Question for those who sew...

Anna

I just bought a simple A-line skirt pattern with pockets, "New Look" brand. Has anyone used these patterns? I'm wondering if the measurements given for the sizes are accurate. My pattern has size 10 (with a 25" waist) to size 22 (with a 37" waist). Any experience would be appreciated! Thanks, all.

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11 years ago

Dressing

9 replies

Latest reply was from HeleenH

diane

Active Member

I have never used these patterns, but I was told they run "big". A-line skirts are so easy to alter! Burda and Vogue are the only patterns true to size, I was told that anyway. Get the pattern right and you can make a million skirts! Have fun!

11 years ago

cjh

(website)

Veteran

Use the size that corresponds to your waist measurement. And I would say the opposite, they run small, very small. For instance, I normally wear a sz. 8 skirt (and that is a more reliable number than any other garment, I've found), but would cut a size 16 in this pattern, because my waist is about 30 inches.

It is easier to alter the hips than the waist, it seems.

The most frustrating thing about patterns is when you cut it once, and there is a fit problem, you need to buy another pattern to have a different size.

Try a test run with some remnant fabric if you think this might be a pattern you will like to make several times.

11 years ago

DragonflyJane

Active Member

As a keen dressmaker, I'd recommend measuring yourself at the waist & hips for a skirt & then compare these measurements to those on the pattern. If you have larger hips, cut for your hip size - it's easy to bring the waist in but you can't make something bigger.

In my experience pattern sizes are not the same as shop sizes so always cut based on your own measurments. I'm a UK dress size 14 & usually cut at pattern size 18!

With a new pattern, I usually make it up in a cheap muslin first & then I can try it for fit & flattery before cutting into my nice fabric. You can then mark any adjustments onto your pattern pieces and cut it out exactly to fit. Have fun & don't forget to post your skirt when you've finished.

11 years ago

Jamie

Veteran

Avid sewer here, so ditto everything DragonflyJane has said. Measure yourself. Go with the hip measurement on the pattern. Verify by measuring the actual pattern pieces (seam line to seam line). Make a muslin and adjust the fit, if needed. Use the muslin pieces as your pattern pieces for your fashion fabric. Can't wait to see your new skirt!

11 years ago

Amy

(website)

Veteran

Yes, go by your hip size. If your waist is smaller/larger than what the pattern is drafted for, you can adjust that easily enough.

Unfortunately, fit issues can vary from pattern to pattern even within the same line. It's a good idea to make a test skirt in a cheap fabric (muslin).

Also, I'd suggest checking out reviews of this pattern on patternreview.com. You might discover some helpful advice there.

11 years ago

mrseccentric

(website)

Veteran

Anna, you've received great advice here. And congrats on jumping into sewing! i'm just re-emphasizing the wisdom of making a muslin first - you might want to try cutting the muslin's seam allowances 1"-1 1/2" wide at first so you have room to play with the fit.

I'd also do a web search on 'how to make an a-line skirt'. There's a crazy amount of great info out there on the web! Best of luck, steph

11 years ago

Anonymous

I concur. It seems sewing patterns didn't fall prey to the "vanity sizing" that has occurred over the past 20 years!

11 years ago

Gaylene

Veteran

Good idea to start with a simple pattern. Making a muslin is definitely the way to go when you are making a garment that requires extensive fitting fit to look good, but, in the case of a simple skirt like this one, I'd pick an inexpensive, fun fabric and use the following method. That way, if everything turns out OK, I'd actually get a skirt that I could wear after spending the time sewing it.

First, as mentioned above, cut for your hip size, but make your SIDE seam allowances more generous (maybe 1-1 1/2" instead of the standard 5/8"). Leave enough fabric so you can cut your waistband later.

Complete both the front piece with the pockets and the back piece with its zipper using pattern directions. Then, using longest stitch length on your machine, baste the side seams together. Try the skirt on and adjust the skirt to fit your body. Let out the side seam if the skirt feels too tight in the hip or waist (the beauty of the extra width in the side seam allowance) or use pins to take in the extra fabric if the skirt fits too loosely. Aim for a nice smooth fit in the waist and hip with no pulling or wrinkling. You can also alter the shape of the A-line if you find it flares out too much for your liking. Once the skirt fits the way you'd like, take it off and re-draw the side seam allowance to incorporate the changes you've make. Stitch the side seam and trim the side seam allowance.

Once you've adjusted the skirt to fit your hips, it's time to fit the waistband. To determine where to attach the waist band, tie a string around your waist over the skirt fabric, making it as tight or loose as you want. Adjust the skirt so it hangs evenly. Depending on your shape and the fabric, you may need to raise or lower certain areas on your waist so the skirt hangs nicely on your body. With a tailor's chalk or pencil, lightly mark where the string sits on the fabric. This is your where your waistband seam should sit. Compare this waistband measurement with the size of the waistband in your pattern; you may need to increase, or decrease, the length of the waistband pattern piece to fit your actual waist size.

Cut the waistband to fit your measurements and assemble it according to the pattern instructions. You'll probably need to re-mark the center front and side seam notches if you've added or decreased the length of the pattern waistband.

Try the skirt on, mark the hem, and finish it off. Chances are good that you'll have a perfectly fitted A-line skirt to wear this summer. And, the next time you use the pattern, you'll know what changes you need to fit your unique shape.

11 years ago

HeleenH

Veteran

You have already got great advice. CJH mentions that it is frustrating that if you cut the wrong size, you have to buy a new pattern. You can avoid this by tracing the pattern on tracing paper (you can combine two sizes while tracing).

11 years ago

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