and a wide leg is even larger. It has a direct bearing on how snugly the jean leg will fit on your body.  My legs are not skinny so a "skinny jean" would fit my legs more tightly than on someone with slimmer legs.  I have very particular style preferences around all this, including what shoes I think work with various hem openings....so try to get exact measurements before I order if I can't try on in person. A lot of stores do not publish this, but they usually do post inseam and rise measurements.  RobinF, I'd love to use the "good enough" system you describe but I find so little of what's stocked in stores is what I want :-)  RobinF on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143690 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 18:10:51 +0000 RobinF 2143690@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Wow, I admire your dedication! I tend to give up and just get something that is "good enough". Sometimes this works out just fine but other times not. kellygirl on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143684 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 17:59:36 +0000 kellygirl 2143684@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ I'm not sure what hem opening measurement is? They do provide inseam length though. That's usually what I look for because I hate having to alter anything. Some of the denim is offered in petite but I need regular for the rise length. Fortunately, they usually offer the regular sizes in a short length which is my go to. (I do buy regular length in joggers though--with no issue.) I use the size chart as a guide but find that I often go up a size for a more fluid fit--I like that they usually show the jeans on a model so I can get an idea of the fit even if the model is 5'10"... They're definitely worth a look. I've had decent luck at BR too. Good luck! Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143682 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 17:50:02 +0000 Chris987 2143682@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ Thanks kellygirl!  I put GAP on my "no" list as far as online ordering because they do not give hem opening measurements and it's too much of a crapshoot to guess what they mean by "slim" or "skinny". I suppose I could go into a store and just look and measure. Hmmm....I think I'll plan to do that. I do like their quality. I haven't been to either of the two larger malls in my area so this could be an excuse to do so.  kellygirl on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143676 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 17:16:33 +0000 kellygirl 2143676@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ That's a lot of research! Kudos to you for being persistent. I've given up on anything but the Gap. I tried premium denim ages ago but those were such an investment that I was afraid I'd ruin them or put them in the dryer or something. Gap jeans have always fit me--one style or another even though their fits change over the years--they're short inseam offerings mean I don't have to alter most of the time. That's often a big roadblock for me. I've had success with Hudson, Kut from the Kloth and a few others but I always end up back with Gap. Hope that you find the brand that works for you! Chris987 on "The Jeans Hunt: Update #1: 09-11" https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-jeans-hunt-update-09-11#post-2143648 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 15:40:16 +0000 Chris987 2143648@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ I thought I’d do some updates on this from time to time, to help me organize my thoughts, and to help others if these posts do that.  I’ve been doing a LOT of online shopping but it has mostly turned out to be research and elimination of choices rather than finding jeans I want. I am trying very hard to only order jeans that meet my goals, and that takes time.  What I’ve learned 1. Only about 5-10% (non scientific) of jeans for sale these days are the 9-10” front rise, 29”+ inseam, slim leg, non-distressed style I want. AND, they are often available only online. I’ve eliminated entire brands because of this (Pilcro, BananaRep, NYDJ, DL 1961, and others.). I did decide to add one or two pairs of skinnies if I see ones I like.  2. The “rise” terminology (hi, med, low) is like the Wild Wild West, with no standardization. Lucky Brand Lolita low rise jeans have a rise of 8”, JCREW has a 9” high rise jean, Target mid rise skinny universal thread have a front rise of 10.13”, and Anthro has ultra high rises of 10.75”. I’m going with numeric measurements now, and am no longer shopping on sites that don’t give exact measurements. I’ve eliminated more brands due to this. 3. Same  for “slim” vs “skinny” vs “straight”. I’m going with numeric values and again skipping sites that don’t give them. More elimination. 4. I need to be much more particular about inseam length, which is harder in-store. I need to remember to bring a tape measure. .  5. Big Aha moment (smacks head, how did I not get this already?) …the following are indicators of stretchy fabric that is more like leggings than true jeans….and I want real jeans (just my choice of words but you know what I mean)  -  Jeans that claim to “hold you in”  -   Less than 90-95% cotton (not sure where the cutoff point is)  -  Any blend of Cotton/Poly/rayon/spandex or elastane is likely to be very stretchy (sometimes sites list the fabrics but not the percentages) 6. Another big aha moment is to check fabric carefully for different colors. I've seen a pattern where black jeans are very stretchy while blue washes are less stretchy in the same exact style. (Levis in particular)  Must have something to do with how fabrics take dye or something.  Accomplishments so far (in addition to all the research) <ol> <li>Bought half a dozen styles (2 sizes each) at TJMaxx that I returned  (no instore try-ons allowed).  </li> <li>Ordered and a returned a few at Macys.  </li> <li>I made one visit to the super thrift store nearby, which has no treasures but lots of jeans and other clothes. No returns,  fitting rooms are still closed. I’m thinking about going again, wearing some leggings, and doing try-ons in the aisle but that might not be allowed. </li> <li>Bought one pair of jeans, same as the brand shown below but a different model. Found at TJMaxx. I un-stitched the hem so I can fold it up to be a narrower cuff, which I prefer. </li> <li>Have some possibilities at Macys, Zappos, Talbots, Everlane, and Boden  to review next.  Not quite ready to look at the ones that cost $200 :-) </li> </ol> All inputs or suggestions gratefully accepted!  My original posting with lots of suggestions from fabbers is here <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/iso-new-to-me-brands-of-jeans">https://youlookfab.com/welookf.....s-of-jeans</a>