https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing Style Advice for Fashion Lovers en-US Sat, 25 Apr 2026 00:09:54 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/search.php https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756677 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 07:20:40 +0000 Gigi 1756677@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I haven't done too much in the way of alterations; I just keep shopping until I eventually find something that fits right. I have to *really* like something if I'm going to spring for alts.&nbsp;</p> <p>My issue is that I am very narrow through the shoulders, so the shoulders are often too wide; and my shoulders are small, so the armholes are often too low, creating a lot of excess fabric in the shoulder and bust area. Changing all of this on a top, according to my tailor, would be around $30. That is a significant addition to the original cost. Also, I tend to like things that have different decorative elements (crocheted or lace panels, etc.), and oftentimes, I can tell that the alteration will cause a decorative element to be moved to a spot that will not look right, or the alteration would require that a crocheted panel would get cut right through the middle, which would probably be pretty messy. So I generally stick with simple alterations like hemming or taking in the waist on a skirt. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756648 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 04:53:29 +0000 Carla 1756648@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Letting down hems to get extra length with pants, removing shoulder pads, and changing buttons is something I do with some regularity. </p> <p>Extra holes for belts and purse straps as well.</p> <p>Sometimes you can luck on a designer who works with a fit model with your proportions. Anything from the Ralph Lauren-Lauren line fits like it was made for ME! LOL! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756647 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 04:43:32 +0000 Karie 1756647@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I sew and can do my own alterations. My usual alterations are to take in the waistband and the back seam on pants. On dresses, I sometimes have to take in the bust and the side front. I'm on the tall side, so I often have to let out the hem.&nbsp;</p> <p>Since I do sew, I can tell when I try something on what it will take to make it fit me perfectly and if I'm up to the task. Other than lengthening/shortening sleeves or moving/changing buttons, I will not alter blazers and coats myself. I could probably do it, but I've never had to and I'm glad of that.</p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756639 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 03:59:15 +0000 Gaylene 1756639@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>General rules:</p> <p>1. Taking in along a seamline and shortening a simple hemmed sleeve or pant is easy. Shortening hems which have details like a placket, pleats, vents, or zippers is more complicated and may require design changes. </p> <p>2. Letting out seams for more ease is easy if there is enough fabric in the seam allowance. Creative solutions such as inserting fabric gussets and altering design details can sometimes work. Oddly enough, creating more ease in the front or back rise is easy, as Beth Ann notes. </p> <p>3. Woven wools and cottons are easier to modify than napped fabrics (velvets and corduroy), leathers, and embellished fabrics. Knits vary. </p> <p>4. Straight seams are easier to alter than curved or decorative seams. That's why shortening the shoulder line of a sleeveless dress is easy but changing the shape and fit of the sleeve line is hard. </p> <p>5. Adding darts to reduce volume and create a more fitted look is usually easy. Removing a dart is trickier. </p> <p>6. Tailors who work mainly with menswear may not be the best choices for women's alterations. A dressmaker/seamstress/sewist might have more experience modifying a design to fit female curves. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756586 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 01:45:18 +0000 cindysmith 1756586@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>mtnsofthemoon if you know of a high-end boutique in your area (like, one that sells stupidly expensive clothes), ask them who they use for alterations. I found my wonderful tailor by doing just that at a higher end consignment shop. Sadly, I have moved too far away from that tailor and will have to find a new one near my new home, but I'm close enough to Dallas now that I shouldn't have a problem. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756568 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 00:55:16 +0000 Anonymous 1756568@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Hemming pants or sleeves is usually all I ever need, and it's easy. My mom used to say I was very easy to sew for because very few alterations were ever needed. I still don't generally have problems with ready-made garments. Pants are the most difficult, which is why I stick to the brands that work for me. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756558 Sat, 03 Dec 2016 00:21:25 +0000 Beth Ann 1756558@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Here are some adjustments that can be done by someone with a little time and a bit of sewing knowledge:</p> <p>1. &nbsp;Moving buttons over (on sleeves and coats). &nbsp;A little here and a little there makes a big difference</p> <p>2. &nbsp;A snap or velcro to stop bust gape.</p> <p>3. &nbsp;Hemming (I sometimes makes the backs of my hems a tad longer)</p> <p>4. &nbsp;If the rise of your pants is a bit short, it's easy to deepen the crotch seam and give yourself a bit more room.</p> <p>5. &nbsp;It's easy to change the width of trouser legs an taper a skirt. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756493 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 22:22:43 +0000 mtnsofthemoon 1756493@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I can so relate to this topic. &nbsp;I never understood the need to have items altered or at least I have fought the concept. &nbsp;My rational has been like this: &nbsp;if I am paying so much $$ for something why do I have to shell out more $$ to get it fixed? &nbsp;YLF and Angie have convinced me that I need to let go of my attitude and just suck it up, because like cynthiawalkersmith my "junk" is bigger than my waist and for years I have struggled with finding pants that fit right. Now that I am on board my struggle has been finding a good tailor! &nbsp; Going on 3 years and no luck yet. &nbsp;As cynthiawalkersmith accurately points out this is also key. &nbsp;Fingers crossed I can find someone soon as I have about 20 pairs of pants I would love to have tailored to my shape. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756489 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 22:19:13 +0000 Anonymous 1756489@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>The Nordstrom tailor showed me that a jacket that is too big can be an easy alteration if there is a seam down the back. If there isn't, one might be put in. I have had really bad luck with having hip area of pants made smaller and will no longer try it. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756485 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 22:16:31 +0000 El Cee 1756485@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Agreeing with <b>CWS</b>'s terrific list above. The alterations that I have had the most personal success with have been: 1.) Shortening or tapering skirts or pants. 2.) Giving more waist definition to boxier cut button-downs by addition of waist and hip darts. 3.) Taking in waistband of jeans and pants (helpful for those of us who are "hourglassy" or "pretty pears"). I am so grateful to find a good tailor!!!</p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756475 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 22:00:16 +0000 celia 1756475@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I think Cynthia walkers made a good list.<br /> I was raised in a culture where stores had alterations always included so for me it was always a given . In general is easier to buy larger and tailor than the opposite but with the current fashion industry sometimes it might be cheaper to buy a new item than to alter or restore the one you already have. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756456 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 21:41:16 +0000 shedev 1756456@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I used Nordstrum's alterations to shorten the sleeves on a leather jacket. I do some alterations myself, I hem pants, shorten sleeves, take in side seams. the most labor intensive thing I did was a sleeve shortening where I had to reattach the lining and a fake wrist strap on a military jacket. I don't know what that detail is called. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756426 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 21:11:37 +0000 cindysmith 1756426@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Man, I remember when it FINALLY sunk in that maybe Stacy &amp; Clinton were on to something and I started getting more stuff tailored. Before that, it was just hemming pants. They really drilled it home to me that I do not have to take the clothes the way they're offered to me on the rack; I can make it my own.</p> <p>And then when I figured out not all tailors are created equal? It was like the heavens opened and angels sang hallelujah or something when I finally found THE tailor for me. The one that told me what alterations needed to be done, and how much needed to be taken out of the waist, and didn't let me bully her into not taking enough out of the waist when I went in bloated one day and thought she pinned it too tight...that shop was THE shop for me.</p> <p>What slays me about how RTW is made to fit the dressmaker's dummy is that no two dressmakers use the same dummy so nobody has any sort of standardized sizing. I know Angie's on to something with her take on sizing, and it does help to know which stores just don't work for me because their dressmaker's dummy doesn't have a butt like mine or whatever. But, really, even the dressmakers' dummies aren't dummies--theyre all different too!</p> <p>Now, to address the question at hand:</p> <p>Worth taking to a tailor:<br /> *If it just needs the legs or sleeves shortened<br /> *If it needs a little volume taken out by adding darts or taking in side seams, like the lower half of shirts that have to be bought to cover a chest, or the waistband of MY pants that have to be bought to fit my arse and then wind up too big in the waist<br /> *If it is sleeveless and taking some fabric out of the straps will make it fit better (like Janet mentioned)<br /> *Having a taper added to pants legs might be worth it</p> <p>Definitely not worth taking to a tailor:<br /> *If the rise is too high, don't take it to a tailor to have it lowered. Especially if there are pockets and zips and such involved. That's rebuilding the whole damn pair of pants right there.<br /> *If it needs to be let out because it's too tight, probably not worth it because soooo many modern garments don't have seam allowances that make that possible<br /> *If there isn't generous allowance in the hem of skirt or pants, they can't make it longer.</p> <p>Subjective, might be worth it to some but not to others:<br /> *Removing shoulder pads that are sandwiched between the outer layer and lining of a garment. Once that shoulder pad comes out, the way the garment fits is probably going to change, meaning that the sleeves have to be adjusted at the shoulders. Gets spendy. Was worth it for a dreamy Dana Buchman jacket (not the Kohl's stuff, the mainline stuff) that I found for under $10 at a thrift shop<br /> *Removing sleeves can be worth it if you know you'll wear it. I did this to an Armani jacket (sleeves were a wee tiny bit constricting but not bad enough to be noticeable or uncomfortable), thinking I'd wear it. Wrong. I wound up letting it languish in my closet for years before I finally passed it on.<br /> *If I'm in between sizes, sometimes it's worth it to buy the bigger size and have the voluminous parts taken in. This is especially true if it's a great blazer or other investment staple piece that will get worn frequently (like a dress that has to be bought a size bigger because the top or bottom half is not the same size as the other half)<br /> *Knits/sweaters: some thinner knit sweaters might be alterable. Chunky ones, not so much.<br /> *Leather jackets/skirts/etc: potentially alterable, if the leather is thin and there's somebody qualified in your area to do the alterations </p> <p>I'm also going to throw this out there. My shoe guy made some adjustments to shoes and bags that made them wearable: adding holes to straps that were too tight, adjusting the length of a strap/handle on a bag, repairing zippers on bags, and some shoes repair shops are also leather repair shops, and they can potentially deal with thicker/sturdier leathers. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756421 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 21:02:13 +0000 Sara L. 1756421@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I've only had fairly easy alterations done like hemming pants and lifting the shoulders on sleeveless tops. &nbsp;My shoulders are uneven due to scoliosis and I've found that having the shoulders on sleeveless tops fixed makes a big different on how necklines sit. &nbsp;It's an easy, cheap fix. &nbsp;I could use the same fix on sleeved tops as well, but I've never asked about it - it seems like it would be a costly fix. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756413 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 20:58:10 +0000 Suz 1756413@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Hemming pant lengths is easy and always a necessity for me (well, almost always). Often I need sleeves shortened also.&nbsp;</p> <p>One of the easiest and most successful alterations I've had done was with a skirt -- taking it in along the sides to taper.&nbsp; </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756395 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 20:35:13 +0000 old chic 1756395@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>It's also sometimes possible -- in a high-quality item -- to let bottoms out in the waist. This requires the maker to have included extra fabric in the center back seam in the form of a "v." I have seen it frequently in excellent men's trousers, but rarely in women's wear. DHs have all the luck. Or, rather, their needs are catered to. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756354 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 19:29:18 +0000 Janet 1756354@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>It was a epiphany when I realized that I am short in the torso and could get sleeveless tops and dresses shortened at the shoulder to make them fit me. Not so helpful for sleeved garments though. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756352 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 19:25:23 +0000 Anonymous 1756352@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I confess to being a tailoring novice! My trips to the tailor are usually just to shorten the hems of jeans. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/the-dressmakers-dummy-and-modern-sizing#post-1756345 Fri, 02 Dec 2016 19:13:46 +0000 em 1756345@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Ready-made clothing are designed to fit a dressmaker's dummy, and none of us are dummies.</p> <p>With this in mind, I wanted to start a thread about the need for tailoring. I have come to the realization that the cost for alterations need to be built into the cost of the garment. I know people complain about the added cost, but...I think one needs to really consider that whatever is sold in the stores is just a starting point, as none of us are dummies.&nbsp;</p> <p>Most off the rack items don't fit me. I need everything tailored. I have even had BRAS altered.</p> <p>I recall reading that on TLC's What Not To Wear at least a quarter of the wardrobe budget was for tailoring.</p> <p>What are some of the things you have learned regarding alterations? I still have a lot of trouble looking at a garment and determining if it is worth showing to a seamstress.</p> <p>I will start. If it has a waistband, it can be taken in. A good seamstress can even leave the extra material in the event that I gain inches.</p> <p>What about you? </p>