I wanted to add that what I particularly liked about the Japanese menswear article is the focus on using the past in the present: surfer era, Ivy style, the wabi sabi nature of indigo that fades and retro dyes.
"“For example, modern dyes are high in durability, but old dyes fade as
time passes. This explains why clothes from the 1930-1960s are admired
as ‘vintage’ all over the world. However, people don’t find value in
clothes from the 1990s that are made with new dyes. It’s the visual
sense of history that attracts people, and I use this essence to produce
modern clothes.”"
For me, in contrast, I like to use thrifted clothing to interpret modern trends. The history that does attract me in vintage clothing is not the aging but the cut and drape and silhouette emphasis but I would prefer it to be a reference to how clothes were modern at that time. I like how the designer of surfer-inspired clothing has a completely modernized take on it. He may admire fading fabric but it doesn't look particularly salt-soaked and sun faded to me.