Blokes, its time to move on from pleated khaki’s or chinos. This is a dated look. So much so that Banana Republic has eliminated pleated styles completely. Most department stores continue to stock pleated chinos because they sell to gents who are none the wiser.

Opt for flat front chinos instead. They’re a lot more flattering and will work for every age and body type.

• Dress them up smart casually with a tucked button down shirt + undergarment T + dressy shoes + matching belt
• Dress them down casually with an un-tucked T or polo shirt + fashion sneakers.

Flat front chinos are classic and preppy. I wouldn’t call them funky, trendy or sleek, but they’re a pretty decent smart casual look that’s often appropriate in a conservative work setting if dressy jeans are not permitted.

Pleated chinos are passé.

Flat front chinos are current and flattering.

The Seattle P.I. recently had some interesting things to say about Men’s fashion for 2008. The article pointed out that “polished and trim replaces distressed and grungy” as the look for Menswear now and in the future. Gents silhouettes are getting narrower, sleeker, and more streamlined. This is music to my ears. I like a smarter bloke who puts aside his sloppy T-shirt and baggy denims and replaces them with a structured button-down shirt and slick pair of jeans.

I fully support casual and comfortable men’s attire, but T-shirt privileges have been abused. It’s become too easy for men in their mid 30’s and older to opt for simple T-shirts and nothing else. Layering sleek, quality T’s underneath knitwear and jackets is different because this look has its funky and fashionable place and you’re adding structure and definition to the look. But wearing a run of the mill basic printed or plain T on its own as an everyday dress code leaves a lot to be desired. It’s hard for men to look good in a slim-fitting T-shirt without an ultra slim or athletic physique, and oversized styles look like tents. There are countless more stylish options when it comes to dressing casually when you’re not a teenager or student.

I’ll admit that I am not a cotton cru neck T-shirt fan and I therefore welcome what Ari Hoffman CEO of Gant & Co has to say:

“From our point of view, we’re going through a period of change from distressed, grungier looks toward clean looks, polished looks. It’s crisper — we definitely see that as an important direction.”

I say bring on dressier looks for men and demote basic T-shirts to lounging, camping and home improvement work. We too want our blokes to clean up and look fab.

Some holiday events aren’t formal enough for a suit and tie, but smart casual won’t do either. The answer is something in between, where a fancy form of business casual never fails. Here’s what you need:

• Dress pants in wool blends are best. Stick to flat fronted styles with straight legs (these are generally most flattering). Stay away from casual khakis and cotton rich fabrications because it’s inappropriate to wear this look in Winter.
• Dress shirts should be fairly form fitting and preferably a little shiny. This way your look is a step up from everyday office wear. Wear them tucked into pants with an undergarment-T and dressy belt that matches your shoes. The informal untucked shirt look is not suitable in this setting.
• Smart shoes in high shine leathers are ideal. Keep them the same colour or darker than the pants and wear dress socks that match.
• Blazers are an optional extra, but a chic finish to the look. Plain or pinstriped wool , cashmere or velvet fabrications are great and remember that you can comfortably pair this look with jeans for smart casual occasions. Multi-purpose pieces in our wardrobes are fab.

Plain shirts and micro-geometric patterned shirts are dressier options than broad stripes, and darker colours both for shirts and dress pant look a little swankier than lighter hues. But a pair of black dress pants and white shirt remains a perfect semi formal combination, especially on a darker skin tone.

Suits and tuxes are inappropriate for casual holiday parties at home or at informal restaurants (unless there is a dress code stated on the invitation). Relaxed holiday gatherings are usually smart casual and this calls for a toned down, yet appropriate, holiday look.

Putting together smart casual attire for gents is easy once you have the components:

• Jeans – A perfectly fitting fab pair of quality dark wash jeans will take a bloke almost anywhere. Learning to dress smart denim up or down contributes significantly to one’s personal style, so it’s worth investing in a splendid pair. Make sure that the jeans aren’t too short (high water pants shorten the leg).
• Shirt – Finding a great shirt is not easy because shirt fits and lengths are inconsistent. A man’s shirt has to fit properly in order for him to look chic (men generally wear smarter shirts at least a size too big). A dressy shirt looks classy when it’s tailored but not too snug, so alter if you need to. And remember to do “the sit test” (a shirt should not pull open at the tummy when sitting). It’s acceptable and hip to leave smart shirts “untucked”, but they need to be short enough to look chic. An untucked shirt that’s too long and big looks sloppy.
• Shoes and belt – There is no limit on the dressiness of the shoe. Both lace-up and pull–on will work. Stay away from clumpy peds with thick rubber soles that are unrefined. Wear a matching belt and finish off the look with dark dressy socks.
• Blazer – This is an optional but handsome cherry on top. Think boarding school pinstripe blazers in grey, ink or black wool blends and make sure that the fit is perfect both in length and width. The shoulders should not drop and the button should close. Ask for professional assistance if you’re unsure.

A tailored finely knitted polo neck (turtle neck) is a great alternative to a shirt when it’s cold. This is the masculine version of the flop-proof outfit and will serve men well for almost any smart casual occasion.

The untucked shirts on these models are at the correct length. An undergarment T-shirt worn under a button down shirt is always a good idea.

Veteran American fashion designer Ralph Lauren brought out a few interesting Holiday looks for gents this season. Not quite my preconceived idea of the male American tradition, but a novel and unique look all the same. In fact, I can appreciate the retro 50’s trend with a Scandinavian twist. To my surprise, the models seem to get away with the look. On some fashion level these Holiday ensembles are ultra funky, preppy and tastefully humorous. Does anyone else share my view?

Patent is everywhere and it’s the third season in a row. From handbags to shoes, wallets to belts and jackets to jewelry, there’s no getting away from major gloss and shine this season. I like patent best when it’s cracked, distressed and textured. It’s the newer and edgier version of high shine at the moment and I love it’s urban appeal.

The trend is taken to new heights this Autumn with entire garments made of patent. Less extreme, but equally eye catching, are skirts, pants and coats that glisten graphically with patent trim. It seems that high shine has gone from fashion statement to fashion basic in less than 18 months. It’s quite the look in men’s and children’s shoes as well.

Patent remains one of the biggest trends around and I’d be surprised to see it diminish next year. How do you feel about the shine?

Fashion forward patent and cracked patent men’s shoes.

Tall and slim gents can face a challenge with jeans. Mainstream straight-leg or boot-cut denim styles are often too baggy on the leg and bottom, too roomy at the waist, and short in the length. Banana Republic have come out with a range of Euro-cut slim fit jeans that look fantastic on this male body type. The range starts at a 29W and goes as long as a 36L. They’re 100% cotton, lovely quality and cost $98.

Levis 527’s will also do the trick. They start at a 28W but only go as long as a 34L. They’re also 100% cotton, but cost half the price at $48. My friend Laurel found that the Levis worked perfectly for her tall and slender hubby and I thank her for this great info. It’s super that more and more options become available to us each season.

Men’s shirting is not created equally. I can bring home six size mediums for my husband and they’ll all fit differently. Then, when you think that you’ve found a brand of shirting that fits, the retailer changes their size specifications overnight. This happens all over the world and is immensely frustrating. But things have improved over the last few years with a greater proportion of men’s shirting slotting into one of two fits and being labeled accordingly:

• “Slim fit” which runs narrower across the shoulder and torso area and is ideal for leaner blokes.
• “True Fit” which is regular in size and best for boys who are a dash more cuddly around the middle.

A sizeable portion of men’s shirting will keep you guessing. If a shirt’s fit isn’t labeled, you can usually assume that it’s regular fitting. Yet, swanky designer wear is seldom fit-labeled and it’s almost always narrow-fitting.

After lots of shopping, fitting and client testing I have found that different brands cater best to different fits as follows:

• Ultra-slim fits: Zara, Kenneth Cole and most designer wear
• Slim fits: Hugo Boss, Banana Republic “slim fit”, Lucky, INC., Ben Sherman, Calvin Klein, Faconable “slim fit”, French Connection, Mexx, Quick Silver
• True fits: Banana Republic, Oakley, Marc Ecko, DKNY, Faconable, Esprit, Next, Liz Claiborne
• Roomy fits: Timberland, Perry Ellis, Nautica, Polo, Gap
• Extra-roomy fits: Tommy Bahama, Eddie Bauer, Land’s End

I hope that this info stays relevant for at least a couple of seasons. Expect an update once retailers change their shirt-fit specifications yet again.

Shirts by Kenneth Cole (ultra-slim fit), Robert Graham (slim fit) and Banana Republic (true fit).

This season, I’ve enjoyed the ultra-affordable creations of New York graffiti artist turned fashion designer Marc Ecko. His range of men’s clothing is geared toward the city slick, young (or young at heart) urban man. I’ve been particularly impressed with the detailing of Marc Ecko’s shirt collection. Cuff and hem embroideries, centre front twill tape features, interesting patterns, funky collar linings and diagonally-striped piping make for an avant-guard and smart casual button-down shirt option. Fits are regular (not too slim) and prices are between $39 and $69. They’re not quite Hugo Boss quality, but then you’re not paying $175 for a shirt. Marc Ecko shirts have made those by  Banana Republic, Calvin Klein and Kenneth Cole look boring. I can’t wait to see what he’s got in store for our lads this Autumn.

Marc Ecko shirts are better in the flesh because the pictures don’t do the detailing justice, so be sure to have a look at his range the next time you’re in Macy’s.

Bodywarmers (or vests) are not just a fashion statement for ladies this season. Their sporty and urban appeal makes them a stylish denim jacket alternative for men. Their breezy sleeveless styling offers a practical solution for gents who tend to get warm easily.

There are plenty of styles and fabrications to choose from. For the best look, stick to styles that are:

• Snug – wearing this item roomy is unflattering
• Loosely quilted – thick piles of down will make you look bigger then you are
• Not fleece – fleece is good for sport and outdoor activity, but not for everyday casual dressing

They are particularly fun in colours like red and orange.

Bodywarmers look best on blokes when they are layered over knits such as T’s, sweaters, pullovers, casual cardigans and turtle necks. They don’t look good over collared shirts. This often reversible layering outerwear item is a perfect addition to the modern man’s wardrobe.

Men’s bodywarmers from Gap, J. Crew and Macy’s.