https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want Style Advice for Fashion Lovers en-US Fri, 17 Apr 2026 20:12:43 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/search.php https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961448 Thu, 04 Oct 2018 14:28:36 +0000 Bijou 1961448@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Wow such an interesting article and discussion. I wouldn’t mind having the luxury to misbehave, but I would still prefer to wear Phoebe’s clothing. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961290 Thu, 04 Oct 2018 00:51:56 +0000 Vildy 1961290@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>"<br /> the luxury to misbehave" - what a brilliant summation.&nbsp; And couldn't be more opposite to the grown-up self-possessed clothing Philo offered. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961246 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 21:30:16 +0000 binkle 1961246@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p><b>Vildy</b>,&nbsp; I'll agree that "drug addict" is a very loaded term.&nbsp; It's more that Hedi Slimane seems to be the last stronghold of the "Heroin Chic" look (I didn't coin the phrase) from the 80's-90's. It's a tag that sticks with him.</p> <p>But also, generally (not to you specifically Vildy), it's not really whether we like his clothes or even admire is his steadfastness of vision (as Leandra Medine, in the article, says she does), it's the stunning 180 in direction imposed on Celine by its owners LVMH, when Phoebe Philo resigned to spend more time with family.</p> <p>Just found this from New Yorker, which states much better than I can, the change.&nbsp;&nbsp;<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.newyorker.com/culture/on-and-off-the-avenue/what-is-lost-in-hedi-slimanes-celine">https://www.newyorker.com/cult.....nes-celine</a></p> <p>Of Phoebe Philo's years at Celine:<br />"At Celine, she pared down and refined, ushering in a minimalism that wasn’t dull or austere but cozy and comforting. For a decade, she made clothing that women really wanted to wear (or just dreamed of&nbsp;wearing, really, because who among us can&nbsp;actually afford a five-thousand-dollar trench?). She showed chocolate leather and architectural poplin shirts, oversized dusty-pink silk blazers, and asymmetrical pleated skirts the color of lemon chiffon. She did jaunty basics before they went mass, selling women a fantasy of lived-in elegance. Her Celine was still a rarefied luxury brand, but her style permeated the culture beyond her direct consumers."</p> <p>Of Hedi Slimane:<br />"He dressed one male model in the Celine show in a T-shirt that looked like a trapezoidal disco ball, paired with ultra-high-waisted black leather chinos (like Humphrey Bogart meets Klaus Nomi). He put some of the women in color (an emerald-green taffeta mini, a red sparkly party dress with bubble sleeves that looked ready for the Ice Capades), but most of them wore black, with short hemlines and calf-length motorcycle boots. These clothes seem like they should come with a pack of cigarettes and an Adderall; the luxury he is selling is not focus or easy polish but the luxury to misbehave, to fall apart, to stay up too late and party too hard, and let someone else pick up the pieces.&nbsp;This, too, is a seductive promise. And it has been a profitable one—by his third year at Saint Laurent, Slimane had doubled the company’s profits."</p> <p>Maybe that last sentence says it all.&nbsp;</p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961227 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 20:09:24 +0000 annagybe 1961227@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Yeah it's not new, not different.&nbsp;<br />Accessories are where the money is made, so I guess the bags and shoes then. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961222 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 20:02:05 +0000 LaPed 1961222@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Wow, yeah, just checked out the Diet Prada commentary:&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BoUAGv7lpnM/?taken-by=diet_prada">https://www.instagram.com/p/Bo.....diet_prada</a>&nbsp;<br />Striking similarities! No wonder it doesn't look new -- it's not. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961217 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 19:43:11 +0000 Anonymous 1961217@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Agreeing with Janet, those poor models look really unhealthy! I was hoping they were starting to move in a more inclusive direction...<br /> What women want:<br /> Clothes that are appropriate for all aspects of our lives, well made, and take into account all our differences! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961214 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 19:28:19 +0000 annagybe 1961214@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Diet Prada on instagram had a great take down of his collection. And how basically it was a retread of a lot of his stuff from (Yves) Saint Laurent.&nbsp; </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961093 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 12:37:12 +0000 Janet 1961093@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>That's an astute piece. I am not particularly a fan of the new HS Celine from what I've seen so far. It doesn't feel especially fresh to me, and I find the use of the extremely thin models off-putting. I feel like he's giving a middle finger to the movement towards more diversity in size in fashion.&nbsp;</p> <p>And yes, right about now I'm tired of men dictating pretty much everything, much less what we should look like and what we should wear. Politics and fashion have always been intertwined, and I know we are supposed to stay out of politics on this forum, but there comes a point where discussion of fashion is superficial without that larger context.&nbsp;</p> <p>I say, bring on the new generation of designers who are doing exciting things and acknowledging what women truly want.&nbsp; </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961089 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 12:34:06 +0000 Angie 1961089@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p><b>Lisa, </b>SO enjoyed these words:</p> <p><i></i>".....<i>style is more personal than ever and what we deem personal is also extraordinarily political.&nbsp;</i><i>What we wear has never felt more charged....".&nbsp;<br /></i><br />I'm also nodding along with <b>Shevia.</b> MISS Phoebe Philo's Celine. Personally, not a fan of Hedi Slimane designs. High five, <b>La Ped</b>.&nbsp;</p> <p><b>kkards</b>, you're dead right too.&nbsp;<b></b> </p> <p><i></i></p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961084 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 11:18:31 +0000 Vildy 1961084@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p><div><b>KKARDS</b>,&nbsp; I'm 70 and it seemed to me that often fashion precipitated a change in consciousness, from Chanel's suntanning to the shapeless chemise through to the substitution of youth for glamour - youthquake. <br /></div><div>Now it's been seeming the other way round to me.<br /></div></p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961082 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 11:10:17 +0000 kkards 1961082@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>sorry...back to the actual topic...for me the best take on the show was from diet prada showing the celine designs side by side with ysl designs... </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961075 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 10:48:22 +0000 kkards 1961075@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>vildy, was there ever a time when fashion and politics were not intertwined? &nbsp;just in my lifetime i can remember the turbulent&nbsp;1960s and the youth fashion quake vs the establishment fashion, school and employment dress codes that changed from requiring girls and women to wear dresses/skirts...the 1970s the preppie vs disco&nbsp;aesthetic, which in my high school was a proxy for&nbsp;socioeconomic and ethic backgrounds....the punk rock fashions of the 1990s....i could go on.... </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961068 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 10:10:24 +0000 Vildy 1961068@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p><div>Fashion for drug addicts, huh.&nbsp; I didn't get that from the show. What most commentators are saying is that it's really about the tailoring and that the menswear suits are going to be equally available to women. So the drastic change is more one of silhouette, the narrowness vs the previous width. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Even when the same designer stays at the helm of a house, drastic changes can occur and they tend to horrify observers. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I wish fashion and politics were separate spheres but since that's not happening, here's a very good evaluation that goes into what's happening on the runway in service of women's "empowerment." <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/03/get-real-how-the-catwalk-shows-will-change-your-wardrobe">https://www.theguardian.com/fa.....-your-ward</a><br /></div> </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961031 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 03:53:27 +0000 rachylou 1961031@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Perhaps they want to dress pop stars...? </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961030 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 03:39:38 +0000 jussie 1961030@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I get that no one would want to actually wear Slimanes clothing..... but I’m going to set the cat among the pigeons and say aesthetically I quite like the look of it. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961027 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 03:30:00 +0000 cindysmith 1961027@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>There has been so much written about this; but this is the most thoughtful one I've read. Thanks for sharing it! </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961023 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 02:18:24 +0000 LaPed 1961023@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Yeah, I dunno, Slimane's stuff just seems a little... predictable. Like a parody of couture. I'm already seeing those gigantic white-on-black polka dots showing up in retail. Philo's designs managed to seem both fresh and wearable -- rare combination. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961016 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 01:39:10 +0000 Jaime 1961016@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>I miss Phoebe Philo's Celine, even though I could not afford it (even second hand!). I could read her shows for upcoming trends; for what we would all want in the near future. I attribute my love for v neck shoes to her, and that is just one example. Hedi Slimane's Celine is a completely other thing, and I am looking to others for aspirational style now. I don't really see the point of radically switching brand identity designer to designer, but I am not a customer in any case. Givenchy looked very good this year . </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961013 Wed, 03 Oct 2018 00:44:11 +0000 binkle 1961013@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>Thank you for sharing this. I read the rest of the article, and checked out the 2018 spring Celine show on Vogue.com, vs 2017 spring Celine. What a contrast!</p> <p>Leandra's clearly a bit shell-shocked by the stark contrast (literally) between Phoebe Philo's beloved (by those who can fit in it and can afford it) Celine of relaxed shapes and color, sophisticated and female, with Hedi Slimane's drug addicts. Why LVMH bosses made the change is a mystery.</p> <p>It has happened that a designer will be annointed to lead a label and is then quickly replaced - it may well happen here. Fashion is a for-profit business, and when Celine sales tank, I'd think the big bosses at LVMH will rethink it. Sales being relative of course. How much profit does a luxury brand like Celine even make and does LVMH really care in their grand scheme of things.</p> <p>The larger question of who is designing for who(m?) is a good one. There are a lot of designers out there, not everything trickles down to my purchasing level. I don't get to buy everything I want, and even if I can afford it, it's been designed for twigs (by female AND male designers). But does every designer have to design for every woman? No answers from me, I guess. </p> https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/designers-who-think-about-what-women-want#post-1961011 Tue, 02 Oct 2018 23:59:10 +0000 UmmLila (Lisa) 1961011@https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/ <p>So this is an interesting piece, even though all the designers in question are beyond normal women price points:</p> <p><strong>"During the womenswear seasons of <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.manrepeller.com/2018/09/paris-fashion-week-leandra-medine-what-is-fashion.html">fashion week</a>, it is always the public perception of what it means to be a woman that is most at stake.</strong>&nbsp;In previous seasons, it’s been easy to set this aside — think not about the macro implications of the power and tone and lifestyle connoted by a garment — in order to pursue, observe, criticize the minutiae of the hem on a dress, the sleeves on a sweater, the shape of a pair of pants. To have been able to set these implications aside, or to take them for granted because of designers who understood acutely enough how a woman wants to feel when she wears what she was does, was a privilege, not a right. What a bummer.…<br />"Since Hedi Slimane showed <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.manrepeller.com/2018/09/celine-paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019.html">his collection for Celine</a>, it has been impossible not to consider who is at the helm of the houses who are presenting shows and whether they are male or female and whether they and their bosses care about a garment’s highest calling: to make a woman feel like a better version of herself. Of course, this sense of “better” is going to vary greatly person to person, but held up against Phoebe Philo’s work, which existed to make wearers feel like they are perfect just as they are, it is tough if not disjointed to reconcile how a gaunt partygoer, poised to live fast and die young, as Slimane’s aesthetic has so long embodied, could carry the weight of tradition laid down by Philo…<br />"What is unfortunate is the oversight on the part of the senior level decision-makers at LVMH who have shown a blatant disregard for this moment in time when fashion has become style, style is more personal than ever and what we deem personal is also extraordinarily political. <p>What we wear has never felt more charged; I challenge the naysayers and nose-uppers to call it trivial."</p> <br /><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.manrepeller.com/2018/10/slimane-celine-gender-in-fashion-week.html">https://www.manrepeller.com/20.....-week.html</a> </p>