Ask Angie:How do you style an arty jacket so it doesn't look so "Christmas sweater y" - YouLookFab Forum

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Ask Angie:How do you style an arty jacket so it doesn't look so "Christmas sweater y"

Adrienne

Hi Angie,
I am wondering what to do with my 'Arty vest and Jacket'. There is a group of us sewers that are making jackets and sweatshirts into something else by deconstructing and reconstructing. Some of them utilize quilting techniques and applique techniques. I want to elevate this art form so it doesn't look so "Christmas Sweater",if you know what I mean. How does one elevate and item so that it passes from art and crafty to chic? OR am I asking or trying to do something impossible. I do understand that a mom jean will never be cool but always a mom jean. I hope you know what I am talking about
I would like to figure out how to make an "art jacket" that I can wear but doesnt scream ugly homemade old lady coat. Any guidelines for making something like this. I figure your designer's eye might have some great observations. You know when you get caught up in one of these projects you sort of looks perspective. Any help would be great.

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Dressing

18 replies

Latest reply was from TraceyLiz65

Jules

Veteran

Have you browsed on etsy? I find there are often designers doing more modern things with traditional crafts. Looking for unique, custom purses and home decor items on etsy got me interested in certain designers' fabric collections, such as Amy Butler and Joel Dewberry. Then I even found myself stalking those fabrics in crafting circles blogs, to see what people had done with them.

*Please note I am not crafty at all and this was just an internet wormhole I went down while doing some home decor....

approprio

(website)

Veteran

My approach to these pieces (and I have a few!) is to style them with very modern and avant-garde pieces. I think it was Kellygirl who coined a good descriptor for it: sporty modern boho.

My favourite designers for inspiration with this are Bernhard Wilhelm, Dries van Noten, Kansai Yamamoto and Koos van den Akker. Also worth a look is Isabel Marant, although she's a little less exuberant. All do great things with these kinds of mixed media pieces. And when in doubt, think Iris Apfel.

unfrumped

Veteran

I think the graphic fabrics and designs are "safer" (!) to avoid the crafts-store look. Small prints and quilting type patterns can look more outdated-country. I don't think that's wrong, it just depends on what you want to end up with. Also plain cotton fabrics, again, more evocative of aprons and quilts, and maybe too much symmetry. The quilted jacket on the model may work on her because it may read retro or ironic, but would be very hard for me to pull off that look !

This is quite an interesting post because I have huge regard for anyone who actually makes clothing and accessories--my mother designed her own dresses, sewed fabulous items for me, created purses from fabrics and structural items. But, the question is how to create something that gives you the look you want. It's really the same thing as wardrobe updating--how to use the same skills (sewing and crafting) with updated fabrics, patterns.

Adrienne

Thank you Jules and approprio your suggestions are spot on. I will def look at all you suggested. I am now wondering if my question should have been about levels of refinement in the arty jacket. Anyways lots of food for thought.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

(Your Corgi is adorable).

Adrienne, are you looking to restyle and reshape the one you have on in #2, or are you looking to make some of the other styles posted.

And actually, "Mom Jeans" were very fashionable as upscale Normcore last year.

cjh

(website)

Veteran

Adrienne, it seems the prescription would be to use more luxe fabrics, such as brocades, silk shantung, fine sweater knits, even chintz or other drapery or home decorating fabrics, to get away from the quilt-as-clothes feel. Fabrics that have a lot of body, texture, shine, rich colors - all interesting looks. I make quilts and love the quilting cottons on the market now - beautiful and many quality choices, but when making garments, totes, bags or other accessories, the quilting fabrics just don't quite give the look I want. And especially avoid the small novelty prints, as unfrumped suggests above.

Liz

Veteran

I think the key would be to start from your style -- "here's the type of clothing I want to wear, and oh look, I made it myself" -- rather than starting from the art project -- "here's a fun craft I want to do, and oh look, it's wearable." Then use your craft technique within the narrower range of the clothing you are drawn to.

Adrienne

what I want to do I think is make my own art jackets and get away from the quilt calico prints. I think that cjh hit it on the nail that I need to use more upscale or refined fabric. Angy I think that myself in that vest is a fitting issue. I think that it is out of proportion for my frame. I just made it up to practice my techniques. I guess what I want to know is how would I style it if I made it? Would I wear it with dress slacks or only jeans. I guess for me it would have to be over a top and bottom that matched in maybe a neutral that was in the print. I just dont want to make something and it end up looking frumpy because I cant figure out how to style it on my frame.I hope this makes sense.
(Oh yes my Corgi keeps her eye on me I sometimes call her my Corginator)

Joy

Veteran

I hope that Firecracker chimes in as she makes those fabulous mixed print tees that look designer. I love the examples 3,5 & 6, but think 4 would have to be worn by a young person to look purposeful. The fabrics in 1/2 do not look promising for an arty rather than arts/crafts piece, but maybe just a touch of those with something mixed media like a tweed, lace and/or satin might work, and unexpected colors like purple and citron.
I wonder if you could use it to make a bag.

shiny

Veteran

This is one of the reasons I quit sewing, long ago! Yes, I used to sew. I even worked in a fabric store, to feed my sewing addiction.

The problem is that the mainstream fabric chains have very limited selection for fabrics. When I started sewing we had a local non-chain store that had so much more variety and higher-end, unique fabrics to choose from. That store went out of business because the big chains came in. The big chains are cheaper but you get what you pay for - kitchsy fabrics.

It's been a long time since I sewed but I believe you can order fabrics online now, which opens up possibilities, but is not cheap. My mom also relies on thrift stores to find interesting fabric, which is another route. What my mom does is experiments with the cheaper fabrics to perfect the shape & style she wants in a garment, then she feels more confident about investing in higher end, more refined fabrics to upgrade the look.

Then sometimes the fabric finds you. If I found fabric as in #7, which is amazing!, I'd first make the garment in something cheap like muslin or whatever I had lying around, before cutting the more expensive fabric.

unfrumped

Veteran

What liz said--great observation. I am in awe of its usefulness.

Try to identify your style and the garments with which you identify and work from there. Sure, it would be a problem for me if I started with, "highly structured leather moto jacket" and my sewing skills are a the level of making envelope pillow cases, so I'd have to look at the simpler forms of things my style, like a drapey T-top that is just a front and back sewn together.

Need a shout out to Firecracker! She is expert at making things that are highly wearable and part of her style, and also teaching others. And also look at her WIW's and creations.

And aha, this is a fabulous post for another reason, because one of my "one day" hobbies would be to sew and/or knit, for me and maybe for grand's, yet I know I would have to start very simple and yet hope not to produce the garment that's looking for a purpose.

Gaylene

Veteran

My feelings, much like Liz's , is to approach your project using the lens of a clothing designer rather than as a crafting project. In my experience my best sewing "experiments" have happened when I played around with the possibilities inherent in fabric, shape, and proportion. My sketches weren't much to look at, but they helped me figure out where I wanted the patterns, seams, folds and drapes, vertical and horizontal lines, and colors to fall on MY body. Once I had a vision of where I wanted to go, then I looked for a base pattern (or, more often, often two or three) that could be combined and adjusted to give me the approximate shape and proportions I wanted. I always started by making a muslin, using fabric(s) of similar weight to figure out the details of fit and shape. My muslin then became my pattern for my final product.

It takes time and effort to work through these preliminary steps, but it was also fun and interesting. My first project was a rather simple shift-style dress which turned out to be a real workhorse. My second project was a quilted vest/jacket combo with removeable sleeves--wearable, but not much else. But my third project was an amazing bomber-style tweed jacket with leather accents that I absolutely loved--a mixed media jacket before they became all the rage. That sucker stayed in my closet for over a decade!

My advice for creating a wearable "art" jacket would be to sketch out something in a shape that you know would likely flatter your figure and you could see yourself grabbing from your closet when you were going out the door. Concentrate on wearability, but also be imaginative. Then figure out the fabric and construction details that you need to turn your ideas into an actual piece of clothing.

ETA: By the way, all three of my experiments were from re-cycled garments and fabric. My shift dress was from a long, border print skirt my mother rarely wore, my quilted vest-jacket was from a coverlet (shades of Scarlett O'Hara!), and my tweed bomber was from two men's garments--a Harris tweed overcoat and a leather jacket.

Sal

Veteran

Definitely check out some of the pieces Firecracker has made, she has a modern eye and has some cleverly crafted jackets and skirts in particular.

In terms of what to wear with an arty jacket, I think quite simple pieces, either draped black trousers or simple jeans, a clean tee or sweater, and plain boots or loafers. I love bold pieces but mostly keep the supporting pieces quite plain.

I admire home crafted items very much, and the love that goes into these pieces.

rachylou

Veteran

Stealth corgi!

If the vest in #1 & 2 is what you're looking to style... I'd say: moto boots

Adrienne

Wow these are great ideas. I do know my style but in order to tell you it would take two paragraphs. In other words I am all over the place because I like so many different things. The post about not being able to find good local sources of fabric is so true. I know the fabric stores that are the big chains usually sell crap. I do buy there but those are usually my practice garments. Now that I have more time I have really gotten back into sewing and want to make myself some really upscale pieces. I have the skillset I just need to put it all together. I have been working on some fitting issues that I in particular have but am almost there making lots of muslins. Since I mostly wear smart casual clothing the third piece is usually my star of my outfit. I will def look at Firecracker's post. I am very grateful for all of the comments because your "eyes" help me to see what I am missing. Thanks for all of the comments.

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

Adrienne, this is a great question and something I think about, too. I agree wholeheartedly with what unfrumped, cjh, and Liz say, and I'm pretty sure I couldn't have articulated it myself!

I sew a lot of clothes for myself. I consider myself a garment sewer, first and foremost. (And within the category of "garment sewer," I am about fast and easy, modern and sometimes a little avant garde or arty. I rarely venture into tailored, classic looks or techniques. Sometimes, but not very often!) I have not gotten into quilting and rarely done crafty sewing techniques like applique, pintucking, etc. However, . . . I work in a sewing store, and part of my job is to teach machine embroidery and all kinds of other decorative techniques that one can do with a machine. I love the look of much of the embroidery, applique, felting, and other fun stuff, and would like to work it into some of my garments--without looking like, well, let's just say, without compromising my usual style, the style that feels like "me." I think of the difference you're describing as aspiring to an arty or creative look rather than a crafty one.

Often I finish making something, and I realize: It is something I would not buy if I had tried it on in a store. In that case, usually I will wear it once, just for good measure, and then add it to my "sewing samples," as opposed to my actual working wardrobe!

Adrienne

So true Firecracker. Thanks for posting. I love your style estetic and some of the things you have made are very drool worthy. Yes if I make something then realize I would never have bought that for myself for whatever reason usually the style does not flatter my body. Then I think about which person can I give it away to that would look good in it or otherwise it goes to Goodwill. Lesson learned. I like involved projects.
Most of the time I can usually find what I want in the stores for cheaper and out of better fabric than I can buy locally. I belong to ASG (American Sewing Guild) too great organization. I think that you are correct I want my pieces to look arty not crafty and material selection will probably change this. Thanks for all of the suggestions and posts on this topic it really helps to have input.

TraceyLiz65

(website)

Veteran

I think starting with a column of color with the top and bottom being the same would allow this to stand out more. I also would try wearing it with a belt and make sure the shoes were very modern.