Brand Spotlight: Universal Standard

Universal Standard is a new-to-me brand that launched a couple of years ago. There are pop-up stores across the US, and online item availability from stores like Nordstrom. The size range covers US10 to 28, which is a very under serviced segment in the market. The aesthetic is modern and minimal. Solids and neutrals reign supreme. Silhouettes are simple, but not basic and boring. Fabrics, like their merino wools, are luxurious. 

I haven’t seen the product in person yet, but trust the good reviews of our stylish, savvy and well put together forum members. They rave about the brand. There are showrooms in NYC and Seattle if you’d like to fit the items on in person. 

The first thing that struck me is how relaxed BUT STRUCTURED the silhouettes are. Fluid, but generally quite tailored. Nothing hangs on the models like a shapeless tent or an avant-garde piece. Waistlines are hinted at or defined. Hems and welts are tapered back to the contour of the body. A body-con fit is not your friend if things cling in all “the wrong places,” and highlight the areas that you’re self-conscious about. That’s why a tailored fit, or a fluid style with lots of structure is your best bet if you want to look the most streamlined or “slim.” Accentuating the narrowest parts of the body without clinging to them generally creates a flattering effect across all body types, and makes you feel attractive. That’s exactly the fit that Universal Standard have chosen. Good job. 

Items also look comfortable and versatile. They can be remixed into all sorts of capsules, and with more dramatic pieces. If you’re not a neutral gal, remember that you can add colour into an outfit through footwear, bag, scarf, fingernail polish and eyewear. 

Thanks to Universal Standard for servicing a market that is a missed retail opportunity. I’m excited to see the items in person.

Ensemble: Olive & Black Lite

I’ve road-tested a number of outfits from my olive capsule and thoroughly enjoyed wearing them in the early Fall weather. The layers and lightweight tops worked perfectly in the mild, crisp and sunny weather. I’ve represented four of the outfits in the ensemble below, and shown the exact pieces from my wardrobe in this collection. 

None of the outfits were a simple dark olive combined with black because that would feel too dark and heavy for my sartorial preferences. The looks were softened with cream, tomato red, patterns or turquoise – hence I’ve called the vibe “Olive & Black Lite”.

Olive Avant-Garde Dress

I combined my new olive dress from COS with cream booties, a pile of pearls to match the booties and my hair, and a turquoise satchel. The cream and blue add crispness to the very voluminous olive dress. 

Olive, Black, Denim and Cream

I combined blue cropped straight leg jeans with my new olive pullover from COS, pearls, grey boots, a black moto, and small olive crossbody. The patterned guitar strap lightens the palette. I added the cream and gold scarf to lighten it further. The floral oxfords work well with this outfit too. 

The guitar strap makes quite the statement and pattern mixes well with most of my wardrobe because my patterns are classic, (polka dots, stripes, checks, florals and animal print). I ended up taking the scarf off before I left the house that night thinking I’d be too warm. I wish I’d taken it with me because it was a chilly evening. 

Olive, Black and Tomato Red

I semi-tucked a short-sleeved black cashmere pullover with new slim-fit dark olive boyfriend jeans and skinny gold belt. The jeans are FULL length for a change. I finished off the look with tomato red loafers and small red, chain-handle crossbody bag to liven things up. I had a dark blue denim and black jacket as a topper, but didn’t need it. 

Olive, Dots, Stripes and a Guitar Strap 

I combined dressier olive utility pants with a black and cream polka dot blouse, earthy black floral oxfords, and small olive crossbody bag with guitar strap. The back of the blouse is a bold black and cream stripe, so this outfit had four patterns, which to my eye created a harmonious whole. The patterns lightened up the darkness of the palette. Gold watch, pearl wedding ring, pearl bracelet and new brown specs were worn with every outfit.

Ensemble: Olive & Black Lite

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How to Layer Over Bell Sleeved Tops

Trendy maximal sleeve treatment like bell, lantern and fluted styles look interesting and fabulous, but are tricky to layer over with a topper. Sleeve-squashing and tailored topper sleeves are uncomfortable and crease the sleeves. Things are easy in Summer because we seldom need a topper. 

The maximal sleeve trend is relentless going into Autumn and Winter, which is when you’ll definitely need a topper of sorts. Here are fives ways to top exuberant sleeves. In all cases the toppers have sleeves that are sufficiently roomy to encase the volume of maximal sleeves, or they are sleeveless.

Wraps and Ponchos

Capes and Capelets

Cocoon Coats

Gilets and Vests

Gigantic Puffer Coats and Jackets

I have blouses, a shirt, pullovers, and dresses with bell and fluted sleeves. The exact items are represented in the collection below.

I wear the blouses and shirts in high Summer weather, so no topper required. I add a Summer scarf wrapped around my neck when I’m chilly and stay away from arctic air conditioning. The pullovers and dresses work best under my roomy cocoon coats and cape, although I have squashed them under denim jackets from time to time.

The denim jackets are only just manageable from a comfort point of view because the sleeves of the tops and dresses aren’t that voluminous, and the toppers have stretch. They did unfortunately crease my sleeves, which was annoying. These are the exact toppers that I wear over the pullovers and dresses.

Make sure you have the right toppers for maximal sleeves when temperatures drop. Or simply stay away from the trend and wear tailored sleeves under toppers instead.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Weekly Roundup: Items to Start Fall

Fall collections are hitting stores fast, and I like what I see. Here’s a roundup of items that caught my eye last week as I browsed with clients. Lots of traditional Autumn hues and far less grey. Some items come in several colours, so do check them out. 

You can see the items alongside my descriptions on the collection page.

The Expiry Date of a Highly Elusive Wardrobe Item

HEWIs, highly elusive wardrobe items, are items on our shopping list that take ages to find. Sometimes the specific thing we want simply doesn’t exist, and other times it isn’t available at an affordable price point. 

We keep HEWIs on our shopping list, and hope that with tenacity, patience and a bit of luck, we eventually find them. When we do find them, it’s brilliant and all is right in the world. We can finally put together the outfits we had in mind, evolve our style, and make the HEWI a wardrobe workhorse.

Or so we thought.

Things don’t necessarily work out that way. Sometimes, we outgrow the need for our HEWIs just as we find them. Annoying, but true. That’s because there are changes in the factors that affect our style

For example, your sartorial preferences shift over time. It’s only when you fit on and remix the HEWI into your wardrobe during an outfit creation session at home that you realize that you don’t fancy the vibe as much as you thought you would. Or the looks that you styled with the HEWI in your head don’t work in person. Quite the anticlimax. 

Your body type can also change, which might make the HEWI look less fab than you thought it would. Your lifestyle, climate and environment can change, which can make a HEWI inappropriate or useless once you find it. A HEWI can also be a trendy item that you are “over” once it pops up in stores. Or an item that feels dated-for-you when you finally track it down. 

All this to say that HEWIs have an expiry date, which can be difficult to gauge. If you catch that you no longer want or need a HEWI before you find it — so much the better. If not, be sure to evaluate your purchase carefully when you find something that has been on your shopping list for a long time. Before committing to it, make sure that it works as well for your wardrobe and style as you thought it would.