https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality Style Advice for Fashion Lovers en-US Mon, 13 Apr 2026 17:18:59 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/search.php https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-545174 Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:51:06 +0000 Meredith1953 545174@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I have to admit I TRY to look items over before purchasing but sometimes I don't scrutinize them hard enough and end up being unhappy with the workmanship. This will help me pay closer attention! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-545163 Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:32:17 +0000 Ornella 545163@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I have somehow managed to miss this post, good thing it had resurfaced.</p> <p>Fantastic read, thank you so much, both Amy and Steph. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-542198 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:07:38 +0000 ManidipaM 542198@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>cjh: such excellent points! thanks so much for adding those. Cuffs and collars added to the checklist </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-542003 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 03:37:09 +0000 cjh 542003@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I looked for the book I was in love with during my big sewing years when I was making complete wardrobes for myself and two daughters. This is fascinating and teaches amazing techniques in making shirts. Really worth the money and it covers many fine sewing tips for ladies' blouses, too. Amy, Steph, other experienced seamstresses may enjoy it. Taunton Press also has some books and videos teaching sewing basics, for beginners.</p> <p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmak.....1561582646</a> </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541963 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 02:46:21 +0000 Fruitful 541963@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thankyou cjh - I am learning a lot (well, trying to!) </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541960 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 02:41:56 +0000 cjh 541960@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Amy, and Steph,<br /> Thanks to both of you for the good lessons in garment fabric and construction. </p> <p>One thing that is difficult about evaluating "grain" in knits is that many are knit in a tube so the direction of adding to the material is generally in a spiral. So when this material is cut, it is often impossible to BEGIN straight, and washing makes the distortion worse,</p> <p>Everyone has probably had a pair of pants where one leg hangs funny or feels twisted, or a top with one sleeve like that. That is a result of being cut off grain.</p> <p>To add areas you may want to include in "quality inspection" when shopping:</p> <p>Cuffs and sleeve plackets in blouses - smoothly applied, with the sleeve fabric neatly and evenly pleated or gathered into the cuff so the cuff fits close to your wrists. </p> <p>Shoulder seams feel more comfortable if they lie just a little in front of the top line of the shoulder on your body. The garment will have a little longer back piece and more room in the back part of the upper sleeve and shoulder.</p> <p>Collar lies flat with no puckers. The under collar is ideally made of a slightly smaller piece of fabric (as are the underside of cuffs and the inside of the collar stand) so the garment forms a natural curve around the curves of your body. This is how a nicely made man's shirt is made, and women should look for the same quality.</p> <p>Still, not every quality made garment will fit perfectly as we know. Comfortable and flattering fit can be rather elusive. Quality can be found in surprisingly affordable items<br /> and shops. Try on any possibilty and Good luck on the hunt! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541843 Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:14:31 +0000 rachylou 541843@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Great lists! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541832 Wed, 15 Feb 2012 23:54:10 +0000 Fruitful 541832@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Wow, Manidipa, I really appreciate your list! I have so much to learn. Unfortunately some of these issues can't be seen until you've worn the items :(. You mention a lot of things that bother me (scratchy tags, black fading to weird colours, catching linings in a zip - yes! These have happened to me too) - I just never analysed the reason for it, just felt annoyed and mystified. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541301 Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:10:17 +0000 ManidipaM 541301@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>As someone whose first reaction to an eye-catching garment on a hanger is to turn it inside out for an examination of the care label (for fibre content) and seams --- even before I check for size! --- I'd like to say a big THANK YOU to Amy for this post and to Steph for her explanation of fabric grain.</p> <p>A few little pet peeves I haven't seen mentioned include:<br /> (1) scratchy care labels and brand labels that require you to take the garment apart to get them out.<br /> (2) hemming or sewing with mismatched thread (both colour and fibre), and not for the contrast effect(!), especially when the thread is a synthetic fibre on a cotton or linen garment --- because chances are high I'll melt the seams off when ironing them.<br /> (3) failure to note the presence of sensitive or fade-prone natural dyes in fabric --- I adore vegetable dyes and am happy to go the extra distance caring for them, but I need to KNOW that the black is going to go green unless I keep it out of the sun! Or that the indigo will be a slightly different hue after its first wash, which means I don't buy a matching garment to go with it just yet.<br /> (4) Buttons sewn on TOO tightly on a garment that uses a heavier weight material, which means you need to fight to button up and unbutton --- and ultimately the button breaks or goes 'pop'!<br /> (5) Shoes that bleed colour from the insole or lining!<br /> (6) Hems and seams with so little fabric allowance in the folds that even the tiniest alteration is fraught with danger.<br /> (7) Linings that aren't sewn down flat near the zipper, especially with invisible zippers, which means they tend to catch in the teeth and the zipper sticks. (There's supposed to be stitching to flatten the lining at the seam, but not on the outer fabric, where it will show.)<br /> (8) Vents that have not been reinforced.<br /> (9) Interfacing in collars, cuffs and waistbands of poor quality (or just badly attached) so that the garment warps in the wash or while pressing.<br /> (10) metal trim or fasteners that RUST! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-541154 Wed, 15 Feb 2012 03:20:24 +0000 Fruitful 541154@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thankyou so much Amy (and Steph), I was looking for a guide to assessing quality and found this - mwah! &lt;333333 </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-505009 Mon, 09 Jan 2012 07:13:26 +0000 Aida 505009@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Ooooh this is a wonderful post, thank you so much Amy (and all responders)! GREAT list, now I've got some new quality elements to look out for </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-504734 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 22:52:36 +0000 Patty 504734@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Great info Amy and Steph!!<br /> Thanks sooo much for writing it all down and getting links and pics! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-504731 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 22:44:52 +0000 Lantana 504731@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Superlative post, Amy, and the additions from MrsE resonated strongly with me.I was in the middle of making a garment and needed to widen it across the bust. By some happy chance, a random visitor, who just happened to be a professional seamstress, explained the centerline principle to me. I then made the alteration without compromising the centerline and the garment drapes beautifully. Phew, it was a close shave. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-504599 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:18:43 +0000 D'Ellen 504599@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Steph, I didn't know anything about fabric grain, so thank you for your detailed explanation! Twisting seams is one of my biggest peeves. I can't count the knit tops I've had this happen to with their first washing, and for me they're ruined. I won't wear them again. Is there anything to look for in a knit to know if it is off grain? </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality/page/2#post-504590 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:06:41 +0000 mrseccentric 504590@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thank you Amy! again, your post is awesome! i think this has inspired me to get off the behind and try a video about grain in garments - as you say it can destroy a garment and i can't find any decent non-technical explanations. </p> <p>Happy Sunday!!! steph </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504560 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:17:26 +0000 Amy 504560@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Ooh, Steph, those are great additions, thank you!</p> <p>The off grain thing drives me nuts, but I didn't know how to explain it. You did a great job and that's an excellent illustration. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504555 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 17:52:00 +0000 mrseccentric 504555@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Amy - i have found my Quality Twin (even to sewing my own)!!! Brilliant brilliant list, especially since i know how hard it is to organize this topic when there are so many factors to consider. !!!!KILLER POST!!!!</p> <p>I have a couple of additions and some pictures to illustrate one point (how passionate am i about this topic? i read the thread, ran to my husband's closet to find the tee i had in mind, and started snapping pix at 8:30am!)</p> <p>re:polyester. There are some nice polys out there these days which are very comfy to wear. They have some advantages over silk, especially in terms of durability. Softer, floatier weaves (crepes, chiffons) are much more durable in poly than in silk. This brings up another point - quality does not *always* equate with durability. The same with soft, loose knits - they are more likely to pill and get snagged whether high or low quality than harder, closer knits. To educate your hand on 'nice polys' go feel poly blouses in Nordstrom - Bobeau, Plieone, Tahari, Halogen, etc. reliably choose high quality fabrics for their items.</p> <p>re: prints. prints with more individual colors tend to be better quality than those with fewer colors. prints with a larger dark/light range tend to be better quality thank those without. re: stripes, dots, etc. check that the prints lines up with the grain of the fabric.</p> <p>which brings me to Fabric Grain. i found one link which explains grain and why it is important for the beginner -<br /> <a href="http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081110065845AAiHAM3" rel="nofollow">http://answers.yahoo.com/quest.....845AAiHAM3</a></p> <p>A garment may be beautifully constructed in every other respect, but if the fabric is off grain it will all be for naught. Look at picture one - the tee is placed symmetrically on the hanger, shoulder seams straight on the hanger arms. I'm sure this has happened to tees you own - the hem is very uneven and the seams twist from the sides towards the front of back of the garment. Needless to say, this looks awful.</p> <p>I've included a couple of close-ups where you can see how much the seams have distorted. Here's a nice discussion of finding the grain in completed garments (with pix):<br /> <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-find-the-grainline-on-a-sleeve/" rel="nofollow">http://www.fashion-incubator.c.....-a-sleeve/</a></p> <p>Fashion Incubator is a great website for anyone interested in quality, as well as seamstresses. The author has worked designing patterns in the garment industry for decades and has an incredible wealth of knowledge. Many thanks to Vildy for turning me on to this site!!! One additional tip is to check the fabric threads against the center front and center back of the garment - all threads should either be parallel to the center or at 90 degree angle. If they are not the garment was cut off grain and there is no saving it.</p> <p>re:seams - great explanations and pictures Amy! On serged seams, generally you want more thread. The seams on the pictured tee are crummy, not wide enough and could use 'more thread' or more stitches per inch. Of course, with serged seams the more stitches per inch, the more it costs to make. I found a technical but brilliant piece on 'SPI' here:<br /> <a href="http://www.amefird.com.cn/spi.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.amefird.com.cn/spi.htm</a></p> <p>Very worthwhile reading for anyone interested in quality! </p> <p>Thank you again Amy for providing very valuable information in an easy to understand and very succinct fashion!! i am just "wowed"!!! steph </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504391 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 14:07:34 +0000 sarah 504391@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>GREAT post, Amy. I just returned some inexpensive items that ordered from the Nordie's Jrs dept because I decided their quality was not up to snuff. I'm not sure I would have done that a year ago, but I'm trying to be more careful, and not waste my money on poor quality clothing. That said, I have bought several polyester blouses this year that I'm happy with. I prefer silk, but I have such a horrid time finding blouses that fit and that I like that I've "settled" for polyester. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504375 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:43:17 +0000 Mochi 504375@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Fascinating post, Amy! Your knowledge is extensive, and your writing style is clear and easy to read. I know we're ultimately concerned with how the clothes look, but knowing about construction is incredibly interesting too! I'm absolutely on Team Quality. I wrote here recently about a coat order from yoox.com and how disappointed I was in it. Not even being able to sew the (cheaply-made) buttons on snugly? That's not right. And these are designer price points (with some discount...but still HIGH). </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504363 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 08:00:42 +0000 stringy 504363@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thanks so much for this post! I'm on Team Quality, but I don't always know what to look for when I'm buying. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504359 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 07:38:58 +0000 CocoLion 504359@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thank you for this great post. It is a good reminder to check garments carefully before buying. Do you have any suggestions for getting rid of static with silk blouses. I have a yet-unworn Tucker silk blouse, it was pricey. It is so static-y!</p> <p>ETA: I agree you can find quality at a low price, Lands Ends turtlenecks are a good example. Lands Ends makes what I consider good basics, not fashion forward or big on innovative design. If you're talking about great, on trend design mixed with quality workmanship, I find you almost always have to pay a fair amount. Unless someone can prove me wrong. However this kind of apparel also gets marked down after a few months, if it hasn't already sold. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504358 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 07:25:30 +0000 goldenpig 504358@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Great list! Thank you so much for writing it out! So helpful. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504355 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 07:09:50 +0000 san 504355@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Love this, thankyou! Great information for us. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504354 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 06:40:33 +0000 Amy 504354@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I'm glad you enjoyed this post. I hope I'm not coming across as an annoying know-it-all, because I'm not an expert. I'm just an interested hobbyist. I wouldn't claim that this list is comprehensive by any means.</p> <p>Vicki, polyester, acetate and rayon linings can all be nice. As with a lot of things, HOW they are used is what matters. I really love rayon linings except for their tendency to wrinkle. They feel lovely against the skin. I haven't had static problems with rayon, but I have had static build up with silk and polyester; however, if I were to invest in a Chanel jacket, or some other couture piece, I'd expect it to be lined with silk. All of these fibers can be woven/knitted in various ways and that also affects how they behave.</p> <p>Some other tidbits you might be interested in: </p> <p>When thrifting, pay special attention to garments with polyester linings. If they smell bad, you might not be able to wash that smell away. For some reason, it's hard to get bad smells out of polyester.</p> <p>Silk linings are nice because they are mostly stain and wrinkle resistant and they breathe well. Also, silk adjusts to your body temperature, so it feels cool in the summer and warm in the winter.</p> <p>I agree with Bionda and misvee that price doesn't always indicate quality too. You need to use your eyes, hands and brain to evaluate that. Prices can be inflated due to many factors that have nothing to do with quality. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504352 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 05:48:57 +0000 Ana 504352@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I love this post, Amy! I'm favoriting it. Thank you! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504334 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 04:23:15 +0000 MsMaven 504334@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thanks for reminding me of many points I learned in my own sewing days. It is so easy to be seduced by fashion "bargains" and settle for poorer quality. Many brands are holding prices steady by reducing quality of fabric and fabrications. (I'm talking to you, BR.) </p> <p>One of my goals for 2012 is to look for quality over quantity, so your post is timely. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504333 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 04:21:36 +0000 lyn* 504333@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thank you very much for the information, Amy </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504324 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 04:02:39 +0000 Vicki 504324@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Amy, you are one quality woman and this is one quality YLF post. Thank you. If polyester and rayon linings aren't the best for their particular reasons, are you saying that silk is the best choice? I, too, prefer natural fibers and really like the newer additions of Lycra and Spandex. Great post. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504101 Sat, 07 Jan 2012 23:25:27 +0000 shipskitty 504101@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thanks Amy! This was really useful and educational for me. I knew some of the points but others were new to me and will definitely be helpful. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/evaluating-quality#post-504070 Sat, 07 Jan 2012 22:41:54 +0000 D'Ellen 504070@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Amy, thank you for this comprehensive list! My mother sewed and was a perfectionist when it came to garment construction. I learned a lot shopping with her! I usually don't examine the inside of a garment (and your post has reminded me that I should do that) but I'm a stickler when it comes to what shows. Things like crooked stitching and mismatched patterns are a deal breaker for me, and if a costly item has cheap looking buttons I'll pass it up. I sometimes change out buttons on bargain priced items if they otherwise meet my standards.</p> <p>I second missvee in saying that price doesn't always equate with quality. I've been sorely disappointed by some higher end clothing brands, and pleasantly surprised by the fit and performance of some lower cost brands. </p>