Continuing to Evaluate Button Down Shirts - YouLookFab Forum

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Continuing to Evaluate Button Down Shirts

Anonymous

With the Forum's help, I have been actively evaluating all of my button downs. I am at work and can't post pictures from this computer, but the link that shows my button downs and comments from the forum can be found at:

http://youlookfab.com/welookfa.....robe-count

Is it possible that button downs only really work well for women with flat chests? I really, really like the look of button downs in pictures. I wonder if my challenges are created by a larger chest?

Regardless of the above issue, I still like them a lot and am trying to make them work for me. Based on Forum comments, I am keeping numbers 1, 2, and 3. The fourth one, with the princess seams, may be donated this weekend (still deciding). I know Angie said it was ok, but so many others commented on the "dated look" that it is stuck in my head. I know I will wear it less than I should (and not because I am "saving" it). Lesson about "saving things" learned.

Finally, I used to wear button downs nearly every work day. I stopped wearing them about two-three years ago and only recently resumed. I feel button downs are important in my wardrobe because I feel more comfortable wearing them for meetings. So I don't want to give them up, I want to figure out how to make them work for me in 2016-2017.

If this necessitates starting over and buying new wardrobe of button downs, I am ok with that. But Angie commented twice that the Gap Shirt should be donated (picture number 5). That shirt was bought just last year so how can that one be dated?

Perhaps I have no clue what button downs in 2016-2017 should look like? All advice is welcome.

I should end this by saying my goal is to update my wardrobe of button downs. I want to wear them. I want to love them. I am tired of knits and tee shirts. I am focusing on whatever is ideal for 2016-2017 in very basic colors in cotton, silk, and linen.

Dressing

26 replies

Latest reply was from Angie

Tanya

Veteran

Sterling, have you considered blouses, instead of button-downs? Still woven, and much dressier then tees and knits you are tired of, but there are so much more possibilities there - colors, patterns, details, and lots of silk. Some of the blouses do button, like modern classic Equipment version, attaching some below. Since blouses are usually made of softer material that drape (very often silk that you love), they are typically less strictly tailored and should be thus easier to fit.

Equipment 'Slim Signature' Silk Shirt

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2

Equipment 'Major' Stripe Silk Shirt

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2

Equipment Kate Moss for Equipment 'Slim Signature' Leopard Print Silk Shirt with Tie

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1

El Cee

Veteran

Sterling -- I empathize with you over the button down issues. I am busty and hourglassy, but LOVE the look of a classic button down. I am still looking for my perfect shirt. I have had some limited success with Foxcroft brand. I keep seeing recommendations for "The Shirt by Rochelle Behrens" on various fashion blogs and may give that brand a try. Her shirts have a patented "no gape" button technology that has gotten some rave reviews from women with larger chests. Here is the link: http://the-shirt.com

Have you thought about custom tailoring? It might be worth it for you if button downs are a part of your preferred office "uniform". If you have an assortment of tops you absolutely LOVE, I bet you'd wear the heck out of them... making the cost-per-wear very reasonable.

El Cee

Veteran

Just saw Tanya's recommendation re: blouses. I second this thought. I have had great success with soft, blousy button downs from Loft and Express. But still haven't given up the search for the perfect "crisp" version.

anne

Veteran

Just saying. ..I am very small busted but I also don't think I look good in button downs. I can't fill them out.
I second Tanya's blouse recommendations.

Banoffi

Veteran

Like Anne, I don't think I look good in button down shirts either. I'm small busted but have large shoulders so that may play a part.

I saw an ad for The Shirt by Rochelle Behrens. The shirts are designed for women with larger chests. I haven't seen these in real life, however, nor read any reviews.

http://the-shirt.com/pages/new.....w-it-works

Liz

Veteran

I'd suggest you think of what kind of cut and proportions you're looking for in a shirt or blouse that buttons down the front. Examples: you have a bust, therefore, you'll need a cut that isn't straight (and maybe also darts or seaming) to get a good fit. Or, you'll need a drapy shirt like the ones Tanya linked to that will allow you to size to fit your bust, and then collapse back against your body instead of standing out in a stiff or boxy manner.
You're tall, therefore you'll need to think about length if you want to wear the shirt untucked. You're an hourglass (I think) therefore you'll need to consider the relative boxiness of the cut and how stiff / boxy you want to go.

If you want to wear the shirt untucked, you'll need to consider what will make an untucked shirt plus trousers into an actual outfit. Proportion will be very important. Or tuck and belt. Or add a topper.

If you want the shirt to be professional for meetings, then you'll want to think about the level of polish or dressiness you want. For example, that Gap shirt in #5 looks like a casual summer top to me, not a professional meeting shirt. (Perhaps the cut and fit is why Angie suggested letting it go?)

Joy

Veteran

I am eagerly awaiting Angie's thoughts on Fall trends, but have noticed lots of buttondown shirts and blouses in the NYTimes fashion section, sometimes with a bow detail.

AviaMariah

Veteran

Flat chested girl reporting. I too have been evaluating my buttons downs since I have accumulated quite a few over the last few years. What I'm finding is that I still enjoy wearing the ones that are roomy but don't like the ones that are very tailored. Part of this is the feeling of being restricted. But I also like the look of the roomier ones better and I think it's in part because it doesn't emphasize my flat chest. I also think the roomier ones give off a more relaxed vibe instead of business casual which is fitting into my needs better these days.

BrieN

Veteran

The only button downs I've ever thought flattered me were by Craig Taylor. He made a version of the Grace fit blouse with runching at the bust. Beautiful colors and lovely fabric.

Maneera

(website)

Veteran

I'm large chested and have not been wearing button downs for Atleast 2 years. Before that, I wore them ALOT. I am not very sure why I stopped loving them, but I think it may be because I find them restrictive. I've still kept 2-3 oversized shirts that I may try wearing in the fall.

I agree with Tanya. Somehow, pretty blouses feel more modern and current to me, though I still see tons of women wearing button downs to work around here.

If u love button downs and want to wear them in 2016-17, try a pretty shirt.....with some detailing and print, instead of a plain solid color, in a soft drapey fabric. Those may also fit better around the chest.

Greyscale

Veteran

I love button downs. I have enough of a chest / large ribcage that I also have trouble finding shirts that look the way I want. In my head I'll wear the perfect white button-down 'stolen from the boys' and look like a French movie star. In reality, they puff out around my middle. Still, I haven't given up. I have a few more dated looks, fitted shirts from Theory that look wonderful but aren't on trend (still useful though). I'm searching for some slightly looser shirts this season. I do own a lot more silk shirts than cotton, because they drape better, but they're not quite the same thing.

I thought some of the shirts in your last post looked really great, and it's a good look on you. #1 is just about perfect, and it looks great tucked in, which never seems to work for me! Don't give it up!

Anonymous

Tanya -- thank you so much for the suggestions. I use the term "button down" to refer to any top that has buttons (I may need to revise my definition). It is my dream to start collecting Equipment silk blouses (maybe one or two a year). I need to find the right one though. The one I ordered earlier this summer was too sheer for my purposes. I cannot tell you how many shirts/blouses/tee shirts I tried on this spring that were too sheer.

El Cee -- I doubt I will go the custom route. Mainly because finding a seamstress or tailor that I trust in my area would be challenging. I do love the patented "no gape" idea though. I will certainly be looking into that this weekend.

Liz -- Wow. You literally laid out a road map for me.

BrieN -- I'll look into Craig Tailor. I hadn't thought about ruching as a possible solution.

Anne, Banoffi, and AviaMariah -- I am probably wrong about what does or does not make a button down shirt look good on an individual. I was walking across the street this morning pondering why my button downs gaped and that was the only thing I could come up with. It could be any number of things really.

AviaMariah and Maneera -- After fully embracing the past few years of incredibly unrestrictive and comfortable clothing, I am ready for a little "fittedness" to creep back into my wardrobe (I never thought I would say that ). I am feeling really good in my fitted white button down. I feel clean and crisp.

And finally, Joy. I am seeing lots of button downs and blouses in the fashion pages as well. I too eagerly await Angie's comments. So the question is am I being influenced by my fashion magazines. No. This change stems from the fact that we have a new hire and she consistently wears button down shirts/blouses in either linen or silk. They fit her perfectly (small chest) and they are perfectly ironed. Her entire outfit (accessories, slacks) coordinate perfectly with the colors in the top. She looks professional, capable, and perfectly on-point. And ironed!!!! I am impressed as he!l. I decided I wanted her to be my "in real life" style aspiration. It should not be that hard to emulate. But it is......

Great suggestions. Very helpful.

Anonymous

Hi Greyscale. Thank you for the positive feedback. I will not give up. I will accept that it might take some time to find my rhythm though. Good luck in your search as well.

Anonymous

Elizabeth P kindly asked what my final decision was regarding my shirts. Here is a copy of my response from that thread:

Thank you for asking, Elizabeth. I donated numbers 5, 6, and 7. I tried to sew a snap onto number 8 to prevent gapping. I downgraded number 8 to wear around the house only.

I am keeping numbers 1, 2, and 4. I'll try wearing number 4 open like Tina suggested. It seems an obvious solution.

I really like numbers 1 and 2. I feel good wearing them. For some reason, I don't wear number 4. I always thought I was "saving it for good," but now I wonder if that is truly the case. I will experiment with number 4 and see what happens in the Fall. I won't feel bad if it ends up in the donate box.

I am at a loss about what to do with number 3. Right now, it has a place in my closet.

elpgal

Veteran

I love button-downs/camp shirts and wear them almost everyday. Silk for sure and I have them altered in the back or nipped in at the waist slightly. I also tolerate a less than optimal fit at the shoulder to size up in the bust. Some folk have luck with minimizer underpinnings but I am not a fan. I rely on fashion tape or safety pins (tiny black ones) to prevent gape.

My current crop is from Ann Taylor (quality varies with year), Vince and JCrew. I want to order from Everlane but am dissuaded by the length. I haven't found any cotton ones that fit well. The poly options at Express and Limited are fine, come in a range of colors but they need washing after each wear and the quality is moderate to poor (threads hanging, sometimes scratchy fabrics, weirdly long tags on roll-up sleeves).

On a trip to India, I asked a menswear tailor if he could make me a few button downs but no dice. I wish someone would make me custom button downs.

ETA: I agree with Greyscale about the fit on the first shirt. You wear them well.

Anonymous

Elpgal -- it is making really happy to hear others saying they love button downs as well. I am currently evaluating every single one in my wardrobe. I might have a very small set when this is all done, but I will be really happy with what is left. I'll know what to shop for in the future.

Tanya

Veteran

Glad you are making progress, Sterling. Technically, a button-down is name for shirt only, usually made of stiff cotton. If it is made of silk, or other softer material, then it is a blouse, even if it buttons down the middle. It can be confusing sometimes I think you might have much better luck with these, and I don't have to go equipment immediately. The silk versions are often available from more mainstream stores, such as BR and AT.

Anonymous

Thanks for the clarification, Tanya. I will be researching my options once I figure out what I am looking for. I always start by collecting finds and pins. In time a pattern emerges.

gradfashionista

(website)

Veteran

Equipment blouses, particular the Signature ones, are extremely voluminous and can accommodate a large bust. You may want to have a tailor add one or two snaps in the middle if you're worried about exposure. You might want to check out "The Shirt," which is a company that makes blouses with hidden buttons in the chest that are very effective at closing the gaps.

Anonymous

I've decided to buy one button down from the "The Shirt" to try it out. I select a colored one so that I don't have fret about sheerness. Thanks Grandfashionista and El Cee and Banoffi.

I find it odd that the sleeveless and short sleeved versions are more expensive than the long sleeve versions.

Alexandra

(website)

Veteran

Technically, button-down refers to the collar - the kind that has tiny buttonholes at the points to "button it down" so the collar doesn't flap up. I think what you're wanting is a button-front shirt.

Yes, they look better on flat-chested women because the style comes from menswear. They don't look good on all of them because between the shirt detailing and fabric, it's a lot of structure and not everyone can pull that off. To make them work on a larger bust, you need bust darts (or equivalent). Garments made for a flat chest can be the same width and length front and back. Those made for a woman's shape usually need more length and width in the front to cover the bust. This is where the bust dart comes in - it keeps the extra length at center front where it's needed and takes it out at the side seam where it's neither needed nor desirable. The larger the bust, the more length difference between front and back, and the deeper the bust dart.

Gaping comes from not enough front width. This is typical of RTW where shirts are expected to fold flat. The moment you add bust darts, you've made the garment 3D and it won't fold flat anymore. Except for those with really wide backs, most women need more room in the front than the back. A custom-made shirt would account for this. It would also have a button at the bust level because that's the most likely point of stress.

All this from a seamstress point of view. I hope it helps at least some.

Anonymous

Very interesting, Alexandra.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Hmm. I'm busty but button downs tend to look good on me IF they fit properly without gaping. My issue is that they are usually a bit too classic for my style. I've kept a few old ones because they fit so well and the colors are good on me, even though I haven't worn them in years.

I love soft blouses like the ones Diana posted, and I have a few of those, but even those don't get worn as much as they should because they are just a smidge too dressy for my life. Again, I hang onto them even though I wish they got more wear. Honestly, I find knits and tees easier because they tend to be sturdier and easier to care for (easy laundering, no ironing, skim the body and allow for a little variance in size/weight). I'll be interested to see how you end up with your shirt collection, and I'll need to do some inventory myself!

DonnaF

Veteran

I'm a fan of button front SHIRTS but not blouses. I have a couple of Vince Camuto silk shirts; they are the cheaper cousin to the Equipments ones with a very similar style/vibe. I find that the softer, more feminine vibe of blouses and silk shirts are a bit at odds with my preferred style even if they are a bit easier to fit. Blouse sleeves don't scrunch, and I'm a big time scruncher.

Shirts are hard to fit. Period. I don't have a big bust, but I have a FULL (large cup size) bust if that makes sense. This means that gaping can sometimes be a problem. I also have short arms, but if I buy at Nordstrom, getting sleeves shortened is cheap and they do a good job.

I'm still learning when it comes to optimum flattering fits. I have a short neck and have learned the hard way to make sure the neckband is narrow, i.e. doesn't have two buttons, and that the collar is slightly lowered in front which I can usually tell from photos.

Foxcroft and the one shirt I bought from J.Jill fit me well through the shoulders, neckline, and chest which IMHO are the most important parts. So do the shirts below. But Foxcroft, the J.Jill, and the BR workshirt tend to be a little to big at the waist and hips, but not enough to make them actually boxy on me, but enough to avoid those brands in the future, especially since Foxcroft shirts tend to make me look matronly for whatever reason.

They are both Nordstrom in-house brands, but Halogen shirts tend to fit me better than Caslon ones; I think I am between sizes in Caslon.

You will see that none of my button front shirts below is dressy. The Topshop kitty shirt is more soft than crisp. I have a couple of crisp no-iron shirts that I don't wear very often because they are a bit hot and more confining than the casual shirts.

Scotch Plaid Shirt

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16

Banana Republic

Essential Denim Shirt

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Halogen Tencel® Denim Shirt (Regular & Petite)

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Topshop Cat Embroidered Pocket Shirt (Petite)

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Foxcroft Linen Shirt (Regular & Petite)

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Anonymous

Wow, DonnaF. Your post was so helpful. You certainly know your style and your body. I can only hope to one day understand what suits me the best.

Hi Janet. I do own several silk blouses (which are the soft blouses, you mention, right)? I'm not sure why I don't reach for them often. I just don't. This might be one of those challenges, "why aren't I wearing it and what can I do to wear it more often?"

You know what I am learning from all these posts? Shirts are hard for a multitude of reasons. I am not going to beat myself up if I have some failures along the way to learning about my style/body.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Sterling, there is a difference between a blouse and shirt - as Tanya suggests. A "button down" is a stiff masculine shirt on YLF (I take the term further than Alexandra's explanation). A blouse is MUCH softer - although there might be buttons going down the front.

To answer your question: Actually, I have clients with larger busts that do very well with stiff buttons downs. I was JUST with a client today who rocked a BR button down with a larger bust. There are also forum members like Janet and Inge who have a larger bust, and look GREAT in stiff button downs. It's all in the fit - and a narrowing at the waist is good.

Generally though, blouses are more forgiving on a larger bust.