Sometimes belted cardigans, blouses, tunics and coats can look gorgeous on the hanger, but odd when you try them on. This is often a case of incorrect belt loop positioning. Even if a garment is the right size and fit, belt loops that are positioned either too high or too low tend to look unflattering. Belted styles need to tie at the smallest part of your natural waist (unless they are specifically designed to fall low on your hips or high under the bust).

But don’t let the incorrect belt loop positioning of a garment put you off before you’ve tried the following:

• Take the belt out of it’s loops and re-position it correctly on your waist. If the garment looks flattering after this adjustment, you can either alter the belt loops, or cut them off and tie the belt without threading it through belt loops.
• Try the garment without the belt. Tailored garments don’t always need belts to give them shape, so it’s worth a try just to make sure.

I have seen people trying to make the most of unflattering belted styles by tying the knot loosely at the back (like a back tie). This is not a good look, especially when the garment is double breasted. If a belted style still doesn’t work after repositioning, don’t buy it.

Left: belts are lower then natural waist, which is not what the style intended.
Right: belts are positioned correctly at the smallest part of the model’s waist.

Closets that I review often have a few items of unflattering and shapeless pieces of knitwear lurking in amongst the cherries. While some boxy knitwear pieces are beyond redemption, others can be transformed with the addition of a waist-cinching belt. Even for the small minority of people that can make boxy knitwear work for them, the belt creates a different look with the same piece of knitwear, effectively increasing its ROI.

This quick and inexpensive style tip is not going to work with chunky knits, which fail to look streamlined no matter what you do to them. I have also found that the look doesn’t work with every body and seems to be more effective as you get closer to the hourglass shape (for fuller figures too). But nothing ventured nothing gained, so give it a try if you have the items or are prepared to invest in a belt. Freshening up a boring piece of knitwear in this way can work wonders for your style and your pocket.

Eileen Fisher is well known for her expensive and impeccably made boxy knitwear. Most of us need a belt like the one on the left to make it flattering.

Bridging pieces allow you to refresh your wardrobe and increase the ROI of items you already own (because they “bridge” a gap in your closet). One effective bridging piece is a knitted top in a neutral or fashion colour. Renew your look fashionably and cost effectively by mixing a new knitted top with an existing jacket and pair of business casual slacks (or jeans).

Banana Republic took me by surprise last week. They have the best selection of bridging knitted tops at the moment. The choice of neckline (high or low), fabric composition (wool or cotton-rich), colour (basic or bright), style (classic or funky), length (short and long) and price point (affordable or cashmere) is impressive. There is something for everyone. Their fine knit gauges make these knitted tops doubly versatile because they suit both casual and business casual environments.

Get to Banana Republic soon if bridging pieces are on your shopping list. The stock is new and seems to be moving quickly.

A selection of assorted knitted tops from Banana Republic. Perfect for work and for weekends, dressed up or down.

Boots are magical. As long as they’re comfortable, I adore them in any size or form. Add the right pair of boots to an outfit and your style quotient doubles. Your wardrobe should therefore include at least a few pairs of versatile boots (unless you live in a year round tropical climate).

This season boasts a whole slew of interesting ankle boot styles that can be adapted to both classic and daring looks:

• Slouchy flat ankle boots are the latest look and in keeping with the retro 80’s revival fad. They work best tucked into skinny or straight leg jeans and were all the rage on the streets of London.
• Cuffed styles are another 80’s inspired trend and great tucked into jeans (without the legwarmers this time around).
• Tapered ankle boots are versatile, smart and sleek with pants or jeans – either skinny, boot cut or wide-legged.
• Wedged versions are streamlined and modern.
• Booties were fringe statements last season but completely mainstream now. It’s the boot with the least coverage and therefore ideal for warmer weather. They are particularly comfortable with elastic inserts at the ankle.

Ankle boots with skirts and dresses is an ultra fashion forward look, but not one that everyone can pull off. It’s not easy getting the shape of an ankle boot to work with the shape of your legs and the silhouette of the skirt. You’ll also need to think about the right type of hose to wear with this look. It is still much easier to pop a pair of fabulous knee-high boots underneath a skirt. Stay tuned for long boots tomorrow.

If you like the trapeze jacket look, but you’re battling to find a shape that’s flattering, you might find these guidelines helpful:

• Length – it’s extremely important to get the length of this jacket right. The style is best when it grazes your hipbone. Going shorter can also work, but going longer can be tricky unless you have the body type (hour-glass, inverted-triangle or rectangle). If this style hits you on the wrong part of your thighs, it’s going to look dumpy. If you’re short waisted, try the petites department even if you don’t usually shop there.
• Tailoring – swing jackets have to fit snugly on the shoulders. You’ll end up with a sloppy shoulder if they don’t. Strong shoulder lines are essential for a flattering A-line silhouette.
• Sleeve width – opt for a sleeve that’s three quarter length and not as voluminous. This will add structure to your frame.
• Slightly swing – choose a style that swings out subtly and is not as wide at the torso.
• Keep it plain – select a fairly streamlined and basic version instead of a style that’s yoked, gathered and printed.

The trapeze jacket is not the best style for women with large bust lines. Well endowed woman still look best when they maximize the shape of their waistlines. I have been able to make A-line jackets work for this body type if I adhere to the guidelines above and keep the style unbuttoned to emphasize a long vertical line. Busty ladies can also opt for trapeze styles with V or scooped necklines (Icy hit the nail on the head with her suggestion yesterday).

All three of these Trapeze jacket styles are hipbone-grazing or shorter, streamlined and tailored. I can personally vouch for the yellow style on the left, which I own and is particularly flattering.

Stylists and image consultants often swear by the fact that you’ll lengthen your legs by wearing the same colour shoes and legwear. While I agree with this style tip, as a strict rule it can get boring, especially if your daily dress is business casual. Contrasting the colour of your footwear with your pants or jeans is striking and makes an outfit pop.

I believe that lengthening your legs has more to do with the fit and length of your pants, and the style of your shoes. If your pants are bootcut, flared or wide (not skinny), and they skim the surface of the ground when you wear heels, you’ll achieve that long lean vertical line despite the colour of your shoes. And pointy toed peds will elongate this line even further .

By all means sport an alternative colour shoe to your legwear if you fancy that idea. You don’t need to have long slim gams to pull off the look if you adhere to other important leg-lengthening rules. Adding contrasting and eye-catching shoes to a classic ensemble is a perfect way to keep your look hip when current trends aren’t your cup of tea.

Having a sense of style is somehow a mixture of looking both timeless and “of-the-moment”. While choosing to remain classic is stylish, you’ll need to incorporate a certain level of “right-now” into your look to keep it current and fab. So what do you do when you don’t like, or can’t afford, the new trends?

Here’s how to keep it in vogue when you bypass trends:

• Stick to tailored items. The watershed changes in fashion silhouettes over the last year are not for everyone (or at least, not until our eyes have adapted to the changes). Ignore the voluminous look and stick to clothing that skims the contour of your body because chic tailoring is universally flattering and always fashionable.
• Integrate the new fashion colour. If you love cobalt blue, but can’t see yourself wearing trapeze jackets, sack dresses and swing tops, try it as an accessory or in a classic clothing piece instead. Camisoles, button down shirts, layering knit tops and costume jewelry are safe and inexpensive ways of packing the right amount of punch per season.
• Add the “it” style of jeans. This boils down to either skinnies, straight-leg cuts or wide-leg cuts this season. Choose what’s best for your body type and modify your look.
• Invest in a great pair of shoes. You’ll always make a stylish statement with a wonderful pair of peds. Dressing well is about getting the details right and this detail is particularly important.
• Buy the bag of the season. You won’t go wrong with patent and it won’t cost you an arm and a leg. You can get a perfectly great option for $50 at places like Aldo, Gap, Macy’s and the BP department at Nordstrom.
• Try a new hairstyle. Add an edge with a new cut or spot of colour.
• Change your specs. If you wear glasses, make sure that they are the best pair that you can afford. I can’t stress enough how important this is. The eye is drawn upwards when we speak and nothing is more effective than a pair of perfectly eye-catching specs. Leave the clothes and invest in the most important accessory that you own.
• Try a new shade of lipstick. If you normally go neutral, try a brick red, magenta or bronze instead.

Actress Jennifer Aniston epitomizes the stylish modern classic. While she’s probably never stuck for cash, she’s chosen to keep her look tailored, simple, current and neutral. She’ll update seasonally with the most current pair of jeans, white shirt, black pants, black shoes, new handbag, sunglasses and a variation on the hairstyle. She usually leaves it at that and always looks fab. Sometimes you won’t like the new trend, and sometimes it won’t like you. Either way, it’s possible to look hip by choosing the correct items in a given season.

Jewel toned sapphire patent tote, teal ballet flats and dark straight-leg jeans are an inexpensive and modern classic combo from the Gap that will have you looking hip straight way. These items are also offered in neutral shades if that’s your preference.

While it might seem odd to buy clothing to have altered, it’s a good idea. People who have perfectly fitting clothing do not necessarily have perfect bodies. They have competent tailors. I have most of my pants altered at the waist because it’s virtually impossible to get a waistband to fit when you have a slight sway back. Some alterations are absolutely worth the expense while others are not. Before you purchase a garment that doesn’t fit perfectly, be sure to weigh up the cost of the alteration against the price of the garment itself.

Of course, prices will vary. But here are ball park estimates for common alteration jobs based on my experience in the United States:

• Seam repair $3 – $5
• Hems on pants, skirts and sleeves $12 – $15
• Hems on jeans $15 – $20
• Hems on pants with cuffs $15 – $18
• Hems on dresses $15 – $18
• Waist on pants $15 – $25
• Waist on un-lined jackets, blouses, shirts and tops $12 – $30
• Zipper replacement $12 – $15
• General tapering of garments at the side seams and sleeves and dress-strap adjustments $10 – $18

Alterations get expensive when lining is involved. Any adjustments in the shoulder line and armhole are achievable, but will cost a pretty penny because they are labour intensive. In my experience, this type of alteration on a women’s garment is not worth the expense. If the item doesn’t fit you properly on your shoulder line – don’t buy it. Men’s suiting is the exception because it’s standard to have a men’s suit altered for free when you make the purchase. Note that American stores like Banana Republic, Nordstrom and J. Crew will offer to hem regular priced merchandise for free. Most stores in Hong Kong are happy to do any alteration for free.

It’s worth every penny if alterations are minor and affordable (like hem, sleeve and waist adjustments), because perfect fit is a crucial component of dressing well. When garments don’t fit perfectly straight off the rack, remember that it’s never our body type that’s the problem… it’s the clothing. Altering them is often the best way to go.

In your experience, how does pricing compare with my estimates above?

I have been preaching my perfect pants length mantra for as long as I can remember because it’s a fashion faux pas that I feel especially strongly about. While the default perfect pants length (when hems skim the surface of the ground) works beautifully for boot-cuts, flares and wide-legged pants and jeans; it won’t work for skinnies, tapered-legs and super straight-leg pants and jeans. Narrow pant-leg openings scrunch at the ankle and over your heels instead of skimming the surface of the ground no matter how long their in-seam. It’s therefore fab to wear these types of long pants ankle length. This is an acceptable and ultra fashion forward look. And thus far the only exception to my very rigid rule.

Skinnies and tapered pants are stylishly acceptable ankle length.

Oversized bags and totes are all the rage, but your body shouldn’t ache as a result. Fashion is for fun, not for pain. If you remember two simple things, you’ll sport a statement bag with style and comfort:

• Consider the weight of the bag itself. Large leather bags with loads of pocket and hardware detail can weigh a ton before you’ve even packed your essentials. Faux leather/patent, plastic, PVC, nylon, and canvas fabrications make for lighter and cheaper options. If you are going to go leather, keep design features simple as this tends to shed excess weight off any bulky bag. 
• Don’t pack the kitchen sink. Be ruthless with what you need daily and try and find ways to downsize everything. If the interior of your handbag is a mess, empty its contents and re-pack.

Don’t damage your posture and wreck your outfit by lugging around a heavy handbag. A roomy, light and uncluttered version is a more practical and healthy solution.

A large PVC tote and simple leather bags with no hardware or outside pocket detail.